Mackpro

Heading down the road and all of a sudden all the gauges starting going crazy and the seat belt buzzer went off when i hit a good size bump. It did this for about five minutes over every big bump. The it stopped as quickly as it started. Got home checked all the connections at fuse panels and under the dash and hood. Every thing seems to be good. Are there any spots where the harness may be rubbing and grounding that someone has seen before that could cause this problem. Also when this was happening it didn't effect the headlights they stayed steady and brite. No issues with power either. Thanks for your help.

Had one today do the same thing, it was a 2002 CX613. I thought he was crazy as I have never seen a seat belt warning buzzer go off either. But we followed the service bulletin and found the date code to be one of the older ones so I replaced the cluster (around $370 + labor) and this fixed the problem.

First Time Posting.I need help bad.I have a 2003 ch613 w/ a 355/380 hp engine that I haul logs with, 4 months ago while hauling a load of logs I lost power in upper gears. dose good thru lower gears but hit 8th and it just stops pulling and i have to go back to 7th.If climbing a hill hauling 30 tons it will fall to 30 mph.I put it in the shop, they changed charge air cooler, exaust manifold bolt's,, one was broke all new hoses and clamps,lift pump,checked all EUP's and selinoid's,checked turbo has 35 psi boost.Finally after 4 weeks they called and said they had done all they could do , charged me $5,000 and sent me on my way.Still no power so i took it to another shop where i know the mechanic but they are a volvo dealer and not authorized to work on mack so no computer access but he is good and done what he could w/ a borrowed lap top.He said he checked all the obvious things and changed ALL the sensors.Still no power so i put a new ECM on it,still no power During this time I'm not working and spending money /5 weeks. So i parked it and went and bought a peterbilt w/ a 410 caterpillar but still have the mack just sitting in the yard costing $950 a month any heip will be greatly APPRECIATED...

Your engine is a CCRS style ETECH engine. It is very close to the 427HP CCRS engine ( has same tourque output rating). I posted this awhile back after we bought a fleet of CH's for resale with the 427 CCRS engine, almost every truck had a low power complaint. = Here's a little tip for 427 CCRS engines with low power. We bought a fleet of 2002 CH's with this engine and all were low on boost pressure and power. We changed turbo and injectors, adjusted valves and did everything we could think of and still low turbo boost/ power. I called my buddy at our other Mack location and he said to replaced the injectors with 460P HP (736GB420M3X) ones and call Mack and have them turn on engine datafile 1MS5135. We did this and WOW what a difference, went from 22psi boost to 30 psi and this was after we put the old turbo back on. Just something I thought I would pass on to you guys.

Prevost is currently owned by Volvo.

I thought they were going to start putting the MP engines in the Prevost's. Havent heard anymore about it though.

THANKS I check ed the hose for a screen no screen. The transmission cooler is clean and the thermistat was checked and opens at 180. Today I am going to check the mixture of antifreeze to see if it is 50%?????????????????//

What type of fan clutch does it have? A air operated Horton or a electric viscus Bear. The Horton has of course a air line going to it and the Bear just has an electrical plug. With the key off you should not be able to turn the fan blade/Horton without slipping the belt. The Hortons do wear out often. The Bear has issues as well but when they go out they usually lock up solid. We have had issues with overheating with the Bear that we have not been able to figure out. At some higher RPM's the Bear will unlock to prevent fanclutch damage regardless of engine temp. Never seen a AI engine in a CV that didnt have a oil cooler inlet screen. It goes in the "Y" pipe at the oil cooler. Some CV's have trans oil coolers in the lower radiator pipe. Sometimes you have to remove it to get the "Y" pipe off to get to the screen. Also look between the Aftercooler and radiator to make sure it's not plugged restricting air flow.

Hello my name is Frank Ralston, and I am new here on bmt.com but I believe I have very valuable information to share. At my shop here in Northwest Indiana, I own 9 trucks, 2 CX, 5 CH, and 2 RD. As everyone knows, only the CX's have problems and it is all due to the EGR. For me at my shop, the cooler break in 5 years I have replaced 10 EGR coolers, and it is getting to be expensive and not worth it at all. OKAY, now for what you guys want to know.

I have an engineering student working for me at my shop and he built the circuit to plug into the little computer behind the EECU, (the EGR Computer)for the EGR mass flow and temperature. The truck succesfully drove for a week without any problems and the EGR codes 5-8 and 5-9 never showed up. For those of you that are trying this method, plugging in the resistors into the back of the EECU, and are having problems I know what your problem is.

The EGR mass flow is what is called a hot wire mass flow sensor, it measure flow by heating up an element like a toaster and as air passes through it it cools down and that is how the computer reads the changes in ohms readings. The EGRMFS runs on AC CURRENT! NOT DC! This sounds bizzare but it is true! The problem you are having with the resistors is probably they are blowing up. We had to use ceramic composite resistors thermally glued down onto a computer heatsink to dissipate the heat properly. The circuit passes so much power to these sensors that the computer side was rated at 250 degrees, taken from an infrared thermometer, and the ground side was reading 550 degrees.

The EGR temperature sensor is very easy, a simple 270 ohm resistor, 1/2 watt resistor worked perfectly.

We are now tapping into the electronic component side of the EGR valve itself, we recently had a cooler fail and it hydrolocked the motor, We are DONE replacing them. Everything will be removed so if anyone has any information on how to trick the computer to think the egr valve is still working operationally please contact me, nancyralston@comcast.net

P.S. I am willing to share any and all information with anyone interested in my circuit designs.

Thanks for reading,

Frank Ralston

I have an EGR valve plunger/diverter break but the electronic actuator was still good. It can easly be removed from the valve and plugged in to the engine harness. The EECU would still think it's there . All it does is open/close to regulate the flow of oil to move the EGR valve plunger/diverter back and forth to let exhaust to the egr cooler. I will try it tommorow.

looks like mackpro's experiment just got a little easier

Yes Finally some one figured it out. I got tired of running to Radio Shack to try different resistors. The weight savings on the engine is close to 70 pounds if all EGR componets and cooling lines are removed!

Most turbos don't have the series number on the tags. What about a part number? Or any markings on the housings?

I found that the metal tag underneath the sticker has more info on it. Here is one from a 2007 MP7 04emission, it does have the model info on it.

it has helped mpg also, but nothing is free, i gota keep an eye on exhaust temp. it goes up a lot faster now

goin to utah to get me some wheelie bars for this thunder mutt........

thanks for every thing

The cooler fuel might be helping. I see alot of fuel heaters with no water shutoffs on them, cant believe Mack lets them out of the factory that way!

i don,t know if it is the water shutoff you put on the fuel filter or all the crud you got out of it but this thing is pulling better than it ever has

hold up left front like a bad ass sprint car, im going west to mess with the large cars, ask em if they want me to throw em a chain when i fly by em up the hills. just hope i make enough time they dont pass my 25mph down hill truck on the other side.

thanks again for every thing

Glad it's running great! Dont know where all the rust/chunks in the bottom of the Davco fuel filter housing came from? You got aluminum fuel tanks so they didnt "rust". Got your cab shocks and air drier cartrage in and got your name on them.

Most turbos don't have the series number on the tags. What about a part number? Or any markings on the housings?

The only casted marking on the intake housing was 'Mack" and a "07". Here is the tag

Ah, alright. Thanks guys. This seems to be the case for pretty much every turbo for every every manufacturer recently, not just Mack. I'm having similar issues with finding info on turbos on engines by Navistar, Cummins, Caterpillar, etc. The specs are usually relatively easy to narrow down after you get the model number down, but it's all kinda irrelevant if you can't even find the model number, haha.

I have one setting on my tool box and checked it out and found no "series" number. In the box with the new updated turbo for the recalls there is a piece of paper with some of the "series" info, I have thrown thoes papers away. I will see if I have another turbo to rob the papers out of!

finaly made it out of north dakota

i will be there monday, if that works for you???????????????????????

i also need a screen that goes over outside of grill, i asume that the screen and weather front are a set, using the same fasteners??????????????????????????????

the black flies are cloging grill and rads, got charged $165.00 to wash out rads, bunch of assclowns did halfass job, wataya do, it's illeagle to kill em

thanks again for your help

I will see what I can find!

Mackpro68 - Would you happen to know what model they use? Perhaps an HX40, HX50, or HX55?

rhasler - Have the specs for the MP series changed between EPA07 and EPA10? I don't see any indication of this on the Mack site. I've been working on gathering info for Cummins stock turbos as well, but unfortunately I do not have any info for the ISX. Still waiting on Cummins to get back to me... but I'm guessing something between HX50-60.

I have a couple of blown up one's laying around, I look for any model/series markings on them. Mack/Volvo doesn't tell us any specs on anything anymore other than part #'s. We used to have engineers we could call for info, those days are gone. We have been replacing several MP8 turbos as part of a recall. We have to reuse the old actuator though. We had one of the new recall turbo's blow oil out the back/exhaust and ruin the DPF filters. Total bill was $8,000+ , thank God for warranty.

Does anyone know what turbos are used in the current series of Mack engines? I'm interested in the MP7, MP8, and MP10. All I know right now is that they're running Holset VGT turbos.

Thanks!

Yep , thats them. We had a small Cummins engine in the other day and it had the same turbo on it as the MP's. Of course our MP turbo's from Mack in a Cummins box! The first MP-7 (non-DPF) turbo's had a problem with the impeller nut spinning off but that has now been fixed. The turbo center section is water and oil cooled and the VGT/actuator is also water cooler. The MP7 turbo to exhaust manifold gasket had a normal looking turbo gasket but the MP8 turbo gasket had a very small hole/ block off plate in it (?????). Never seen a MP10.

How much oil pressure does it need to work properly? E-7 2001

I'll explain after someone can get me that info.

Thanks agian in advance.

From 1100-1500 rpm 30psi, 1700 rpm 35psi and 2100 rpm 40psi. This is measured with a special oil pressure test kit and at hot oil temp. Book doesnt show where the guage hooks to, Just says to follow the instructions in the kit. We have found if the Engine brake works good for the first 10 or so miles and then quits when the oil temp gets up. We first put in the new high voulume oil pump and if that dont work we install the external oil supply line kit. Of course make sure it has the new style oil check valves on top of the rocker arm brackets and that the solinoids are not pouring oil out the bottom with the engine running and valve covers off.

could you order power window switch,

i switched the driver/passenger switches to get me by till i get there some time next week, for service.......

do you think you should change coolant and check screen this time??????

can you guy's ballance tires?? i need steers ballanced.

The electric window switch is in my hand, I'll lock in in my tool box so I know it wont get sold!

could you order power window switch,

i switched the driver/passenger switches to get me by till i get there some time next week, for service.......

do you think you should change coolant and check screen this time??????

can you guy's ballance tires?? i need steers ballanced.

I'll get a switch if we aint got one already. I wouldn't change the screen but once ayear due to the possiblity of damageing the "Y" hose below the screen. Your cooling system/block/piping looked great and wasn't rusty/crusty like some I have seen. Our local Best One Tire does all our tire balanceing. We have a local small guy who balances with the tires on the truck, so the hubs and brake drums also get balanced and he solves alot of our vibration problems. Bad thing is there's a 2 week to a month wait to get to him.

We have a really big nice wall chart that shows all the different ring gear/pinion and bullgear combos but cant really post it here as it is huge. On the 92/93 series there are a 51,52,54 and 55 tooth bull gear (big gear in the bottom) and the various ring gear/ pinion combos that go from 3.65 to 9.59 (according to Mack Carrier Service Chart booklet 13-501). I think they did discontinued some ratios years ago but I cant remember. We usually try to just change the ring gear/ pinion (leaving the bull gear alone)to go up or down. Alot of the time just changing the ring gear/pinion is a big jump up or down so to go just 1 step up or down you have to change all the gears. I guess making the big jump up or down then changing your tire size you could get by with it. My little booklet has 66 pages of gear charts covering all 92/93 series to much to post.

fridge is doin good, that's a big thing here in phoenix. 106 2day

i feel kinda like a goofball rolling off these hills at 25mph, but it is what it is, im not gona burn the brakes off it.....

I dont blame ya for saving your brakes!

i don't think my engine brake is what it should be????????????

on a 6% grade grossing 72,000 if im run in 6th gear thats about 25mph i still have to touch the brakes now and then to keep it from over reving, in 7th about 30mph i have to use brake quite a bit, in 8th gear around 40mph i have to hold constant preasure, to keep it off the rev.

i know some engine brakes are not as good as other, same make, modle, year, miles,and so on

i don't have a lot of experriance out west, so im not sure if this is normal, or is something wrong with my E.B.

GRANDDAD, taught me get in low enough gear you run just below the rev limit and never touch the brake, but granddad never went west.

While I was adjusting your valves the other day, I did take out your engine brake solinoids and replace the o-rings and all looked good. How's the fridge working?

Havent heard from ya?

Does anyone have a list of fault codes for the new epa 07 engines. I know it is built in to the software, but has anyone complied a list?

Mack does have a book that explaines most 07 emmissions codes (manual # 8-218)however it dosent explain how to repair. And also some codes are not in the book.

repost

Rhasler was right on with that service bulletin as we have changed many of the cab exp valves that somehow affect the sleeper A/C. We should have the new exp valve in stock but I will make sure. Wish I could have snagged that fridge before you as it would fit perfect in the cabin of my boat!

I know this is a Mack site and i have a B61 and an RD but wanted to ask a question about my ford L8000 steering box has gotten alot of play in it more than 2 and a half inches in the steering wheel no play in the tie rods or draglink its definetly in the steering box the truck is a 1993 and in very good shape.about 280 thousand miles.My question would be is it time for a new box or is there an adjustiment.looked all over the box and can not see anything to adjust.The truck wanders all over the road and you have to keep correcting it.It does it worse when loaded.Any help would be appreaciated greatly.Trying to find a manual for it now thanks

Look at the housing and see what name brand it is and any #'s. It's probably a Sheppard M100 or a TRW/Ross TAS65. Let me know, some have adjustments and some dont.

That is some great info thanks so much. Is the boost gauge and manifold press. gauge an easy install? I've only had the truck just shy of 2 mos. the previous owner's a good friend of mine Still LOL. I'll ask him about all the things you mentioned. He's supposed to get me all the reciept's. That will tell me a lot.

Thanks Again Kurt

I would go with a aftermarket boost pressure guage (the boost and manifold pressure guage means the same thing, some people call it one or the other). If your truck has one it will be in the upper left hand corner of your dash. To install a factory boost guage the dealer has to reflash the ECM to read the new sensor and transmit it to the new guage. The aftermarket guage just hooks a piece of 1/4" or 1/8" plastic air line to the intake manifold and goes straight to the guage in the dash. http://www.pdqperformance.com/product-p/114524.htm

Where would I install the resistor? I have this exact problem, installed new lift pump but still here. I would like to try this before going to Mack.

A diagram if possible. Thanks in advance.

PS. I love this site, so much info to fill the brain.

Best I remember this was an unoffical fix that problem and no service bulletin existed. I remember talking to our DSM (distric service manager) and told us to how to install the resistor. The 680 ohm was installed inline on one of the two wires at the intake manifold temp sensor. I will try to find out more.