Rob

The condensor fan motor is frozen solid as is the blower fan motor in the cabin. The wiring sets both get power when the switch is turned on. I also discovered the aluminum case is "ripped" open from something sharp, or very hard but could be repaired. The system has no refrigerant within, so the hardware is probably no good either. Rob

What is the valve called that has the yellow knob one pushes to release the spring brakes, (PP1, PP2)? The one in the "new" RL leaks when it is pushed in. A slight touch on the yellow knob from the side causes it to leak air also when the brakes are set. I'm to the point of doing maintenance on the air system and there are many leaks due to sitting I'm sure. Thanks, Rob

Glad to hear you're making out ok. Was wondering about you since it had been awhile since you've posted. Having a truck set up for "multi usage" is no doubt a benefit such as you have mentioned and experienced. It seems to have played a part in keeping you working. Rob

I have several 22" tube type rims but you would be much better off to either convert to 22.5", or 24.5" tires with the correct rims. Those straight 22" tires are becoming difficult to obtain. An 11RX24.5 tire is virtually the same diameter as the 10.00X22 tires. The 24.5" tire can be ran beside the 22" tire without problems. Rob

No. You will need different rims to fit the tire. Dayton hubs fit either 20" tube type rims, or 22.5" tubeless rims. Rob

Went for my first "lengthy" cruise this afternoon and the truck runs, and drives great. The brakes no longer grab, and are smooth and predictable upon application. There is no side pulling at all. It rides a little softer than camelback suspension, but still is no car..... It is definately liveable though and with a flatbed installed, should be quite soft. I am especially surprised how well I like the transmission. Driving it like a two speed rear is perfect. It shifts crisp, (like RIGHT now) on the upshift split with a "blip" of the throttle, and when preselected to low on the next upshift, it is waiting on you. Downshifting is just as easy to accomplish. The rpm's fall off just like a gasoline engine and the gear spread is similar. Another thing to note; The throttle response is like nothing else I've driven. In my shops' yard, I can place the transmission into 2nd gear high, start the truck rolling, floorboard the accelerator, and spin the tires! I've not tried it with the power divider locked in but it is sure hard on turf! I'm going to need to either replace the water pump, or have it rebuilt as the thing has hastened it's leaking to almost a steady stream. I've now got all of the existing wiring functions working. Need to install a set of flaps, lights, and probably a bumper before licensing after the first of the year. The heater now works great and I may move the roof skin replacement up on the schedule as it is actually worse than originally thought. Still have not gotten the Air-O-Matic steering working. I have isolated the problem to the 60psi safety valve being defective. It is stuck in the "shut off" position from sitting most likely. The frame mounted air solenoid is getting power via the dash mounted switch but there is no air to it to pass to the torque valve. This I have to work on as the truck steers like a "brick". I'm sure a fresh grease job would help tremendously. Also discovered that my reverse air actuated piston is unreliable. Went to back the truck up and could not get the trans to shift to reverse. It has worked well until this time. The rebuild kit that is on order will arrive either Monday, or Tuesday so it will be rebuilt shortly therafter. Kinda hard to shove this thing backwards by myself. Rob

That would be appropriate if my post weren't a solicitation to place funds into someones operational budget; a.k.a. paying job. I think we all need those! Rob

Tonight I went at the acid thing again. Positive this evening as the heater started to blow hot air out of the box. I opened both side doors on the heater and out come seven "little ones" that were all dead from airflow. Little guys that weren't very old. The nest was in there also but the blower wheel made short order of it. Really glad I hadn't cleaned up the interior cause I'd have really been pissed off considering the mess I've got now. Mouse shit was flying like missles through the cab when I first opened the doors! I premixed a 20% solution in an external jug, then pumped this into the radiator while the engine was running. The engine stabilized at about 150 degrees so while it just sitting there running, I figgered might as well do something so I put an old 55 gallon step tank on the driver's side and strapped it in. Looks a bit strange being a step tank with RL style tank brackets which have grip strut steps. While the cooling system was draining, I went ahead and hooked up the fuel lines and dumped 20 gallons of red fuel into it. Upon a fresh fill of tap water, I decided to go for a little "spin" as I'd never driven the truck outside of my building. What a surprise this thing is on the throttle; Instantaneous is an accurate statement. After learning to shift this trans somewhat correct, it is a fun truck to drive. With no weight on the back it is a little light, but the suspension is soft being Reyco 102, (34,000lb). I was always under the impression that Reyco suspension had very good articulation on a tandem setup. What seemed to be the slightest incline needed the power divider engaged to keep moving. I'm surprised how well and smooth the truck seems to be. I don't have the air o matic steering working as of yet. It has a switch to select it on or off in the dashboard with an electric air solenoid valve attached to the frame above the torque valve. I also have not checked for continuity, or DC power to this valve yet. That big steering wheel has got to go, or I need to continue to reduce size and weight. It is hard to steer with my belly dragging on the horn button with the seat all the way back, and deflated. My 15 inch custom wheel would be nice but it would be too hard to turn with manual steeing. Truck should be drained by now and I want to fill it again with fresh water. The drain water was nearing a clear stage, but still has rust color to it. I'm going to acid it again tomorrow evening and that will probably be it. I don't have low silicate anti-freeze but need to get a barrel. Is any one brand better that the others? Thanks, Rob

Being useful beats the shit out of being useless!! Rob

Glad you were able to get that task accomplished. I was starting to get confused as to my own identity. I do however, confuse easily. You see Barry is not such a bad guy, just not as lovable as me. He even let you keep your avatar. Rob

My '64 711 with the larger corner head studs has had a turbocharger on it since 66. I can't tell you if the engine has been rebuilt or not, but the turbo conversion was performed by a Mack dealer in Chicago due to head problems. Rob

Refilled the system with clear water this evening, let the engine run, then drained, and did the same again. I did not get to the plant to purchase more muratic acid due to job demands. Plan to continue tomorrow again with the 20% solution. I can tell by looking in the top radiator tank that there are positive results so far. Rob

Those were common breakage area(s). Both of my RL's have been broken on the passenger side. The Cat powered truck has had the ear welded back on and it looks bad, but functional. I will repair it for cosmetic appearances. The "new" RL has the ear missing from the hanger. I know the front crossmember is aluminum on the V8 truck, but I'm not sure about the Cat powered truck, but I do think it is steel. They are differing in styles and design. I know it is a lot of work but if you want to pull them out of the truck and send them up here, I'll make ears for them. I assume you are still wanting to use the OEM Mack front bumper, and I have one to use as a pattern. Rob

Tonight I ran a 10% solution of muratic acid, (31% concentration in bottle) to water and let the truck run in the driveway for almost three hours. It drips consistently, (but slow) from the water pump and the temp never came past 160 degrees. I held the engine at about 1800 rpm for a while, let it idle for a while, revved to clear etc.. I then drained some of the nastiest looking garbage from the petcock that I've seen in a while. Had to keep cleaning it out with a piece of wire till I decided to remove the petcock complete. It then drained much better. I will do this again tomorrow but will up the concentration to 20%. I'm telling you the engine in this chassis really sounds nice. There is a distinct clatter of needing the overhead run, but nothing detrimental to operation. I need to order gaskets and make a few adjustments before starting to drive it. I did "rob" from a parts truck a shift tower and rebuilt my handle so the wild swinging is gone. The gear shifting progression is firm, crisp, and dependable. The brakes work very well, (into the windshield type good) and the clutch seems good. It is noisey when the pedal is depressed and sounds like the driving dogs in the flywheel are hammering on the center disc of the clutch assy. I'll get that addressed later. I have the parts to rebuild the air shifting cylinders, but haven't gotten that far yet. Even looks as the radiator may last for a little while. Rob

After clicking on the photo and viewing it full size, I readily see it is a Ross HF64 series box. It is the same that I have so I don't know what I was thinking either. I have two that leak like a cow pissing blood on a flat rock so they need rebuilt. I've used a company in Portland a couple of times for rebuilds and they are very good. I checked with them last week and the cost is $419.00 plus shipping no matter what is wrong with it. They weigh about 80 pounds each so shipping can be an issue of course. Local places want almost $750.00 to rebuild one! I'm not certain what I'm going to do with the wrecked truck; Knock the sheet metal, and sleeper off of it for sure. I've got a couple of 700 series hoods around here, and a usable cab, so if it is worthy, may build another truck out of it. One thing I don't have is a good extra set of drop ins for the rears which are missing. Those are easy enough to locate if need be. What type of front parts are you needing? I may have, or be able to come up with something. Rob

Yes, but I'm the lovable one. Who else can rest their gut on their kneecaps to use as a dinner table besides me? Rob

Hi James, thanks and it looks like you've got it figgered out! I would have thought that was a Ross steering box but I've never seen a Sheppard except what was on my Midliner Mack. The RS truck that hasn't shown up yet has that same steering box but is definately different from the p/s box on my RL that has p/s. I'll post a couple of mine this evening. Thanks again! Rob

Don't forget to use 4 penny nails around the perimeter to hold the glass in place until the glue sets up. Drive them till flush with the surface of the seal for a professional look. Of course for the look of "class", you could use fillister head screws. You know me; Just trying to help. May come through the Roanoke area as I can get my itenerary settled. One more party on this list to visit, and retrieve parts from on my trip. Rob

What would be a good cleaner for the cooling system that is loaded with rust, and garbage? I typically use a 10%-20% muratic acid mix two or three times and it's always worked well, but looking for other ideas. Don't care about leaks because if it does, they needed fixed anyways. I removed all the hoses and ordered new and in the radiator tanks, and lower hose was this nasty, thick, rust paste that is very slimey. Don't think the cooling system has had the greatest of maintenance! There is no water in the oil and the engine runs smooth, so hopefully the liners and such are still in sound shape. Rob

They typically just snap over the outer edge of the axle flange and are retained by the force fitting. They also bend easily when they are removed with a pry bar. Don't be surprised if they are rusting after about a year or even shorter. The plating is less than second rate most times. I purchased stainless for my trucks and then had them polished by a plater. They look nice but haven't been exposed to any elements except for dog piss one time, (to which I neutered the dog), (imagine that). He became "road kill" shortly afterward. If your truck is outside a lot, spend the extra money for stainless would be my advice. Rob

I just turn the hammer around backwards....... Rob

Woke up just as the last video was finishing. Therapeutic they are!! I feel so much more relaxed now....... Rob

Don't get so enthused. You could be here with me watching paint dry. Rob

I am promoting a brake job special on Tom's Pete this week. My expert brake work tends to allow driver's to "make up for lost time" by temporarily removing from service police cars running radar. See attached photo for some of my work. Rob

I really would like to find an RL-700-L hood emblem for an R model. I am short one for the Cat powered truck an plan to get going onto this project just after the first of the year. Thanks, Rob