Mackpro

We got our first plate in!I made it up last week took ten minutes and a peice of 1/8 plate ,We'll see!????

Haven't heard back on the results yet!Heres for hopen!

I'm still a little leary on turbo wheel speed!

I was actually messing with my Mass flow resistors today. Its been so crazy around here and been stuck on to many big jobs, not enough hr in the day to get them done. I did have a 2004 in today that was running fine but had a active for the EGR valve, found the EGR cooler plugged solid, thought about leaving it plugged (same as a EGR valve block off plate) but customer wanted it cleaned or replaced, filled it full of mineral sprits for 3 hrs the steam cleaned out, all OK. The code wasnt putting it in limp mode just letting you know that the EGR measured flow didnt match the target flow ( has to be off by 10 lbs). That what I have been playing with to fool the ECM into think it does have just enough flow to keep the code from becoming active. I cant wait to hear your results.

how would I go about finding out what the right pully should be? james

Probably not to many RB's with 460 ETECHs in them running around? if you know of any , ask to raise the hood and measure the diameter of W/P pully or ask the local Mack dealer to pull one off the shelf and measure and compare it to what you have on the truck . I have seen wrong parts put in the right box, gotta remember we now have Volvo in charge so anything is possible. Maybe a slipping water pump impeller, rare but it has happened. Also I saw a lower crank pully so wore out that the V-belts were sinking to the bottom and not grabbing good when tight, long shot though. Mack used to make lower temp thermostats but our parts guys here only keep the standard one (180 I think). I does have a thermostat in it I hope.

Mackpro68, what is this keyway you are talking about? I have a 2000 RD, 400 that I put superflow injectors in to give me 490Hp. It does run hot in the hot summer days. What is involved with putting it in? Is it a stepped key that you put in place of the stock key? Changing the cam to crank timing. What would you ask for at the dealer for part number?

Its a off-set key way that goes on the cam gear. Retards the cam timing 1/2 degree. On the first series of ETECH engines 350-400 HP had straight key way, 427-460 HP off set retarded and 275-300 HP had off set advanced. When doing a HP conversion up 427-460 we had to pull the camshaft and press the gear off and install the off set key way. I have seen CL trucks get by with out changing the keyway due to large radiator but I have personal experiance with an RD that we tried without changing the keyway, it was back before summer to have it installed. Customer was tring to save money but had to do it after all. I have a service bulletin on it here some where, will post it when I find it. The ETECH CCRS series (starting around 2002) engine all used straight keyway's regardless of HP.

Guess thats worth a try if ya got the hose Glenn!

This is a real valid thought! Check into that one!

I have seen the wrong water pump put on and the truck over heats (pully to small or to big).

We sold a new RD or Rb or mabe a R688S many years ago (mech fuel pump) and it ran hot since new, Mack sent an engineer down to help us find the problem and turns out Mack put te wrong water pump on, even in the parts book/micro fich it listed the wrong part#. (micro-fich= along time ago). I did find a shop rag in an oil cooler one time and yes it made it run hot.

I have a 92 mack ch613 with a 300 mack engine. My question is can i adjust the idle with a screw? If so where is it at? Thanks in advance

Most all 1992 CH's had electronic fuel pumps, if it does, it really needs to have the idle set with a computer/Mack dealer. Is the throttle pedal have a linkage rod (manual pump)going to it or electrical wires/plug. If it is a electronic pump/throttle pedal the idle can be raised but I'll have to find it in the book and post it here.

Its a 460. the real problem is it runs hot, not gonna say over heats but hot(it has shut it down twice last year) it always has since new! Ive had 5 core rad made for it, I clean it alot(take air/air off to blow out) have checked time and time againg for air leaks, checked air comp., done bubble test and comb. gas test, changed water pump, put mechanical gauge in, new vicus fan, switched to longlife(red) coolent, had at dealer number of times and we cant fig. out!? so oil cooler was cheap enough and had the cash, if Im gonna take rad hose off to check for scale, might aswell change it out. like i said its orginal cooler. any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

I have wondered if i could put a bigger fan(blades) as there is about 2" from tip of blades to shroud. not enough distance from rad to waterpump to put air fan.

Did it come from the factory as a 460HP? If it came orignally as a 350/400HP and someone bumped the HP up and didn't change the camshaft keyway it will overheat in the summer time. I know I have done it. If it was orignally a 460HP did it just start doing this? I have seen the wrong water pump put on and the truck over heats (pully to small or to big).

yea its the round one, its never been changed, I and my local dealership think i have a flow problem, i did water pump 6 month ago. oil analysis has been saying it for awhile. now is the time Im guessing 3/3.5 hours? Im doing it my self so just wondering?

That time is about what Mack pays us on warranty but in real life it could take longer. I'm thinking about 4 hr.

Hey any one got an idea how long it takes to change the oil cooler on E7 in a RB? james

Did it put oil in the radiator/coolant? Also I assume it the round tube style and not the newer square box style? I can look it up in my warranty labor code/time in the morning.

I had stated in a post sometime ago(a year or so) that right after my company that I work for took delivery of our new pinnacle it seemed to have a vibration getting up to speed. The fix for this was new shocks, cab and motor mounts, which took the vibration away, but the truck rides alot rougher now than what it did before they did this. The suspension just seems alot stiffer now, even the slightest uneven terrain will make a wheel spin, but we never noticed that untill they did this upgrade. So my question for the mack techs. is,, Are the new shocks a stiffer shock than what was on it? Could we put shocks on it that was on it to get the smooth ride back? Did the cab and motor mounts fix the vibration and the new shocks weren't really needed? I love the truck, but I would like the smooth ride back.

P.S. Why did Mack go with the shocks on the outside of frame on the pinnacles instead of the inside like our vision? The vision rides real smooth.

We mostly had the problems with the CHU model trucks however I have heard the the CXU truck could have it too. All the ones I heard of had MP8 engines. The Mack engineer I talked to said it was a "hamonic vibration" from the engine and the cab "soaked" it up. All of those engineers are gone from Mack now since the big move from Allentown. One small note, one of the CHU's still had a slight vibration after we installed all the new parts, it was later that we found out it had a out of balance drive shaft. Here is a E-mail from Mack back on 2/12/08. I received your voicemail regarding the CHU613 unit with the vibration complaint. Jim Gallagher is correct we have seen this issue before in which there is a reoccurring resonant vibration in the cab while under a load in mid to high range gears (at approx. 40-60mph). Here is a parts list that you will need based on a 300mm frame and “AL” suspension (see below). If you have any questions – let me know.

Rear Suspension AL461 – AL401

300mm Frame

Part Number Qty

Front Cab Mounts 30QS4590M 2

Shelf Bracket L.H - 300 30QS4617M 1

Shelf Bracket R.H - 300 30QS4617M2 1

Upper Frame Tie - 300 30QS4619M 1

Upper frame Tie Bolts 27AM16 4

Upper Frame Tie Nuts 191AM4 4

Rear Engine Mounts 20QL414M 1

Front Drive Axle Seats N/A N/A

Rear Drive Axle seats N/A N/A

Edge Shocks 4000-60675001 4

Upper Sleeve N/A N/A

Upper Sleeve N/A N/A

Lower Sleeve N/A N/A

Thanks,

Are they titled as new trucks?

I have to correct myself, they are titled as "salvage".

I think that is great,and I wish more of that went on,but I just wonder how he gets around the gov't BS on emissions.

Nobody around here really checks anything as far as emissions go and the truck never leave a 75 mile radius from home.

Are they titled as new trucks?

They use the orignal VIN as on the cab and frame rail. He has clear titles as I have copies of 2 titles of the last 2 trucks he just built. We are doing HP conversions next week to bump them up to 460, these 2 have 2000 E-TECHs in them.

Was it a glider kit?

Kinda but no, a guy I know buys the cab, hood and frame from a company that strips down new Macks and builds military vechicles using the Mack engine, trans and axles. He then buys the rest and builds the truck with what ever Mack engine/trans/axles the customer wants.

Had a nice and clean CV713 come in today for some trans work. Raised the hood and found a 2 Valve Head engine in there. It looked like it was done correctly with all Mack parts and mounts. Wish they were all that easy to work on. It had a 1989 CH dash and all the guages worked.

Has any one out there encountered this problem like I have with the hour meter reseting on the total display and not on the trip side. Is there a way to retrive the real time in the computer or is it gone forever.

All the info is stored in the VECU not in the dash cluster. If you replace the dash cluster the stored info will show up on the new cluster. We do replace alot of dash clusters but none for that reason. I'll search my Mack service bulletins for dash cluster issues.

i asked more than a couple times if this truck had a fresh service on it when i bought it, and was told yes, just serviced.

they replaced both long power steering lines, surely one of the bolts that hold the lines didn't get picked up by accident?

maybe used same drain pan for both jobs, screw got left in pan, and drain plug got dropped, it's a long shot, but possible.....

Your safe on this one, Its a common Mack screw but not used anywhere inside the engine.

trying to upload pix now found a 1/4" x 1" bolt stuck to the oil drain plug magnet

Yes. post a pic. is the bolt complete/not broken? Does it have a flange/made on washer?

if i do this repair myself???

can i reuse fuel lines???

is it unsafe to do so, or is it just a ploy to make you buy fuel lines??????

To save money you could do it your self, it's really not that hard but I have done so many so it seems easy to me. Mack says no-no on the reuse of the fuel lines but this is for liablity reasons (alot of AC engines caught fire due to reused lines). Any time we do one under warranty we use all new everything and follow the newest service bulletins. But when we have one not covered by warranty and the customer is dirt poor, we have just slipped in some new gaskets and reused the fuel lines. If you mark the line with the location and install it back in the same hole most time it wont leak. We do a long test drive to make sure (25mile). The real problem gaskets/studs is #3 and #4. If it has the new style studs on those 2 locations I see no reason to change them all if it was my money.

maybe im just paronoid, not used to running this long without a major repair$$$$$ it seems like my turbo is getting louder????? checked all pipe fittings, every thing is tight and proper, kept an eye on boost pressure around 31 psi when its pulling have seen it spike 36 psi some times. this turbo has about 50,000 miles since it was replaced.

i never heard the turbo in my vision.

maybe something was wrong with it. maybe it was just that quiet?

is it just getting broke in????

do i need to get a smaller muffler so the pipes will drown it out????

would the warrenty transfer with new owner??????

is there some thing i need to keep an eye on???????

From what I have seen , when the turbo makes a "squeal" during high boost it is usually a turbo gasket or the intake manifold gaskets. I know you have been through this before but the smaller the leak the louder the noise. All the exhaust back pressure in the exhaust manifold trying to spin the turbo puts a real strain on the gaskets. Make sure all your turbo nuts and manifold nuts/studs are there. I have already seen the new style/ new fix stud/spacer fail on some Tyson trucks.

truck had complete emmision system replaced 400,000 miles. it has 450,000 now, how often should i clean the screen?

should i replace all coolant each time???? can i reuse 50% of old coolant

it has pink phillp 66 coolant, i had trouble with this in other motors. is it okay to switch to the green stuff????

This is all I could really find on the subject. Mack Service Bulletin Date: 11/04/08

Model: ASET™ AC, AI, AMI

(Also applies to Mack Trucks Australia)

Oil Cooler Coolant Inlet Screen Replacement

(November 2008)

A screen (part No. 387GC32) is incorporated into the Y-shaped hose at the oil cooler inlet on ASET™ AC, AI and AMI engines. This screen is designed to trap debris which may be circulating in the cooling system. Over time, this screen can become plugged with debris, resulting in restricted coolant flow and possible damage to cooling system components and/or the EGR cooler.

Oil Cooler Coolant Inlet Screen

1. Oil Cooler Coolant Inlet Screen (Part No. 387GC32)

Anytime the cooling system is drained for any reason, such as cooling system repair, maintenance or the regular coolant drain intervals, the oil cooler coolant inlet screen must be replaced with a new screen.

I just recently bought a 2007 CTP 713 Mack Granite dump truck. It has on it an ugly exhaust elbow going into the muffler stack. And I'am having trouble getting the correct chrome or stainless exhaust elbow I really need. At the mack dealers when I give them my serial number they can't tell me if the new elbow I'am ordering is just a regular steel elbow or the chrome/stainless elbow that I want to change for. I got a nice looking truck but that s shaped wrap around exhaust elbow ruins the look of it.

When the parts people look up your truck, it will only show the part # of the pipe that came on the truck. Your only hope is to find another CTP with a a chrome pipe and get the VIN# and have the parts guys look that truck up and get the part#. I have a CTP on the lot here and just went out and checked it but it was not chrome. Your dealers parts guy might send in a parts E-service to Mack Specs and see if Mack could tell them the part# if they even make one in chrome.

I just got off the phone with MACK OF NASHVILLE and they corrected the part # 446 TC 25 to Part # 446 GC 25. They just called me back and said they could not sell me one seal but I had to buy 10. They would not split up a case for one. I told them to forget me.

Just my luck again

mike

They had none in stock and had to order 10 to get 1 and didn't want to get stuck with 9 of a slow moving part. WorldWide of Knoxville TN shows 8 in stock give them a call.

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cya

§wishy

HasBeen

Yep, you cant beat "Other People's" beer cause it's free!

Hello everyone, I was on here a couple years ago, but I have since lost my account information.

So my uncle, and my boss, has a 1997ish Mack CH612, with a 9spd RoadRanger. After idling for an amount of time, the computer shuts down the engine, he is looking for a way to remove this shutdown "feature" and he is also looking to find out if there is a way to allow the injector pump to pump more fuel. He says he thinks that it will have to be done in the trucks computer but any advice on it would be appreciated.

Thanks, Ben

A dealer needs to hook up to it and disable the idle shutdown and make sure a parameters are set correctly in computer (tire size, gear ratio, governer setting to MIN/MAX, ect ect). If this was a fleet truck it might have a password for computer entry so the dealer might have to redownload ECM/computer, its very common. I would do this first before messing with the HP, turbo, injectors, ect.

Does the new MP10 have EUP's?? The dealer is trying thier best to get us to buy one in a new truck, but with so many problems with the last one I'd rather not have them. I was a Cummins and Detroit man too long I guess. I have heard rumours the the Volvo Mack line will be available with an ISX down the pike, but they only have MP10s right now..

Adam

The Mack MP engines are ,as FJH said, like everyone elses. Single head, overhead cam, unit injector. No more EUP's like the ETECH style engine. The MP10 is only in the Titan, but at one time you could get it in a Volvo at a reduced HP rating, we have 2 D16 vovlos on the lot now. But please dont go buy a Volvo!