Joey Mack

I just learned that the unloader is remote and not in the compressor head... jojo

Hello Vlad, I just went to my library. The 2080B looks to have a synchro in the back box. I posted the shift pattern and the pic with my finger, is me pointing to the synchro. I posted pics of the 2080 just to show the difference. the picture with all the books is also in my library. I have 3 sets of 200 series books, and 2 sets of 300 series books, as well as Mack rears, drive shaft and many others... I will post any info that I can to help you in the future. jojo

'V' I recieved a PM on this topic, and thought I should copy + paste what I wrote back, so that others could see how to dissect the doghouse.. Thank you for the respect, Jojo

If you have trouble reaching in there to get the plugs, you can pull the cut out rubber section where the shift would be and pull the pan out, more 10mm headed bolts. I do it because I cant get my hands in there real good... jojo

Ok.. all of the lower panels are linked.. you need a T-27 torx bit, and a 10mm chrome socket, preferably 1/4" drive, and a small can for the 20+ screws you are about to remove. I use a small snap-on battery gun to speed this along.. remove the chrome torks screws in the lower steering column cover (3 ea.)... then remove the panels around the pedals, then go to the pass. side and remove the big square panel. now you can remove the side panels around the doghouse. then the front panel. then you will see 2 metal brackets, one on each side of the dog house, and a blanket covering the doghouse panel. remove the right bracket, then you can remove the blanket without tearing it... (It may already be torn).. now you will see metal doghouse cover, it has about (12) 10mm headed bolts, remove them. there is a row of bolts along the bottom edge, press down on the rubber floor mat to expose them. the cover is glued in place, so a small pry bar may be needed to get it out. now you will see the back of the valve cover, head and engine.. there are 4 plugs that are the same. Cam sensor, Crank sensor, EGR valve and the 7th injector. The cam sensor is in the right side rear corner, its hiding back there, the crank sensor is at the top of the flywheel housing, it too is hiding.. Swap the plugs, and crank the truck. if it fires right up, you got it. run it up to Op. Temp to check it out. if its good.. put it back together... jojo

I guess im too late... great selection... jojo

if you havent pulled the cover before, let me know, i will walk you through it... 30 minute job.. jojo

pull the dog house cover and switch the cam sensor plug with the flywheel sensor plug.. they are the same type.. If the truck runs good but sounds rattly that is probably what it is. I have been there before.. jojo

I would love to see pic's.. I just recieved a Midliner book today. I want to fill my cabinet with Mack books.. jojo

this is interesting... I have wondered what was done if an MP head was machined.. Because of the cam gear meshing in the back of the engine.. There is only .004" backlash allowed. so how would you account for that? thicker head gasket? I dont know, seems to me a new head would be the answer.. what do you think? jojo

You put in a hell of an effort.. Been where you are a few times.. Good luck... Jojo

Blacky,, you are responding to a 6 year old post.... what is your issue? To start, get a friend to look at the VGT actuator on the turbo. Then crank the truck and build up air pressure, you should see the actuator move, If not, got to the filter that is at the bottom of the engine on the left side in front of the starter... that little filter is for the turbo, and you need to be sure air pressure is there,,.. there is a small knob on the air lines at the fire wall near the steering column/shaft, it is the supply to the VGT controller.. jojo

Yes JoeH it sure does... seen it a few times. Tappy, I literally bought a 2 camera security system from harbor frieght, and mounted it under the hood with one of thier cheap ass flash lights using their zipties, to watch the EGR valve on a series 60 14 liter detroit, to check EGR operation..... It worked!! I could watch the EGR valve operate as I drove the truck... I had the wires run into the cab, hooked the little screen to an inverter that plugged into the cig lighter plug, and away I went.. Jojo

373449358661 Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. (E-Bay) this is a Mack book you may want to own.. $23.00 jojo

Just to clarify, I meant the hand held gauge.. sorry... if there is a difference in boost readings from the dash gauge and the hand held gauge, then I would check the sensor.. and I see I posted that my test hose is 12 inches long, I meant 12 feet.. sorry again... sometimes I type too fast.. jojo

Not sure what the negative is here.. Git 'r done.... Jojo

if youre gauge shows proper boost, then I would look at the sensor and the wiring.. these EECU's are very sensitive and also piece's of SH!T... jojo

ok... so.... is the boost issue, something you are seeing on a dash gauge? or is it in a test screen on a computer? may I suggest putting a pressure gauge into the intake manifold. I believe there is a small square headed plug in the intake manifold. install a long hose there with a gauge on the other end and take it in the cab with you and go for a drive.. I have one made up with a 12" hose so I can do just that.... jojo

It's all good.. There are some really smart people here.. I feel like Vlad from Russia will know the answers, and Glenn, Hell there's too many to list.. theres a bunch from Canada too... you'll see.... jojo

This is on an '87 superliner, behind the right steer tire... jojo

unfortunately, I have little to no knowledge on this model, just know where it is on newer Macks

I did see that he has a passion for Asian food... His favorite dish is : Cream of Sum Yung Gy. and a Poo Poo Platter is alway's a hit. jojo

thats where I buy my mack tools

oop's...

yes. as long as it seals to the coolant filler neck.. the fluid will change color if exhaust is detected.. yellow or purple.. just follow the directions... jojo