Keffer inc

Looked at it again this morning with the master tech, and air is leaking from the bottom of the air valve. Hopefully still o rings?

It felt like something was chipped of broke off, rough feeling like half a plug was missing

I found a picture of what I think is broke

Hello, My work truck lost reverse at the end of the day, air is leaking from the top of the transmission, under the air valve at the rear of the trans. I cant tell for sure, but it feels like a threaded pipe plug has broke and is leaking the air. I still have lo/hi range for driving but when I try reverse, It starts to lightly grind and hissing air. I put my finger between the air body and the housing and I pretty sure its coming out from the top of the trans. feels like half the plug broke off. Can anyone confirm if that is a plug or something more serious. Our other tractor is in the shop for king pins as well so we're down both trucks now. Need help asap so we can keep going Monday. Thanks

You're probably right, just figured theres a newer year that could have them. "If you can't buy it, fab it"

We have a 1987 DM series dump truck at work, and its a total piece of crap! we have cracks running all over the rocker panels and firewall too. We've welded several times to try and fix it, and it always splits open again. If moneys not an issue, I would find a cab that was air-ride, and swap the cab and air equipment over.

ok, thanks for the responses.

How can I prove it without having the truck there? Will taking a picture of the door info and of the truck be enough?

Two issues: My truck is a 1994 CH613 with 3 axles, but my title is listed as only 2 axles? also, the trucks GVWR is listed as 80,000 and the GCWR is left blank... The GVWR should be what the truck can haul without a trailer, Gross Combined Weight Rating should say 80,000. The truck has a VA title, but I moved to NC and they know what the're talking about with plates. Should I try and fix these or don't say anything to DMV when I get tags for it and hope they don't say anything either?

I am certain I saw that truck at "charlies truck stop" in Virginia Beach, VA

VA If the truck has a GVWR 26,000 or more, you need a CDL. If your trailer GVWR is over 10,000 you need a class A CDL.

Thank you for the offer. If its basicly the same installation, I think I should buy the '85 book off ebay, $25. Thanks for the in-sight.

Does anyone know where I can find a manual for my '94 T2090 transmission? I see two on ebay for the T2090, but they were printed in Feb 1985... Probably not applicable to my trans..? Other than buying from Mack (haven't checked on price yet) does anyone know where I can look? Or a link to a web page? Basicly want this so I can change my clutch and do it correctly. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm glad its only sensors and not something costly.

Thanks for the help, how can I be sure I have V-mac II? Drop the computer from under the fuse panel and look at the logo? of is there an easier way? Also, where can I find a list of the II codes at so I don't read the wrong thing and get scared as easly? Thanks again

Are they different from V-MAC III codes? I heard the codes were all the same, just more get added to each newer version. Also, I forgot to add this, if I rev slowly up towards 1400 RPM and hold around there, the engine acts like it has a slight mis-fire. Excellent throttle response though if I hit the gas. I plan on getting what fittings it takes to make a test gauge with a tire stem to pump up the system. Unless your pretty sure its "code 22 is coolant temp sensor and 24 is intake temp sensor"

I added coolant already and that fixed 1-7. As far as boost, I accually have the guage on my dash, some how I over looked it. Just sitting still no load reving up to 1800-2000 rpm I get 1-2 psi... I know I need to hook up to a trailer and test drive, just don't have tags or insurance yet. I might get my boss to let me bring it to the shop on our lowboy. I can't feel any leaks, but with the fan running how can anyone... Don't hear any leaks, either at idle or rev'd, inside or out. My exhaust is straight pipe right now due to rust, but I can hear the turbo spooling up and all just like my company CH, which for a litle bit, was straight pipe as well. can the manifold preasure sensor be tested by voly meter.

On my '94 Ch, I just started the truck and got both shut engine off and electronic malfunction lights on the dash. It gave me 1-7 (coolant level which is a little low, not worried about that code) 2-2 (Inlet Air Preasure or Boost Preasure??) and 2-4 (Transmission Oil Temp). All three came on from starting my truck cold in 60*f weather. 2-4 I think has been on years ago when my father drove it. bad sensor I'm sure from cold start. 2-2 has me the most worried, boost preasure? how can I check (no gauge on dash). Previous work done: New valve cover gaskets, less than a mile ago a few weeks ago. Brake Chamber (not related..) Thats about it. Was about to dump all my money into a clutch to start my company but now somewhat nervous. Taking to the dealer will murder me. Thanks in advance. additionally: I shut the truck off and restarted it. The shut down light was only on, no yellow light. Then a few minutes later, all three codes were back

Never mind, after lots of research, I learned if you turn off cruise control and the hold the set/resume button it will flash the computer code using the electronic malfunction light. Just in case someone else was wondering.

"coolant temp sending unit" bad reading? blown or partially unplugged fuse (#10?) On my 1996 CH, there is a factory jump wire in the harness for an optional on/off switch, could be coming unplugged? (behind the headlight switch panel) Just a couple ideas. all guesses though....

I own a 1994 CH613 with a 350 engine & drive at work a 1996 CH613, both with the older square dash panels. I just read though, if on a newer truck, you can read a trouble code by counting the lightning bolt flashes. Can this be done on older CH models like mine? Thanks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170946642749?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_101wt_1141 http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Mack-CH-CL-Vision-Granite-truck-Cab-Flairs-/00/s/OTk0WDc3Nw==/$T2eC16dHJGIE9nnWrdEFBQrQrd577w~~60_35.JPG

Just wondering, how much would you want for the exhaust pipe under the sleeper, the section from the flex pipe going into the muffler? and the fairing on the rear of the sleeper?

Late response, but thank you everyone. I think I'm going to have enough money to buy the Mack dealer clutch. Hopefully will be hauling containers out of Norfolk, VA in January if all goes good.

I've been beating my brains out trying to find the cheapest new clutch that will work on my truck. I think I have a T2090 transmission. Shift pattern is: lo, 1, 2, 3, flip to high 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 The best price I've seen so far is from Tidewater Fleet Supply SS108935-51 is for around $580 without a core return, they don't take self adjusting clutches which I think mine is. I've been looking nationally on the web. Does anyone have anyone they favor?