Joey Mack

Ok.. yep ,he will know. He should be here soon. I cant tell you how many times I shifted an Eaton 9spd Like a 10spd by accident, and it was fine.. Hell, what do I know? 😆

13 spd.. my second guess. 😁 im curious... if it had a 13 spd shift knob, could it be used as such ? The Mack 2130/2180 is the same but the shift knob makes the difference.. years ago we called it a $65.00 upgrade to go to 18 spd. That was the cost of the shift knob with the gray splitter lever... if you took the shift knob apart, you could trim the red lever to work on the low side, if I remember correctly, seems like I have done that before somewhere..... GW? I expect a correction...

Too bad i didnt see this post hours ago. I may have been able to look at our set up and post pictures..

She's safe.....

It looks like an 8 LL

If he posts the engine he has, theres a good chance i have the charts.

I thought I would post these to help you know the ratios.

i'm with you GW... I used to be a bit impatient, only to find out they are working, or not near the truck for days or weeks.. anyway... I get it..

Mine was a 4500. Nope, wont win any races.

Looks like an Isuzu NQR HD. I loved my NPR Diesel..

The small carport is Terri's mower shed.. she does the grass cutting, so her 'hweed hwacker' and zero turn mower is in there along with her plant pots and gardening tools..

Im glad you are trouble shooting and not throwing parts at it.. Good deal.. Jojo

I have 2 other carports..

Oh hell i should take a picture of my carport city/shop..

car port companies sell the braces individually, you will need to measure the width of the square tubes. ie: 2'' or 2 1/2"

no to the ceramic lifters. Without having a crystal ball, I cant say how long the current lifters will last. When your engine was born, the lifters had an issue where they would stop rolling due to a flat spot developing on the roller axle. they are brass. this caused the roller to stop turning and therefore it would damage the cam. With that said.... you have some food for thought on replacing the cam and lifters, or maybe just the lifters. If you do remove the cam gear, keep in mind you have an offset cam key, and its installation direction. For your HP. the white painted end faces forward. As far as PAI engine kits, I have built at least 10 complete builds and used many parts kits. They do a great job. I just talked to a guy whos E-7 Mechanical engine I did 6 years ago, and he is still running good. I have some out there that are older then that... Keep in touch.

Ouch. I think the book calls for a 1 mm. bead of RTV. Good luck..

I have been intrigued by this thread. Those short braces on the inside corners of the rafters as well as the braces at the peak are all secured with 1 screw on each side.. 1 screw allows pivot... if those braces had 2 screws spaced apart as far as the assembly would allow it would stiffen it. Each brace needs 8 screws installed. 2 on each side at both ends... yes the screws are small, but multiple screws will tighten it up.. and you will be able to keep your clearence on the gable ends without having braces or cables in the way of tall vehicles seeking shelter.

Mark.. it is a good paint, but I am not a pro painter, the cans are taller and heavier, it works for us... i think they are around $12+ per can.. still high,,,, but I bought 2,, $5 cans of Krylon and used them both on a toy, and still had crappy coverage.. I should have just bought MRO Safety Yellow...

Yep...

Without a shim, the bead goes on the shelf. You need to shoot straight when inserting the liner so you dont smudge the bead of RTV with the end of the liner. Yes to putting the shim on the liner . Zero chance of pinching it.

I put a narrow bead on the liner and on the shelf. NARROW.... you dont want the RTV to not allow a good liner seat. I also recommend taking a small amount off the shelves with a counter bore cutter, unless you are happy with the depth mic readings at 4 points in each bore