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Posts posted by terry
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24 minutes ago, blackdog2 said:
The all red 58-20-20 light weight is 32,500 smooth body high lift gate hardox body Did a 6-lane RT-1 tear out 1+ mile asphalt , concrete , trolly track's not 1-dent or wear 3-year' job .......I have tractor DM-686 sx also same spec rough rider ?
Was it loaded with a excavator or end loader, big difference on box damage. terry And also how well it was broken up before loading
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3 minutes ago, blackdog2 said:
3-R& 2-DM's
Beautiful bunch of Mack’s!👍. Terry
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10 hours ago, Joey Mack said:
yes, pull the valve covers, certainly wouldnt hurt to drop the oil pan. if you have lifter issues there will likely be bits in the pan. you describe the sound as a clicking. so it is not popping back into the intake or ''poof poof poof'' out the exhaust? is the oil level raising up, and /or is the oil diluted with fuel. you can do a simple 'halo' test on a piece of cardboard to see if the oil is diluted.
Joey your comment on the poof poof out the exhaust, I once had a DM with a 237, when ever you backed off it or coasted down a hill it would do that, had a loose exhaust seat, ran a long time that way. When I eventually pulled the head you could see where it was moving up and down in the carbon buildup. Terry
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The B models that came without factory p/s had no u joints in steering column, factory p/s had one u joint right at steering box. Terry
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12 hours ago, Krost Way said:
That's what I was wondering. When you say right front wheel do you mean driver side or passenger side.
Passenger side. terry
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If the water temperature was that hot, wouldn’t the exhaust temps. Be higher? Terry
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49 minutes ago, skydawg said:Could someone explain the "Flintstone"moniker?
Believe it's a Australian term for the hard nosed macks terry
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Can you check between lift or supply pump and injection pump to see if you getting fuel there? That’s where I would start. Terry
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I’ll bet at least countershaft bearings are junk. Terry
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the six speed is a direct trans. would not work good with the older rear ratios, the right model of the old style trasmissions are overdrive in both boxes. terry
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6 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:Personally, I would never consider running that trans without pulling completely apart and, at the VERY least inspecting if not just outright changing all the bearings. The comment was made that those tranny's are not made for the HP that the E-6 produces and that is correct. However, unless you intend to pull HEAVY loads or maybe race it in the 1/4 mile, it shouldn't matter. I would think that a good, serviceable duplex should be easy to find and cheaper to buy than rebuilding what you have. If you DO Intend to pull relatively heavy loads, heavy enough that you want a dual disk clutch, being a 283, that engine should be a Maxidyne (EM-283) and if so, a 6 speed Maxitorque was designed for the torque curve generated by that engine and should also be relatively easy and inexpensive to find. I have all that stuff, twin stick 6 speed, dual disk clutch assembly and bell crank setup for converting the linkage BUT, the shipping would probably be pretty steep and then there is crossing the boarder from Canada which may, or may not create issues (it SHOULDN'T but we are taking about Govt so). Kinda too bad, if you WERE interested, I just came back from Oklahoma and could have taken it with me and shipped it from there. BTW, I also have a duplex to sell but again, shipping would be prohibitive and I don't think you would have any trouble finding either a duplex OR a 6spd Maxitorque either locally or at least relatively close. They are fairly plentiful. Also, I]the reason I am suggesting a duplex rather than a triplex or quadplex should you search out a replacement is that, with the Maxitorque engine you don't NEED 15 speeds of the triplex, you don't really NEED the 10 speeds of the duplex, the engine was designed to run with 6 speeds (5 actually). Well, that is all that I think I know but I am a neophyte when to come to these Marks so I am not guaranteeing anything I had said to be "gospel", just what I have gathered in my recent and ongoing B-61 engine swap journey. All just opinions and worth exactly what you paid for it (maybe less) LOL.
Have to comment on the trans. Statement about how many gears are needed, you do need more gears with a single counter shaft trans behind the 237 or 285 engine that series of trans will not take the lugging down them engines can do. Terry
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2 hours ago, D-Day said:
There was a thread on here from a couple of years ago titled engine size in 65 Mack B53 and he posted some nice pictures proof that the tip turbine will fit under the hood, I do know the front crossmember/engine mount is different also another issue is if you have a single plate clutch with the short bell housing you would want to change to a two plate clutch with a little stronger transmission to handle the higher torque rating and you would have to redrill the rear mounts through the frame relocating them farther to the rear
You also have to use a shorter nosed water pump, and shorter crank hub. terry
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Nice!!😀 terry
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13 hours ago, Keith S said:
All the stud are 9/16-18 x 6.75". A few are little rust-pitted, and a few more show minor marks from using vise-grips.
I was able to easily remove the nuts on all but one of the eight studs that unscrewed from the block. I'm confident the studs will torque up.
Just be sure to run a die on each end of studs and run a bottom tap and blow out stud holes on block. Terry
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Maybe a variation of a E model? terry
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10 hours ago, Brian L Blaylock said:
Hey everyone I need some help I have a ENDT-865 that will not start but will hit on ether I have not had time to check it out in detail I’m going to change the filters and check all of the lines other than that or a bad supply pump what else could be wrong thanks
Leak in return line will let it bleed off. does that supply pump have the two little plastic check valves? if one is bad no pumping fuel. terry
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Wow they made the B model later there than the U.S. terry
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His has coolant water through it along with the air, yours is an older air only model. Terry.
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49 minutes ago, 66dc75 said:
Looks like it was converted from single axle to tandem
Data plate says ST, six wheel, tractor. Terry
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6 hours ago, mowerman said:
And yes, as I mentioned, I am still kicking myself in the ass that I sold that car one owner 78,000 miles… bob
We’re all kicking ourselves on cars that we sold when we were young! Terry
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7 hours ago, HarryS said:
I found an old B Model operation manual for gas powered trucks. It calls for 10* BTC with 91 octane gas. That was when gas was gas with lead and without alcohol. The closest thing in today's gas would be non ethanol with the same octane rating if you can find it. Probably have to experiment from that point.
Are you supposed to put harder valve seats in an older engine with the unleaded gas now? Terry
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Probably be a lot cheaper to fix the exhaust. Terry
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Rebuilt turbo and noise in the intake
in Engine and Transmission
Posted
I had a 237 engine that had a loose exhaust seat, ran quite awhile that way, had the pop,pop when you let off it or coasted with it, when I pulled the head you could see where it was moving up and down in the carbon buildup. Terry