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R-model door latch part numbers


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The old style left hand latch is 62QS325C right side is62QS324C.The 62QS424R is the new syle left side.You need the old style for your R Model.

Steve

Thanks. I thought that it was the "older" number. I just didn't know if it was "old" enough!

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Well, it gets weirder and weirder! I just spoke with a regional Mack parts guy who seemed to know what I was talking about. He also had a 62QS424 on-hand. He says the best way to tell the difference is by the rotating part of the latch which engages the striker. Acording to him, the 62QS325 will have a "gear" on the end of the shaft, while the 62QS424 will have a "Y" on it.

Well, mine has a "Y" shaped gizmo on it, the two prongs corresponding to the two "latchings" the door does when closing. That is, the first is the "safety" latch, and the second is the "full" latched.

I think I'll go down there tomorrow and see what it looks like.

More to come...

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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The old style left hand latch is 62QS325C right side is62QS324C.The 62QS424R is the new syle left side.You need the old style for your R Model.

Steve

Where is the break? Is it flat back vs. Plus 3? Didn't realize there was a difference.

Jim

Well, it gets weirder and weirder! I just spoke with a regional Mack parts guy who seemed to know what I was talking about. He also had a 62QS424 on-hand. He says the best way to tell the difference is by the rotating part of the latch which engages the striker. Acording to him, the 62QS325 will have a "gear" on the end of the shaft, while the 62QS424 will have a "Y" on it.

Well, mine has a "Y" shaped gizmo on it, the two prongs corresponding to the two "latchings" the door does when closing. That is, the first is the "safety" latch, and the second is the "full" latched.

I think I'll go down there tomorrow and see what it looks like.

More to come...

Okay...

I finally found a picture of a 62QS424. That is NOT what I have! So, I think you were correct on the 62QS325. But, I can't find a picture of one of those anywhere.

I can see, however, how someone might think the "bunny ears" on the 325 might look like a "gear". But, when I think "gear", I think more than 2 teeth! I guess that's why you should always look before you buy. My parts guy saw those 2 teeth, and thought it was a gear. When he told me the 424 looked like a "Y", I thought about the 2 teeth on mine. But, it turns out that the 424 has a "yoke" sticking out the front of it. probably latches on a "bolt". My unit latches in a "C-shaped" cutout in the striker.

So, again, I think you are correct on the 325. So glad it costs more! Yah!

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Where is the break? Is it flat back vs. Plus 3? Didn't realize there was a difference.

Jim

Well...

I have found out that the latch changed at a later date than the "+3" or "+4" cab change...which was '73 or so. It appears that the later latch showed up around '83-84 but, as usual, may not have been a "clean" break.

I also figured out that it is quite easy to tell the difference in the latches just by looking at them. I will post some pics later of the "old" style, which might help somebody out.

The doors which use the later latch reportedly have minor differences in the lock/latch locations as well. This corresponds to rumors I heard some time back when somebody was looking for a door shell, and was warned by the brain trust that there WERE, indeed, two different R-model doors.

I had a similar experience some time back, when I thought I had found a newer cab to put on mine. It was a super nice RD cab, with all the deluxe interior trim, in great shape, and for a really good price. But, it had the wrong hood interface shape. It was for a later RD which used a flat-sided hood, NOT an earlier one which used a slope-sided R-model hood. The guy who had it insisted that there was "only one" R-model cab. When I offered to show him the difference, he was not interested in seeing it. I figure, if you're gonna sell stuff, you should know these things! Whatever...

I did take my door latch out this weekend, and did a little...uhhh...patching on it! Where pieces were staked together from the factory, and had loosened, I applied the "7018" solution to them! By welding together some of the looser parts, I was able to get the latch tightened-up enough that the door will now close and latch fairly tightly without having to slam the silly thing.

While I was in there, I was pleased to find that the door itself on that side is very solid. Everything in there, however, is shot! The passenger-side door is much worse.

Anyway...I'll keep patching on this old stuff, and collecting parts for later use. Maybe I'll eventually find myself a good cab I can restore and put on here.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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  • 6 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread but it fits my problem. I went to replace the door locks on the 79 RD I just bought and the passenger’s side door key cylinder does not line up with the latch lock, which explains why it was broke. I guessing somewhere down the line something got switched out.

So if I understand all this, there were only two options for the door latch? My door latch is positioned to high inside the door for the key cylinder shaft to fit into its location on the door latch lock. Thanks!

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Talked with my local Mack today, guy in the body shop, he said what has happened with mine is the door shell has been replaced and there was no way of making the lock work without changing the door shell back to old style. So yes there are two Mack R doors. Guess I'll pass on this repair for now.

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From what I understand the door shell is the same dimensions and fit either cab, it is they relocated the lock hole to match the new style lock and latch setup. I was looking at aftermarket doors a while back and ran across this info.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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From what I understand the door shell is the same dimensions and fit either cab, it is they relocated the lock hole to match the new style lock and latch setup. I was looking at aftermarket doors a while back and ran across this info.

That's pretty much what I gathered too. My door works fine, seals up good etc, I just cant lock it. I'll have too see why it's not locking from the inside. You would think you could swap out the latch on the door and cab to make it work, but the guy I talked to said he didn't think the bolt holes would line up. Got to love these little suprises, it wreaks havoc on my OCD....lol I think this old girl will break that spell though....

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The old latches, like mine, had the key cylinder below the handle on the door. I BELIEVE the newer ones had the key IN the button.

Don't anybody hit me if that's wrong! I just read it in a book somewhere. I remember it; it was green!

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Here's the difference, the first pic is of my 1979 "old door" and the second is of the "newer" R model door. The only difference is they moved the key cylinder lock hole down about 3/4 of an inch to accomidate the new latch system. Just enough where the old latch will not line up with the key cylinder in the new door. I guess the easiest fix would be to move the clylinder back up when I get around to body work and paint.

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post-5458-0-65066100-1397487814_thumb.jp

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Actually if you can get the lock cylinder out you could get them keyed a like. Just did that a month or so ago for my R, the lock cylinders were mismatched and I had two keys

Robert, you can order complete new set just about as cheap. It includes 2 door lock tumblers and 1 ignition tumbler along with 2 matching keys. I ordered mine from Watts online store http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_76&product_id=148 along with two new Door lock retainer clips. The problem is the old style latch system will fit in the new style door and work except the lock tumbler for the door lock will not line up or work with the latch. T

This only becomes a problem when a newer door has been installed on an older truck and the old latch was reused. Everything else lines up great and works just fine!

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I paid $10 to rekey one of the locks for the R, I had bought a set of the door locks off ebay for my B paid $25 with free shipping, the B was missing the locks on both sides. From what I could tell it is the same set up as what is on the R

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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Here's the difference, the first pic is of my 1979 "old door" and the second is of the "newer" R model door. The only difference is they moved the key cylinder lock hole down about 3/4 of an inch to accomidate the new latch system. Just enough where the old latch will not line up with the key cylinder in the new door. I guess the easiest fix would be to move the clylinder back up when I get around to body work and paint.

That's about the most helpful thing anybody ever did!

Thanks for the pic.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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  • 3 weeks later...

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