JoeH

You are correct, but hes working with what appears to be a remote oil filter system, which I'm unfamiliar with. The size of the oil pan also plays a role in ESI/ESI+. The. ESI+ is 56 quarts, the ESI i think is in the 36 quart range

Im not sure that you have an ESI engine. Your block is different from all of my ESI and ESI+ engines. I dont have the piece with the green masking tape on it in your pictures. Most of my ENDT engines have spin on filters, but I do have one with a different filter set up with hoses running weird places, much like I suspect you have there. I haven't looked at it to compare the block on that engine to yours. Can't upload pictures for some reason.

I think youre going to be into an ASET AC engine with egr crap on it. How heavy are you talking? Its only a 12 liter engine, so it lacks a certain torque found in other brands.

You low on fluid? Where are you operating? We were in 90° temps, now we have 70°s.

Only ever did this once with my dad supervising. All I remember is we used my old Western snow plow pump. Flushed it out, filled with diesel, reset the pump pressure regulator down to about 700 or 750 psi. Ran a hose from one of the plow pump angle ports to the injection pump. Used the controller in the cab to operate the plow pump as needed. After all was said and done I serviced the plow pump back to pressure spec on fresh plow pump oil.

My '95 has the transverse torque arm and 44k rears, my 2003 has the transverse torque rod and 46k rears. Don't think that's it. Probably just re-ran the engineering numbers when Volvo bought Mack and uprated them.

Try spraying wd40 on things next time it happens. Our old 1960s forklift the distributor cap and spark plug wires don't like rain, but it'll run if you spray some wd40 on it.

High pyrometer temps (1100+) and low boost mean not enough air. My e7-350 went from 1200+/22psi to 900/35 when I found/replacedy cracked CAC.

Check boost, could have a crack in the Charge Air Cooler. My '95 e7-350 was a whole different engine when we replaced our cracked CAC. Went from 22psi to peaking around 34 psi under certain conditions.

Pull heat shields covering the EUPs. Warm up engine, loosen one wire screw on each EUP, one a time. (Don't remove screw, just loosen. They're not designed to come out). Remove wire, you'll get a spark, no big deal. Listen for an EUP that doesn't make a change in engine sound. This is how you do an injector cutout test on these engines. Not a bad idea to pull all the EUPs and inspect. Pull the EUP cam followers as well. My 2003 engine had 3 bad EUPs, 2 had broken springs, one failed electrical component. 2 of my cam followers were bad, almost lost the camshaft but caught it just before major damage was done.

If it's Mack Camelback then it likely has an "automatic" style inter-axle lock. As a wheel starts spinning the inter-axle lock on the front of the front driver will start engaging, giving a torque bias towards the axle that still has traction. If one wheel on each drive axle spins then you're stuck, unless you have the momentum to carry you through the slick spot. While Mack also made differential locks almost nobody ever ordered them as an option, so your chances of having differential locks is about 1/1,000,000. But I believe all Mack tandems and camelbacks have either automatic or air operated inter-axle locks.

Any fault codes? Does your lightning bolt work?

Loooong shot but does anyone have experience putting an electronic transmission on a mechanical engine? I have a 1988 RD690S with an EM6-300L and a 7 speed Mack trans. We're rebuilding a volumetric mixer for this truck, and I'm wondering if I could modify the truck to run an Allison HD4560p transmission. I have a cable shift HT740 which would be easy, but it only has a PTO on the top which is a horrible setup. Useless. Pros of auto trans: PTO isnt clutch dependent. Can put any idiot in it to drive. Cons: grafting the trans and engine to work together. From what I can figure so far, I'd need a flywheel/housing, Bell housing, etc, Throttle Position Sensor adapter, and a few other sensors to feed into the Transmission Control Module.

Just put spacers between the air tank brackets and the frame. That's what we did on our 95. Or you can cut a V out of the brackets, fold the tank out to close the V's and reweld.

My experience with E7 engines is fantastic longevity, poor torque. My experience with E6 engines (ENDT676 more specifically) is fantastic torque and power. I had a 2001 ETECH 400 in 2015 and it was a dog, but it got where it was going. 1995 E7-350 we currently have is pretty good, but it doesn't have the torque to pull through hills. Same as my 2003 AI-350. They get up hills, but they don't get to the top very fast. Reality is modern trucks have 20+ years of tech advancements and 2-3 extra liters of displacement. This engine won't match that.