Joey Mack

so to test the sensors, if you have the chart with the ohms readings, you can test them with a DVOM.. another thing you can do is... pull the temp sensor out, get a friend to watch the gauge, and hold a lit bic lighter on the brass end and have youre friend tell you if the temp gauge rises....jojo

here is a sample i found on the web..

Also, check to see that the piston under the brake pedal isn't sticking, which can allow air to activate the brake light switch. Take it apart if you can, they tend to get corroated because of what fall's off the sole's of your boot's. try to clean the bore and emory cloth the piston, if the rubber boot is junk, replace it, coat the side of the piston with anti seize and put it back together and re-test... jojo

I think that switch is on the treadle valve under the floor pan.. when the pedal is pressed, it closes the circuit and lights the brake lights. 10 PSI is enough... you can test the circuit by unplugging the terminals and crossing them, brake lights should be lit at this time... jojo

There are a lot of smart guys on here, that can help you. If you need to P.M. me, please do and include youre brothers phone number and mabey I can help him.. jojo

ok, the engine should be an E-6 4 valve.. The wiring diagrams are basically, R/RD/RW .. very similar if not identical. what electrical issues is he trying to fix.? The truck is pretty simple compared to todays truck's.

I believe what you are looking for is printed in individual books, I assume you want all you can find, what year is youre RW?.... 613 or 713? what tranny? and rears, probably Mack 92/93 series... I have a lot of books (not for sale) and I can show you the book number, so you can search the Web... jojo

Every county in our great country needs to be a Trump supporter. jojo

Hey R.E.D. I bet there was a lot of excitement in youre area when President Trump came to town. I hope I get a chance to see him. I expect him to come to Charlotte someday soon.. jojo

I guess it's been a while.. I was a bit slower, back then. I would be done during the second day, and then install it. So true about team effort and cooperation.. The last Dealer I worked at, had guys that would intentionally slow my process down. The head parts guy didnt like me because I come from the Northern United states, and now i'm in the South, doing a good job.. so he would delay or cancel my parts orders. So I guess, for me, I was around too much drama to see what real teamwork looks like... I still buy parts there, because they are 6 miles from my home, and that same guy still delays my orders.... so for the last few years, I stand in the lobby and call the Mack competitor, (that is 30 miles away) put them on speaker phone and see what kind of of price and service I can get for my customer... That really chap's his a$$... Anyway, I appreciate your comments.. Jojo

Well said...!!

So true, 'F'.. I'm not bragging, but the truth is, that I have customers who trust me more than normal, when it comes to working on their money makers. They would rather hear the how I honestly feel about their truck's and my thought's on the current repair's needed, and if it's a job I cant do, they thank me for not taking them for a ride... I wish I had the 'Berries' to open up a shop of my own, but i'm scared too, and I don't know who would want to do this hard work. So finding a few guy's to work for me will be tough.. Maybe if I was 20 years younger, with the knowledge I have now, it would be a different story. well i think i'm rambling now,,, c'ya Jojo

That is great... the fastest we can get one built is 3 days, It's a good rebuild, and worth waiting for... I used to be a 'Mack' tranny and rear end builder many years ago, but Volvo made it a lost art, with the price and warranty of the unit's. for example, when doing a tranny.... if one mating gear set had to be replaced, it instantly made the re-build cost much more than a re-man, or even a "Re-Mack" unit.... Jojo

And how the Hell did you get a rear end job done in a day? Did you have a rear end in your parts room? No way someone built a rear end in one day, anyway, Great job.... Jojo

which did you fix? just curious. I put one in a '99 Granite last summer, (front),, 4 years ago I did the rear one in the same truck.. they had to weld the crack in the 'Banjo housing'.. anyway, just curious... jojo

Yes sir !!! I'm watching live on NEWSMAX , I'm in central N.C. God Almighty, I Miss him as our President !! Jojo

Fuel crossover line... D-Day is right... jojo

I'm sorry,, I know what you mean... I left Mack 3 + 1/2 years ago and went back to work for myself.. I'm one guy, and the Small Dealership I left, does as much business as I do, and some days when I go there for parts, there may only be 1 truck in the yard and guys are sent home early to save labor.. Many people see the issues and shop for good shops' Jojo

you can try it.. is all i can say... where is the closest Mack dealer?

The touch pad can be replaced. its plug in, and then a learn data re-set can be done. do you have PTT and a Vocomm box to do the programming? jojo

if you live in a cold climate you may be ok to drive for bit until the part gets here, but you have to get it fixed. are you not able to solder the harness back together, or solder in plugs so you can unplug it when other repairs need to be done? and you should look real close at the tensioner pulleys, to be sure they didnt cause the belt to walk off the pulley, and also check all other pulleys for movement that could cause the belt to come off. If the belt snapped, that tells me that the hood doesnt get opened much for inspection, you may want to start there first, and make sure pre-trip inspections are getting done.. the fan clutch you are about to buy is very expensive. good luck, Jojo

Have you looked at the left front where the large wire harness comes from the cab and bends around the the pivot point. I have made many repairs to wires there due to chaffing. MR's/LE's have a pretty fat wire harness in front. I can't remember it in detail like I used too. I havent worked on an MR in a few years. I always thought of these trucks as a wiring nightmare. I remember opening the the center console and krindging. Best of luck, Jojo

the manifolds are different where they bolt up, the E-6 (4 valve) is thicker, and the studs are around 5" long, the E-7 studs are around 3" long.. but I beleive the ports are the same, the gaskets look similar but the E-6 (4 valve)gaskets have 4 bolt holes instead of 2. Being truck specific, does make sense, and harder to get what I need.. the center section P/N is 104GC5124.. Jojo

Well Joe. now I'm curious.. Jojo