JoeH

All reassembled and operable. Tomorrow is "Sink or Swim".

.010 is if you're using a Machined Dowel type runout gauge that fits into the engine in place of the crankshaft. .020 is if you're bolting a runout gauge to the crankshaft. The difference in runout tolerance is because of any wobble in the crankshaft/bearings. According to the book.

No idea. Depends on how big your hills are and how heavy your foot is.

That makes sense.

Allison Auto & torque converter bolted to the flex plate. Not sure how much "slop" the Allison input shaft can tolerate.

Inline pumps can be computer controlled from ~1991 on. It's called econovance or something. Drive hub for the fuel pump is electronically controlled via VMAC I and VMAC II computers. About 1998 is when it went full computer with the EUP fuel pumps. I have 2001 in my head as the best year for the ETECH motors. The E7 can be full mechanical or partial computer controlled. You have to look closely at the fuel pump assembly to figure it out.

Mechanical E7s are probably the best Mack motor ever for durability. Personal opinion. Computer E7s... Good engines but electronics fail...

My dad cut out around 7, I put in another 4 hours trying to get dumb stuff done that doesn't need 2 people. Remaining: Trans mount bolts Battery cables to new starter, tie up wiring PTO shaft & drive shaft Rear oil pan bolts/readjust gasket Reinstall the water tank for the mixer body

If I have to take this apart again it's to drop a reman engine into this truck. Will run it til it says otherwise...

Currently scraping the last of our bottle clean to torque up the bellhousing/flywheel housing bolts.

I would have much rather had the Mack brand flywheel housing, but Mack has yet to get back to me on an ETA. First Motion part number from online matched the Mack number, but noted that it wants 7/16 bolts for the flywheel to bellhousing, not the metric ones that Mack had. New flywheel housing is within 1/16th overall depth of the old one. Overall I hope I'm not screwed. Trans is bolted up, torque converter is bolted to flywheel. Time to torque up some things and keep working.... Late night...

Left dowel is a solid round pin. Right dowel is a flat blade.

Top left. Top right. Bottom left. Bottom right.

Broken lower right flywheel housing to block bolt. How do we adjust flywheel housing runout? 0.022, 0.000 0.028, 0.013 Those are the runout readings on the four corners.

Macks don't respond well to deletes.

https://www.firstmotionproducts.com/mack-flywheel-housing-634gc5337m2/ Found one here. Getting started on replacing it tomorrow morning.

https://www.firstmotionproducts.com/mack-flywheel-housing-634gc5337m2/ Called these guys this afternoon at 2:30, talked to Dale. Top notch fellow, he had 2 in stock in their Allentown PA warehouse. Paid $1200 over the phone, made the 50 minute drive and picked it up before the warehouse closed at 3:30! It's aftermarket, no name on the casting and there's minor differences, but the part number they listed is a dead match to the "old" part number Mack gave me. Will very carefully compare it to the old one as we tear it apart. It's my understanding that there's different depth flywheel housings. We have the engine rebuild book, so we will do what we can regarding "alignment" as there are adjustable dowel pins or some BS.

Dex?

Had the truck out on the road for a few days before the Temporary Registration expired. Runs & drives very nicely. As rough of a ride as it was back from Iowa it's completely the opposite locally with weight on. Rides very nice. The flywheel housing is cracked six ways to Sunday. Waiting to hear from Mack if they can get me a new flywheel housing any time soon, otherwise I have to find a used one. Filling wheelbarrows at a job

I have a request in through my Mack dealer for a flywheel housing for our (new to us) 2003 MR688S. Has an AI350 with an Allison HD4560. Old flywheel housing has a decent amount of cracks all over it, visible externally. If my dealer can't get me one for a few months does anyone have a good used one?

Are those bolts clamping the trunnion bar in place? Is that how the stand was set up originally or did he add that?...

Not sure what the road call was, but you have to have a minimum. Every job has to cover it's expenses, including putting food on your table. The guy that bailed me out of trouble in Illinois charged me 400+ to show up, swap my lift axle tire onto a drive position, and rewire my fender lights. Took 2 hours total. Was worth every penny. You have tools you've bought, a work truck to insure/maintain. You've put a lot of money out to be in business, you shouldn't be making Walmart employee wages.

We added a fuel surcharge to our concrete for the first time in 55 years of selling concrete. It's a way to cover the absurdity of one particular major expense that can wildly fluctuate. "If" the price ever stabilizes back into a reasonable range of $3, we will drop the surcharge. It also forces the conversation about how messed up things are right now.

You have to figure what metric works for your business. For most it's by the mile. For me it's by the yard of concrete sold. Figure out your average MPG. Price per Gallon - amount per gallon you cover, ÷ MPG = surcharge/mile. Example: 5.89 - 3 = 2.89 ÷ 6 = $0.48/mile surcharge.

We use aluminum foil to seal inside the "v" clamp on our old ENDT676 motors. I don't recognize what you've got going on there, maybe you could wrap it in a few layers of foil before putting it back together.