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Adding a Jake Brake to an E-tech?


gumbiegumbie

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8 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

once again never too old to learn new. have installed jakes; even trip to factory here in CT yrs ago when they were made here. question JOJO ; the braided line, is that how units are oil fed today;; no more o-ring fitting coming from underside?

Did you read that service bulletin? Pretty cool huh?

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the "Top oil feed" update came in around 2001 or so..  It was for the 690 Jacobs heads.. the heads were dissasembled, then a drilling 'jig' was placed on top left of the middle if i rember correctly,.  you were to drill into the jake head about a 1/4" into the oil gallery, but not through it.  you know...  then tap threads in it to accept a 90 degree #4 JIC fitting.  the jake spacers were replacedwith spacers that had #4 JIC bulk head connectors built in..  the jake heads were the flushed out ot get the filings out, and new reset screws were installed,  you also flipped it over and 'picked out ' 5 pieces from the oiler port in the bottom of the head.  it was a retainer, spring, BB, oring, and something else i forgot..  then the little allen headed delivery valve in the rocker shaft was replaced with a 10mm hex head check valve..  i think we also replace the pistons and springs and washers and snaprings  int the jake heads..  we aslo replaced the reset screws in the exhaust rockers with a kit called. 215SB321 with the new armolly screws..  I forget the measurement,  anyway, one issue there was that the reset pins would mash into the reset screw which I beleive caused the engine brake to not open the exhaust valve enough to funtion right..  the oil lines we speak of, were SS braide lines. at the oil filter pad we added a fitting to the turbo oil feed port, and ran lines up to the jake spacers to supply higher oil pressure to the jake heads...  it worked, but was still not that good...  it only got better, when Mack went back to making their own engine brake, and so the "Powerleash" was born   .. jojo

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My post is only based off of my memory of when I did these updates many years ago,, there is a chance I left something out.  I did not re-read the bulliten before posting...  Jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
Poor spelling
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dang-it...   i forgot,,, Engine brake lash was originally .015",,, then they went to .017",,,, and after the reset screw update along with the other stuff, lash was set at .021", we also stamped the data plate on the jake head with a 'B' or a 'C'  after each update, and the plate on the front valve cover was stamped wit the 'new' eng. brk lash as well..  dammit,,, its flowing back into my head..  :)  jojo

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just signed out and saw your post;; had to sign back in to thank you for update. now i can sleep tonight ;LOL. couldn't remember how the jake got oil supply. forgot the o-ring fitting went top of rocker  assembly. back in the day joke was "made in japan"-junk.. after day of class at jacobs engine brake  and seeing how the Japanese new owners    saved the jake operation i was impressed.  old way was spend day making hundreds of units. then check them. one bad they were all bad and thrown out. new owners had random pulls from assembly line. bad one found stop the line and make corrections. 

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can remember when mack came out with the dynatard; what a joke / pain in ass. changed more exhaust push rods then i want to count. mack started out using both original  in/ ex push rods. the pressure on exhaust rods so bad it was bending them. mack went to solid  exhaust rods  finally. 

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I have an E-6 2 valve in my shop as well, an ENDT673..  I need to get back on it, after i finish the 2 other engines I have on stands.  what should I look for in the push rods?  they are all the same,  the rod is narrower than the ball and seat ends..  jojo

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3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I guess I was in the moment..  sorry about the lengthy posts,, I just couldnt stop typing...  :)  jojo

worked for me. wife ranting on about    me on here; so i read your post REAL slow. LOL. besides i found it very interesting . how some updates are done  has been know to be challenging. 

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2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I have an E-6 2 valve in my shop as well, an ENDT673..  I need to get back on it, after i finish the 2 other engines I have on stands.  what should I look for in the push rods?  they are all the same,  the rod is narrower than the ball and seat ends..  jojo

by now everything has been changed. the intake are regular hollow tubes , exhaust push rods are 3 times heavier  due to they are "solid" rods made to take pressure. there is the possibility with all the new computerize technology  they don't use heavier rods. my statements are based on when fred flintstone built things and i worked for him;;😁

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8 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I have an E-6 2 valve in my shop as well, an ENDT673..  I need to get back on it, after i finish the 2 other engines I have on stands.  what should I look for in the push rods?  they are all the same,  the rod is narrower than the ball and seat ends..  jojo

I'm just popping in to this thread, haven't been following. Sometimes the spot welds fail on these pushrods and the end inserts (ball and cup ends) are loose. I've seen a couple that way on our endt676 engines.

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On 4/4/2022 at 10:27 PM, Onyx610 said:

When you say “air to air” is that just the CAC? If so you have only checked half of the charge air system. Turbo could be getting worn, boost leaks at turbo/before CAC, or boost leaks after CAC/at intake manifold. 

checked all that seams ok

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