terry

Do you have the middle seal out, seems to me there was a lip in there to press middle seal against.  Been along time since I had one of them apart!  Terry

6 hours ago, Warpman89 said:

this is the shift pattern so it must be a t2060a, is this a good transmission? It's the first I've seen like it

Definitley a new one on me!    terry

He said no air shift, the 2060,2070 and 2080 all had an air low range flipper on the stick.   Terry

47 minutes ago, terry said:

This is a new one on me to adjust.    terry

I was always told if you started it without the lock in it would loosen the clutch 🤷‍♀️

43 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

terry???  you ever break one of the 'dogs' off the pressure plate when trying to adjust a clutch that has been hammered to death, and your trying to get every bit out of it, but it's stuck,  jammed up with clutch dust in the teeth on the adjuster ring???  I have..  That sucks...  

can,t say that I have, I was a Mack dump owner, driver for 40 plus years, so most of my work was on my own truck. I would help in the shop for the company that I worked for once in a while , seems like his mechanic would use a rattle gun with a long bit to knock a stuck one loose.  Terry  

31 minutes ago, JoeH said:

IIRC on this style clutch you take out the lock tab, push the clutch pedal in, then spin the flywheel to thread the clutch tighter? Then reinstall the lock tab and you're good to go...

I may be a weee bit off though...

This is a new one on me to adjust.    terry

Don’t know what kind of clearance you have there, but sometimes you can just slide trans. Back and do your clutch work.   Terry

Counting the lolo in reverse, should be six.   Terry 

1 hour ago, JoeH said:

I've only had to do a head on these once, I did it by the book.  Torque to 200, drive around got an hour, retorque.  Its a pain to have to deal with all the intake tubing, and those valve covers are horrible to seal. Gotta do them dry and do not go above torque spec.

To many guys try to use silicone and squeezes the gasket out.    terry

I think the stand I have you have to use the oil cooler with it, it has two hard lines with o rings between cooler and stand, I’ll have to dig it out and take a look.  Terry

A agree with joeys system on a few more pounds of torque one time and run, I have seen guys do that without a problem.  Terry

8 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I think most times the fuel should return to a tank on one side and draw off the other side, this keeps all the fuel fresh and also keeps the fuel cooler 

 

 

Paul

I tried that once, the return side stayed way higher than the suction side. Apparently the crossover hose wouldn’t even it out fast enough.  Terry

I have seen guys retorque them and I have seen guys torque once and run it, better minds here will guide you😁. Terry

38 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

What the hell is a regenerative turkey!😂.   Terry

10 hours ago, nam vet said:

Ok ,here's what I got from this info. I need to look for a 2 or 3 spin on oil filter housing from a 625/237 Mack motor starting in about 1967, that was equiped with a turbo. Gasket are still available and its a straight forward bolt on swap. Terry asked if I had an oil cooler,not sure where to look or what they look like, if you guys could help me with that I would appreciate it.                                                                                                                     Also if any of you Mack guys have the correct oil filter housing I would prefer buying it off a Mack guy rather than searching for one. Truck salvage yards are few  and far between here in Mass.                                                                                                                                                                         Thanks to everybody for all your help!

I have a two spin on oil filter stand with the oil cooler attached, came off a 237, don’t have an idea what it would cost to ship?   Terry

Needs original bumper. Would look alot better.   Terry

Fifth photo down looks like a little bit of rust starting between frame rails ,check that real good, and look to see if outer rail has been welded along corners.    terry 

2 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

If you have an oil cooler, it'll sit just below the left side of your intake manifold and to the left of the oil filter pad. It'll be round, about 3-4" in diameter. It should have two large flex lines running into it and back to the filter pad. If you look at my photo of the spin-ons you'll see it.

Doesn't your spin on system have two metal oil tubes on top of filter housing one to each end of oil cooler?    terry

58 minutes ago, nam vet said:

Was the 675/237 a factory motor in some B models or are they transplants?

237 came out about 68, last B was 66 I believe.  Terryi have never seen that oil filter in the third pic.  Does the first pic. Engine have a oil cooler on it?

It’s a 237, beside the tip turbine I’m not sure what else needs to be done to make it a 285.   Terry

Whenever I’m trying to find something, I use my desktop computer, much better.  Terry

Seems to me some of them said tractor protection valve?  Terry

20 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

On the topic of bearing size, the first engine I ever assembled was back in the early 80's. I redid a SBC for my '57 chevy at a friends place. When it came time to assemble the engine, he was not home so I did it myself. Looked at the back of the bearings and they were not marked, no stamp on the crank so I bought STD bearings. While Chris HAD plastigauge in his tool box, I did not know how to use it so I assembled the engine and when he got home a couple days later, we put the engine in the car. We fired it up, set the timing and idle and Chris told me to button up the headers but, as a young, dumb kid I decided to drive it the 20 miles home with the headers open. Got pulled over for loud exhaust (of course) but the guy let me off as I told him I was just heading home to bolt up the exhaust, then, the "gen" light came on. I pulled into a gas station and popped the hood to find the harmonic balancer laying on the cross member. Called Chris to come help, he came out (got pulled over at the same intersection I did for running the stop sign), helped put the balancer back on and I drove it back to his place. Next day I went and bolted up the exhaust, put the bolt in the crank to hold the balancer (had not done that) and while the engine warmed up, we went in to have a coffee. While sitting there, Chris said "That engine is knocking". I said "That's just the compression knock" He said "no, there is another knock. Did you put the right bearings in?". I said I put in STD because I could not find any indication otherwise. We went out to his garage and pulled the old bearings out of the trash and confirmed that they were not marked (something Chris said he had never seen before). So, I dropped the oil and pulled the pan and Chris gave me a micrometer to climb under and check a rod journal. I pulled a cap to find some copper showing, miced the journal to find that it was .030 under DOH!!. Went up town and bought a set of .030 rod bearings and changed them under the car. Chris suggested checking a mains so I pulled a cap to look but the bearing had no copper showing so that was good. Put the pan back on, added oil and fired it up. Went in to wait for it to warm up and after it ran a bit, Chris said "that thing is still knocking". So, dumped the oil, pulled the pan and pulled a main cap and miced the journal....yup, also .030 under. Rolled in a set of .030 mains and all was good. A long winded way of arriving at the moral of the story but, unless the bearings are marked I ALWAYS mic the journals. I don't even trust a stamped crank as it could have been turned a second time and not restamped. Also, I now NEVER run a new engine without mufflers as open exhaust makes it pretty much impossible to hear what is going on. 

I ran into this on a 72 el camino, pulled the engine thought the bearings were std, reassembled and a small knock when warmed up, come to find out G.M. would grind a crank to a odd undersize, and make a matching bearing to save a crank with a real slight flaw.   terry

That could run a lot of trouble free miles for a guy!  Terry