Rob

I'm trying to get the tie rods busted loose on my 64 B-61 and not having good success. I've almost beat the "impact spot" flat with an eight pound sledge trying to pop them loose. The axle is an FA-522 with female rod ends that are shot. I'm planning to get them out and go to male threaded ends and probably make the cross tube. What do you guys do to overcome this dilemma? I've not used heat, (yet) but I'm about to. It's hard enough to even get under the truck, (given my large size frame) let alone work there! If there is not a better reason, I'll have a female cup adapter turned to fit a port o power and put downward force onto the stud while I beat on the spot again. Thanks, Rob

The cable is probably busted in the housing requiring replacement. The age of the truck leads me to this area. They are getting expensive to replace as the electronics are more prevelant now. Pull the dash panel forward by removing the screws around the perimeter, take the knurled nut for the cable jacket free from the back of the speedometer. I then usually insert a smaller straight slot screwdriver into the square recess the cable end slides into and turn the speedomer gear. Look for deflection on the meter. If no deflection, turn the other way. Grab the square end of the cable protruding from the jacket and pull on it. It should not come out for there is a crimped end on the other end of the cable. If you cannot pull the cable from the jacket; Move the truck under it's own power with the dash loose just a few feet and look for rotation of the cable. I don't think it will move but if it does, the problem is in the speedometer head. If it doesn't move, take the jacket loose the the upper rear of the transmission, and try to spin it by hand. It should move really easy. If it doesn't rotate it is probably twisted and bound up broken in the jacket. You can try to pull the cable from the jacket and sometimes they readily remove, sometimes they don't. It should slip right out of the jacket with little effort. If the cable does come out be sure to oil it well with speedometer lube, (auto parts stores sell this) before putting it back together. Hopefully that cable is alright. Speedometers are available on ebay quite often and are usually priced less expensively than having an original repaired. Good luck. Rob

Always great to have "talent" participate in the forum(s). I've always been one that liked the V8's myself, (I currently have three) and will be sure to post a few questions myself. There is no replacement for experience, and a person willing to share their experience is an invaluable asset. We look forward to your participation and welcome to the site! Rob

Growing up in St. Louis the cars and trucks had to be safety inspected by the state yearly, and a St. Louis city sticker had to be purchased annually also. This was in the 60's so the practice has went on for a long time. Any way they can get money out of you. Rob

Ahh, yes. The orientation of the part in the photo is not how it is mounted onto the perimeter of the door aperture opening. I've never had to purchase one of those, always made them. I must say, "You're going after it right". Rob

Hi Grant, I recongnize the inner roof support above the sunvisor area(s), and the floor stiffener but what is the part centered between the two? I've never bought one of those before. Rob

For reference: In 1997 I replaced a cab on a 1997 CH-613 daycab tractor, (electrical fire damage) with a 12,400 mile original that was complete. The donor truck rolled over with a frameless dump and stuck grain. The only damage to the donor cab was where the passenger mirror destroyed the door. The cab came with a new OEM door shell, and all replacement window and latch parts from another truck. The air lines were cut in front of the valves leaving everything intact for an easy swap. The wiring was not cut, but rather, unplugged. I paid $6500.00 for this complete, and it even had the upgraded interior with twin air seats, and nice interior decor package. Although I did drive 230 miles to retreive it, I was very comfortable as if it would have been my truck, it would have been rebuilt. The complete job including full repaint did not cross $15,000.00. In fact I gutted the cab out, replaced all the glass with used, bleached the entire cab to rid it of burnt electrical smell, had it media blasted, then primed, and sold it to a guy who probably still runs it. Structurally it was not hurt, and there was no damage, or warp at all. $34,000.00 is a lot of money in my book any angle it is looked at. R model cabs can be had a lot less expensive than CH models most any day I've found. In fact I purchased a very nice rust free bare cab without dents for my RL-755L at less than $700.00 just last year. Good trucks and parts are out there, one just has to be patient to find them. I admire your "drive" to rebuild that truck. I've seen a lot better scrapped. I'm sure you have some experience with autobody work or you would never expend the sizeable funds you ultimately will for parts and supplies. Just don't give up once you start! I've rebuilt several through the years and if I can help, just ask! Rob

That's about right Grant. The last passenger side outer skin panel that I bought was $430.00 about a year and a half ago. That panel looked OEM by the photo. $34,000.00 for a new cab??? Someone really wants to own it forever!! Probably wants to be buried in it too. Rob

Was that from the Chicagoland area, or a statewide function? Rob

Do they smog test in the communist republic of Illinois on large trucks? Rob

Trent, that would be a great start. I'm not sure what kind of differences there would be with a standard "R" series cab and an "RW" series where the hood meets the cowl area. I can get around anything of course. If you happen to run across the owner of the Superliner mentioned earlier try to get the chassis serial number of the posted RL if possible. There were only three RL-755LST tractors produced, (consecutive serial numbers) and that one is near a "spitting image" of mine. I know where the sister truck to mine was, but it had been scrapped several years ago. Mine was the second produced, and would like to locate the first. Thanks, Rob

Nice looking unit to work out of. Are the dates on the photos correct and if so, is the truck still as clean as the photos show? Rob

I used to travel the state extensively in days gone by.... You are quite a bit south in the state. I always liked it there. Rob

I've got more than I need; I'm not a trucker either, just like trucks. Where are you from in so IL? Rob

Wouldn't worry about that. The guy is a well known crook that is as bad as his predecessor. Ryan is proof that you can only piss so many people off till it catches up with you. Blagos' time is comming. I received the new air governor today but did not install it. Probably won't get a chance until the middle of next week but truck is not needed all that often. Rob

After this one is locked up for corruption. Rob

Hi Tom, thanks for the photo's. Do you have any other information on that R-700 series tractor? It is very similar to my RL-755, and has a lot of the same "look" I'm after. Thanks, Rob

Yes, I have fitted a plate to the inside area with a couple of captive nuts, (upper and lower) ready to weld together. Need to spread the hanging weight over the side of the area to prevent cracking from vibration. Excellent point to bring up. Thanks, Rob

Does anyone have a couple photos of air cleaner on the left side of an R model cab, (R-700 series)? I'm going to run twin air filters on the V-12 truck but have never seen this setup before in person. I would like to have photos of the actual filter housing itself, the bracket retaining it to the truck, along with the cutout in the hood if possible. I have the two "Farr" box filter assemblies that came with the engine and could use them with some hand made "scoops", but want to investigate the usage of the later round style such as Donaldson. I realize I could do this "grafting" myself but want an OEM look if possible. The passenger side of the cab, (USA) has a recess and the other side does not that the mounting bracket bolts through. Thanks, Rob

Hi Thad, been wondering where you've been hiding lately. I ordered one this afternoon as per everyones advice. I don't have an air dryer on that truck so it should be pretty straight forward. Thanks, Rob

Thanks Barry for the advice. Is there a difference between compressor mount D-2 governors, and the remote mount type? Thanks, Rob

It has what appears to be a normal home air compressor relief valve on the wet tank and does blow at 155 psi measured. It is stamped at 150 psi on the body. Rob

Kinda figgered that Glenn. I've never seen too much Sealco parts around but my experience is limited. Thanks again, Rob

There is no hose connection on the rt. side. That is a threaded adjustment bolt for pressure I'm certain. Like Glenn states, replace with a D-2 so that's what I'm going to do. I assume the diaphragm has ruptured or torn causing the problem. Thanks, Rob

Tonight I had to fire up ole "Trusty Rusty" the 64 B-61 for a little tug on a trailer. As is the norm, he started right up idled smooth and started to build air pressure just fine. With about 80psi in the tanks I proceeded to hook up to the trailer and upon reentering the cab I noticed the air pressure was well over 150 psi. I quickly stepped on the service brakes several times to bring the pressure down quickly but this thing just kept a pumping and right up to 150 psi again. I know the air governor has prolly gone "belly up" but it is not the normal D-2 style that I'm acclimated with. This one says Sealco on it and looks different. Can I replace this one with a Bendix style, or should I stay with this type, (assuming it is still available), or look for a rebuild kit? Hopefully the photo will show up. Thanks, Rob