B53 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Hello all,I posted this in the engine forum but haven't gotten any responses. Thought I might get some ideas here.I have a '64 B53 with 673 engine. When running, it leaks oil from around where the injector pump mounts. So I decided I'd take it off, clean it up, and check the gasket.So, I got all the lines/hoses etc. disconnected, and took out the 3 bolts that hold the pump to an intermediate base/adapter piece, between the pump and the engine's front housing. Pump pulls out about half an inch, but no more. Next, I took out the three bolts that hold on the intermediate piece, and that pulls out about a quarter inch, but no more.How does this pump come out?!Its an American Bosch pump, the kind with the 6 injector lines arranged in a circle, like a distributor cap.Any ideas?Thanks!Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Hello all,I posted this in the engine forum but haven't gotten any responses. Thought I might get some ideas here.I have a '64 B53 with 673 engine. When running, it leaks oil from around where the injector pump mounts. So I decided I'd take it off, clean it up, and check the gasket.So, I got all the lines/hoses etc. disconnected, and took out the 3 bolts that hold the pump to an intermediate base/adapter piece, between the pump and the engine's front housing. Pump pulls out about half an inch, but no more. Next, I took out the three bolts that hold on the intermediate piece, and that pulls out about a quarter inch, but no more.How does this pump come out?!Its an American Bosch pump, the kind with the 6 injector lines arranged in a circle, like a distributor cap.Any ideas?Thanks!KevinI'm not familiar with the rotary pump you have. The inline pumps are keyed to a gear and pull straight back and out after the three bolts are removed from the adapater housing to the engine front cover. There is also a brace on the bottom supporting the pump at the rear. Have you removed that also?Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Blaylock Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Did you remove the right front fender doing so makes this job a lot easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 You have to pull the front timing cover off of the front cover and you can see what holds it in there. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fifth wheel Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Yes behind the front timing cover there are three bolts that hold the gear to the to the pump shaft hub, you have to remove the bolts to remove the pump. Doing this you will lose your timing.FW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strollinruss Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Shouldn't lose timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fifth wheel Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Why won't you lose the timing?FW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B53 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Thanks for the replies everyone!I got the pump off. Its the PSM style. I cleaned it up nice and am ready to re-install with some Permatex between mating surfaces to prevent leaks in the future. I read and understand the pump timing instructions in the service manual. One question...where are the timing marks to determine crank position? Also, how do I know when #1 piston is on compression? Watch the valves as I rotate the crank?Thanks again,Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 You should have checked that before you pulled it. Now you want to pull the rear valve cover and rotate engine untill the exhuat valve closes and the intake just starts to open. This is what you hear them talking about valve over lap. This means # 1 cyl is up and read to fire, so back up maybe 14 turn and start turn in clock wise rotation looking at the front untill the pointer sets at about 26 or 28 degress or what ever you shop manaul is telling you.The timing marks will be on the bottom of the fylwheel veiwed thru a opening in the bottom of the fylwheel housing.Now if you do have a shop manual then it should show you were the timing mark is on the fuel pump and now install and then back up after bolts in front gear is tighte and go in engine ritation slow till the marks line up and they show be were you want them. If you shop manual does not show that throw it away and then i will try some more instructions. glenn Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Oh i forgot to tell you you always spot the timing before you pull the pump that way you dont have to waiy and ask some one. Your not the first one. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOB DINGSDALE Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 before you put pump back on whats the gasket like on lifter cover .I have 673 in our b model and thats the gasket thats leaking so will attend to it this spring.Bob D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B53 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Live and learn I guess. Yes, I should have made a couple marks before I pulled the pump. But, who's to say it was timed correctly before? Although it ran ok. The manual I have shows how to align the pump timing marks so I'm good there. I'll have to get under it and pull the flywheel inspection cover and look for the timing marks. So #1 cylinder is the rearmost?Thanks guys!Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Live and learn I guess. Yes, I should have made a couple marks before I pulled the pump. But, who's to say it was timed correctly before? Although it ran ok. The manual I have shows how to align the pump timing marks so I'm good there. I'll have to get under it and pull the flywheel inspection cover and look for the timing marks. So #1 cylinder is the rearmost?Thanks guys!Kevin No i did not say the rear was # 1. Reread my post. Also the cover on the bottom does not show the timing marks. The timing marks do not have a cover.There is small opening with a small pin sticking out or a tab if its not knocked off. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 #6 valve over lap is spotting # 1 cylinder to fire or to time or to bolt pump on. # 1 cyl is the front cylinder. The rear would be 6. glenn Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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