Joey Mack

top triangular panel on the dash,,, under the C.B. jojo

the injection pump may be the issue, myself.... I would run the rack, then drive it to duplicate the problem, if it's still there after that, I use a temperature gun to see if there is a big difference in exhaust port temps... im talking 30+ degrees difference. you can also crack fuel lines individually to see if the engine changes sound. As you listen, if a cylinder doesnt react like the others, then ... good chance you have isolated the problem/symptom... Jojo

good to see you Dave.... Jojo🤗 Thanks for the laugh's....

sounds like programming... the governor can be set to "all-speed" and it should perk up the throttle response, you have a great truck and the mileage is hard to believe... check fuel pressure and the condition of the fuel lines... at that age the lines are probably hard as a rock and need to be replaced... have you installed fresh fuel filters? lot's of Q's.... jojo

looks like you may need to replace the braided lines... they may have broken inside and created a blockage/restriction... by the way, everything but free government money is on back order. Keep it in mind for future repairs... I had to add 6 weeks to an engine that i'm building in my shop... in the olden days, (2-4 years ago) it would have been done by now.... keep in touch... Jojo

did you fit the pin into the axle beam to check for wear, before assembly? jojo

look at the back of the switch ... some of these switches have 3 post's on them, 'common' ... 'normally open'....'normally closed' move the wire eyelet to NC, ... jojo

there are grounds on the frame behind the left steer tire. they go to the block, in front of the starter. there should be a ground breaker on the firewall next to the starter relay, it's black and about 2" in diameter. the EECU fuse # is 40, it's in the epdm/fuse box that is next to the steering shaft under the hood... make sure it's clean and tightly in the socket... jojo

check all the engine grounds...... is the eecu secured? i just put one of these together and cranked it today.... lots of sensors.. jojo

you have timing code and engine brake code and comm. codes... do you have oil in the EECU plug? also,, what year and engine please. I assume 04-06 aset c engine.... jojo

keep an eye on the spring leaves, as you use it,, its a good set up, but leaves can break.. im not full of knowlegde but have made a few repairs, camel back is better but, that is opinion/bias based on my part... like any supspension , keep it as 'new' as you can afford.... jojo

just adding to my post here,, not sure if you are familiar with how this tranny as well as others are built.... so, if the bell housing runs loose, it stresses the in-put shaft, which puts stress on the pilot bearing, clutch discs, and input and spigot bearing on the tranny input shaft, it can also put an angle ( if wear is excessive) on the input gear(4th/9th gear), which will be noisy. The next gear in the input hole is (5th/10th). if you get this far, pull the sliding clutch out and make sure the clutching teeth have a straight edge on the end, if the teeth are diamond shaped, replace it. a lot of times the speed gears will survive and can be re-used... there will be more comments coming on this, youre in good hands, Jojo

OK... now new info..... the bell housing has a flange around it... if the tranny has run loose, it wears the flange, and affects the alignment of the tranny input shaft... it's real.... The problem is that youre tranny has an integrated bell housing, un-like an Eaton. I've been here... you will pay hell to keep the tranny in-line, if the holes and flange are wollered out... the bolts are 10mmx1.50 .torque to 70+ I have installed helicoils.. it helps but the flange is the key for alignment... sorry for this bad news... I hope it's not youre problem... Jojo

BTW.. that tranny may have an oil pump, but it truly splash lube.. This issue, has a lot of options for the problem. we will get there.... 👍 jojo

that tranny was born with 75/90 synthetic.... 50 is for eatons... hell, have you checked the u-joints.? and , yes... check the bolts on the bell housing.

Fuel Pressure........................... 80- 100 PSI. jojo

4th/5th....9th/10. are the same gears...

just a thought... check the valve lash..... seem's odd,, how long has it been sitting? how long have you had the truck, and what do you know about repair history? That engine is a tough S.O.B. I saw one run with a rod through the block, it loaded itself on and off the trailer to the shop... ether is a bad tool/drug if abused.... ok, look forward to the fix for this one.. Go E-6!! jojo

you got this, if you have a picture of the area you want to use, can you post it? im curious... if not.... thats ok.. jojo

Man... that is awesome!!! Go Dog!!!!

Amen!!

yes the CTP.... forgot that chassis...

truth is, ive set a few at around 1200 due to tooling and room to work... they hold good,,, I've even used a good strong 1" tire gun to set them, of course it was bolted down... and not in the rear end banging against bevel gear,. the high torque resembles the pre-load needed to set the gears in place, as well as holding the outer power divider cam in place... jojo

1500lbft

when you pull the front out, you have the bevel pinion.. the bevel gear is still in the housing on the spur shaft. the top hat cover on the other side is how to get to the bevel gear... they are a matched set and need to be pre-loaded and measured for back lash and tooth pattern... yes you can sort-of milk it, without checking backlash and tooth pattern on the bull gear, but, it's really not the right way to build a lasting carrier. you will also see measurements scribed into the gears... when you buy a new gear SET there will be measurements on them as well.. you can do the math using both measurements to 'roughly' figure the shim pack needed... Mack rears need attention from the inside out to get them right.... just saying... joey