Joey Mack

I dont know GW,, havent neede to know .. They were my go-to for sleds and dirt bike parts..

Something just hit me when I went out to my Amazon Box to get an exhaust pipe I ordered 3 days ago.... 40 years ago I used to order parts for my snowmobiles, dirt bikes, and My Beetle, 69nCamaro and so on.... from catalogues, like J.C. Whitney, Dennis Kirk, and Summit racing for example. We had to fill out the order form and mail a check, then wait 4-6 weeks for delivery... God forbid, if the parts were wrong, then it was another 6 weeks to get resolved.. I cant imagin doing what i'm doing to Sanford, if I had to wait 4-6 weeks for parts today... I guess the interweb and online buying really is a good thing.. when I remember what I used to do.

BTW. You were spot on about the sludges and the pivoting oil pickup.. Too bad We cant give multiple solution awards on a single topic.. You would get them on this one...

GW... as far as the starter goes. I am going to put it together with the parts I have. If it fails, im out $145.00. Im willing to try, and I will post the results. I am also looking for the correct coils. The rest of my new kit is good.

I dropped the oil pan. 1/2'' of sludges, probably why the oil pressure was low, the pick up made a dent in the sluge.. I blasted the pan but old age reveals some small pitting on the outside. I'm good with it. Primed and painted it and the bolts.

I took a closer look at my starter. Yes the old coils had 2 screws to attach to 2 brushes. But those 2 brushes have a jumper wire. Now I'm thinking I can use what I bought because of the jumper. those 2 brushes are 180 degrees from each other.

I expect his to be air over air dump system, with a QR-1 valve after the protection valve, and piloted by an air switch.

At the tank would need a pressure protection valve, something like 80 PSI.

Is the switch connected to a dump valve on the frame or the air tank?

Mine has 2 pairs of coils each with its own screws for the coils

No GW. All 4 are tied together. Only 1 hole

You are correct. It is a concern of mine. I do not know what the effect will be. I was also wondering how I would hook it up, do i run a jumper for the brushes? Or do I box it up and return it ?

Yeah, your good... welcome to the Dog Park...

Yes Paul , that is what I am looking to do. I have very good cables and terminals. My goal is reduce the heat from amp draw.. thanks bud....

Be fore i started with the City.. The policy was, if you didnt take 'The Jab' and you got the Kung Flu, you would not get sick pay... F'n Progressives.... Not sure what todays policy is...

Another thought I have is to use my silver solder, then buy a 12 volt battery that has amps that compare to the correct 6 volt battery. However, I dont know what that amperage is... Go figure......

got it.. yes it is tight and the strap may not bend enough to allow the stup to be installed with its insulators... I will use my silver solder and propane torch on a practice piece 1st. If it is not hot enough I will get a MAP GAS cyl.

Thanks GW.. how about , I line it up in mock up, mark it and take it to a jewler and pay him to weld it ??

Ok... so I was also thinking about drilling a hole in the windings strap and the center of the power stud and tapping it to accept a small bolt, then soldering it... Thoughts ??

I have solder with silver, and a small propane torch. Will my brazing tip be better ?

I have all of those solders.. I just need to pick the one that wont melt when I crank the engine, on a day when it starts hard... 🍻

Speaking of King Fuacci.... He sure is silent about the Rat Sh!T virus that is slowly infecting people. Funny how all the states that have infected people encircle the lower 48... anyway, its Friday eve.. Have a good one.....

Yes Bob, I guess I can go to You Tube University. I prefer the Goeff Weeks Vocational Technical Institute when it comes to my KB-7...

Silver solder ? I will buy some. I have a common solder, but dont know what it is made of.

So here is my new field kit. No instructions with it. My guess is I have to weld the copper tab to the back of the power stud. Will solder withstand the amps, or will it melt ? I do have lead on hand if that is what I need.