JoeH

I bet it was a DM. The wing window sits notoriously close to the steering wheel, I know I clipped my pinky on ours a few times. Don't think I ever had that issue on our R models.

I won't ask you how you know that! 4th is the most I ever had opportunity to try 🤣🤣

The trans was 6 speeds forward, 5 speeds backwards. Left stick is gears 1-5, right stick direct low reverse, like you said. Low just sets all the gears down one notch. 2nd becomes equivalent of 1st, 3rd equivalent to 2nd, etc. Its just to give you a crawler gear. You only use low range for 1st gear when you need to crawl. Now the 5 speeds reverse... Fantastic feature. You can put it in 3rd reverse and cruise over soft ground before the ground even knows you're on it. Engine is probably a 283hp, with the engine mounted charge air cooler.

Claimed by @PMC, if anyone wants 2nd in line in case he falls through just let me know.

I believe I have the risers for the valve covers as well as the offset piece for the tip turbine.

I have a set of Jake brakes for a 1980 endt676 2 valve head engine. Any interest? Located in southeastern PA.

Keep your eye out for an RD688ST. This will be a thing from a 350 to a 460 HP truck, will have lots of gears to match the engine, it'll be pre emissions because they ended production in 2002 or so. An RD690ST will have that 300hp Maxidyne setup, with 5 to 7 gears. Maxidynes are fantastic. They're truly impressive engines for what they are. The mechanical E7 engine is probably the best engine you can have durability-wise. E-techs are good too, but the EUP fuel system can do a fair amount of damage when they fail. I caught mine last year just in time to save my camshaft.

Mack E7 engine is a 12 liter engine so it's small relative to the bigger CAT and Cummins engines. If you have lots of hills this will be worth consideration.

On camelback, wheelbase and whether the rear cab mounts are rigid or air bags makes a difference in ride quality. Bobtailing with no trailer is always sketchy, regardless of suspension. Rear end can bounce off the road and shift sideways a few inches or so. Weight rating of the camelback makes a big difference. If your MH is a tractor then it likely has 38k springs which shouldn't be too bad. 44k or 55k springs get much more brick-like. Camelback suspension is fantastic off-road, almost nothing better. Massive articulation over uneven surfaces while keeping full weight distribution on each wheel. Air ride can't compete there. Usually a 5 speed transmission is bolted to an EM7 which is a Maxidyne fuel map. Massive power and, 90%+ torque from 1000rpms up to the governor. This is normally a 300hp engine, if you have a 350hp that transmission is going to suck without more gears if you change the rear ratios.

All the Mack's I've owned from 1974 to 2003 all want 15w40. PS pumps on all my trucks are mounted on the back of the air compressor or on the timing cover. If seals blow out on the PS pump you get PS fluid in your engine, so you should be running 15w40.

Being tied into the backside of the compressor, if you blow the seals on your power steering pump and now have power steering fluid pumping into your engine, I think you'd prefer it to be 15w40 instead of ATF. Your car's power steering system is entirely disconnected from your engine apart from brackets and belts, so they'll use what they want. Imagine the warranty claim if you blew your engine and Mack found it contaminated with power steering or fluid ATF that you had in there instead of 15w40.

I think a shotgun is in order...

Text me unobstructed pictures of both sides of the engine and I'll post them for you. Is there no tag on the top of one of the valve covers? If it's been painted you might be able to peel the paint off? Where did you get the motor from? Is there a listing you can post that would have info on it? Even knowing what chassis model it came from would tell us what model engine it is.

Saw this parody yesterday, it was pretty good. I always wondered who that cocaine belonged to...

Text them to the cell number I PMed you the other day, I'll post them for you. Sometimes I have to crop the picture a little to make it work.

I'm guessing the water pump variant is for a particular chassis like an LE or MR, something where engine position to radiator shroud is different from typical.

AI is CCRS. AI started in 2003, so this truck started life with an AI.

Reread most of your OP. It sounds like the mechanics near you don't know Mack engines at all. You can swap the water pump region setup from your old motor to the new one if they're different. I'll have to look at my ASET AI and ETECH engines to see what kind of water pump setup they use. I'm hoping you can find the new engine model on the tag on the valve cover.

Hard to tell what the new engine is under all that seran wrap. This is the exhaust side of an AC engine. Your turbo doesn't look nearly this complicated. What does the valve cover tag say on the new engine?

Removing the extra bump and the restrictive manifold are hardware changed you can actually do to delete the AI EGR system. There's nothing computer related to the AI EGR system. Does the AC use a variable geometry turbo? I know the AI is fixed.

Here's a question for you @Joey Mack; can he block off the EGR crap on an AC motor, and swap on the wiring & electronics from the AI and call it an AI? Could go a step further and swap whatever exhaust and intake manifolds are needed from the AI to complete the EGR delete.

My zip code is 18914, you can check distance from me. My busy season is getting ready to start, I'll message you my cell # if you want to talk over what's going on with it.

If you were close to me in Southeastern PA I'd consider taking this project on.

What transmission do you have, manual or automatic?

The AI engine is almost identical to ETECH engine. Only differences are the AI has an extra bump on exhaust loves to crack exhaust valves open during intake, to suck partially burnt combustion gases back in, AI has restrictive exhaust manifold and turbo to create back pressure to facilitate the above; the EUPs are definitely CCRS on the AI, whereas they aren't all CCRS on the ETECHs. CCRS is Current Controlled Rate Shaping: the EECU fires the EUP in 2 phases to better control fuel burn. Pre-CCRS engines the EECU sends signal and fires the fuel into the cylinder in a single burst, rather than phasing it in. Minor fuel return differences from the heads, heads are not interchangeable between CCRS and Pre-CCRS without fuel return modification. Great news is you are dealing with the AI family of engines which is much better than the AC. You can delete the emissions EGR by putting an exhaust manifold and turbo on from a pre AI engine, and if you ever need to replace the camshaft you can put in a pre AI cam as well, though you need to research your cams first because there are differences in cam gear keyway positioning.