67RModel

I went onto Muncie’s website. Using their PTO builder they show at least 12 different PTOs available for the Mack TRL107 transmission. Left or right side opening. Tons of options. They even offer them in cable shift electric or air shift models and reversible models. Divorced or coupled….. https://www.munciepower.com

Already have. like everything they are an insane price now. Was hoping to find a set in a salvage yard if I do end up making the switch.

The actual objective here is just about entirely the cosmetics of a wider tire. Actually its a very stupid endeavor to pursue considering the initial cost of new/used 22.5 hubs, seals, possibly bearings, 9.00x22.5" dayton wheels (almost non existent), and new 315 22.5 tires. Plus the continued cost of replacing 315 tires vs 11R24.5 tires. If you look at the close up image of the front wheel area of my truck you can see it looks kind of silly since the wheels are set so far in (or the fender so far out). A 12R/24.5 is only 0.2" wider than an 11R24.5 but about 1.5" taller. A 315 is about 1.5" wider than an 11R24.5 tire. I'm guessing the rubber fender extensions create or compound the appearance problem. I considered taking them off but I don't think I have ever seen an RD without them. I should probably just forget about it and leave the money in my pocket....lol

Sounds like they owe you an engine. I mean correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like the engine failed as a result of bad workmanship. There is not really enough context here to determine who fixed the engine and/or who ran the engine to failure??? What happens when an injector cup fail(s)? I truly don't know. Does fuel get pushed into the coolant and cause the engine to overheat or does coolant get into the cylinders and wash the oil off making its way into the oil? I'm guessing fuel gets pushed into the coolant since it at a much higher pressure. But it sounds like you have bearing failure which would indicate the oil was compromised.

I am just seeing this now. I have the same transmission in my 67 R model. Straight 5 speed. Direct in 5th. I bought it as a dump truck. There was a PTO / divorced hydraulic pump (old style) with a small drive shaft connecting the two. I removed the dump body and pump.....long scrapped. The PTO is still hanging off the side of the transmission. I have no use for it. I can remove it and send it to you if you want it but like I said its the old style and you want the newer style coupled unit. Either way I have a PTO for that trans. Not sue of the tooth count on the PTO gear. My guess is it would be fine for a hydraulic winch. Depending on what brand/type of PTO it is usually the drive gear can be removed and changed to achieve different running speeds of the PTO.

SimpleTire.com has two models of 11/22. A Sumitomo ST508 all position for $752/each and an MRF brand (Chinese I think?) lug type tire for $480/each. I'm sure they are cheaper online but then you probably get raked over the coals on shipping 10 of these monsters. I would just check with a local commercial tire shop first.

I'm sure this was announced on TV news. I don't know since I don't watch but maybe it wasn't?? Incase it wasn't, the US Senate has released its final report on the origins of Covid19. Report comes from the BIPARTISAN Health, Education, Labor, & Pensions Committee. It says what most sane people thought the whole time: Covid 19 was most likely leaked from the Chinese Wuhan Laboratory of Virology........ Surprise. Surprise. The Yahoo news link summarizes the report as well as provides a bunch of other good information relating to how this was suppressed throughout the pandemic. The actual senate report from Senate.gov is also linked if you want to actually read it. Its really very sad that everyone who said this back in early 2020 from the President to highly credentialed scientists were silenced and called conspiracy theorists. https://www.yahoo.com/news/no-one-believed-covid-wuhan-204950096.html https://www.help.senate.gov/imo/media/doc/report_an_analysis_of_the_origins_of_covid-19_102722.pdf

So I guess to recap, weight ratings aside, since I have 11R24.5 tubeless tires and wheels on my front spokes I would need to seek out the smaller spokes that will fit my front axle spindle and bearing sizes. The smaller spokes meant for 22.5 tubeless wheels/tires. Basically what I am hearing is wheels for 24.5 tires cannot use the same spokes that wheels for 22.5 tires. Once I have those spokes installed its just a matter of getting 9.00x22.5 dayton wheels (rare) and some 315-80R-22.5 tires.......I guess I need to call or go see Barry at Watts to find out what part number a 22.5 spoke for my front axle would be. He helped a good friend of mine switch an 88 R model rear spokes to hub pilot a few moths ago. He was able to find all the seals, bearings, and hub part numbers in a few minutes and the parts were only a few days away.

I found an older posting on here from back in late 2021 a guy had everything for sale. Spokes, bearings, wheels with 315 tires mounted and all the wedges and lug nuts.....for $200. I texted him a few weeks back (its been over a year since he listed them).....he scrapped it all.😌 LOL.

Right on. The gubbermint gets their cut before you get the keys.

Out of curiosity related to the other thread on here about automatics I was on TruckPaper trying to see how may trucks are for sale with autos vs manuals (there are more autos for sale). In the process of doing that I stumbled across a listing for a brand new 3 axle Peterbilt 389 dump truck. I included the link to it below. The price is absolute lunacy: $319,500. For a 15' long, steel body, tri axle, dump truck? Now whoever buys it needs to pony up and additional $38,340 in Federal Excise Tax. And possibly pony up an additional $19,170 in state sales tax. So definitely $357,840 or potentially $377,010 out the door. WTF? For a 3 axle dump truck? I want to meet the guy who buys it. https://www.truckpaper.com/listing/for-sale/217915375/2023-peterbilt-389-dump-trucks

I think the money men and fleet managers have spoken. Automatics are more profitable to operate in the long run. Either from less driveline abuse or driver recruitment/retention, or a combination of both. Otherwise truck companies would be building "shifter trucks". Probably have more opportunities at resale time when its time to turn the trucks over too. Any warm body with a pulse can get into a class 8 truck with automatic or automated manual and "get the job done", which I think was the main premise of this thread in the first place. I'm guessing the powers that be got what they wanted.

Didn't the FMCSA make testing at the state DMVs with your buddy's truck and trailer "illegal" as of 1/1/2022? My understanding is that to get a CDL now you have to go to and graduate from a driving school. No exceptions. Is this correct? If so do they even teach shifting theory, manual transmissions, etc anymore at these schools? I know several years back in Pennsylvania they made the automatic restriction as well but that wasn't always the case. I know around 15 years or so ago you could take the test in an automatic but not have a restriction.

That's what I'm thinking and Doublecluthin's response kind of confirms what I was thinking but wasn't sure about. If I had 11R22.5 steers currently I would probably be in business but since I currently have 24.5" wheels I would need to get hubs suitable to accept 22.5" wheels.

I'm pretty sure this is a dumb question but I'm not sure. There are several questions here but they are all related. Do spoke hubs require a specific tire/wheel size? Do all demountable rims (dayton wheels) have the same inner dimensions allowing them to go on any spoke hub? If you wanted to change the tire size on a Mack steer axle from 11R24.5 tires to 315/80R/22.5 tires would it just be as simple as obtaining the proper width (9.00 x 22.5) dayton wheels and putting them on or do the hubs need changed too? To add some context to this question I have a 94 RD with 6 spoke hubs on the steer axle with 11R24.5 tires (I am not sure of the casting number on my hubs at the moment). I would like to change the steer tire size to 315/22.5 if it is not overly expensive. Would I need different hubs for this project? Would my single steering box hold up and turn the 315s? This is more of a want than a need but I'm trying to figure out what is involved. Thanks in advance for any help.

Maybe try calling Watts Mack and see if they are still available through Mack. Doubtful but you never know. You don't really have anything to loose but time to make a phone call.

Sorry about the passing of Glenn. There is another fellow on here with the username "theakerstwo" also from Oklahoma I think. Any relation I wonder?

Forget diagnosing this problematic truck. I want to see this driveway. LOL. 26% grade 😲

Why not just get some steel dome head rivets like are there now and reattach the proper way? You don't really need a riveting tool to install them since you have access to both sides of the hole. If you are careful and have some finesse you can install them with a hammer. Or just catch the backside of the rivet with a little low temperature MIG weld to keep it from pulling out. Either way I would just replace with new steel rivets once the 5th wheel is reconditioned. The rivets themselves are dirt cheap. Depending on the hole size the rivets are like $10 for 250 of them.

Is it the range splitter or the red button on the side?

Would it by chance have to do with a Hall Scott gasoline engine? There is that thread in the fire apparatus section of the gentleman with the twin B21 fire engines from the Seattle area and they both have Hall Scott engines in them. Maybe the 21 is a designation for that engine?

$1500

I still have this old dog if anyone is interested....Looking to do some Spring cleaning.

I still have this E7-300 VMAC 1 engine if anybody is interested.