Geoff Weeks

On mine, I can put a shut off valve or solenoid on the line from the button or nose of the starter to the big relay valve on the tank, so it will not start without a key. A hidden shut-off in that line can be hidden, and doesn't have to be as air tight as the button as it only "sees" pressure when the button is depressed. My Cummins powered cab-overs used a gas rated solenoid and the original electric start button, the Cat powered Marmon got the air button and cable shut down.

My 3406B Cat has the solenoid removed, air start, cable shut down doesn't need power to start or run. Both Cummins had the fuel solenoid operational, but the power required is minimal. Still have a selection of "buttons" for Cummins pumps and at least one "rebuild kit". Easy to turn up a Cummins pump, but also easy to screw one up if you have no idea what you are doing. Or at least turn one up so it doesn't do damage long term.

Cost wise, at least a few years ago were about the same for 10R20 and 11R22.5 of like quality. Problem come in when you look at availability, every tire shop has many 11R 22.5, most decent 10R20's would have to be ordered in, along with a tube. I ran both OTR, and finely started phasing tubetypes out because of the availability problem..

ever get your tires sorted out?

May be just a "trick of the picture" but the picture of it on the road, looks to be a different truck than the pic's of it stationary. 1 spoke vs. disk wheels. 2: hood OAL 3: intake pipe.

I saw one in a generator as I remember, and heard they did well in that application. Also if A-C had good support in your area, it helped. In trucks going all over the place it could be hard to find a dealer to work on them. A third problem was A-C was "on the ropes" or near to it, and couldn't invest in expanding the network. IIRC Glenn said that they were mostly sold and serviced by Freightliner, so they got put in more of those than the other brands. I remember the adverts back in the day.

They were an updated Buda 844, and like the Buda they were based on, put out high Hp but would bankrupt you with repairs. Added to that, there wasn't the dealer network to support them.

Three spoke used to be common on trailers, but that is the 1st I've seen on a drive axle. There were some aluminum spokes made,never seen them in person. I wonder if those were aluminum?

Is it possible that they are mixing up Radial and Tubeless? I have run into that before, people who see radial and thing it must be tubeless, and if they see bias ply think it must be tube type. Both are false assumptions You can have bias tubeless and radial tube type. I have a whole set of tube type radials.

The above is from Winda-BOTO's tire specs. The 12.00R24 is TT (Tube Type) it would say TL (tubeless) in the 3rd column if it were tubeless. Either your tire supplier has no idea what they are talking about, or they are ordering 12x 24.5 (I don't think there is even a tire that size) tubeless which are not the same. If they can't read a tire catalog or don't know the difference, it is time to find a dealer that knows their trade. Please Have them show you, so your can show me, where they are finding tubeless 12R24 tires! To the best of my knowledge there are no tubeless 24" tires made for highway service.

Back in the 90"s company I hauled for took down a 200 ton bridge crane built in 1926, Hauled back to the Mfg and it was shortened and re installed in Norfolk & Southern yard . It was all rivet construction. Built like railroad rolling stock. Big Fishbelly girders.

I did also, but was not going to say something is impossible in another country, in another part of the world. Here, at least, it is permissible to put a tube in a tubeless tire but not the other way around. Tubes are often used in tubeless tires on motorcycles and older sports cars with true spoke wheels. Until recently, 24 TT were the main tire used in the middle east, down under and many other places around the world. Were only popular in the eastern seaboard around NY/NJ where the added weight could be utilized. About 10 years ago, I saw a brand new trailer being delivered with 24" TT hub pilot wheels on it. Must have been going to a mine somewhere.

On the spec sheet those are listed as TT or tube type. They still will not install them?

I can see why you say that. However I think if I blow the pic up I can detect the wrap around windshield of a "drivers Cab" Autocar.

I'm interested in what Cruiseliner is finding in 24" tubeless? Some military 20" can be used with a tube or a tubeless on a bolt together rim with an O ring seal at the parting line. However I can find no 24" tires like that.

Heat and pressure are on the top of the piston longer at lower speed. Simple as that. When the volume increases (piston goes down) temp drops. ( gas law) since we're talking about an enclosed space, it comes down to volume increase, pressure decrease= temp decrease. Time at peak pressure/peak temp is less. At low speed the pressure rises faster than the piston can move, resulting in high pressure and heat on the piston. If you are in the operating range of the engine egt shouldn't be high.

Not if it is on spokes, 24" tube type is all that will go on those. If you have or can find a spec sheet on those 24" tubeless or a link to them on the .net I'd be interested in looking them over. https://s7d1.scene7.com/is/content/bridgestone/Bridgestone-Truck-Tire-DataBookpdf-1 For example, the above tire data book lists 11R24 and 12R24 but they are tube type for"flat based rims". I can find no data on tubeless 24" truck tires on the .net.

Once I was pulling over the Big Horn mts in Wyoming, 45 min foot to the floor, 25 mph and never let up, try doing that, "controlling" the pyro with your foot! Then I had to come down the other side, jake a popping the whole way down.

Almost all tire failures are casing failure, not cap failures. I've had them on virgin casing and on capped casings. In all my time I have had ONE cap failure, it threw a 4x6" section of tread off the casing. Just about all aircraft are landing on capped tires. Casing failure can be caused by abuse, running low on air, over loaded, and yes time. I used to get three tread lives off my casing, one virgin, and two caps. A few times I tried 3 caps (4 total) but found they would fail prematurely and it wasn't worth it. If I didn't get three full treads worth of life, I felt cheated and wouldn't use that tire again. I had one casing blow apart sitting still in the yard, and it was a virgin casing!

I'd be VERY surprised you can buy 24 tubeless truck tires. You can buy 24.5" tubeless truck tires, they are NOT the same, and do NOT go on the same rims. What holds the lock ring on a tube type lock ring wheel, is the bead going over and pushing the lock ring deeper in the groove. Even if you got the 24.5" tire with a tube on it, on a 24" lock ring wheel, the bead diameter is half an inch too large, There may be some off road tires that are made in 24" sizes that I guess could be tubeless, but I know of no on road tubeless 24" tires, only tube type.

My experience is different, if the pump is set too high, by the time you see it on the pyro and back out, the heat is already in the engine, and you have to keep backing out to try and keep the heat down. So you start up the hill, pyro and temp start to rise, and you have to keep backing down until you are below where you would be if you didn't over-fuel from the get-go. The idea of limiting to a safe level, is you don't get the heat into the engine to begin with. The only time the correct setting of the pump to begin with struggles is at high altitude, 10,000'+ Playing with pick-up is different than pulling with a load.

I stand to be corrected, but I don't believe the B came with a title, I don't know about the CH frame. I've only bought one truck on a Bill of Sale, and had that notarized and is no closer to being on the road than the day I bought it. For me, it has to be a special case to buy without a title. The seller has the motivation to look for the title, and the ability to apply for a replacement title. I my case it was a very rare truck and incomplete. It had been in a yard that had been closed for 40 years and the owner died. Not too many Dart oil field trucks survive, and most are parked in a state of decay in a museum outdoors somewhere. I took a chance I could register it when the time came.

The older Cat's anyway, were good engines, but when they broke they broke you with them. 855 Cummins were cheap and easy to work on. My two Cabovers had Cummins 855 in them. Both my Cat and my Cummins went well beyond 1m between overhauls, when under my care. My 1st truck I bought at 500K and ran it until 1.5m before overhaul.

I never had a Cat with the brakesaver, I have one 3406 powered tractor (Marmon), I remember them prone to oil and air leaks, and heavy. They used engine oil in a turbine type housing, with an air operated valve directing oil into it. Anytime you had to re-seal the rear engine housing, it was a big job. BTW anybody who says "Cat's don't leak oil" are lying. Every engine has it problem points.

The two tractors I had that didn't have them, and were added in the 90's was because (mostly) OW/OD permit loads in some states required some form of "aux braking" when weights got up there. Some of the guys I ran with had Cat brakesavers and Jakes both. he Brakesaver was a heavy, complex option, but in heavy haul, weight didn't matter much. One of my cabover's weight 22500 alone.