Ezrider

at least one of the dumb shits looks like he got a pretty good wallop to the face.

here is a video showing radiator replacement without removing the hood on the mack. hope you guys like the sound track. finally found witch external hard drive i had a bunch of music saved on that my dad recorded before he passed away in a car accident a few years ago. i enjoyed being able to add his contribution to the video.

the number that pops into my head would be 30-35k i wonder what he is actually asking for it. id guess if he has been trying to sell it for a couple years he probably has a pretty proud price on it.

here there not too bad till you go more than 10k lbs over. once you hit 10k over the fine rate per lb doubles. so another 1000lbs i would have been looking at like $1300 i guess still not too awful bad. i run 7 axle tractor trailer. divisible loads i have to stay in bridge law was perfectly legal with that load at 92k lbs gross other than i turned down a road that had spring frost law weight restrictions in place. and of course they place the signs were you cant see them until after your already on the road. the hopper gives me the best bridge weight out of all my trailers at 98K lbs i carry over 32 tons of payload in it. i was pulling my side dump this week i get 96k on non restricted roads. can legally haul 29 tons. i only had 26.8 on when i got stopped. can purchase harvest and winter weight permits that allow me to go up to 105,500 lbs. i saw the dot cop sitting there on the corner before i even made the turn then but wasn't to worried about it i wasn't overweight for normal roads and knew i didn't have any equipment violations. right after i make the turn i see the weight restriction sign then see the 9% grade sign and think well sh(& then he pulls out and follows me up the grade in the climbing lane without going around me i knew i was about to have some fun. i haven't had a overweight in probably the last 5 years not to say i have not been over weight but every time i found myself on a set of dot scales i was always legal. so i guess its about time. i normally try to keep things pretty legal though. i can scale more than the average truck around here so i don't really need to push the limits. here you don't really get a chance to use a lawyer to get the ticket knocked down. they want you to pay the ticket on the spot. if you pay on the spot they send you on your way if you want to be cited and pay later or arrange a court date they will put you out of service until you can make your weight legal. so yeah shovel 9k lbs out of your truck into another truck or give them a credit card or write a check for the 655 dollar fine and go drive the last 10 miles to where you were going and unload.

9000lb overweight was $655 to be paid on the spot to be allowed to continue on your way. cop was decent other than than he scaled me right in the travel lane of a 2 lane highway even though i even suggested traveling to a safer place to do it. if he keeps doing that he is going to cause a accident one of these days. friendly but he wasn't cutting any breaks was kinda a bum deal for me. i actually wasn't that heavy 92k lbs gross. no one mentioned the road had a seasonal load restriction on it. i was following the customers directions. turned off the state highway onto the county highway load restriction signs couldn't be seen till after you made the turn no place to turn off the road or turn around and the dot cop was sitting right on that corner. right after you make the turn you go straight up a grade marked at 9% so there was no hiding that i was heavy as soon as i turned the corner he pulled out and followed me up the hill and stopped me. i was 7k lbs over gross for the seasonal load restriction was legal on all axles and gross on the state highway. but was a little light on my steers and my pusher axle and a little heavier on the trailer tridem so the per axle weights added up to 9k over on the load restricted road. not mad about it though. i should have checked the load restriction maps before hand. i should have mentioned the manifold break in he probably would have let me go with a warning....lol

worked it pretty good today. have the 9k lb overweight ticket to prove it. truck seems very happy. ill probably re torque the manifold this weekend.

i am pretty sure its a Tecumseh. there is no manufacture name anywhere on it but i can tell its not a brigs by looking at it. the serial numbers stamped on the top of the flywheel cover match up with the information i found on Tecumseh. im fairly confident from the information we have collected here that its a 1986. next time i have the cover over the carb off ill check the carb for a date/code as well. 86 seems about right id say ether 86 or 76. i think 96 would be too new for its styling. would be cool to see if i could match it up to a old brochure picture now that we have it narrowed down but i have not really had time to do much hunting and pecking on the subject.

all back together now, no more noise. thank god...lol i was anal as could be putting it together. assembled the manifold without gaskets and snugged it down to make sure that cumulative tolerances did not add up to any large gaps mounted up after flattening the manifold, i only ended up with 2 gaps bigger than .002 one was .003 and the other was .004 some probably useless information collected from being way overly anal trying to make sure to avoid a 2nd failed job. i didn't get the exact same gaskets as last time, the dealer restock on the same gaskets i bought last time on the same part number was a multi layer all metal gasket, witch i would have been happy about other than the fact that there is a little bit of surface pitting on the cyl head and there was still some light pitting in the manifold in the low spots i would have had to take probably another couple thow off the entire manifold to get rid of the minor surface defects. it might have sealed fine but i know that from some past experience that typically a all metal multi layer gasket generally requires a pretty good surface Finnish to seal properly. the last ones i bought sold under the same part number was a composite gasket with a metal fire ring on the inside of the port. i decided to just go with a fully composite gasket without the fire ring. it was considerably cheaper and i wasn't very worried about the composite material being able to seal against the minor surface pitting. although i would suspect they wont last as long in the long run. the fully composite gasket measured about the same thickness as as the compressed composite fire ring gaskets. so they are slightly thinner than the last replacement gaskets. i did try to get a measurement to determine the crush on the first replacement gaskets by measuring a fully crushed area against some area's of the gasket that were not compressed where the gasket stuck out the side of the manifold and around the bolt holes. and got differences of .008 - .010 still gave me enough confidence to go ahead and install the manifold with a single .004 gap. measured from the head to the face of the flange on the nut after just snugging up to probably 5-10 ft lbs and again after full torque of 65ft lbs and got a difference of .014 i would suspect either the fire ring make the gasket harder to crush or it could just be the difference of currently under compression vrs having been compression and then relaxed. so id say in my worst spot i have .010 of compression on the gasket. so it should be very happy. there also seems to be about a .0015 tolerance in the thickness of the new gaskets, i installed the thickets ones on the 2 ports that had the largest gaps. so far not even the slightest hint of a leak, fired up the truck soaped everything down and not a single bubble went on probably a 10 mile test drive the sound i was hearing is completely gone. going to put it to work tomorrow hopefully everything remains happy.

that is more or less what i did today. pulled the manifold back off found that where my leak was on number 1 was out by .014 i had about a 6 foot peice of aprox 5 inch wide 1/4 inch mild steel found about a 2 foot section of it that was pretty close to flat cut that section out glued sand paper to it and after about 4 hours its all within .003 cyl head is all within about .002 except for between the front head and the rear head it seems the front of the rear head is set off to the drivers side by about .004 seems how im off on the manifold in the same direction by .002 should mate up pretty good. really kicking myself for not straight edging the whole manifold. i had a blowout on the gasket on number 6 i set a straight edge across 5 and 6 and didn't see day light assumed seems how none of the others were leaking prior to removal everything was good to go. need to grab another set of gaskets in the am and throw it back on hopefully it will all be happy after that. i may bolt the manifold up without gaskets feeler gauge it measure the amount of crush between the new gasket and the ones i just removed and make sure that i have at least a few thow more crush in the gaskets than what i have for gaps. someday when i build a bigger shop im going to be looking for a mill an a lathe had it been a week day i probably would have been trying to find a machine shop i could bribe into milling it quick for me. but seems how im stuck on gaskets till the morning anyway did it the home brew way....lol

lower studs that break into the push rod tubes got a little high temp rtv the upper studs witch are just a blind hole just got copper high temp anti seize. did not see any cracks in the manifold. the leak is bubbling from the gasket itself. gasket surfaces were a bit rough number 1 was not leaking previously #6 had a blowout in the gasket witch actually didn't make much noise at all. number 6 seems to have sealed perfectly this time but #1 is leaking pretty bad #2 has a very small leak 5 got a couple tiny bubbles as well. but #1 is certainly leaking enough to be a problem.

i should have done the first cam job myself. i think i would have avoided 98% of the issues iv had. and i would be a butt load of money ahead. iv had to work my butt off this last year to make up for all the money that was spent and time lost due to that whole cam job fiasco. i was not aware of the jake pin issues prior to the valve yoke guide pin failure. but i think if i was doing it at the point i was replacing rocker arms i probably would have been inspecting the bridges if not just replacing for the sake of your there and your hands are on it that's the time to do it. the whole reason i took it to mack is i figured they would know the ins and outs of the job and i may overlook something they would catch, boy was i wrong. when we had one broken eup guide pin at the time of the cam job i questioned them about the cause of the failure of the guide pin and asked if replacing the remaning guide pins would be advisable. they said not a wear item probably broke due to the cam failure. when i replaced the remaining ones this week due to another one being failed, comparing the broken one to non broken ones i believe the wear point on the side creates the start of the fracture that causes failure. had they not advised me it was completely un necessary to replace the remain guide pins at that time i would have replaced them all at that time. when the bridge yoke failed i certainly heard the jake break out the intake noise your are speaking of. im not ready to call it cam failure yet. i pressurized the intake system today no eureaka moments there but did find a few leaks a couple boots that needed adjusting and a snug up and i have a bit of a leak at the charge air cooler. intake gaskets are fine. even bumped up to 40 psi nothing that would be heard inside the cab under load. Windex on the exhaust manifold right after a cold startup works amazingly well. a couple very slight exhaust leaks and a big one on #1 really kind of a bummer but hopeful that is my noise. tried slight over torque on 1 and 2 hoping it would seal it up but it looks like i have to try again on the exhaust manifold. ether that or run it and it will ether pack with soot and seal up or mostly likely burn the gasket out. i think the air is squeezing threw a pretty small area causing more of a chirping sound than what i would expect from a exhaust gasket. any tips to help a problem exhaust manifold seal up?

i guess if it is a cam best case it eats itself alive before i hit the one year mark. so i should have some recourse. im sure the failed valve yoke guide and the shop leaving drill shavings in my top end probably reduced the life expectancy of my cam a bit. i really hope the cam is happy for a long time i really don't want to repeat that whole ordeal allover again.

good idea. i don't have a rig to do that but should be able to cobble something up quick i may try that tomorrow. as far as signs of exhaust leaks i did find a couple very very small soot trails coming from the #1 exhaust port. vary faint trails maybe a 1/8th of a inch long if that but i have only drove it maybe a total of 20 miles. so far. i wonder if i ran the engine with the down pipe removed and try restricting the exhaust flow out of the turbo with a board to simulate the back pressure of spinning the turbine at boost if i might be able to create the sound as well. first ill probably try to take it on a quick test drive first if the roads are better maybe re torquing the nuts will have fixed it.

i really do not want to go threw another cam job. i hope that's not the case. seems how the sound is present now and not before it seems most likely its related to something i touched. im really leaning towards exhaust manifold now. this morning when i ran it over to mack to get the eup trim codes updated i couldn't get it to do it. but roads are shit today and i was bobtail could not really get it up on boost without spinning the tires in any gear. its running nice and smooth. when i got back to my shop i started digging in to trying to find the source of the noise. one thought was maybe i installed the exhaust studs too deep. the bottom exhaust stud holes to break into the push rod tubes. although not sure how that would relate to boost and i measured the depth the old studs were installed at and installed to the same depth. figured id check anyway pulled the valve covers looked down the push rod tubes studs do not protrude. checked lash on a few cyl and were in spec. ran it with the valve covers off thinking it might be easier to hear a chirp from the lifters if one was present. everything seemed normal. pulled 4 of the eup's back out i reused the fuel tubes and bolts that were installed yesterday. ill probably have to keep a eye on that. but after 4 of them including the one that had the broken guide pin everything looks ok there still. i did find a couple very small soot trails on #1 exhaust gasket. re torqued the exhaust manifold and did get a bit of movement on the nuts when i re torqued it. i didn't start it back up yet. left the air cleaner off ill run the torque wrench over the manifold one more time tomorrow. going to dump the sump again. pulled the eup bore drain plugs this time but got oil out of them when i first pulled them but didn't notice any fuel when i pulled up the eups's so id rather just dump and refill the sump than take a chance of fuel contamination. didn't have enough oil on hand to re-fill so ill have to pick some more up in the am. hopefully the roads are better tomorrow and i can see if re-torquing the manifold fixed the sound or changed it. if not i may have to hook up to one of my trailers. i hate to head out to haul a load if somethings not right. really kinda hard to pinpoint as there is no sound unless your over 25 lbs of boost or so.

but would a lifter noise be directly related to boost? only make noise at 25+ psi of boost. that is what has me scratching my head. plus all lifters and rollers are about 3/4 of a year old. everything seemed fine with all the eup rollers and lobes. no skid marks everything seemed normal. sound was not present prior.

8-1 should be a code for eup cyl 1 assuming the blink codes are the same for your year mack as what mine is.

so starting out i went to change a eup that i had been getting codes on. found a broken eup roller guide pin. (i had one other broken guide pin when my truck ate a camshaft last year and they only replaced that guide pin) roller and cam ha no unusual marks looked ok. pulled all the eup's out changed the remaining 5 guide pins that had not been changed. also noticed a exhaust leak on the #6 exhaust manifold gasket. so i pulled the manifold new gaskets and studs. on the manifold and turbo. seems how i was already going to have all the eup's out i went ahead and put 4 new eup's in to make all my eup's new within the last year. got it all back together and started up everything seemed good, engine runs smooth everything seems just fine other than a strange chirping noise sounds kinda like crickets that is only present if i am over 25lbs of boost. it is directly related to boost psi not engine rpms. this sound was not present before the work? its a high pitched metallic sounding chirping noise. not a squeal but a rapid chirp only present when over 25lbs of boost and gets louder with more boost but lift off the throttle and it goes away even if rpm remains the same. engine seems to be running good other than this strange sound that i hope i am describing well enough. i had set a appointment at Mack for first thing in the morning tomorrow to have the eup trim codes updated. i may see if one of the techs can go for a ride and give me there thoughts. not that i have a lot of faith in there mechanics. i hate to start pulling eup's back out because the fuel lines are supposed to be one time use only. and not sure why anything there would be directly related to boost psi? pulled the intake and exhaust off the turbo there is a little more side to side play than id like but seals don't appear to be leaking and no in and out play turbo's tend to make more of a high pitched squeal than a high pitched chirp. checked the air to air boots that i had apart an re clamped them although if it was a boost leak it would be the strangest sounding boost leak iv ever heard. i don't see any signs of leaks around the manifold or turbo gaskets but i only drove it a few miles. you guys have any thoughts or guidance?

thank you mackpro

i run a 2000 460 run pretty heavy (around 100k lbs most the time) overall been a pretty good engine. mine is in a cx613 with a Eaton 13speed and 3.70 dana spicer rears. pro's good weight/power decent mpg reliability id say middle ground probably 8/10 there not bad iv had some issues with mine but still better than new trucks. con's its a 12L with it being a 12L jakes could be better lacks some grunt down low to pull out out of soft ground. narrow power band its going to want to run in the 1400-1800 rpm rang 1600 is its sweet spot. but when its its its sweet spot and the turbo is wound up it pulls like its a big engine. i probably would not like this engine with a 9 or 10 speed but its good with a 13 or 18 so really most its cons are just related to the fact its a smaller displacement engine. overall iv been very happy with mine.

witch of the numbers on the eup is the trim code that i need to write down to have put into the computer? exhaust manifold torque specs? replaced exhaust manifold gaskets with the metal inner ring used new studs but not the stainless on the head to manifold studs used the serrated flange lock nuts. i came up with 55 ft lbs torqued in 2 stages 25 then 55. this feels a little light for the size of studs but maybe not, i know manifolds expand and contract a lot is this the right tq spec?..............manifold to turbo stainless studs and nuts i came up with 40lbs and that feels about right to me?

well i took a look today and i don't believe its actually a brigs engine im thinking its a Tecumseh serial number 6238b from a little hunting and pecking i did pre-2004 tecumseh numbers the first number is the last number of the year. so it could be 1976 1986 1996 ect. On 3/17/2018 at 10:14 PM, kscarbel2 said: That logo was used by Sears from 1984 to 1994. That familiar engine, with the plastic fuel tank, doesn't look old to me.......it seems as though it was just yesterday that those silver Craftsman lawn & garden machines were being sold. if this information is correct would make it a 1986

thanks! i appreciate it. it is a learning process all in its own. i used part of that same track once before in my Mack cold start video. where the truck drives over the camera. song name is daisy dukes by a band called silent partner. there is some places to go to find music that is posted up for free use/copyright royalty free. i think a lot of bands use this as a way to gain exposure, the bad thing is you have to sift threw a lot of garbage....lol i try to save tracks that i find that i like when i find them for future use. awesome, i ment to look over the engine today to try to find any date or searial number to try to cross reference, but forgot hopefully i will remember tomorrow, were actually supposed to be getting a few inches of snow tomorrow so that might help me remember...lol

sounds like it is newer than i thought, i was thinking late 70's mid 80's on the new end. but 1984-94 is a much narrower date range than i really had any clue.....lol also good idea on checking the engine i know iv looked around on the snow blower for a date before don't know how close iv looked at the engine. worth a second look for sure. its a great little snowblower. would only run when choked when i bought it at a yard sale several years ago a simple carb clean up and and once over like i did in the video fixed that. try to always give everything a quick once over before the first time i use it for the season, of course i normally forget to put them up properly at the end of the season too....lol but its blown out paths in snow that was deeper than the top of the chute before. i have not yet had it break.

i may be wrong on this but i believe one designates front diff and the other is rear diff. so one would have a threw shaft and power divider and the other would not. i believe the rs designates a rear and the ds is a front

that really takes some balls, im sure he was just full of himself thinking he was in the right as well. im not a big fan of unions i would assume take any of my issues personally to whoever i am working for and negotiate my own agreements, having a union represent you just adds way more hassles than its worth in my opinion