The Heinz

The dealer ought to be able to start an eService case about installing a transverse torque rod. Have them go that route, get a parts list, and see what you can do. It sounds like you need to avoid and ignore that Spring Guy, doesn't sound like he has much when it comes to brains.

Look up TRW part L28HC0001K01, I crossed the original Mack part number to an Automann number, which said it crosses from the TRW number as well. I could not get that to work in a modern TRW number through Mack, but I found a few online sources. Automann didn't have any of these either...

You're absolutely welcome, it's what we're here for.

Good stuff!

I am rusty with Maxitorque transmissions, so hear me out with a handful of salt. This is the seal off the rear bearing cover under Compound Mainshaft for a Feb 1, 1991 - March 16 1995 year break T2180B. Joey can hopefully confirm if these are the same throughout the years. Part number 25623778, in stock at Transource Raleigh, Clinton, Fayetteville, Greensboro, Hickory, Rocky Mount, Salisbury, and Wilmington. Also available at McMahon in Charlotte as of yesterday.

They are a 680B to be specific. According to the rebuild kit lookup on Cummins (new owner of Jacobs), 018678 would be the number for the whole rebuild kit, Mack's number being 4559-18678. In stock in Mack warehouses.

I remember seeing that most of the solenoids I researched for a truck in the shop were available in warehouses. The Econovance itself will likely be unobtanium except for junkyards or parts trucks.

So, take this with a grain of salt, but we've had issues with Weller recently. BIG issues. Brand new Allison remans failing internally and contaminating the engine coolant with ATF, brand new mDrive components that lasted not even a month, all to the point our service department uses them as a last result. You might have suffered an issue similar to us...

Them making you buy all the seals is ridiculous, I've never done that here, even if I'm forced to order 30 nuts instead of 24 (Hino's worse about this than Mack/Volvo is). If there's overstock of a part, it's not my problem, it's warehouse's now.

What about it doesn't fit? Those are good part numbers per your VIN. You can get the complete hood right now, plenty in Mack warehouses; part number 1QM4316M -> 23397375 (Hood) and 82392414 (Spring Assembly) QTY 2.

So the VMAC II retrofit kit (215SB224) is available in Mack warehouses, and by that I mean they show to have a singular kit. It is really expensive.... The OEM supersession of your ECM is utterly unavailable from Mack or all dealers in North America. Unless you want to upgrade to VMAC II, I'd check out Vander Haag's or eBay. There's also a GoECM website I found online, you can either buy one with a lifetime warranty or send yours in to get rebuilt. I don't know how valid or reliable they are though.

Here you go, I managed to find it in eMedia. sb210032.pdf

You're right, I didn't see one in Impact. It may be the early morning brain fog, but do camelback suspensions usually have a transverse torque rod? I can't remember if they do or not.

Current Controlled Rate Shaping. I have a bulletin specifying more I can try to scan here. It will take me a while to do so, busy busy busy.

If you send me the VIN or last 6 of it, I can see what Impact shows your truck having installed. I don't think I've seen a truck without a torque rod, regardless of suspension setup. That might be a case worth taking to Mack, just don't expect them to care. We don't have the Mack that cared about their image anymore.

The WIF sensor could be going bad, especially if it was the bowl type primary filter and was cleaned with brake clean. I saw similar failures in KW T680's; I was new and was taught to clean the bowl with brake clean by the older guys in the shop, turns out that tends to kill the WIF sensor. Live and learn I guess. If it's the bowl type, I think the entire bowl will need to be replaced, I don't think the sensor is separate. You'd want others to tell you more, I can shotgun ideas at you but it would be little more than educated guesses.

I reverse image searched and saw the earliest it was posted was on Reddit in 2019. No info on where it was taken at all.

We have seen a couple reman injectors bad out of the box, but it's not a regular occurrence. I'd price it out to see which one comes out cheaper, just make sure you use a reputable rebuild shop. Our local shop was cheap enough that even after our system marked the price up, it was cheaper than the injector itself.

Sounds like the transmissions are different, as shown by "due to an extra gear in the transmission." These kinds of things tend to happen when critical jobs are rushed. Most of my PTO experience has been with Allison transmissions or REPTO styles, but you have to be very careful and precise when making sure the transmission and PTO are 100% identical. We had one truck come in with a "non-operable PTO" complaint, which was 100% accurate. However, the PTO installed on the truck was geared clockwise, when the intended setup was counter-clockwise. Someone who the customer wouldn't say had ordered the incorrect PTO to start with. Just some friendly advice: remember that rushing blindly into things with the intention to make the process faster most often leads to making the process take longer. I've learned that in the few years I've been in this business, and would recommend everyone follow the same belief. Slow and steady wins the race!

I'll see quite a few of these hauling to and from the feed mill in a nearby town. If you eat at the Cookout in town, you can see some neat old trucks coming by. Other than that specific place I've been, not too many are seen around here. If I'm not wrong, these Freightshakers had the option for Cummins, Cat, and Detroit from the factory, like the Paccar trucks.

Mackpro is right on it. Usually that issue is caused by a faulty controller. Replace the cabin air filter and inspect/replace the control switch, and you should be fine assuming the blower motor itself is fine.

I know my buddy's 7.3 I mentioned needs the glow plug relay replaced, it refuses to cold start below 55° and seems to start hard in the morning when above 55°. No engine light (bulb works), but I haven't been able to confirm by checking the relay itself yet. I'm 90% sure the relay is the cause, I clued in when I turned the key on back in the winter and noticed the Wait to Start light went out as quick as it does any other time. From my time with the same engine just under the T444E badge in church buses, I feel the controller would cycle the plugs longer than that.

I second FJH, the pins on the leaf spring fronts don't hold up very well at all, regardless of whether they were greased or not. If you've got drum brakes, you might have some trouble there; we've got one of our church buses doing similar with a loud clunk in the rear when stiff braking. The slacks don't adjust properly, and while I haven't had a chance to check, I'm willing to bet the s-cam bushings are wallowed out too.

I've done some work on my buddy's 1996 7.3, and have researched more myself because of it. Straight piping it won't hurt unless he dumps it way too close to the engine, and I have to say that even though his was straight piped when he bought it, the engine is still louder than the exhaust! What will drastically reduce the engine's lifespan is any "tune," over-injectors, or whatever else the dipstick does to make it roll coal. I despise these kids with mommy/daddy money ruining diesels to make it blow smoke, it's asinine and ruins good engines. If he wants to make it at least somewhat capable of modern road speeds and acceleration standards, he needs to have a GOOD intercooler installed. No injectors needed, I wouldn't put a bigger turbo on it, just the intercooler. My friend's friend (also an acquaintance of mine lol) has a similar OBS 7.3, and has only had an intercooler installed as a performance mod. Gets good power, better fuel mileage actually, and the engine just runs better having a cooled turbo. If/when your buddy ruins his 7.3, as long as the truck's in good shape, I'd buy it for $100 and slap a 12 valve in it. Or install a Cat 3126 in it like DEBOSS garage on YT did lol.

I don't want to go too far down the political rabbit hole, but I feel I need to say my piece real quick. If there's any conspiracy behind this, I wager that his political opponents could have manipulated and/or paid this individual to attempt this. However, given the absolute lack of skill and proper kit, I doubt this was a conspiracy. I've seen the aftermath pictures of this individual, and he absolutely appeared the type to think he had the ability to "do the world a favor" as he probably thought. He looked like he would have been bullied relentlessly (I've heard rumors he was) in school, as hateful as that sounds. If there's any conspiracy, it would be how inept Trump's security team was. I see the pictures of the lady cowering behind Trump and the other Secret Service; she should have never made it out of an office. Given the head of Secret Service appears to be a DEI pick, and previous attempts to take Trump's Secret Service protection away, I could see that being an under-table interaction. I also don't believe the sniper that ended the shooter was at fault, he seems to have noticed right before the shots were fired, and dialed his gun in and took the shot. If the reports are to be believed, he supposedly shot the kid in the head. Nice shot. Sorry if I come across as a bit hateful, but as someone not much older than the perp, the shooter threw all kindhearted feelings out the window when he took the shot that killed a husband as he protected his family. That piece of trash deserves all the bullet holes he received, and more.