Mackpro

Whats your MID #, SID/PID/PPID# and FMI#. Hundreds of different code possiblities.

When we get a used truck in with one of thoes APADS boxes on it , we take it off and throw it away. One of the worst things I have ever seen mack put on a truck. If you dont have an air fan clutch its real easy to remove. Just unplug all the connectors from the APDS going to the engine harness, You should now only have 3 plugs, 1 single wire plug for the compressor, 1 double wire plug for the switch on drier and another double wire plug for the high pressure sensor (for air fan clutch only) on the line between the drier and condensor. Sometimes you have to buy an new drier to condensor line that has a place for the high pressure switch(only if you have an air fan clutch). Buy a factory standard high/low pressure switch and install on the drier and plug it in and thats it. If you have a air fan clutch you also need the high pressure switch. I can get you part# if you want. The APADS turns the standard simple mack a/c wiring into a nightmare.

When the MP engines came out, we had to use the new Mack/volvo VCADS software to read codes, do programing, ect, ect. It was a P.O.S. and we had all kinds of problems. I was on the phone with volvo IT alot and they were all very nice and helpfull. We would be on the phone sometimes for an hour with them to get things fixed. I actually have more faith in them than I do with the new One Call/ volvo Tech Support. But what she said was not cool and I hope she learned her lesson. With the VCADS issue, there was a rumor going around that volvo made the "Mack only" VCADS with errors in it on purpose so the Mack dealers would have to call volvo IT to get it fixed. Then Mack would get charged $$$ by volvo IT to fix it's own screw up. The fist thing volvo IT ask you when they answer the phone is "whats your dealer code" and if its a Mack dealer "get the meter running".

We have seen this alot, loose yoke on back of trans, remove MPH sensor and see if you can spin tone wheel with a screwdriver. We see it alot with Mack trans and a couple times with fullers. Did have one with shorted out tail lights sending 12Volts back up brake/turn signal wires and computer thinks your hitting the brake. Goodluck

Factory spec for that year is 29-37 psi of boost at full load. Take the truck to a Mack Dealer and tell them you want the "throttle responce program" downloaded on the VECU ( and they will calibrate the throttle pedal) and any new software/datafile for the engine and vehicle ECM's. Its a free download from Mack, you should only pay labor, 2 hrs max. We do this to all AI engines and it make a big difference. It helps with the poor throttle responce between the gears. Most AI 427 and AI460 are the exact same engines but with different datafiles for different HP levels. The dealer can submitt a HP conversion request form to Mack, sometimes its just a free download to up it to 460HP, + labor to install program of course. However I did have a 2005 CT713 with a AI427 and requested a HP conversion to 460 HP and was denied, I called the engineer and he said on some AI's they couldn't bump up because of EPA reasons? Good Luck

How in tarnation do I reset the password so I can program some PTO parameters with Vcads Pro? Any help would be appreciated....

Dealer has to redownload the datafiles in the VECU to clear out the passwords. The EECU (engine ecu) might have a password in it too so I would have both redownloaded to clean them out. We do it all the time here.

Hello Mack fans..... I have a CH 613 with a 460 HP and the Oil temp has been running up around 200 to 210 with no big load on. Water temp is running around

170 and Oil pressure is 60 to 70 psi running down the road . My temp always did run about 20 hotter then water temp on a regular basis. Is there anything I should check like oil cooler. I just Changed the oil and put Baldwin Filters on .Would the spinner have anything to do with the temp running hotter. Any help would be nice.

world_wide

We saw this compalint alot years ago, I think your OK, see attached service buliten

hello guys-i'm happy i found a site dedicated to the bulldog!

i'm going to be buying a 94 cl713 with elite option

can someone please tell me what this is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i've been around macks my whole life and have never had this option.

i have seen trucks with the emblems and thats it , then i have seen

trucks with woodgrain dash and power windows.

so needless to say i'm a little confused about what ELITE really is!

does anyone know what this package really consists of?

THANKS IN ADVANCE

Volvo isn't killing Mack, the stupid F@ing emissions laws are. Mack isn't the only truck furnished with a DPF which needs to regen, everyone must have one. Simple as that. Cummins, CAT, Detroit, International, Isuzu, Hino Etc. all have DPF's. There is no avoiding them. And did everyone forget about the ASET which was a nightmare even without the DPF? The ASET was not a Volvo blunder.

You want to curse someone then curse the EPA and all the loud mouth lobbyists who pushed for the tougher regs. Why do you think the E9 went the way of the dinosaur? Because Mack couldn't push it past 500HP without the EPA levying a fine against them for millions. That's also why CAT is bailing out. ACERT is a failure and come 2010 they are pulling the plug on the highway engine business. International has somehow worked out a deal with CAT to provide a C15/16 based MAXXForce engine. It might not even use any CAT systems such as fuel or emissions, International might design their own.

If no one buys new Macks because of bitterness toward Volvo then guess what? Mack goes to the chopping block. So buy new Granites, Pinnacles, Titans MR's etc. Spec all Mack components, show Volvo there is still a loyal following. You can piss and moan all you want and buy used Macks. That's cool but it doesn't show Volvo that Mack is still in demand, their quarterly report compiled by the bean counters does. No sales means its time to restructure.

Show Volvo there is still demand for a true as can be Mack truck. Ignore the fact that under the hood is a Volvo engine with a Mack logo. Yea it sucks but that's the way it is, there is no going back. Image if demand drops to the point that Volvo just sticks a Mack transmission and axles under a VH with a Mack hood and sells that as a Mack. Autocar all over again. Do we want that to happen?

Keep the faith.

This is one of the best , most true post I have seen in awhile. I have worked at a Mack Dealer for 22years now. The EPA is the one killing us not Volvo. However I dont like Volvo (or Volvo trucks)owning Mack but thats out of our control. As far as the MP engines go, I would go out and order a new one today if I needed a truck. The bugs have finally been worked out (new injector cup washers, new roller rockers, 7th injector purge kit and other updates) We have sold several GU's that stay local and we do nothing but regular oil changes on them. I hate to say this and will probably get laughed at and booed but if Mack was going to get bought by someone and forced to use their engine, I wish it was Hino (Toyota, I think) Their DPF engines are awesome and I wish we were a dealer. I have said many times that if Hino built a class 8 large truck, it would put them all out of business.

what year did th e4 valve head make it's debut? did they overlap for any reasons?

My 1984 Mack tune up book does list the 4VH but the 1983 tune up book does not. My 1989 book does still list the E6 2 valve motor but I'm missing my 1990 book and the 1991 book makes no metion of the E6 2V. I have most of the Mack tune up books from 1972 and up and there handy.

I CHECKED FOR AIR RESTRICTION. EVERY THING SEEMS OK. TURBO CHARGER IS OK. JAKE BRAKE SOLINOIDS OK. FUEL INJECTORS OK. IN AN EARLIER RESPONSE FJH EXPLAINED HOW THE ECONOVANCE WORKS WHEN THE OIL PRES COMES UP THE ENGINE CLEARS UP AND RUNS GOOD. IT SEEMS LIKE EVEN AS THE OIL PRESSURE COMES UP THE ENGINE NEVER CLEARS UP. WELL THATS WHERE I AM NOW. THANKS, RIPP

As far as oil supply line to the econovace, do you have a small steel line from the engine block (below the fuel pump) to the econovance or do you have a larger braided hose(stratoflex) that comes from around the front of the engine around the alternator area to the econovance?

Hey guys, a little help here. I am working on a 1999 CH613 with Hendrickson HAS air ride suspension and was wondering what the air bag settings should be. After looking at the truck, I am thinking that maybe the air bags are adjusted too high. I have replace both torque bars on the rearends and question number two is should I put all the shims-washer spacers, back in the original position.

You wouldn't believe the expense we go thru to communicate with these trucks. The laptop alone is around 4000.00. So with that said, I don't think some charges are that out of line.

I just ordered another laptop through Mack. "Toughbook" with all software already loaded, it was $4100.00 and that was with out the interface to hook to the truck. We have had our other "Toughbook" for almost 4 years and it has been great, it was worth the money. What really bad is there are no troubleshooting books for 2008 and up engines, it all on the software on the computer.

A year or so ago I posted a thread with pics of a 2000 CX613 with a regular ETECH engine with a home made propane injection system on it. It was in the shop for a service, didnt get to talk to the owner or driver about preformance or MPG.

Just a update-I spent four hours working on the injection lines that were/are leaking. I took everything loose and pulled the injection lines, cleaned and inspected the end of the lines and also made sure it was clean inside where the injection line meets the injector. I put everything back together, taking care to make sure the lines went back in nice and straight. All this work and guess what-they leak just as bad now as when I started. I am almost certain it is the orings on the injectors that is leaking fuel. I debated pulling the injectors but I pulled the valve cover off and it looks like the whole rack has to come out to get down to the injectors. That is more than I care to take on right now so I am gong to send the truck back to the mechanic that replaced the head gasket. I will update again when we find out exactly what is wrong. Thanks for all the advice.

Its not that the injector line is leaking , its the o-rings on the injector it self that are leaking. The injectors have o-rings on them to keep the "return fuel" (fuel the injector dosent use) in a certain area so it can pass through drilled passages in the head and get returned back to the fuel tank. When the o-rings get damaged or go bad the return fuel rises up and into the area where the injector line comes through the side of the head and meets the injector and the fuel has no where to go but pass the threads on the injector line and down the side of the engine. We see this all the time. In the 2002 and up CCRS and ASET engines there is no fuel return in the heads/injectors.

Haha...it's hard to describe the sound it makes. More like if you whistle with your lips at a constant low(er) tone. I guess you'd have to ride along to get the idea. Reason I asked is because my dad used to tractor pull his regular farm tractor...just cranked up the farmer screw...and the stock turbo on the JD made a helacious scream. It ran like a raped ape, but he claimed the turbo was bad.

And I thought the 427 was supposed to produce 24-32lbs...?

All the Mack tune-up spec books I have looked at "1996-2004 "says 33 psi is about the max boost pressure you should see for a 427 HP engine. I think the ASET "AC' engine might be higher but the ASET "AI dump truck" version should still be around 33 max. I would say anything above 30 psi is good. However I have seen and drove trucks that put out more than what the specs say. I have seen alot of blown intake manifold gaskets on 99-03 engines( mostly around #1 cylinder) and air compressor intake piping problems that leak boost pressure.

Heres the wirig to the fan clutch

Gentlemen. My 2004 Vision w460 has a viscose cooling fan that stays engaged at all times. The error code flashes for "FAN RELAY" but I can't find the fan relay all I can find is a 15amp fuse in the engine compartment firewall box. The 15amp fuse is not blown so can someone please tell me where the fan relay is located??

It is not a Horton air activated type fan clutch it only has 5 electrical wires going to the clutch hub. I have checked all 5 wires in the clutch hub harness and all are good with no corrosion or breaks. Any help is greatly appreciated--Thanks-Jerry

The fan clutch you have is the Behr electric viscous fan clutch, made in germany. Unlike the air fan clutches, it never really totaly "freewheels", its always turning. With the engine off and key off, grab the fan blade and try to turn it, if its so "locked up" that it slips the belts or you cant turn it, it's bad and you need a new fan clutch. When you start it up, the fan should be engaged and roaring for around 10 minutes at 1100-1500 rpm then slowly the roaring will get softer and softer and the fan will disengage, this is normal. I have seen the AC high side pressure switch and wiring be bad and cause the fan to stay engaged. I dont belive there is a "fan relay'" all the wires come from the engine ECU.

how much psi a turbo for e-tech 460-490???

my e-tech 400 has 32 psi

For a 1999-2000 Etech 460 and 460XT(490HP) the Mack tune-up book says 27-35psi. The 460XT is the exact same engine/turbo/injectors just different download and a 100 Ftlbs more torque.

Boy do I fell Bad on my reply

fjh or Mackpro68 was that all E7's or just E-teck ??????????

I seen a valve seal soak the gasket and leaked like that (I jumped the gun)

I dont remember the problem on the older E-7's, I have only seen it happen on the ETECH style engines, including the ASET's.

The bottom stud hole on the exhaust manifold is drilled all the way into the push tube hole. Oil can leak past the threads, so like fjh said, remove the stud and put some good silicone on it but put it back in at the same depth because we have seen them go in to deep and hit the push tube. I have also seen people put to much silicone on the stud and it gets pushed into the push tube cavity and blocks off oil to the roller lifter or gets between the push tube and lifter and causes a miss in engine. We put the silicone on the stud starting about an 1/4" from the end of the stud.

I found 5140MX and 5140M3X but no 5140M2X . The two I did find were for 325-350 HP VMAC engines. Boost pressures for these engines were any where from min 15psi to max 28psi.

You can take it to a Mack dealer and thay can call Mack and have a "throttle responce file " turned on and reflash and download both ECM's. We do it all the time, helps out with the "deadspots" between shift. We only charge about an hour and a half labor and no parts for this.

The only time both lights come on is for low coolant, (except for 2008 and up DPF equipped Macks). Could be a coolant sensor wire shorted in the harness on the engine.

The 395C version of the MP7 puts out 1560 lb-ft of torque while the 405E and 405M only put out 1460 and 1480 lb-ft of torque. Look at the sticker on your valve cover and see what you have now.