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ThaddeusW

Started On The 673

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Ok I got the engine and trans out of the van. Now I started to strip the engine down a little and was busy removing the luberfiner and the generator. Now how the heck does the generator come off? I see three bolts one on top to adjust the belt tension and two on the bottom like a hinge. All the nuts came off the two bottom bolts but the bolts wont come out. I even put the nut on the end and gave it a few sharp blows with a drilling hammer but they wont budge.

Next up is the fuel system. I want to remove the injectors and the heads eventually but the fuel lines are rusty and look brittle. How do you go about replacing them? A friend of mine also said that back in the day the injection lines had to be of equal length, I don't see how that would affect timing but I would like to know for sure.

I see that the tach cable comes out from the shaft that runs to the compressor is there an electronic conversion kit for that?

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Ok the two bolts under the generator will not come out. Ill try a torch and more PB.

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Broken by the seller with his loader, thankfully that part unbolts.

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Left side minus the air compressor. It was a Bendix Westinghouse tu-flo 500.

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Ha, found out my Gali air starter fits not sure of the pinion though. I bought three for 60 bucks on eBay.

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Unfortunately allot of crud and dirt came out of the bell housing when I pulled the starter.

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Thad, try putting a socket and breaker bar on those bottom generator bolts and get them turning while repeatedly soaking them with PB.

Once you get them turning freely then try driving them out with a hammer and punch.

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Your friend is right. The fuel lines are Mack parts there is a certain one for each injector from the pump.I think they are avaible from Mack as they should be the same lines that are on the 675 327 HP. engine.If they are old it is only a matter of time before they crack and leak fuel all over.

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If that engine came with out the air comp. try to remember to install mthe oil tube in the end of the drive shaft fore the comp. or it will not last very long. glenn

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If that engine came with out the air comp. try to remember to install mthe oil tube in the end of the drive shaft fore the comp. or it will not last very long. glenn

Oh no I have the compressor. I am just stripping the engine down a little. I am suprised to find bendix still makes the tu-flo 500 and parts which is good because the unloader looks like its all frozen up.

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I got the turbo off today. It wasn't easy had to heat the nuts with a torch and by using a chisel and drilling hammer expanded the nuts till they freely turned. Its frozen solid but Ill pull it apart and try to get it to spin. I ran water through the turbo cooling ports and no crud came out.

Still haven't pulled the oil pan but I did peek under the rear valve cover and all looked good, no rust or crud. Fuel return line is cracked and the primer pump is a hunk of frozen rusted metal. The fuel filter is rusty but was full of old diesel.

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Your friend is right. The fuel lines are Mack parts there is a certain one for each injector from the pump.I think they are avaible from Mack as they should be the same lines that are on the 675 327 HP. engine.If they are old it is only a matter of time before they crack and leak fuel all over.

:mack1: The 237/285 horse injector lines will not go on the older style engine, the injector ends are different size. terry

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Thad you can still get the lines from mack. I just bought new injectors and lines a few months backfor my 285.

like said above some injectors used diffrent styles of feed and return methods so check befor you buy. But I do think that the injector line routings from ENDT673 / 237s /285s etc... are all the same. havent looked real close but they look all the same?????

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The bolts will come out of alt. bracket. I'll look, but if you bust it up getting it apart I have a couple gens and brackets laying around.

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