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B53

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Everything posted by B53

  1. Looking to sell my '64 B53. Had it a few years now and just haven't done much with it. Time to find it a loving home. Has END673 engine, air start, 17k front axle with power steering, quadruplex transmission. In mechanically good shape, starts and runs great, clutch is good, shifts well. Needs brakes. Body needs work but isn't terrible. I do have the fenders, took them off to start working on it. Fairly complete truck. Hate to part with it, but I just have too many projects and never seem to have the time or money to devote to it. Used to be a mixer. Located in upstate NY. I have $4800 into it...make me an offer. Also consider trades for an older pickup, car, or boat. PM on here, or email sales@sennett-tool.com Kevin
  2. Should also add though, it's not camelback, but walking beam. Which leads to a quick question...my rears are only rated for 34 or 36k. Why walking beam? I thought that was typically only used on very heavy applications. Kevin
  3. My '64 B53 has the one-piece welded pedestal, as mentioned in (3). Actually, the mounting area of the pedestal has 5 holes in each mounting location, but they only drilled 4 holes in the frame.
  4. I assume the pistons would be a little shorter for less compression? Or to help with detonation? What about rods and crank? Bigger?
  5. Just another quick question- What are the differences between the turbo and non versions of the END673C? Aside from the turbo, obviously. Manifolds? Internals? Injector pump? Thanks! Kevin
  6. Hey guys- Dumb novice question. How do I get the inside door panels off my B? Seems like the window tracks and everything are welded to the inside of the panel. Kevin
  7. Hell yeah buddy. Just saw them in Buffalo a few weeks ago. Clarence's nephew Jake played sax and did a damn good job.
  8. Got it running today. Had to use that mysterious "other" timing mark near the front of the pump. Kevin
  9. Anyone have ideas? I'm at a loss here. My next trick is to just start moving the timing 5 degrees at a time till I get something... Kevin
  10. The timing mark on the pump is on when the flywheel is at 28deg BTC. I watched for the valve overlap as stated, and timed it there. When it wouldn't start, just for giggles, I tried it the other way as well- as in turned the crank one rev and back to the timing marks. It smokes and kinda fires the first way, nothing the second way. So I'm pretty sure it's timed to #1 cylinder. Is it possible that the flywheel timing marks are off? Kevin
  11. Hi Guys, I pulled my injector pump to fix some oil leaks, and after reinstalling it I can't get the engine started. I re-timed and primed the system per the book. Even tried the timing both ways- to both Nos. 1 & 6 cylinders just to make sure I had it timed correctly. I cracked the high pressure lines at the injectors and cranked a bit to bleed whatever air was in the lines- I do have fuel to the injectors. She fires sometimes when cranking, but never actually starts. Smokes like hell though. Whats wrong? This a 673C engine with PSM (rotary) style pump. Thanks, Kevin
  12. Live and learn I guess. Yes, I should have made a couple marks before I pulled the pump. But, who's to say it was timed correctly before? Although it ran ok. The manual I have shows how to align the pump timing marks so I'm good there. I'll have to get under it and pull the flywheel inspection cover and look for the timing marks. So #1 cylinder is the rearmost? Thanks guys! Kevin
  13. Thanks for the replies everyone! I got the pump off. Its the PSM style. I cleaned it up nice and am ready to re-install with some Permatex between mating surfaces to prevent leaks in the future. I read and understand the pump timing instructions in the service manual. One question...where are the timing marks to determine crank position? Also, how do I know when #1 piston is on compression? Watch the valves as I rotate the crank? Thanks again, Kevin
  14. Hello all, I posted this in the engine forum but haven't gotten any responses. Thought I might get some ideas here. I have a '64 B53 with 673 engine. When running, it leaks oil from around where the injector pump mounts. So I decided I'd take it off, clean it up, and check the gasket. So, I got all the lines/hoses etc. disconnected, and took out the 3 bolts that hold the pump to an intermediate base/adapter piece, between the pump and the engine's front housing. Pump pulls out about half an inch, but no more. Next, I took out the three bolts that hold on the intermediate piece, and that pulls out about a quarter inch, but no more. How does this pump come out?! Its an American Bosch pump, the kind with the 6 injector lines arranged in a circle, like a distributor cap. Any ideas? Thanks! Kevin
  15. Hello all, I have a '64 B53 with 673 engine. When running, it leaks oil from around where the injector pump mounts. So I decided I'd take it off, clean it up, and check the gasket. So, I got all the lines/hoses etc. disconnected, and took out the 3 bolts that hold the pump to an intermediate base/adapter piece, between the pump and the engine's front housing. Pump pulls out about half an inch, but no more. Next, I took out the three bolts that hold on the intermediate piece, and that pulls out about a quarter inch, but no more. How does this pump come out?! Its an American Bosch pump, the kind with the 6 injector lines arranged in a circle, like a distributor cap. Any ideas? Thanks! Kevin
  16. Good morning all, Been working on my '64 B53. Got the oil pressure gauge working. Shows 50psi no matter what RPM. Is this normal? Got my air starter pulled off and cleaned all the gunk out of it- lubed and reinstalled, and works MUCH better. On to the next challenge: Now that it starts easy, I need to be able to shut it off. Easily. The shut-off cable needs some adjustment, and of course this adjustment is between the injector pump and the block. Pretty much impossible to get at. Anybody got an easy way? Plan B is to just pull the pump and clean it up. It leaks oil around where the pump bolts to the drive housing anyhow. If I pull the pump, how hard is to reinstall? I.E. bleeding the pump and injectors, etc. Any help is appreciated! Thanks, Kevin
  17. Yeah maybe I'll try pulling the starter apart when I have time. The previous owner pulled the mixer and scrapped it. The drum was pretty rotten. Thanks, Kevin
  18. Thanks for all the kind words! And Callahan concrete was a big outfit here for many years. In regards to the air starter, a full tank of air, approx 50gallons at 120 psi, will turn the engine over for only 2-3 seconds. Is that normal?
  19. As promised, here's a few pics. The first one in the weeds with the mixer still on, and the second two tucked away in the corner of the parking lot at her new home.
  20. Thanks for the answers guys. I found the end of the oil pressure tube, and it was indeed kinked and pinched off.
  21. Hello all, I just acquired my first Mack a few weeks ago. Its a 1964 B53, formerly a mixer. Over all in pretty restorable shape, but has a fair bit of rust, having spent its life in upstate NY. On to the questions. Its an air start, which seems like quite a hassle. Will a new 12v. starter bolt on in its place, and where can I find one? Next, while it starts and runs well, the oil pressure gauge doesn't come up. I assume its a mechanical gauge? Where does the line connect to the block? I assume this is the END-673. Pics to come soon! Thanks! Kevin
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