Coenut

Hi everyone, I have a 290 cummins in my r. It has the hard copper line going from the air compressor to a bulkhead fitting on the passenger side of the trans. From the factory Mack used an eaton style 100r5 hose from that bulkhead to the air dryer. Will I be safe if I switch that eaton style hose to the nylon air brake tube? I can't decide it the air air and the line will be cool enough. It's a good ways down from the compressor.

Back in the day where log trucks loaded with the logs stacked like that or is that creative loading?

There's a few guys that carry handheld crossbows. Kinda bulky and not very concealable but at least it's something.

I've used vicon fab out of Ohio. Everything was spot on and the price for 4 pieces of rail was much much cheaper than pg adams. Higher tensile strength as well.

Good ol Mr. Hanky

Wasn't that truck on eBay 2 weeks ago with a drop deck trailer? The listing was here in ne pa and it was pulled by the lister.

Thank you.

I think these are check valves but I'm not sure. They were on each end of the large split air tank.

The fello that I purchased this from, if memory is correct said that he took it on a trade from a guy in ct. I found lots of paperwork in the cab from Ryder truck rental for this vehicle. Do you know if anyone from aiudi and sons is still alive? I could not find any info on the co.

1980 r747 290 cummins 10spd Rockwell rears.

I moved the front walking beam frame mount into the rear mount and the new rail was welded to the end of the stock chassis. I bolted the main crossmember the used that as a guide for me to drill remaining holes. Sunbelt rentals has mag drills and I bought rotabroaches from Blair equipment. All edges where beveled and slowly welded. The seam is dead center under the rear chassis beam mount. I notched the frame spacers underneath the hat and welded in a big gusset. Also welded a small gusset in the notch under the chassis flange. Easier to say than type. In hindsight it may have been wiser to split the rail more toward the center of that massive crossmember. I'm thinking that between the 9 bolts on each side, all the weld and the gussets it should be good. The truck does not pull a trailer it's just for show.

After months of hard work the chassis is finally painted. The chassis was stretched 3 feet in the rear, crossmember behind cab moved back a few inches for exhaust to clear, dual exhaust bracket and fuel tank brackets fabbed, and new a cross member added. Now it's time to reassemble, then onto the cab.

The Millards are my neighbors. I will give them a cal or stop by.

Is the wood grain vinyl or some other material? Very nice work.

Push back the round spring loaded escutcheon and you will see a pin. Drive the pin out and handle will come off.

I don't think there was any insulation in my cab either. I plan on using a dynamat product. The diamond shaped panel I'm pretty sure secures the mail pouch.

I have an ntc 290. The mounts I got from watts part number 20803176

I have an unused roof skin for an r model and the drip rails that go above both doors. I'm asking 150.00 for all. I purchased them from fellow member but no longer need them. Hopefully tomorrow I can post some pictures.

How about eggs machine. I think they do custom Pistons, and fedtech for head gaskets.

This is exactly why I ask. Unlimited knowledge. I would have bought the wrong one for sure then gone ahead and butchered the nuts trying to get them off. Thank you very much.

Not the bolts but the nut that has the 4 dimples.

Does anyone know what is the correct size tool to remove the wiper nuts. Truck is an r model.