Joey Mack

the firewall selenoid has 3 large wires on one post and 1 larger wire by it self. put a test light on the large single wire post, it should not be lit at this time... turn the key to start and then the light will light, if not, check the little wire for the key signal. if its a 4 post check the small ground post wire for a good ground to the cab. most of them are 3 pin selenoids that are self grounding. if still no power on the single big wire after this test, R+R the selenoid.. jojo

Man.... there's so many stupid things that happen, that we wouldn't think about at first.... then after a ton of time and work... you find a soda bottle cap liner in the tank,.. Hell,,, one time on an E-7, I had cut open an oil filter to check engine health. it was full of silver flakes... i dug into it all day, drained the engine oil through a strainer, and there a few clear plastic discs in the strainer... it was oil bottle cap seals, and the silver coating made it to the filters... It totally fooled me to thinking I had metal wearing in the engine.... I totally get it..... jojo

Just for kicks carefully put air pressure in the tank with a blowgun and a rag to cover the filler hole, have a buddy look for fuel leaks starting with tank lines to the primary filter. I wonder if you are sucking air... i guess you havent changed the old fuel filters. also look in the fuel tanks for debris. I have found ; grass, sticks left by people checking the fuel level, and the twig broke, also, I have found electrical tape in the tanks. Many years ago an old timer told that, fired employees would drop a small roll of electrical tape in the tanks, it just loosens up and unrolls... then gets sucked up. check the simple things first. Good luck, Jojo

Drop the pan,,, and look up! you'll find it.... jojo

Every-so-often..... I find deep scratches on the rocker shafts.. where the rockers pivot.. This causes a squeak or chirping sound.... Jojo

make sure the champher in the EUP bore is spotless before going back in..

Sweet, thanks again... The last '90 E-7 I built, was 90 percent P.A.I. it's been 8 months, still gettin it done... jojo

air dryer and D-2 governor at the same time... Next time i look at a midland pump issue, I will look into repair kits. Thanks rob...

John the fuel jumper is just 7 little pieces. Yes mack still sells the correct parts for this... For now:) jojo

Yes and bolt right in,, just have to make new coolant hoses, and re-locate intake and output pipes based on application. I suggest buyin the offset intake nipple for the Bendix.. You can use this to get the right part if needed... CH613/118032... Thats one of my old trucks... I have gotten remans from outside truck parts vendors for under $400.00...Jojo

Heck, I forgot about midlands. yes they are good as well..

I always liked the Bendix Tu-Flow compressors better than those wabco"s..

Bingo!

That's what I thought too. That's why I used 5 degrees as an example... Now I wish I had done a few dozen more of these in the past... He's getting good help here... jojo

You guys kick ass... Thanks for the laughs, and the truth..

The hose with the hole in it, is the intake, the larger steel pipe is the output. the 2 #6 J.I.C. hoses is coolant flow , in-and-out, the 1/4" line is the signal line for the governor...

If you are asking me..... what I mean is the output of the turbo is called the compressor side, in some terms... I also think his air comp. intake goes around the back of the head to the bottom of the rear of the intake manifold. i didnt see where it went to the elbow after the air filter... thank you, jojo

Yes it is......

I just noticed your picture. I've been to the top of Mt. Washington twice.. I went up on a motorcycle once, it was great!. Jojo

is there oil on the compressor side of the turbo? (the outlet)

I'm glad you saw this Glenn... I tried to help without steering him the wrong way. jojo

Just type "Kent Moore J 37077-1" and it will come up... good luck..

I found this tool for sale. $430.00... I will keep looking... none on E-Bay right now.. Jojo

The light basically times the pump for removal, bench timing, and installation. so if the light indicates the pump is timed and you bolt it to the engine that is timed as well, in theory, they should be timed. I know you know that, just saying.

this is the tool.. #37077. I was told once that you dont need this tool, you can just look in the hole for the timing marks (teeth). I have never done that, so therefore I am not comfy with it. Mabey someone else can shed some light. To me, inj. timing is criticle, so I leave out as much room for error as possible, and use this tool.. I've yet to burn up an engine or build a wimpy one, just saying...Jojo