HK Trucking

I always used Shell Rotella 15w40. "The one true Diesel engine oil"

Yup, it worked! Nice job! Glad you got the vibration worked out. When I drove quad box equipped trucks I did notice that it seemed to be "the nature of the beast" to get a high pitched whine, almost like a siren, when in Hi split 4th & 5th. Not having heard the particular noise that yours is making, I don't know if that's what you're referring to, or if it's something worse. Be sure to use a good quality 80w90 gear lube in your quad box. In the past I have installed rubber hose over the shift levers to quiet some of that noise. Just cut a piece of heater hose to the same length as each shift lever, remove the knobs, slide the heater hose over the levers, and replace the knobs. As far as your top speed, is your engine reaching 2100 RPM's? If not, check the throttle linkage to be sure it's pulling the pump all the wayopen against the stop. If it is, then you may have to re adjust the hi idle screw to achieve 2100. Do you have a TRQ7220 or a TRQ722? With a TRQ 7220 that truck should fly with your stated rear end ratio of 4.2. Even with a single overdrive quad box (TRQ722) it still should do better than 55 mph,with that rear end ratio, in my opinion.

I rest my case.

Would you really expect anything other than the official company line, when touring the official company factory?

You must simultaneously increase the RPM's when you flip the button down. Don't flip the button down & wait a second to increase RPM's.

You could put a bulldog and Mack emblems on a 770 Volvo tractor too, would it then qualify as a Mack????? Just sayin'. Mack-specific programming of the ECM. Other than that, it's a Volvo engine.

All BS aside, the MP7 & MP8 are Volvo engines, re-badged to appease the Mack truck buyer.

E9 4 Ever wrote:

Thad wrote: Just another step in the Volvo-ization of Mack. Why they would want to substitute that half a$$ed suspension for the Mack camelback setup is a mystery. (Oh yeah, it's probly cheaper to manufacture, that's right) The Mack camelback suspension (in all it's various weight ratings) has been the best all around truck suspension for 60 or more years now, sure is a shame to see it being replaced by the POS ride.

I can tell you from experience that the Fuller 13's & 18's are a lot easier shifting than the Mack 13's & 18's, (T2130 & T2180). Once I got used to the T2130 or 2180, it was easy, just like anything else, but initially to compare the Fuller with the Mack trans., the Mack shifts harder. The splitter on the 2130 & 2180 is less forgiving than on the Fullers, but it can be shifted without grinding. One word of caution about the Mack T2130 & T2180 - ALWAYS pre select when making a range shift. The Hi - Lo range shift setup in those transmissions (and the T2090 also) is the weak link and must not be abused.

FS785 would indicate that it has a ENDT 675 237 HP Maxidyne. In the "785" the "85" would denote that. That being the case, I would suspect it was built with either a TRL 107 5 speed or more likely a TRXL107 or1071 6 speed. Possibly the air shift version of the 6 speed due to the fact it's a cabover. ( I wonder who is the genius who labeled it as a Midliner in the ad!!!!)

I see no problem with cabovers, but the one drawback is that in the event of a crash, the driver arrives at the accident site immediately.

You are entitled to your opinion, just as I am entitled to mine. Perhaps the key word in your reply is the word "option", meaning that manual is the best choice, but an automatic is an option.

I'm sure you realized I do not like automatic transmissions, and was expressing my opinion on what course of action the original poster should take. It was in no way a reference to your username.

Stick with the 8 speed, either rebuild yours or install a reman unit. Automatics are a P.O.S.

It depends on what State you're hauling in. In WI for example, a tandem axle truck (10 wheeler) can gross 54,000 lbs legally. A triaxle can gross 65,000 lbs legally. A quad axle can gross 73,000 lbs legally. A semi trailer combination with a tandem axle tractor and a tri axle trailer can gross 80,000 lbs legally. Almost every one of the 50 states has their own rules regarding axle weights and gross weights.

11R22.5's are customarily mounted on 8.25 in wide rims, and these are a direct replacement for 10:00 x 20's. If your going to rewire it for a 12 volt starter right away, this is immaterial, just take all the cables out and start over. Yes, it is safe to weld it, just be sure to vee out the cracks to insure good penetration of the weld. Add reinforcement plates if necessary. 7018 rods or er70s mig wire works good for this. (I still have burn scars on my arms from welding on those) Good luck with your new truck!

Garbage truck on fire watch for the burning fuel running down the street. http://wfrv.com/video/?id=20832@wfrv.dayport.com

And there is the root of the f'in problem. Why do we need foreigners designing trucks for the US market. Dammit, this pisses me off. A once great name like Mack reduced to being a puppet of a foreign company. WTF.

Whether the drum is still there or not, the driveshft yoke could be loose on the trans. out put shaft. With the parking brake applied, wheels chocked, and the transmission in neutral, slide under the truck and push upward forcefully on the driveshaft near the back of the trans. If there is up & down movement, try to determine if it's a loose U Joint, or if the yoke is loose on the output shaft spline. Loose U joint must be replaced. If the yoke is loose, then remove the U joint & drop the driveshaft to allow access to the retaining nut on the output shaft. Remove the cotter pin, then with at least a 3/4 drive impact wrench & suitable socket remove the retaining nut. Check & clean the threads on the nut & shaft, then apply red loctite to the threads on the nut & shaft. Re install the nut & tighten the livin' sh*t out of it with the impact wrench,being sure to have a hole lined up with a slot in the nut so the cotter pin can be re installed. (Some of the later model quad boxes used a retaining bolt instead of a nut, but the procedure is the same, just there's a bolt & a thick washer instead of a nut) Reinstall the driveshaft. This "looseness check" should also be performed at the other driveshaft yokes where they connect to the rear diffs. If any of those are loose, they can be tightened the same way. I have seen vibrations such as this caused by loose yokes quite a few times Unless a driveshaft has obvious damage, or the U joints are out of time, it's more than likely a loose yoke or U joint.