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Mackpro

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Posts posted by Mackpro

  1. Thats a good price on the turbo but warranty would scare me. Let me see how much I can get you one for.

    It's a $1000 cheaper than a Mack/Borg Warner reman unit I could get for ya. Our turbo and injector shop we use (a great one in my opinion) tried to get into rebuilding these style turbos a few years back. They had all kinds of problems with the variable vanes sticking when the turbo would heat up and everything started to expand. I think they quit trying to rebuild them.

  2. well wasn't that pretty badly designed there mr mack. i finally got the filter out and it was nasty. maybe if the engineers designed it a little better it may be cleaned more often. just a thought. anyway many thanks to forum for the info.

    The newer Pinnacle style cabs (CXP,CTP,CHU,CXU,GU) are much more easy to change to the filter. It also helps to use a air blow gun and a tooth brush to help clean out the evaparator core.

  3. I was getting ready to put my new one piece radiator tank on and I have questions about the holes. The big line on the bottom going to the engine I have figured out. The one next to it is the level sensor....right? the two at the top, one goes to the top of the radiator.....right? Does the the other hole get plugged?

    Here's the service bulletin on it , hope it tell's ya what ya need to know.

    surge tank.pdf

  4. well that time of year again here in sunny ga. i got my a/c checked out at dealer shop on my 05 vision and they repaired an a/c leak. well just turned on a/c today and a ?. where is the a/c filter on this vision. i had a looksee under and over but it beats me. i may have to go back to dealer to see if they can pump up the cold a bit it is pretty weak. also do you have a problem keeping the vent lever turned to recirculating position. it keeps wanting to come back to fresh. a screw is needed methinks. good news i got 6.88 mpg out of her this week. ok light loads but its a start. tks

    To get to the filter, you remove the 2 screws in the cup holder (1 screw where each cup goes) lift up the top part of the cup holder. Then remove the 2 screws that hold the lower part of the cup holder to the AC/Heater cover/panel. Then you will see 2 more screws that go into the cover/panel, remove those as well. Then remove the 4 or 5 screws down the passenger side of the cover/panel and the 1 or 2 on the driver side of the cover. The cover will come off, ( the cover and unit has a alinment pin in the bottom that go over each other) then you can see the blue screen/filter on the passenger side of the unit, pull it out and wash it out. Kinda a pain in the butt to get at but when clean makes a big difference in AC performance.

  5. The last 6 of the vin are 011459...truck is a 2006 CXN613

    That's confirms what I found with the "export" trucks, when we pull up the axle and spring arrangments in Mack parts it really dont tell us what rating the springs are. There are 5 different steer axle springs for the CXN, 12K standard with or without grease fittings, 12K heavyduty with or without grease fittings (as per Mack Service Bulletin I found)and then one part # for the 14K spring (does not say with grease fittings) Thanks for the VIN. Also your truck has an active recall for the fuel injector lines, Recall # SC324, you might already have the new injector lines installed due to another repair, like replacing exhaust manifold gaskets.

  6. We got to fine sum first!Don't think anybodys making one as of yet!

    This is where we need to get in here 68, put a tiger torch in an old oil barrel mount it under the passenger side cab and call it a dpf

    We could stand to make millions!:D

    There are several retrofit DPF's for trucks out there. http://cumminsemissionsolutions.com/retrofit.html for one, Mack even endorses one on their website, Huss Retrofit is recommened by Mack but they cant even make their website stay up! http://www.motortrend.com/features/newswire/41570/index.html. I think $1500 to 2500 wont touch a total install. FJH, have you went to the Mack SCR school yet? We had guys there this week in Chicago and next week in Atlanta. I'am setting out on this SCR stuff as my brain is full!
  7. Thought I would post this for discusion!

    The BC government has lost there marbles If they ever had any!

    SUBJECT: Upcoming Diesel Retrofit Requirement

    Managers, Victoria Carrier Safety Inspectors Driver Services Centers

    Motor Vehicle Inspectors Government Agents TRANS (Director, Chair

    Passenger Transportation Board Supt. of Motor Vehicles Transportation Policy)

    Deputy Director, CVSE Trucking Industry

    Regional CVSE Managers Law Enforcement Agencies

    Managers, ICBC Licensing Commercial Transport Insp.

    ADM (Compliance and Consumer (Inspection Stations)

    Services) Passenger Transportation Branch

    ____________________________________________________________________________________

    PURPOSE OF CIRCULAR

    To advise that an amendment to the Motor Vehicle Act Regulations will come into effect on

    October 1, 2010. This will require that heavy duty diesel vehicles of the model years 1989-1993

    be retrofitted with emissions reduction devices. This requirement will apply to vehicles with

    licensed gross vehicles weights of more than 8,200 kg that are required to be inspected under

    the Commercial Vehicle Inspection Program (CVIP). The following vehicle classes will be

    exempt from the requirement:

     Buses

     X-plated vehicles

     Emergency vehicles

     Farm vehicles with LGVW under 17,300 kg

    Acceptable emissions reduction devices reduce particulate matter (PM) emissions by at least

    20% and are verified by the following agencies:

     US Environmental Protection Agency: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/retrofit/verif-list.htm

     California Air Resource Board: http://www.arb.ca.gov/diesel/verdev/vt/cvt.htm

    The diesel retrofit will be an additional inspection item included in the Commercial Vehicle

    Inspection Program. Impacted vehicles will not pass their required periodic vehicle inspection

    without a retrofit. CVSE roadside enforcement will also be monitoring compliance of this

    requirement.

    BACKGROUND

    The diesel retrofit requirement was originally announced by the Minister of Environment in June

    2007 as part of the Air Action Plan. The intent of the initiative is to reduce harmful particulate

    matter emissions from heavy emitting diesel vehicles by at least 20%. Particulate matter is a

    significant air quality and public health concern and is linked to cardiovascular and respiratory

    hospitalizations, respiratory diseases, chronic obstructive lung disease, chronic bronchitis,

    pneumonia, heart disease and lung cancer.

    Vehicle owners will be responsible for the cost of the retrofit estimated to be between $1,200

    and $2,500 depending on vehicle type.

    Further information (FAQs) can be found at: www.th.gov.bc.ca/cvse/diesel_retrofit/.

    Link to Air Action Plan: http://www.bcairsmart.ca/.

    For questions on this initiative contact: diesel.retrofit@gov.bc.ca or call 250-356-9797.

    Greg Gilks,

    Anyone know where we can get aprox 10000 dpf addon kits quick?????????????/

    These guys are serious!

    I would like to see someone get one installed for $1200 to $2500!

  8. Hey guys I've got a no brainer for my first thread. I just bought a 05 CV713 Granite dump truck and the none of the owners manual items for the interior and radio and stuff are there. Can anyone shoot me a copy or link to the workings of the radio so I can change the time it's a half hour slow and driving me crazy. The radio has a small detachable face maybe 1"X2" and cassette player no CD.

    Thanks Kurt

    This is for a CD/radio but I think the controls are the same, hope it helps.

    post-1740-127185793241_thumb.jpg

  9. Thank You for the diagram

    I just cant find the F26 fuse in the fuse block

    I have no power going to my switch and I checked all my fuses and all are good.

    Do you know if there is more then 1 fuse block? I have only found the one just to the left of the clutch pedal.

    Look under the center top of the dash where your CB would set, a triangle shape cover with 3 screws. should be a small piece of paper with fuse location on the cover, if not I can post the fuse chart location.

  10. Here is the diagram, If you can figure it out your better than us. Starting with the CXP, CTP, and all Macks with the MP engine, they switched over to the Volvo style wiring diagrams and they are horrible it read. The older diagrams my 8 year old could read and understand.

    post-1740-127178017909_thumb.jpg

  11. Hi all. I've been searching the forums for a while now and haven't found a thread related to my problem, so here goes...

    I have a 96 CH613 that I know absolutely nothing about. Bought it as a farm unit, and it only gets around 200 miles a year so haven't been worried about learning the ins and outs of Macks. Until now that is. Normally, when I turn the key off there's a second or two delay and then a "Click" sounds from the right side of the dash and everything then powers off. What has been happening more and more frequently is there is no delay & Click, but all electrical power is lost. To everything. No lights, no radio, no CB, no key, no starter...nothing. Then, within 5 minutes or so, electrical power will suddenly return and everything will work normally again.

    So I'm guessing there is a main circuit breaker that's seeing "something" intermittently when I turn off the ignition, but where is it? None of the breakers behind the right dash panel are labeled, but none of them seem big enough for the truck's entire electrical system anyways. Or am I barking up the wrong tree, and need to look elsewhere for the break in power?

    Thanks for any help!

    Replace the big solinoid that is right in front of the fuse panel. This powers up everything that is turned on with the key switch. They carry alot of amps/heat so after a few years they start kicking out. They naturally get hot enough that you cant hold your hand on for to long (this is normal). We replace 1 or 2 a week. They made a couple different styles by many different vendors. Some of the first were black plastic, most now are round metal. Be sure to get one from a Mack dealer, we have some trucks come in with Ford starter solonoids on them, they dont last long.

  12. I guess it was the first ETECH's , later thay came out with a download and we were told to remove the resistor. SL210013

    Pub Type: Letter

    Group Code: 210

    Number: SL210013

    Former Number:

    Date: 10/23/1998

    Model: E-TECH™ ENGINE

    Title: ENGINE MISFIRE — E-TECH™ ENGINE

    Engine Misfire — E-Tech™ Engine

    In certain vehicle applications and operating environments, a temporary engine misfire with accompanying white smoke may be experienced on some E-Tech™ engines. This condition will generally be noticed when the engine is idling with the coolant temperature in the normal operating range, and little or no cooling air flow across the charge air cooler. It may also be noticed when a loaded vehicle accelerates after a momentary stop (such as stopping for a traffic signal, toll booth, etc.).

    To eliminate this condition, an engine ECU service data file has been developed by Mack Trucks, Inc. To receive the appropriate data file, a request must be made to the District Service Manager serving your location. Other means of correcting this misfire condition, such as installing a resistor, must not be used. Additionally, any trucks which have had a resistor installed, must have the resistor removed, and the engine ECU must be reprogrammed with the proper service data file.

    To summarize, the following procedures must be used to correct an engine misfire as described above:

    Contact your DSM and request to have the engine ECU data file activated.

    Use MackNet to download the engine ECU service data file from the MACK Mainframe.

    Program the engine ECU with the new service data file.

    Upload the verification file to the MACK Mainframe.

    Remove the resistor if one had been previously installed.

  13. We used to put a resistor in the air pipe all the time when I worked at dealer, it tricked it to thinking ambient air temp was colder than it really was, putting a bit more fuel. give me a day or to to remember what how many ohms and how we did it. bobo

    It was a 680 ohm resistor in the intake air temp sensor wiring, that was so long ago I cant rembember if it was the first E-TECH's in 1998/99 or the VMAC II's electric pump engines around 1996. Hopefully Bobo will remember more as well.

  14. Hey gang!!!! I've been trying to add the stock Pyro and boost guage to my dash cluster. My truck did not come with them. I see no plugs anywhere to get the pyro sensor cable into the computer or wiring harness. Also, I have no extra hookups out on the engine for the boost guage. I'm I at a lost cause??? My dealer has been trying to help but has struck out. I'm about to give up and go to Teltek for the aftermarket units. But, they are EXPENSIVE!!!!!

    The wires for the pryo are not there, you have to add them, I usually make my own harness and wire it into the VECU inside the cab. The wire/plug for the boost pressure should be there right behind the EECU (engine computer)just add the sensor. Then you have to take it to a Mack dealer and they will go into the VMAC online (Mack Mainframe)and turn on both sensors and reflash and reprogram both ECM's. I'm not a fan of factory pryometers due to constant problems with sensors and wiring harness. You can make your own boost pressure sensor set up easy. Just a low pressure air guage 0-50 psi and put it in a single guage pod from Summit or Jegs, run you a 1/4" plastic air line to the intake manifold, cheap and easy.

  15. This is what my wife found and am having her load it onto bmt. Date is December 08 at 359,712. It has less than a 100,000 miles but I might be screwed on time.

    Let it idle for 16 hours last night and when i left the truckstop this morning smoked like an old pos detroit that was on fire.

    Smoke cleared up after a few miles.

    I'll look into it for warranty monday morning.

  16. Hi - long time lurker here. I've noticed that a lot of local Granite dumps have the Hendrickson HMX 460 suspension. Which suspension would you choose if buying a new Mack - a Camelback or a Haulmaxx? The application is a general purpose dump truck (10-40% off road, 20+46 + a pusher axle)

    Which has superior:

    ride?

    traction?

    durability?

    weight?

    cost?

    This is all idle speculation at this point.

    Most all Mack garbage trucks (MR and LE) around here have the Haulmaxx. They claim less maintance and easy to replace pads but not very good off road performance. I like the Mack but thats all I have ever known.

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