Mackpro

Whereabouts in W.KY are you? I'm in So.IL...not too far from W.KY. Guys in Cape had mine apart and couldn't find anything wrong...

I work for the same shop in Paducah. Yours is a pre-ETECH engine aint it? The engine brake on thoses are somewhat trouble free. There are 2 different lash settings on thoses brakes , one is .085" but I cant remember the other. There are some upgrades to those I think. Wonder if the freeze plug fell out of the rocker arm shaft on yours? It happens on alot of ETECHs with the Jacobs brake. The broken rocker arm shafts only happen on the ASET's with the Powerleash brake.

this truck does not run like a sewing machine. when you lay in the berth you can feel that something is not right, all other 460's ive been around where smooth as silk.

i was thinking it would be okay till i could get it in to you.

i mite fall in love all over again once your through with it. if it turns out that good well see what you can do to fix up the wife.

I can give you the # of a good plastic surgon in Nashville that retourqued my wifes top end. Nice "D" now.

I recently realized by holding the mode button and the trip resest button at the same time on our 05 Granites it will display fault codes on the odometer readout. Most of our trucks will display "no fault" after letting go of the buttons, but a couple display codes, for example 5050-14? Under the code, no matter what the code is, it also says M-136. What are these codes, and how do I determine what they mean?

Mack 3P is right, the MID 136 means ABS problem. The 5050-14 is probably really a "S" 050-14 which means SID 50 and FMI 14 If I was at work I would have my ABS book and could tell ya what it means.

i hope to build a working relationship at mackpro's place, have all my schedualled stuff done there and hopfully i retire before he does.

We have several trucks with the oil leak and the ones out of warranty keep on trucking. Look at the date on the turbo replacment ticket and I will look up the ASET reman turbo warranty and see if we can get it covered. I will send in a warranty E-service to see what Mack's offical word on the problem is. I would like to check out your engine brake as well. Not to scare you but I had a cracked rocker arm shaft last week that caused your same problem.

Purchased truck with 440,000 miles on it. Was told it had a fresh service. At 251,000 did complete service oil and filters. At 251,000 it did not use a drop of oil.

It appeared 1 quart low on the dipstick when I filled it up. At 255,000 it showed about 2 quarts low. At 456,600 it read almost a gallon low. Noticed frame was wet below turbocharger. I don't know if it is coming from the turbocharger but it is wet below it. And the linkage that controls the ditch appears to be damp. Am headed west out of Cheyenne Wyoming today. Am going to be pulling over major mountains today. Will do my best to keep exhaust temp below 1000 degrees.

This truck had turbocharger replaced between 390,000 and 400,000 miles. Was wondering if there would be any warranty on this turbocharger and if the warranty would carry over to the new owner?

I know I lean on you guys a lot but I really appreciate your help.

We have had a rash of reman ASET AC turbos leak oil as you describe. It seems to leak where the center section bolts on to the rear exhaust section (by the actuator). It is never a bad oil leak, just a little drip onto the frame rail. I will have to check on warranty on the purchased turbo. Do you have the reciet of where it was bought and/or put on? You must have the reciet. Also did you change to a different brand of oil than what was used before? We had a ASET that we sold new and always used Mack bulldog oil, the truck got traded in and we resold it and the new customer changed over to Rotella and the engine started using oil like crazy. We switched back to Bulldog oil and no problems. I know Shell Rotella is one of the best oils out there but this engine didnt like it.

I have a friend here in Germany, that had just bought a CX-613 Vision 2003, with E7 12 Ltr. motor., Cause of the Tire prices here, he needs to change the speed ratio in the ECU board computer, but the computer is always asking for a password to enter,

Where can he get it, ie., or what is the password ? , Mack Truck USA., would not give us the pass, without a Tax Number, which he does not have cause hes here in Germany

Tks, American

The password could be anything. The former customer must have had a password put in at a dealer. The truck dosen't come with a password from the factory. A Mack dealer can redownload the ECU and erase the password, usually takes less than an hour.

Here is the wiring diagram for a 84 and up MH

The new tandem rear axle is encouraging though- besides the improvements it shows that Volvo is committing to keeping Mack components around for another decade or so. Maybe Volvo management is finally listening to us? As for the new Econodyne engine variant, hard to tell if it's anything significant or just a new rating. They've also packaged the exhaust more neatly on the Granite so there won't be a foot or two of embarassing exposed daylight between the cab and box. BTW, Mack's recent PR noted that Mack is now the largest truck exporter in North America- perhaps Volvo salespeople around the world have figured out that there's no point in trying to sell a Mack customer a Volvo!

Today we were ordering/specing out a new CHU 505HP MP8 with SCR, the new Mack rears were a $5000+ option over the Rockwell rears. While I hate dealing with Meritor/Rockwell or Eaton warranty, I could not convence the customer to go with the new Mack rears. I didnt get a chance to check the weight savings of the new Mack rears.

My 1993 CH613 starts fine inside. Leave it outside and well you have to put either to it to get it going. When it gets going it will run rough for matbe 10 seconds, then it clears up. It has a new starter, fuel filters and a drainback valve. I'm puzzeled any ideas would be a great help.

Check the fuel return jumper (from head to head)between the valve covers. They have rubber o-ring/seals that start to leak after many years and can let air in and let fuel drain back to tank on some types of injector pumps(depending on the type of overflow valve on the injector pump) I think it takes a 7/16 wrench, just tighten the 2 nuts usually they are really loose.

This is probably a long shot but have you checked to see that the air cleaner intake is properly aligned with the intake ducting on the hood? Mine was at least 3 inches off. After rotating the air canister for proper alignment my pyro was noticebly cooler. I also turned my intake louvers on the hood around to face forward for more of a "ram" air effect....every little bit helps. Getting your valves adjusted probably wouldn't hurt either if that was never done before, but that ain't cheap like the first two ideas.

Very good tip on the air filter housing. There is a alinment tab on the housing, but it usually gets bent over and then the air filter housing will just go on any which way. Starting around 1998 they came out with a different style housing that bolts on only one way so it usually line up perfect. In around 2004 we started seeing alinment problems again but Mack came out with a service bulletin where you can recut the hole in the hood to match up with the air filter housing.

Ok guys,I got the info i requested from the Mack Museum using the frame vin #.Here go's

Built at Macungie PA plant on Dec. 11,1984 for M.B.Transport.

Order cancelled transferred to general sales (original order from Keystone Mack)

Sold to Wm. Cavill & Son Linden NJ on February 14, 1986 14 months later

E9 440 Mack V8 Now has 500 V8

T-2100 trans.

12000 fr. FAW 537 C

REAR SA34C CARRIER CRDPC92193 4.17 RATIO

SUSP.ARD234.6 AIR CONTROL KIT FOR SA34C A577-MI

OK STEERING GEAR 392S POWER STEERING

Like i said before I have never seen this axle mount steering before but, I've been told they work OK. Now the build date being an 84 makes sense for this box being there. The motor thats in it now is A E9 500 according to the valve cover tag I'll check the block # now that I have the orig. engine #. The frame is on piece single front to back no splice under cab, it does have the round head lites and the interior color is Burgandy I thought it was black but what the hell do I know!!does any one remember this truck? any info about it would be helpfull since I will be Buying it this week.

Thanks for any help Ernie BULLHUSK PS sorry for being A pain in the ass with all the questions but what I don't know I have to learn.

When I first started my job here at the dealership (22 years ago) my second oil change/service was on a old RW sleeper truck that had a Cummins engine, it to had the steering gear under the LH steer axle spring, I always thought that was strange. I have seen a old Mack cabover with the same set-up, I think it was a Cruiseliner. We used to have some old ones out back for parts. I used to cut off the big draglink tube ( tube from steering box to passenger side steering knuckle) and use them for blackpower cannon barrels, very thick and seamless. The steering box is just a Sheppard 92 series with a different style mount. My Sheppard 92 series service manual covers this model. The 92 series is a great steering box used in mostly in extra heavy duty use (dump truck and garabge trucks) and was used by Mack till just a year or so ago. I took a class at Mack on steering gears 10-15 years ago sadly Mack dosent offer classes on them any more ( or on most vendor componets). I pulled up your truck on my warranty side and it has a recall on the seat belts? Federal recalls never expire! Selling Dealer Code: H327

Vehicle Details

Make: Mack Model: RWS722LST

Model Year: 1985

Application: Other GVWR:

Vocation:

VIN: 1M2V230Y3FM001471 Cab Size:

Build Date: 12/11/1984 Shipment Date:

Delivery Date: 02/14/1986 Delivery Odometer:

Registration Transferred: No Registration Completed: Yes

Owner/Lessee Details

Name: WM CAVILL & SON

I will soon be the lucky driver of one of our companies new 09 Granites. These will be the only 2 trucks in the fleet with the DPF, and nobody at the company seems to know ANYTHING about the system, all they do is complain and say what a pain in the you know what it is going to be. I suggested having the dealer come to our shop and have a small orientation on the system so everyone can get educated about it, but working with stubborn old drivers that is not going to happen, they would rather just complain about it and tell horror stories about "a guy they know" who told them something about them...

Anyways, I am curious about the ups and downs of the system. Main questions are-

-How often do I need to regen?

-How long does it take to regen?

-How often to service the filter, and is it a big job?

-Can I regen anytime, or do I have to wait for a warning light or something

-What happens if I interupt the regen process?

These are not over the road trucks, rather they are quad-axle dump trucks, hauling mostly asphalt in summer months, usually 50-60,000 miles per year. Hauling asphalt usually means lots of short trips (1/2 hour at most), along with alot of idling time throughout the day.

And finally is there a purpose to the goofy looking stack? It is a 4" pipe, but has a flat top with a cap, and the exhaust exits through a series of holes on the side of the pipe... The owner already removed these because he thought they looked dumb, I just wonder if that will affect anything...

Any info will be much appreciated! Thanks!

Please, get the Dealer/saleman to explain to everyone who is going to drive how the system works, it is not that hard to figure out, the late 09's had the self cleaning 7th injector which took care of most of the problems. We have several with over 350,000 mile and still have the orignal DPF filter and still going strong. I would leave the orignal exhaust tip, you dont want rain water going down in there and most all chrome tip out's wont last due to the high exhaust temp during regen. There are resaons mack puts these on there. Our sale dept did have some DVD's on the DPF for our customers.

Hey mackpro I do see a fair jump in power and not much change in the fuel I use, I also went with the turbo they offer. i had the inj. tested when I got them, mack said they didnt have much life left, so took them to local inj. shop they said they were good and set up pressure in them. the price from rochester is good. Im going to adjust the waste gate to get a few more pounds of boost though, it only gets to about 33psi on a hard pull. check out Illios dyno center http://www.idc-solutions.net/MackE-7DieselPerformance.html#MACK ETEC etech performance power chip module they have this to say 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 Mack E-TEC ETECH - All Models - Power - Mileage - Performance Chip - ECM Re-Flash Tuning & PLUG-IN CHIP MODULES!

We now offer precise engine management tuning for all 1998-07 MACK ETEC engines, by re-flashing your ECM for more Power & Better Fuel Mileage! - $1250

Requires Removal & Shipment of your Truck's BOSCH Engine Control Module to us for precise engine tuning.

Safely Adds from 15% up to 30% More POWER! - with Power increases of 50HP, 75HP, 100HP, 125HP, or 150HP! - Your choice!

Send us your ECM, along with the increased power you need, and we'll make it happen!

Please allow 3-5 working days for return delivery.

If you have any questions - call us at (309) 523-9200

PLUG-IN CHIP MODULES - 1998-2008 ETEC

Our ADJUSTABLE PE-18-MACK Plug-In Chip Modules add 40-100HP: $1495. NOTE: These Modules require connections to the fuel injector wiring & take approximately 1 hour to install.

Ive been wanting to call them to see just what they are doing, maybe you can call them? see what they say? Its funny that mack could make marine E7 with hp up to 900hp, I know its water cooled, but it must have different electronics, Id love to find one and rob it!! maybe barry can start a forum on hopping the E7 up? bobo

Their Stage I ,II and III injectors are alot cheaper than our factory injectors so I almost have him talked into it. His engine still has the orignal injectors in it and I know they are worn and need to be replaced.

hey its a 2000, etech 460, rtlo 18, 44's(4.35), it had daytons on the lift and drives when I got it, I changed over to hub pilot, alum tanks, dual batt. boxes. the turbo is a garret and inj's are Rochester fuel stage II, complete 5" exhaust from the turbo back to twin high flow donaldson 10" mufflers(that took some serious though, but well worth it). most likly gonna instal (coolingmist) water inj this spring. custom interior with all stew warner gauges, 400 watt 10" sub under pass. seat. the scoop is donaldson 8" air ram, when I put left hand breather on I will have scoop aswell. the scoop has been on back order for a month and half, so if any buddy has an 8" air ram they dont want I will buy it! I do all my own work I did my apprenticeship at the local mack dealership.

Did you notice a big difference when you insatalled your Rochester stage II injectors? I talked to them today and they were very helpful, I have a customer with a 2000 ETECH 400hp and needs just a little more HP. I tried to do a HP conversion to 427 or 460 through Mack but due to EPA reason's this truck/engine can't be programed any higher. I do all the HP conversions at our shop and every now and then the EPA says NO. We are thinking of going to aleast stage 1 injectors.

2004 vision w/427 tore the belt that runs the alt. water pump, and ac. Also frayed up the fan belt. The idler pulley bolted to the block has a chunk out of it as well as the tensioner looks twisted a little bit. My question is, is there enough room to change out the tensioner and idler without taking the fan or anything else out? Also, what for bolt head holds the tensioner and idler on? Thanks in advance

P.S. It's been one of those days. The top radiator hose on our 2008 cxu created a 2 in. slit in it letting the truck loose lots of coolant. Hose looks brand new, but has a 2 in slit in it. Any thoughts on why this happened? Mack dealer didn't have one so i went to the KW/volvo dealer and was able to match a volvo hose up(had to cut about 3 in. off to make it work) Seems to be working fine.

The tensioner on the passenger/RH side of the engine that runs the wide belt is a pain to change, takes a cut off 8mm or 5/16 allen wrench and a small cheater pipe to remove. The tensioner on the driver side ( narrow water pump belt)up on top of the engine is fairly easy to change but the black plastic idler mounted down low is a real pain to change. It is a "torx 50" bolt that strips easy. You can do it without removing the fan but it aint easy. There has been many revisions in the part #'s on the tensioners due to upgrades and improvments.

I have heard that many MR/LE owners are experiencing nozzle clogs for the Thermal Regenerator after treatment device. Is that true?

These nozzle are designed to work in a clean air environment...oil in the lines will cause them to clog at the screen. Has anyone seen oil in the airlines?

Our shop has not seen this but one of our other shops has replaced a nozzle due to poor mist/spray.

seems the air flow is the same.

thanks, i will try to save you some trouble by doing the checks mackpro suggested, if i can't fix it i will try to scrape togather enough money for tolls and head for the windy.

There is also a service bulletin on the expansion valve freezing up in the sleeper, the fix is to replace the cab expansion valve. SB637021

Date: 08/31/05

Model: CX, CH, CXN, CHN

(Also applies to Mack Trucks Australia)

Sleeper Air Conditioner Evaporator Freezing and Icing — CXN, CHN, CX and CH Models with Blend Air-Type HVAC System

If sleeper air conditioner evaporator freezing and icing up complaints are encountered on CXN, CHN, CX and CH model chassis equipped with the blend air-type HVAC system, a service replacement front (cab) expansion valve (part No. 4379-RD570151) is available through the MACK Parts System. Replacing the cab expansion valve (front unit) located on the cab bulkhead will correct the ice-up condition of the rear sleeper unit.

Expansion valve part No. 4379-RD570150 is not applicable for this repair. Be sure to use the service replacement part No. 4379-RD570151.

There is a actuator motor on top of the unit that moves a "blend door" this allows air to be drawn past the heater core or the AC evaparator core. You should be able to see this motor move when turning the temp knob back and forth ( it moves kinda slow)

You can see the actuator in this breakdown.

i think it mite be in the temp control, got any ideas how to check this next time it happens?????

There is a actuator motor on top of the unit that moves a "blend door" this allows air to be drawn past the heater core or the AC evaparator core. You should be able to see this motor move when turning the temp knob back and forth ( it moves kinda slow)

Maybe a dumb question but whats coolant push?

It's where coolant is pushed out of the surge tank, mostly on 2004 and up ASET "AC" engines with EGR systems (CH, CHN, CX and CXN models). It can happen on the "AI" engines in the CV, CT, MR and LE trucks but you dont see it to often. Mack had many service bulletins for fixes for coolant push.

I'll have to look at the print-out the Mack dealer gave me when I was there a week or so ago...they cleared the codes after printing everything off. I seem to remember something about a position sensor, and the 3-4 sounds downright familiar. They cleared 'em to see if any would come back (all were non-active) the next time I was in...definitely going to have 'em take a look.

The problem is, it is not a "consistent" stumble. Sometimes it happens, most of the time it does not. Might occur 3 to 5 times throughout the course of a day....sometimes more, sometimes less.

Also see if you had a 9-2 code, that could be your starter solinoid.

Just to let all you guys know, no matter what Volvo's financial situation is, the Volvo Ocean Race will continue in fine fashion. They spend hundreds of millions of swedish kronars to sponsor that god foresaken event meanwhile laying off people all around the world. The volvo way.

Speaking of the "Volvo way", this will really piss you off. While sending in my warranty parts back to "Mack" there is a change of adress. Our DSM's are complaining that there's not enough money to help our customers with "policy/goodwill" warranty but Volvo has enough money to send someone to get the name of a road changed! Which probably aint easy to do! = TMAC / Warranty Material

13403 Volvo Way (formerly 13403 Mack Truck Road)

Hagerstown, MD 21742 US

There are a couple service bulletin's on stuff like that, one has to due with the engine position sensor on the timing cover and the other one has to do with the starter solinoid(on the starter). I'll see what I can find.

This is part of the service bulletin on the engine position sensor, we have see this happen without setting a code but only between the listed rpm's. The real fix is reshiming the sensor and installing a larger vibration damper. If it happens outside of the listed rpm's it could be something else. SB221037

Date: 05/24/06

Model: E-Tech™, ASET™

(Also applies to Mack Trucks Australia)

(Supersedes bulletin SB221037 dated 2/13/04)

Troubleshooting an Intermittent 3-4 (Engine Position Sensor) Fault Code

The electronic malfunction lamp can illuminate briefly, and a 3-4 fault code (engine position sensor) can be logged intermittently under the following conditions:

When the engine is accelerated progressively to high idle while the vehicle is in neutral

Under a hard pull (engine load greater than 75%) with an engine speed between 1,490–1625 rpm

The 3-4 fault code can be reproduced consistently when either of the above conditions are met. When the code is active, engine load and speed will drop suddenly, causing a brief but pronounced engine stumble.

Outside of the above mentioned operational conditions, engine load and speed ranges, the engine functions correctly with no active codes.

The last few days, I've been experiencing an odd momentary cut-out of the throttle...usually as I'm accelerating up to speed, the truck will act as though I lifted off the throttle, then stepped on it again. Ordinarily, it isn't a problem...unless I'm in the low split gear and have pre-selected the high split...when the throttle cuts out, the transmission tries to split, but the throttle comes back before the RPM's drop enough to catch the next gear and it revs up pretty high if I don't catch it quick enough and lift my foot off the throttle. The other day, it happened on my way up the coal pile...stayed in gear (split selector was in low & so was the transmission...so it wasn't trying to shift on me), but it jerked pretty hard on the drive line. It only lasts a split second...but it's enough to bug me...can't afford to tear anything up right now.

It's an '01 CH613, E-7 460

There are a couple service bulletin's on stuff like that, one has to due with the engine position sensor on the timing cover and the other one has to do with the starter solinoid(on the starter). I'll see what I can find.

the bolts are called huck bolts all they really are is rivets. the trucking company that i work for has allredy had to cut some out on one of their trucks and replace them with bolts the huck bolts are instaled with a hyd press that pulls the threads and squezes the huck to the bolt. if the truck twist the frame very much on rough roads or with heavy loads on a regular basis the huck bolts will become loose and have to be cut out and bolts/nuts will have to be put in.. joe

The "Huck" bolts have been around since 1989 (wow that was 20 years ago , time flys) when the first CH's came out. I think Mack sent us the Huck tool as part of the madatory tool program. Easy to use. They do make a "body bound" bolt to replace a Huck bolt for the do-it-yourselfers.