JoeH

We're big on brand loyalty here. We have a set of forks for the crane... (In addition to a '60s Oliver White forklift)

No but thats a sharp looking truck

How cold was it when you tried to start it? Diesel fuel forms drops of gel that clog your filters around 17 degrees F and doesn't thaw back out until around 34 degrees. If you last fueled up in the summer or fall then you don't have the winter additives that prevent gelling. You're going to have to warm the truck up. My brother got fuel for his 7.3 ford last winter at a small station and it gelled up on him going down the road after 30 minutes. He had to tow it into my garage to warm it up so he could get it running. Not all gas stations run winter additives, so be prepared to add your own next time. Also modern biodiesel forms algae after a year or less of sitting. It will clog all sorts of annoying spots. They make algicide fuel treatments, but it only kills/prevents algae, it doesn't dissolve existing algae.

Our trucks are all Mack. Mack. A '79 R686ST, a '95 RD688S, and we bought a 1988 RD690S that were rebuilding a mixer for. I haven't broken the maintenance expense accounts down to individual trucks, but the trucks cost us very little apart from tires.

Those are about 55k Camelback springs. Rears could be a bit heavier. We have a 1980 DM686SX with a 2 stick 6 speed, topped out in direct at about 48mph before we swapped the rears to hit 62. I recognize the bolt together torque arm joint and other features like the cone hub caps.

Is fuel thrown in with maintenance? And are you expensing parts for new truck assembly under that 1/3 maintenance or are you appreciating the parts into the value of the trucks?

That's a shame.

In a nutshell, the camshaft, the exhaust manifold, the first bit of exhaust pipe, etc are designed to push exhaust back into the engine through restriction, in the hopes of re-burning it to make it cleaner. Lucky for those with the problem engine, there's parts from previous year models that bolt right on to replace those components, resulting in happy truck owners.

Pull up a chair!

Nice truck, but it kills me that people weld stuff to the truck frame.

Pretty sure bumper-backofcab is longer than backofcab-rear of frame!

Do these have an alignment pin in the block that should be checked/replaced? At the same time?

My '95 E7 350 engine wants the pyro to stay below 1025, whereas my old '79 endt676 wants the pyro to stay below 1125. Not sure what # he is staying below. Also the '79 has a cab decal saying to idle the truck 3 minutes before shutdown. Helps the engine components to regulate temperature and cool down a bit after working.

Eaton makes truck parts. The other company makes parts for Auto's, Mann! Do you want truck parts or car parts? Never heard of automann. Stuff like that I buy through my dealer. I don't care about price hunting on safety. I care about not wrecking.

Your boss put a speed limit on your truck? He doesn't want you to get a speeding ticket? (I drive mechanical trucks so ignore me. I can't offer anything useful to help you out.)

My Eaton 8LL has an oring with that metal disc that goes on the spring. Oring deteriorated and fell out, allowing the shifter tip to pop out of the rails.

Did it have an auxiliary box behind the trans?

I'm wondering if the lift axle switch is for a trailer lift axle. But that's unusual to have the switch in the cab. It's an extra hose requiring hookup.

I've heard missile mentioned a few times. If this was a missile truck then the only way to resto this truck right is fab a missile launcher with a paper mache? missile strapped on!

What body was on the frame, and what trailer would be hauled by this truck? If this was a military truck, the Amazon is about the only place I can imagine that green being camouflage...

It is a junkyard dog....

Is that a backup light hanging down in the rear?

Looks like driverside fuel tank is held in place by a ratchet strap. A magnum deserves a little more TLC than that.

With a load on, at 650hp that'll eat cars!

The Page box looks like that's your lift axle control. Knob is the regulator to adjust pressure to the lift axle bags. Gauge on top of the dash could be for brake application pressure. See if it rises when you hit the brakes. Kind of a useless gauge, I've seen Pete's with brake gauges. Either you have enough pressure to stop or you don't and you need to push the pedal harder. Don't need a gauge to tell you that!