broken head bolt, cummmins

[b61fred]

Hi,

I have a 855 cummins for my superliner, While pressure washing and cleaning I found it to have a broken head bolt, I used a punch and spun out the rest of the bolt. Is this common? Would the headgasket have a chance of being ok?

Morgan

[theakerstwo]

Replace the bolt and then get it it hot and do the water bottle test for compression in the coolant. That will tell you somthing.If you have been hearing a chirping sound when you mash on it then pull the head. glenn

[b61fred]

Thanks,

This is a motor that I will be installing into the truck, I haven't heard it run yet. The good news it is the front head so going back in for repair might not be as bad as say the rear head. This engine also has no cpl tag, I have the block number will that get me the information on the engine? 11136723 who do I talk to to get the info?

Morgan

[fifth wheel]

Any Cummins dealer should be able to get the engine data from the stamped serial number, they have a website but you need a pasword to get in. A&R Diesel very helpfull.

FW

[bobcotkg]

I've pulled the rear head on my W900A and its no big deal, and I think the Superliner would have more room. Hopefully you don't have to pull any but...

Whats the Water bottle test? I have never heard of that

[theakerstwo]

PRINT ENGINE DATAPLATE

BASE ENGINE INFORMATION

Upfit

Original

Engine Serial Number

11136723

Vehicle ID Number

Shop Order #

SO14578

Plant

CEP - Columbus Engine Plant

Build Date

17 Nov 1983

Warranty Start Date

15 Mar 1984

Customer Number

Customer Name

01442

ECM Code

Not Available For This Engine

Fuel Pump Part #

3043282

Fuel Pump Calibration

3910

Film Card

APL

Engine Config #

D093413BX02

CPL #

CPL530

EPA Model Name

Marketing Model Name

NTC350BC

Service Model Name

NT

[Bollweevil]

You might get real lucky and not need a head gasket. Pigs and cows might start flying just any time now also. If the engine is still on the ground put a head gasket on it. It is a lot easier when you can walk around it, with enough room for a torque wrench to swing. Now is also the time to take a look at the rods and mains. I have owned and run several of these little engines and while I have known of some running over 1,000,000 miles, the reality is that during this time frame 450.000 to 600,000 was considered a good service life. Everyone I knew always rolled in a set of rods and mains before 350,000. I am not trying to throw cold water on you. Doing this now, when you don't HAVE to is a lot easier than doing it in the frame when it won't run unless you do.

[randyp]

I most multiply concur with the Georgia weevil, it would be a walk in the park while out of the truck,,,randyp

[b61fred]

Ok, where is a good place to get parts for these engines, Parts are high these days and funds are low. I hate to spend too much for a truck thats more or less not going to "earn its keep". I have seen the after market stuff is cheaper but I know the quality might not be there. Thanks for the information on the engine, but I also gave you the incorrect number(yes I am a dumb ass) I will get the correct number. I called cummins on the phone and also two autorized dealers and they really didn't want to give me any info other than it was a ntc400. no CPL or anything else, they said it couldn't be done.

Morgan

[Freightrain]

Morgan, I got really, really lucky with my 673 a few years ago when I popped a stud in the back left. I drove it 140 miles home, just started to burp antifreeze on the windsheild when I got home. I was able to unscrew stud and install new one and torque it down. Been two years and still okay.

Heard plenty of stories of this stuff happening and guys fixing on the side of the road and no problem. In this instance, I'd almost go ahead and put a gasket on it. Like mentioned, it's A LOT easier while sitting on the ground in front of you then IN a truck.

[b61fred]

Ok I have the CORRECT block number for my engine 11139721, This engine and the other must be built almost at the same time with block numbers so close. I will change the head gaskets, and I might as well grind the valves and check the rods and mains. so much for a quick and cheap install. I will know what I have and hopefully I won't have to go back in to the engine for a while. Do I need to document my engine pull and work with pictures and up dates with it's own thread or do you guys seen all this stuff and is all "old hat"? Thanks

Morgan

[theakerstwo]

This is all i can finbd on cummins quick ser.

PRINT ENGINE DATAPLATE

BASE ENGINE INFORMATION Engine Serial Number 11139721 Service Model Name NT

[GreenGiant2]

i called cummins north east with my block # and within a day or two i was able to get complete run down on engine. do you have a tag on fuel pump.. did this for 2 big cams.

gg2

[BOB DINGSDALE]

We had a lot of problems with broken studs in off hyway log trucks pulling max torque allday.Most of the time we had to pull head to get broken piece out.it would be how long it had been broken and how many hrs was put on it in broken condition.can you tell if there any loose wear on hard washer.getting broken piece out with out any trouble tells me it wasn't broken long enough to warrent head gasket trouble. Bob D

[b61fred]

OK, got some time tonight to tear into this engine, as I removed the heads I found 2 more head bolts broken, one was broken down below the deck so I would have never got it removed without removing the head, I think the old engine looks good and clean inside. I have some photos with captions in my gallery labeled 81 superliner.

Morgan

[Bollweevil]

With that many bolts broken, you should probably take the fuel pump to a pump shop to have the calibration checked. When you jack the fuel pressure up on a Cummins it is also necessary to go with an injector with increased flow. Otherwise it will dramatically increase the pressure on the injector, push tube, and cam follower, and increases the likely hood of a failure of either one of the above. Take the push tubes one at a time, and after inspecting the ball ends, drop them from about waist level so that they will land flat, on the concrete floor. If you hear a musical ding a ling, they are good. If you hear a thunk it is oil filled and no good. It WILL hydraulic and blow the ball end out, possibly with catastrophic results.

[b61fred]

Bollweeviel, I think I have found the issue with the head bolts. All the bolts were on the outside of the rocker boxes. The ones that were broken were corroded. The rust would expand and put pressure on the bolt with the pitting of the bolt and heating and cooling. I talked to a friend of mine that is a Cummins mechanic at Indianapolis cummins branch, he said it is quite common in our part of the country but unheard of in other parts of the country. He also did his magic and got my cpl number and the correct number for the fuel pump and injectors. The pistons look very good, you can easily read the part numbers on the top and the sleeve part numbers. I am planning on dropping the pan and checking the bearings. I like your tip on the push tubes. Those injector tube sure do take a beating If your pump is turned up and the injectors don't flow enough fuel it can really add up to some serious pressure on the valve train. This engine has been left stock so I dodged and bullet there, I contacted the owners that ran the truck and pulled the engine. He said that the engine was majored no too long before the truck was rolled over and totaled. Did you look at all the pictures of the engine in my gallery? I posted a link to it in my last message. I thought It looked fairly clean, I think the guys I talked to were shooting straight when they talked to me. Thanks for your input!!!! If you know of anyone that has a cummins powered superliner thats junked I am looking for a front engine crossmember. THANKS

Morgan

[Bollweevil]

I did look at them, and no heat ckecking, you can also do a quick valve to seat check by laying the heads alternately on each side and filling the ports with diesel fuel. These are still good little engines and easy to work on.