Geoff Weeks

Is this what you are looking for? Not cheap, but quick way out. https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=24898211

Try finding anything for a Gardner or Leyland in this country. Start calling yards, Even if you don't need one, finding out what can be had is money in the bank.ld If it were I, a used head, that can be re-worked, would be something I'd be looking for. It doesn't have to be new or rebuilt, just no cracks and good valves. There are my ways to repair guides and seats can be replaced. I guess it comes from working on old, orphan engines, you 1st look for what is available then go from there. Cracked heads can be repaired, but not cheaply. Rings can be ordered by size and shape, even if full ring sets are not available. Heat the nuts, slit the nuts, there are many ways to go forward. Look at what is important, The nuts aren't as important as the studs, and are easier to replace.

I can only give the following: Depending on if it has factory or aftermarket A/C or not there are close to 1/2 dozen possibility Airsource list 2 for trucks without aftermarket: 1050 is a 5 terminal lever operated switch 1150 is a 5 terminal rotary knob operated switch https://www.amazon.com/AirSource-1050-Toggle-Blower-Switch/dp/B01IB1BOIQ https://www.finditparts.com/products/17065/mei-1150 If it doesn't look like either of those, then I'd need a picture.

You will not know till the head is off. Not much room between the valve and piston at TDC. I have the head of a valve that broke off and planted itself in the piston crown on my wall of shame. Wasn't a Mack but a Leyland 680, which looks an awful lot like a Mack. I hope you get away with just a new valve, but I would be surprised if that is all it took. If you need to get the truck running ASAP, cost be damned, then get a head, have it gone through and a piston and tear into it. If you can wait, then disassemble and see what you need. I've "patched" a lot of engines where parts were not available, but it is never a quick process. If your loosing money every minute the truck is down, then sourceing used parts and new gaskets while they are coming tear the engine down is the way to go. IF the valve hit the injector tip, then you'll need one of those, but you can't tell until the head is off.

If you do take apart the Trico motor, be very careful. Parts are not readily available, as Trico stopped making them in the early 80's. O rings will not be the problem, but the paddle seal and little parts, like the reversing valve may be hard to find. I have two of these motors that came from different trucks. I have not been through them myself, as Sprague HP 100's were the replacement in my trucks for the Trico's and they were easy to source. I like the Trico better, but the parts issue on a truck in service, was enough for me to change while I could. I was going to send off my Trico to Rome for overhaul, but never did as I had plenty of HP-100's and could overhaul them myself, and no problems if something broke as parts or parts units were easy to come by. If you only have the ones for you truck, proceed with caution, one lost or broken small part may leave you with no options. I should add, there is nothing difficult or special about air motors, they are simple devices, but anything without a source of parts can become a big problem, not because of the complexity but the lack of some small piece.

It definitely had a 2nd life as a power unit, but the vertical down outlet of the exhaust points to vehicle use. Most power units like the one I stole the picture of from E bay, have a straight vertical up exh. Any stationary use, I can't fit with the vertical down exhaust. Large fork lift? Airport tug?

OK, I just noticed this is in the fire truck thread. Many Fire trucks used alternators long before they became used in trucks. (I have a 6 volt 100 amp alternator) so lets start with some pictures of what you have. Just to be sure we are on the same page.

Also, assuming it has a Delco generator, any short to ground on the field wire between the reg and generator would "full field" the genny regardless of what the regulator tried to do. So look for frayed insulation on the genny wires.

less than 100 hp, makes it unlikely to be even a yard goat. No air compressor seen, so what was it used for? They bought enough for Herc to cast their name in the manifold. A real mystery?

I'm more curious what Mack put it in?

Does seam to be a Herc. Here is a pick with vertical exh but everything else seams to "line up". I'd say 100% on the ID. Thanks to the poster who first said Herc. https://www.ebay.com/p/1523084881

Got to start by knowing the charging voltage. Voltage reg would be a smaller black box most likely on the firewall. There must be a good connection between the reg and generator and also the ground path between the reg, chassie, body and engine. If the regulator doesn't have a good ground path, it can't compare what the voltage is to what it should be. Some(many heavy duty) regulators are mounted with a rubber mount to protect from rough vibration. They MUST have a ground path to electrically connect the rubber isolated regulator to the chassie. Often it is a thin tab connected to one of the mount screws, but these can either rust or break. If in doubt connect a ground wire between the regulator case and the chassie. I have found the regulators to be extremely reliable and have two that are close to or over 80 years old and still working.

Sorry I'M no help,but to agree it is not a Buda design. Conti was famous for casting a name into manifolds when a mfg bought their engine. I would guess may be Herc did the same? Never saw one like that either. Too bad we don't have Glenn or Mike H to pick their brains.

I think two reasons, One is they had a rep for parts prices being high, I never was on that end of things, so just repaired, and never saw the price of the parts. The real big reason I saw, was they "weren't cool, like a duelly pick-up chassie" Or "I wouldn't be seen dead in that termite head truck". Never mind the fact the cab had more room, they turned tighter, and had things like a engine brake from the factory. I looked to find a reasonable priced used one, but they were all more than I wanted to pay, Still, they were cheaper than other used trucks in their class. The lighter end of trucks never did all that well for sales as cabovers, The Ford C series is about the best known, but GM (or course the Mack N) and IHC cargostar were all low sales when compared to conventionals. Just think how many more Loadstar conventionals are still seen vs, the cabover version of the same (Cargostar). I think these were bought new by large companies, not O/O or small fleet, where the "looks" counted more to the buyer than the practicality.

I had one that drove me mad. It was the tooth gear on the back of the trans (If yours still use that type of speedo). All it was, the yoke nut was a little loose, not enough so you could feel play, just enough that the tooth gear would stop spinning. Drop the driveshaft and hit the nut with a big gun or torque it with a bar. It was weird, you start off the say and the speedo would work fine, then it would slow or cut out. Changed pick=ups, even subbed in another speedo and got the same. Couldn't feel any play in the yoke but just enough not to squeeze the tooth gear between the yoke and bearing.

Book mark "Rome Truck Parts" for those Trico motors. If you need motors or a rebuild they are the only ones that seam to know much about the old Trico's. Because those use air to park (when the button is pushed in) and I don't think you said where it is leaking from, it could be the valve in the motor as well. http://www.rometruckparts.com/

Some engines had a 'stat that is clamped in the upper hose near the engine outlet.

Rule of thumb, again from the late Glenn A, if the shutter thermostat is in the upper tank, it should be 10 deg higher than the engine 'stat if in the lower tank (as some are) it should be the same temp as the engine stat. Your situation sounds like a bad (or missing) engine thermostat, shutters are doing all they can to get the temp up (staying closed)

Speaking of Kris in general, I think my favorite song was Sunday morning coming down, and I loved him in Lonestar, he played evil so well!

do the four ways work front and back with the taillights on also? if not I would guess a bad ground, if so a switch would be where I looked. This is just general advice, I have no info on your model. Just simple checks that will help diagnosis. If the parking light function goes out with the 4 ways, it is a grounding issue, it should go from dim to bright as it flashes.

He is/was an interesting man, lived 3 or more lives in one, from Air force music, film. I wish him well

My '92 Marmon used mostly mechanical 270 sweep gauges, electrical for fuel, gear box temps and originally engine temp. I replaced engine with mechanical. Cable driven tach and speedo. Had to replace the speedo and went with electric off the tailshaft. allowed for easy 2 spd install.ng I think the reason your seeing more and more "electronic" gauge clusters is the ECM is monitoring the same stuff on the SAE data link, using the info to de-rate if a problem is detected. So just simpler to use the data link and electronic gauges. I would prefer the redundancy of separate gauges, but if the ECM is going to de rate or shut down if its sensor is out, you knowing it is the fault isn't going to allow you to override the ECM. one of the many reasons I never had an electronic.

Flat rubber is what I have, I think I still have a set in I-R packaging.

Paul, I mentioned fanning or pumping the brakes on shut down to lower the system pressure, if you notice a fall in the start tank pressure you know you have a leak and can deal with it before you wake in the morning and find the tank empty. Air driers are what the sound like they are, they remove moisture and hold until the purge cycle, then expel it before the next compression cycle. They work by both cooling and slowing the air flow, passing it over a large surface area of beads (AD-2) or metal turnings (AD-4 and -9). When the compressor unloads, the purge valve opens and any pressure in the "can" and the compressor line passes back over the media and collects the moisture there, carrying it out the purge valve. It doesn't seam to me they should work as well as they do, but they do.

I'd have to look in the Bendix book, but compressor duty cycle and that of the drier are low, like 25% max. Any air leak increases the on time. You can increase the compressor displacement or decrease the air usage. On truck compressors often it is only the head that is water cooled, the block is left to air cooling, getting to much heat can pass oil.