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Antifreeze In The Oil


jake

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My 1964 B61 is getting antifreeze in the oil. It has a 711 with the large head bolts in the corners of the heads. The engine runs great and when it sets for a spell I drain it off at the oil plug before I start it. After it sat all winter I drained off about 1/2 pint. My question is what can I expect to find if I tear it down? I have heard that 711's where notorious for this problem. Was it usally head gaskets or cracked heads or block? How much in the oil will hurt the lower end? Should I keep running it like this? It is only a hobby truck and not a working truck. I want to keep it original so changing engines is the last option. I appriciate any suggestions. Thanks. Jakebrake

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Left alone, any amount of antifreeze is not good. It can have the same effect as sugar. If I had to deal with this problem, I would bring the engine up to operating temp. then without wasting any time, drop the oil pan, and pressurize the cooling system. If you can"t see a leak, you will have eliminated the "does it while running". If you don't see something obvious, go do something else. Let it cool off over night, then check it again. If you don't see a drip, bar the engine all the way through, and recheck. More than once, while rolling in a set of bearings, I have had antifreeze drip right in my eye. In retrospect, it was always with the engine cold. I have found pinholes in cylinders,and most recently a bad liner seal on my friends CH. You need to be methodical about troubleshooting. Just as an illustration, it would be just about impossible to find a liner leaking if you had already snatched the cylinder head off to look at the head gasket. There is a lot of personal satisfaction in finding and repairing a problem yourself. I hope you have a good time working on your truck. James

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My 1964 B61 is getting antifreeze in the oil. It has a 711 with the large head bolts in the corners of the heads. The engine runs great and when it sets for a spell I drain it off at the oil plug before I start it. After it sat all winter I drained off about 1/2 pint. My question is what can I expect to find if I tear it down? I have heard that 711's where notorious for this problem. Was it usally head gaskets or cracked heads or block? How much in the oil will hurt the lower end? Should I keep running it like this? It is only a hobby truck and not a working truck. I want to keep it original so changing engines is the last option. I appriciate any suggestions. Thanks. Jakebrake

The 711's with the large studs at the corners were notorious for having head gasket problems, so I'm betting that's where the trouble is.

These engines did not have the "fire rings" to seal the top of the liners to the head, therefore the head gaskets had to hold compression and combustion pressure as well as seal the water and oil passages between the heads and block.

Chances are that the heads haven't been retorqued in years (maybe decades), and the head gaskets themselves can deteriorate over time also.

Add to that the chance that the deck (top of the block) and the bottom of the heads may no longer be perfectly flat or smooth and theres a good possibility of seepage.

Yank the heads, check for cracks in the block & heads while it's apart, and put a new set of head gaskets in it

Follow the proper head bolt torquing procedure, and re torque after you run it for a day or two.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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The 711's with the large studs at the corners were notorious for having head gasket problems, so I'm betting that's where the trouble is.

These engines did not have the "fire rings" to seal the top of the liners to the head, therefore the head gaskets had to hold compression and combustion pressure as well as seal the water and oil passages between the heads and block.

Chances are that the heads haven't been retorqued in years (maybe decades), and the head gaskets themselves can deteriorate over time also.

Add to that the chance that the deck (top of the block) and the bottom of the heads may no longer be perfectly flat or smooth and theres a good possibility of seepage.

Yank the heads, check for cracks in the block & heads while it's apart, and put a new set of head gaskets in it

Follow the proper head bolt torquing procedure, and re torque after you run it for a day or two.

I would still pull the pan before the heads and preasurize!

Also just because its a dri liner dosent stop cavitation the block it self can still cavitate And leak between the liner and the block seen it happen!

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I wasnt arguing that with you, i know cavitation can be a problem. I just wasnt sure if it was dry liner or not. That takes the liner seal out of the question. You could presureize the cylendar couldnt you? And the check if your pushing coolant out. Just make sure the piston your checking is at bottom. But being that its a 711 i would guess the that headgasket is the problem.

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I wasnt arguing that with you, i know cavitation can be a problem. I just wasnt sure if it was dry liner or not. That takes the liner seal out of the question. You could presureize the cylendar couldnt you? And the check if your pushing coolant out. Just make sure the piston your checking is at bottom. But being that its a 711 i would guess the that headgasket is the problem.

Dont even drain the coolant untill you have pulled the pan and found the leak but some times you cant find it then with many hourn of checking then you can tar into it and start hopeing or guessing but as old as that engine is it could have a cavitated block behind a sleeve and may be hard to find but I have been in them for a simple inframe and have antifrezze drope on me from between the block and sleeve and then put sleeve and find a pin hole in block which then have a sleeve put in it to bring back to standard but have aways found the holes at the bootom of the water.Could be a oil cooler but should have oil in coolant. can be a injector sleeve leaking at the bottom into the clyinder when shut down but then you should have compression in radiator.glenn

glenn akers

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I wasnt arguing that with you, i know cavitation can be a problem. I just wasnt sure if it was dry liner or not. That takes the liner seal out of the question. You could presureize the cylendar couldnt you? And the check if your pushing coolant out. Just make sure the piston your checking is at bottom. But being that its a 711 i would guess the that headgasket is the problem.

I'm not arguing at all ,just simply stating what can and has happened!IT takes and hour to pull the pan! and find out for sure, guessing at it can cost money!A pan gasket is cheap peace of mind at least youll no where your heading!If the block is cavitated you can cheat (This Is A PATCH) by up rooting the liner clean the bottom of the bore and the liner and apply red loctight around the bottom 1/2 inch of the bore and slide the liner back in!The correct thing to do is bore and sleeve!Depends on what you want in the end!

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