Rob

Tonight I strapped on my elephant harness to my body and pulled the old Mack chassis from the weeds. For Knobby: (This added weight gives me more "tractive effort"). This truck is on Budd hubs front and rear, has hydraulic power steering, and a useable full double frame without breakage. There is no engine and/or transmission, nor useable sheet metal. I was looking at the drop in carriers for the drive axles and the castings and housings are different than any I've seen before. The bolt pattern, and number of bolts that hold the carriers to the housings are less. I took photos but cannot post them until later. The reason for this post is that the cast steel backing plates where the roto chambers mount are broken on three wheels and have been welded back together. They are not straight, or in line with where they used to be. These are at least 44000# suspension rears. I have a 64 B-61ST that has what appear to be the same type setup with minor differences, mainly the grease zerks that I can readily see. The front axle housing on this truck is cracked at the spring perch and has been scabbed, (terribly) together and leaks rather well. Will the backing plates swap over? The leaking housing has 6.34 rears, and the other housing has 5.77 which would be a little faster for this truck. A neglible difference I know, but I suspect the 6.34 in front to have the beginnings of problems. Thanks, Rob

Didn't the "L", (lightend components) engines use a single disc, push style clutch assy? All that I've seen have been this way. Both of my B models that have dual disc clutches have iron flywheel housings, and are pull style clutches, (I think). Rob

I assume you have fold over ramps that lay on the dovetail? I don't care for those because of the limitations you mention. I've chained mine so the point straight out the back almost parallel to the ground to provided clearance. If you do something like that, don't rely solely on the clevis hooks of the chains for support. Bolt you chain links together so the don't come apart at an inopportune time. Rob

Thanks Rod, I will in the near future start the research into this "venture". I've pretty much got the NZ part locked down. A dear friend of mines' wife is actually from NZ and they visit every other year. We will travel with them and stay together during their duration traveling the country. Upon their departure back to the states, my party will depart for Australia for another four to six weeks sightseeing and visiting. As far as going back? I dunno. I'm ready for a change. Don't really owe anybody anything. Kids are grown and gone. Don't even have grandkids yet. My new "younguns" have a bulldog on the hood, it would be really expensive to import my trucks there I'm sure. How does one negotiate traffic there in a left hand steer vehicle? Is that anywhere near common? Rob

Be REAL careful doing that Squid. Ensure you have at least 80 psi in the trailer tires. I've seen many single tire tandem axle trailer tires broken loose from the rim at the bead during a sharp turn. This is of course due to overloading, and you are right at that limit. I've always carried mine engine forward, and about 60% of the weight on the pulling unit by backing the truck as far as possible on the trailer deck. Good luck, Rob

Hi Chris. Fortunately my wife does not read this board and has very little interest in my trucks, hobbies, or for the most part, my personality! She thinks I"m "gross", (imagine that)! This trip is to be an aniversary gift and I want to include my mother in law as she has been such a positive influence in our lives, and while getting along in age, is still very adventuresome. I will be enlisting several persons to guide me along on the trip as to where to stay, eat, visit, and such. Want to make the trip interesting for all but I don't relax doing nothing very well. I think participating with a "road train" for my own relaxation would be great. On another note, how difficult would it be to get either a permit, or license to drive an automobile in OZ, and NZ? Would it be money ahead to purchase a car while there as opposed to renting? It seems if I were to purchase, and have someone there broker the sale once departed, it might be less costly. I do plan to cover quite a bit of distance on the trip. What do you think? Thanks, Rob

Yes, I want to get back "in touch" with my long lost cousins the "Maori" of NZ. I hear their Bar-B-Q is delicious, especially the "long pig", and "hairless goat". Now that I think about it, prolly better get my tattoo(s) freshened up a bit. I'll be sure to bring my 12 inch "Mr Gasket" racing steer wheel to ensure that my oversize carcass will fit into the cab. I don't have many problems with my own B models once securely shoved into place, and if someone from the outside slams the driver's door for me. With enough downward force applied to the seat, nothing moves. Sure hope you have vinyl seating upholstery in your trucks as I would hate to "ooze" any fluids onto them, leave a mess, and ruin the whole experience. Better go for now as this "lazy" eye of mine is starting to be a bother and needs a rest. Have a great day Mate! Rob

Hi Andy, sorry for the delay as I didn't see your post. We're planning an extended outing that will be approximately six weeks in length. We would like to visit a good portion of the country, (and persons) bypassing most of the important "stops" for tourists. I don't really care to be bogged down if traffic and such, but would rather see something as it really is, intermingling with the populace. My brother was into port at Perth a couple of times when in our military. My grandpa was in Oz also during the war. I would find riding a road train "entertaining", but don't think my wife would care to ride along. My mother-in-law, she would be right there with me. I'm "keenly" interested in learning to drive a Rt. steer B model Mack, and if the opportunity presents itself, I'm gonna jump on it, (hint, hint)!! Rob

Hey, I strongly resemble that!! Actually there is less of me now. I lost 3 pounds last week!! It was tough cutting just one large double cheese pizza from the diet per day, but I did it!! By the time we are ready for the trip to Siberia, I should be a fit and trim 295 pounds at this rate! Rob

I've never seen or been around one Trent. Is this something that is readily available? Do they run at a certain geared percentage of engine rpm if the trans doesn't need to be in gear? Rob

You're getting more like me everyday....... I agree with your diagnosis. Most times I've seen oil in the coolant, it has been related to an external cooler failure. The higher pressure of the oiling system overcomes the lesser coolant pressure and attempted equalization takes place with the transfer of fluids. Most everytime I have seen coolant in the oil, it has been related to the cylinder head(s). This is of course due to cracking, or blown head gaskets. Never seen an air compressor cause this symptom myself, but I'm certain someone with more experience has several times. Rob

Hi Guys, I have the correct six bolt style and adapter gear for this transmission but it is marginal for the usage. Nothing wrong with the unit, just that it is undersized for the type of duty I need to ask of it. I've never been one to "just get by" as breakdowns are expensive and never convienient. I'm going to push a hydraulic pump at 3000psi and the input torque requirements are for about 280 ft. pounds. The six bolt unit that I have is rated at 200 ft. pounds, (intermittent). I'm sure it would work as I don't plan to use full capability of my winch, (Tulsa 70) but would rather have the required cushion for safety factor. Thanks, Rob

Herb, Al has coolant in the engine oil, not the other way around as written. Could very well be the oil cooler heat exchanger has broken a seam internally and is a factor in the problem. A 1959 truck with an oil cooler would be rare, but not impossible if not added later, or an engine change. Al, if you have an external oil cooler; Remove it, find a way to plug the inlet, or outlet of either the oil section, or coolant section. Apply compressed air to the other end while the cooler is submerged in water with about 30 psi. Any leaks will appear as bubbles. Rob

Hi Grant, I've never seen an eight bolt setup on a quad myself. Is this the single countershaft type transmission, or a later model 18 speed? I don't know if the single countershaft type would use the same type pto or not. If you would know the transmission type, or model, I could check for fitment. Thanks, Rob

You could take the wires loose from the back of the gauge, wire in a 0-500 ohm potentiometer in series and set at maximum resistance, and then connect a battery into the circuit. You would then place across the terminals of potentiometer, (use a digital meter as the impededance is about 10 megohm) and slowly reduce the circuit resistance watching the needle deflection of the fuel gauge. When you have a indication of "full" by the needle, you can read your multimeter and this will be the approximate resistance of your gauge. These things are not built precise enough to be exactly 330 ohms, (for instance) but will be within 15% for full scale deflection. Rob

I've seen that video and it is quite good; Wouldn't want my employees working like that with my equipment, but the gent operating was as I say "good". I know several people that work at Cats' "Proving Grounds" outside of Peoria. It is something to watch these folks, (both guys and gals) test their talents with equipment. There is one gent that can use a huge excavator and pick up three 1/2 inch ball bearings, from three different locations, that are just sitting on loose soil with the bucket. When the bearings are dumped into a five gallon bucket by the operator, there is not a half pound of dirt with them! I have seen this trick several times with my own eyes and it is hard to believe. Another one I really enjoy is watching these guys, (and gals) pick up bowling balls with a skid steer one at a time. I've seen one guy get nine in a bucket without spillage. Remember, this is done one ball at a time! As they say, "No substitute for time in the saddle". Rob

Hi Squid, I've hauled my B61ST on a single tire, tandem axle 24 ft. trailer several times without problems. The gooseneck trailer I use has two 7000# axles under it. The tires are good and maintained properly so if you have the same equipment available, I wouldn't hesitate! Rob

Very nice unit there Kelly! I have the same aluminum wheels for the front of my B-61 also. They really look nice on yours. Rob

Thanks Terry; You are correct, the "pitch diameter" will be different of the driving gear on the 107 as opposed to a 1071 series. The basic PTO arrangement is the same and I plan to purchase a new input driven gear as acquiring the correct ratio in a used PTO assy. would not be my luck. Rob

Hi Greg, sometimes you have to be clear with the parts supplier if you need outer, or inner diameter when ordering pipe. I've seen this several times in the past. A lot of folks don't think to ask, especially if they are looking in a catalog for a specific application, but when custom building something, it always seems to need to be addressed. That A-30 will look sharp with chrome stacks. I think four inch is perfect. Rob

Hi there, I'm looking for an eight bolt PTO for a two stick six speed Mack transmission, (TRDXL-1071). Don't really care about the ratio at this point or method of engagement. I'm going to drive my hydraulics and need a higher torque rating than my six bolt will be rated for. Thanks, Rob

Hmmmm, obviously struck a nerve here. Sorry 'bout that don'tcha know. Never meant to offend. I'll hereby withdraw my interest and cause you no further dispair. Good luck, and enjoy our hobby. Rob

NOISE! Don't forget the NOISE! This project really sounds like you are into it "full tilt"! What type of injection pattern are looking at, conical, radial, trapezoidal, and what type of injection pressure are you suspecting to need to meter the fuel spray to the correct injection point target? This optimization will probably need to be derived through analysis, but even burn is essential to eliminate, or minimize supersonic pulses within the combustion chamber. Would there be a little better outcome if you started with a true "axial flow" engine as opposed to a modified automotive turbocharger? It would seem the total package could be minimized in physical size and this engine installed into something than more of a static display? It would be kinda neat to see a car, or small truck model pushed along with this engine. Rob

Hi Stephan, we are saying the same thing regarding water/methanol injection as far as injection of the fuel to be burnt, the expansion rate of combustion, and using water to cool internal parts to keep from melting. I did know that power is in fact increased with this injection system as I've seen, (and used) it on many different applications. What I meant is that with water/methanol injection is that you can inject much more fuel/air mixture for more power and keep the engine from melting down from the heat of combustion. Glad to hear you are serious about this hobby as you stated. I've always liked obscure, or different things to experiment with. I'm sure you meant to say that water is composed of two atoms of hydrogen, and one of oxygen instead of nitrogen. As you know nitrogen is an inert gas and to the best of my knowledge, does not readily support combustion. Best of luck with your project! What type of fuel are you planning to use, acytelyene, propane, or a liquid type fuel? I would assume that a gaseous mixture as that is what most persons in the hobby try to use. Rob

Your best path of progression with an old truck's wiring is a good "point to point" electrical diagram, and a multimeter. Many vehicles have burnt severely using "plug and chug" troubleshooting. Guessing to which wire goes where can be, and usually is costly in the end. You are working with cloth covered, plastic jacketed wiring, that is 40 plus years old and brittle. It breaks easily and disturbing it's natural "lay" can be very detrimental while tracing for problems. With an electrical print, you do not have to disturb anything, just probe point A, & B, for continuity and/or voltage and current flow. An older service manual will have electrical diagrams, theory of operation, and normal indications listed. The website www.oldmacksrus.com is a very good place to start. No one here can fix your trucks, only give suggestions obtained through experience to the questions you ask. The actual repair takes homework and labor on your part. Obtaining an answer from a website such as this is not always going to be accurate, as we are not actually looking at the problem(s) inquired about. I'd hate for you to go off on a tangent to accomplish someones suggestion, and it be incorrect, causing you future grief. I gather from your previous posts, and questions, that you have little experience with trucks from the standpoint of repair/maintenance. Nothing wrong with that as we all have to start somewhere. I, along with others, will help most anyway we can with a project but I don't personally like to feel the person asking the questions is not trying on their own for accomplishment. There is no negative reference in that last comment. If someone is trying, I will do my best to help them. Now I think I'll have a quart of beer, and a large bowl of momma's potato salad, along with a few boiled eggs, so I can entertain the guys at work tomorrow. Rob