
Mackpro
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Posts posted by Mackpro
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i put two cans of dyke brand stop leak and two gallons of antifreeze in it...so far it has not leaked any more coolant into the crankcase...any ideas on where the coolant could be leaking from if the stop leak solved the problem?
also...the oil is onot turning gooey and milky in the blowby filter now since the coolant is not getting into the oil...will the coolant and water steam out of the oil or will it be in there until i change the oil
should have put the stop leak in there sooner...thanks.
Does your engine have a coolant filter on it? The reason I ask is around 2001 mack started making the coolant filter optional( I think about 50-75$) and alot/most all of fleet trucks were built with out them. Fast forward to today and most fleets and 2nd owners didnt keep the PH/DCA "whatever you call it" levels correct and it would eat the block up where the liners rest on the ledge in the block and block pitts up on the ledge and leaks coolant past the liners into the oil pan. Now when this happens we usually remove the liners and cut out the pitting and put shims in to raise the liner back up to specs. And of course use new liners and rings and rod and main bearings. This is what we call a mini-overhaul, reuse the steel pistions and heads.
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Also what rear gear ratio, transmission and tire size do you have. The most AI engines has a small torque curve and if everything isnt right the performance will suck. I know for a fact that a AI engine with a Fuller 8LL and 4.17 gears and tall 24.5 tires has no low end and takes forever to get going. 4.42 and 4.74 work the best with tall 24.5 tires ( the 4.74 hurt the top end alittle). We no longer order/use the Fuller 8LL due to less warranty and the Mack trans seem to be geared better (love the 310M or the Mack 13-18 speed). We have had to regear so trucks up to the 4.42/4.74 Good Luck
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I have a 2006 Mack granite with a 460 and it seems the turbo doesnt start to spool until its about 16 rpm then you have to shift and it goes back down to 1450 and it just hits the wall. I was cruising on the 4 lane and went up a decent hill with light load and it dropped from 65 to 58 with 460 hp????? no way something isnt right HELP????
Take it to a Mack dealer and tell them you need the "throttle responce" file flashed on your VECU and any available data files and software for the EECU. The download from Mack is free to the dealer, you should only have to pay for the time/labor to install (2 hr usually) They will have to call Mack tech support and have them turn it on. We do this about once a week and it makes a big difference in power and of course throttle responce between the gears. Do you have a turbo boost pressure/ manifold pressure guage in upper left corner? Should be atleast 30 something + at full load, more boost the better.
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This is my sixth week with this truck. E-7 460, 18 spd, and 4.73 rears - thought this would make a nice lowboy truck. I love everything about it except the motor, slow throtle response kills me on any hill. Boost will get up to 32 psi once the rpms are 1600 and up. I understand being slow with a heavy load (almost always 100k - 130k) but even empty it falls on its face. Also throwing a 8 - 4 code, but only at start up, light will go out after warm up. Im hoping this is my problem but open for any suggestions. Maybe a hotter program?????
Take it to a Mack dealer and tell them you need the "throttle responce" file flashed on your VECU and any available data files and software for the EECU. The download from Mack is free to the dealer, you should only have to pay for the time/labor to install (2 hr usually) They will have to call Mack tech support and have them turn it on. We do this about once a week and it makes a big difference in power and of course throttle responce between the gears. The gear ratio is perfect for tall 24.5 tires. You might change the #4 EUP if after the downloads dont help enough. The new EUP must be calibrated at a Mack shop to be right.
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Make sure they replaced the oil cooler inlet screen as this usually clogs and overheats egr cooler and it cracks. Part # is 25099919, if it wasn't replaced you could be doing this all over again.
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Looks like a E-7 in an MR. An E-6 would have lifter covers/sideplates on the block behind the injection pump.
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Yes there is a fuse that send 12 volts to the switch. The fuse # depends on the year of the truck. 95-98 looks like fuse #31 and 99-04 looks like fuse #3. Really need to know exactly what year to be sure.
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that makes sence drive it till it throws that code at operating temp. have put 1500 miles on it since and havent seen it again
thanks for your time
If you ever get more than 1 or 2 active (8-1 through 8-6) at the same time, have your fuel pressure checked and it could be low and will set off several EUP codes at once. Those fuel supply pump have been known to go bad (plastic gear slips on steel shaft)
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I have seen several Mack Midliner cabovers around here with the "Manager" stickers on them. From what I could tell they were just regular Midliners, I know we sold a few of them new. They were some of the last Midliners we sold. Must have been around the last year they were imported.
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EUP pump codes are normal on 04 and up EGR engines, the extrem heat around the EUP's cause them to start to code sooner than they should. If the FMI of the code is 8 (abnormal frequency responce)I would drive it as this seems to be a common thing when cold . If it was mine I wouldn't change it till the code started coming active when the truck is hot. It might go a year or more with out failing. But some guys get nervous when that malfunction light is on and want to change it. We see trucks come in all the time with black tape over the EML (electronic malfunction light).
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I have a 2004 Mack Front load garbage truck with an Aset engine (350 HP). Can I replace that engine by simply bolting a 350 E7 in it?
You could install a 1999 and up Etech engine with a few mods. The EUP pumps are different between the Etech and ASETs so to get the correct HP you need the orignal Etech ECM. The ASET fan is bolted to a fandrive not the water pump as on a ETECH. We have put 99 ETECHs in many newer 06 and 07 CV713's. We are a dealer and can program the ECM,s to match and run quiet good. I would not use a mechanical E7 or a electronic E7 VMAC1 or 2 because most all you guages would not work and it would require alot of rigging.
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hello mackpro what i have found is that they are experimenting whit def and scr from 2004. we have some trucks running now for 4 years whit scr and def fluid about 200000 miles i never heard any big issues.now the daf company has trucks whit eev engines they are running now for more than a year those engines are 50%cleaner than our euro 5 trucks.you can read this yourself on www.daf.com this site is also in englisch.
EEV stands for Enhanced enviromentally-freindly vehicles (50% fewer soot particles than euro 5 emission values)these trucks have scr and a particular filter.i think when you visit more websites off europeen truckbuilders there is more info for you.i hope i could help you a little i like the old ways better no computers in trucks no speed restrictors no tachograaf.take the toolbox to fix the truck and keep going and less paperwork greetings from the netherlands rene MACK FOREVER
Thanks for the info, I will check that link out.
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hello guys we have on our company 3 ibc tanks from 1000 liters whit def thats the easy way to do and the cheapest way our chef says we can only tank def at our company and only in emergency at the gas station.iff you run out off def its a offence in europe you have a economic offence and the lawofficers can see that in your computer the price is about 1250 euro for this.so you dont forget to fill the def tank.but the best way for trucking companys is to buy there own def tanks.greetings rene MACK FOREVER
In the Netherlands do your engines have DPF exhaust filters on the and the SCR systems or do they just have the SCR system? How is the SCR system been working (breakdowns)? How long have you had SCR overthere?
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Ahhhhhhhhhh...... no. We have had alot of trucks get struck by lighting around here (farm trucks parked in fields) and it always fries both ECM's and sometimes the ABS ECM and the AM/FM radio but never have we had a wiper motor screw up for lighting striking. My buddy was driving his CL when it got struck and it blowed the RH rear out side tire off of the rim and fried the ECM's but his wiper motor still worked.
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Terra is the company that makes it (TerraCair) I don't have any part numbers at the moment either...
At a Mack SCR meeting we had a month ago, they showed us the 2 gal jugs and a 200 gal (I think) collapsible tote with pump that we could get. This truck I think was a Mack show/test truck as it had no company name, no engine tag and had lots of chrome on it. It did have 22,000 miles on it. The driver didn't talk much only to say he liked the truck.
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I saw a few of them at Uptime...
Get ready to stock Exhaust Fluid! LOL These units also have a replaceable filter on the reservoir along with an integrated pump that will probably go bad often!
The driver asked we had any DEF or know where he could get some. We did not know. I called Mack and asked for a part# and the guy said "Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh........call back tommorow" We would like to have a few 2gal jugs just incase.
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was driving in a thunder storm about 1:00 am and my windshield wipers stoped working. i pulled over mesed with the switch got nothing rain eased up. so i took off, after 5 min. or so needed a wipe so i tried em again and they worked. only had to go another 5 or 10 miles and they worked fine, i thought they had trpped the breaker and it had time to kool off and reset, but i was afraid there was a problem, called the mack store to schedule a repair, didn't want to get caught out in the rain so to speak. when i told the service manager what happend,he told me a close lighting strike would cause that, and there was nothing to worrie about. it was hard to believe, but so far i havn't had any more problems. any boudy else ever heard of this?
The wiper motor itself had a thermal circuit breaker inside of it. In 2004 they lowered the cutout temp in the motors. We had a driver who would leave his wipers on when it was just misting outside. The somewhat dry windshield was to much drag for the wiper motor and it would pop the thermal breaker and then reset it self again. I talked to a Mack engineer and he gave me a part # for an older motor with the higher cutout temp and everything was Ok after that. I dont have that part# no more, lost my notes. We replaced alot of motors, switches and also check the linkage as it goes bad and makes the motor work extra hard and could overheat.
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The last CL I was able to find had a build date of 9-11-06, these were CL733 with IXS Cummins, the truck were listed as a 2007 model year. Never hear of a CL with a MP engine. We have a few CL's with 60 series Detroits around here. I'm working on a CL with a 490 XT in it right now, one of the best trucks Mack ever built.
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This is to MACKPRO68, can you tell me why Volvo puts shims in this kit? It definitly is the same axle and king pin setup.I understand that mack says no but I now have the volvo kit here in front of me and it has shims in it. Is this in case the surface in the spindle that the bearing cup sets on wears or is this just another way for volvo to make more money? There has to be a reason they are in the kit. Just looking for more insite and trying to learn. thanks
I got out my Mack FXL overhaul manual to double check and read it again. Still cant find any thing about shims, no pictures or mention of them. I pulled it upon the parts dept computer and it too showes no shims. We are a Mack only dealer and the last time we ordered parts to overhaul a FXL kingpin (about 3 months ago)we had to order all parts separately. There was no kit available, at least for us Mack guys.
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Its a CH613 built on 9/28/00. It came with a 355/380 but was later upgraded to a 400hp. It shows rockwell trans and rears. It was a fleet truck with 23 others built along with it, all 23 exactly the same. I can find out more if needed.
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Does your leaf spring shackles and front spring pin have grease fittings? If not, you have the Maintenance-Free spring pins. There is a Mack service bulletin "SB131006" about converting it over to the greasable style. It involves buying new springs, pins and shackles. We have done about 5 or 6 and it really improves ride or so the drivers say. It also gets rid of that loud "pop" noise at a low speed turn where the spring slaps the shackle. I just realized this is for CXN only models and you have a CX, let me do some more checking as they might have this for a CX.
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There is no shims on an FXL axle. I talked to an engineer after we had some with out of spec play and he said after the top bearing and race get worn in and mated, you need to retoruque the top nut. After we did this all was good. He said Mack had alot of kinpins replaced under warranty when there was nothing wrong with them other than they needed to be retightened. 95% of the ones we tore down, there was nothing wrong with them, just retighten top nut. The warranty on most FXL axles is 3yr/300000miles even on most dump trucks.
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The cup issue has slowed down alot. We are now starting to see the cup issue with the older 04 emission MP7 (non DPF). I did 2 of these in the last 3 weeks. On Saturday we towed in a 2010 (non SCR) CXU with 2 blown cups/washers. This truck was on its 2nd or 3rd trip (very low miles). The engine had all the new stuff in it. We think it was improper tourque on the injectors. The new parts (injector washer and hold down and download) have seem to fix cup issue. We have never had one come back that we installed these parts on. I dont know what happened on the 2010 CXU, I hope it was just a fluke.
First Scr Truck To Stop In.
in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
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Thanks for the info, we got busy with other things and havent had a chance to follow up on looking for the part#.