Mackpro

I have a 2007 Mack CHN 613. The cooling fan is on all the time. Will not disengage. I have replace fan clutch($700) and check the fuses. Is there something else I need to look for or check? This fan clutch is all electric. Thank for any help.

If its the Behr electric viscus fan clutch, it never really fully disengages like the air fan clucthes, At the shop we can easly hook up the laptop and see whats causing the fan to stay engaged (A/C high pressure). If every thing is right the only thing that turns on the fan clutch is high coolant temp, high intake temp and high AC pressure. I would first make sure the ing key is off and unplug all 3 engine ECM connectors and see if the pins are corroded from antifreeze seeping into the harness from the low coolant sensor (seen this many times).

DPF, we don't need no steenking DPF! Those Euro III and IV emission MP8 engines are pretty neat, way cleaner than what we're used to, kind of like the '04 MP7. Don't know if they've had injector cup problems with them.

If you had an MP8 with conical injectors and cups, no EGR system and no SCR/DPF, you have an almost perfect engine! We would never have to work on them and they would sell faster than we could build them!

Coitainly, nyuck nyuck!

Thanks for posting it. I like pictures instead of trying to type what it looks like.

Notice no DPF or SCR on that Military GU, cant be broke down or doing a parked regen in a warzone!

Hey guys,Im having a bit of a issue with a 2004 CX 613 Mack tractor. A month ago after a 150 mile trip up to Albany NY, the expansion tank in the truck filled up with coolant and built up pressure like it was going to burst. I shut it down and cracked open the line on the upper radiator hose to relieve the pressure. Once I did that I was able to hear the coolant start flowing through the engine again and I drained out the expansion tank. I refilled the upper tank and kept a eye on it the ride back. The truck never overheated or ran hot the entire time this happened but it just pressurized the expansion tank.

When I got back to the shop I installed 2 new thermostats and found that the radiator cap wouldn't hold pressure so I replaced that too. I have no oil in the coolant, no coolant in the oil, no white smoke, no bubbles in the coolant, no exhaust smell from the coolant, no coolant consumption,and nothing that would point towards head gasket. I also checked the air tanks to be sure the compressor wasn't at fault.

I drove the truck hard all around the neighborhood and lugged it down as much as I could but I couldn't replicate the problem so I figured it was fixed. That was until I took the truck out on a short haul into NJ and had the same issue within the first 40 miles of the trip. Now here's what I noticed. If I baby the truck and keep it running at 1/2 throttle with no load, the temp and the coolant will be normal and not build pressure. If I keep it at full throttle with a load on, it will build up pressure and start blowing out the expansion tank. On some extended drives at full throttle with the cruise control on, I would get the electronic malfunction light on the dash and I would loose all turbo boost for a few seconds then it would clear and the truck would pull like normal. Lately it hasn't been doing that but started building this pressure under a load. I been reading about the EGR coolers failing so I'm wondering if this would sound like something related to that problem or am I looking at something more serious?

Within the last 2 yrs,the oil cooler filter was replaced. The water pump was replaced 3 months ago due to it leaking out the weep hole along with the water filter and a full coolant flush was done.

Thanks for any info.

That flush that was done might have broke loose some scale in the block and now its clogged the oil cooler inlet screen and now overheated the EGR cooler and cracked it causing coolant push. I would first pull out that oil cooler inlet screen in the "Y" pipe that connects the lower radiator piping the the oil cooler. Rasler probably has that Mack service bulletin and can post it as I dont have it on this computer. Hopefully it didnt crack the EGR cooler. Its easy to change a EGR cooler but $$$$$

Yup you'll have to knock grand of of the price with that program on there It devalues the real estate .

As bad as I hate Cummins, I would rather work on a Cummins using the Insite program than a Mack MP using the VCADS/PTT/GD program.

Finally installed the decals and did a little polishing!

Freaking Sweet!! Dont put it on the road, its to nice and one of akind. A used truck shop down the road from me has a nice MH for sale, dont know the specs of it but its just plain white. Not to many left around here that are not beat to hell.

We could have filled a 5gallon bucket with all the soot we cleaned out of that EGR cooler. About the worst I have ever seen. Buts as long as it's dry power and not caked in there we are good. Next on the list is a air compressor as its pumping oil like crazy and we will change the air drier filter as well. I was glad to have an ASET to work on today as it was the only non-MP engine in the house. The MP's were dropping like flies today. Glad you made it in today as tommorrow I will be at another Zoo, StLouis Zoo that is with the wife and kids.

Doe it comes with a nice Panasonic Toughbook too?

Toughbook not included but will let it go for 4K and thats with our lovely Mack Preimum Tech Tool/VCADS installed and you know how good that is!

Your EGR block off plate is ready if you want to try it.

i was having a/c issues last fall schraeder valve leaking, i let it go till a few weeks ago.

i notice now the fan runs continuios wen the a/c is on.

it hurts the boost 5 to 7 psi. i never noticed it before????

with a/c turned off everything is fine???????????????

high oil temp????? i just cleand the screen 10,000 miles ago.small leaks(hose clamps) and a hose. hve resuled in a complete coolant change 4 times in the last 100,000 miles.

if mackpro reads this i need shocks for steer axle, ride hight valve drives, egr. cooler cleaned.

what do you think about a egr emergencey kit???????

a U shaped pipe to bypass the coolant, and a block plate for the egr????????? maybe get me in without a tow?????????

We had some of the parts rest will be here in the AM. As long as its not blowing coolant out, leave the EGR coolant hoses hooked up. I wonder if you just unplug the EGR valve connector if it would derate the engine? Come to think of it I never tried it!

Great info for me....thank you

We have lots of pre DPF MP-7's running here. About 7 CXP's , 9 CTP tractors and 2 CTP dump trucks. One of the CTP dumps must be speced just right because it out runs and out pulls all the 427HP CV's around here and it only has a 395HP engine. We have replaced turbos and or actuators on most early on under warranty (nut would spin off the impeller shaft). Exhaust manifold gaskets do leak sometimes. The fuel filter stands go bad/plug up and cause low fuel pressure on a few. The EGR coolers sometimes leak, mostly external leaks but sometimes inside and wipes out the Mass Flow sensor just like the ASET engines do. Sometimes the Mas Flow sensor get wiped out by condensation the the EGR cooler, there is a reprogram/download for this. The worst thing we have seen is the oil pickup tube in the pan is a real long tube that is held up to the bottom of the block by a strap, sometimes this strap breaks and the pick up tube angles down to the bottom of the pan and sucks to the pan and causes a restriction of oil supply to the engine . This has happened to a few of the CXP's with forward sump oil pans. I cant remember if the CTP is forward sump or not. We havent seen any cam or injector cup problems here at our shop with the older MP-7s. There injector cup design was different/beter on the pre-DPF enines. The CTP tractors here are getting great MPG however they are turned down to 58MPH.

Yes on pre-DPF and yes on updated harness, after the first one as it was under warranty.

If these aggravating qwirks were tended to without frothing at that $104 per hr labor rate they might have something.

Thank you for the reply and the "GO" for now vote. I watch the oil and water temp too much but with a haywire Pyro reading that is my release from worrying whats going on in there.

Best thing is to unplug it and drive on. Being unplugged it will make the code active for an open circuit sensor and not derate engine. If left plugged up and it starts pegging the guage the ECM could think it really is hot and derate the engine. We put alot of these sensors in the pre DPF MP-7's. We keep a box full on the parts shelf. The ones with the black connector are the "new style". Also there is a one year warranty on these sensors. If you paid a Mack dealer to put it in and it fails/acts up and sets a code within a year take the truck back with your proof of purchase and Mack will pay parts and labor to install it. We have one CTP that has come back 3 times in ayear all paid for. Also same thing with the humidity sensor on the air cleaner piping they seem to go out often as well.

Just being nosey. What types of topics are on the corporate and dealer forum that are off limits to others on the forum.

Mainly bitching about warranty and PTT/GD ( the troubleshooting software for the MP engine that we have to use as there are no books anymore)

It's mounted on the driver side fire wall

With the engine cold replace the metal radiator cap with a new one ( make sure its a 10 pound and not a 16 pound) and make sure its seats and seals good in the top "surge tank". The top half ( where the metal radiator cap is) is called the surge tank which you could say is actually part of the radiator as it is directly connected to the radiator and is under the same pressure as the radiator. The bottom half is the overflow tank/jug. When the pressure build up in the surge tank and excess 10 psi the cap opens and vents coolant into the bottom half/ overflow. With the engine cold I would fill the top surge tank to the top and completely empty the bottom tank. Then go for a test drive. Many times we see drivers add coolant just to the overflow /bottom then when the top/surge tank does its normal vent into the lower/overflow jug its alread full then it has nowhere to go but out the small hole in the cap which gives the impression that it has a blown headgasket or other problem. Also check the small line between the top surge tank and the top of the upper radiator hose. This hose can get brittle and come apart inside and cause all kinds of weird problems (air trapped in cooling system). Take it off and see if you can blow through it both ways and make sure its still flexable and not hard and brittle.

thanks , a buddy of mine told me about pdq , any opinion,?http://www.pdqperformance.com/category-s/286.htm

I have seen the Blixton boxes on 92-98 Macks (before ETECH/ASET style engines) with decent results but haven't heard anyone runnin the newer style box. www.rochesterfuel.com had a good listing of Mack performance injectors ( stage 1,2 and 3)at very good prices but they are updating their website now. Their performance injectors were cheaper than our cost on Mack injectors. I called and spoke to thwm months ago and they really knew their stuff.

we just expected more on a fresh rebuild. i will check the rocker shaft plugs

On the Etech style engines they do make a high volume oil pump that helps. On the older E-7's I dont know. I think the oil pump on the Etech style engines turns backwards compaired to the older E-7's. I know the auxilary shaft turns different because the P/S pumps that bolt on the front timing cover wont interechange, found out the hard way!

My E-7 350 has always had low oil pressure at idle,about 12 lbs,everyone I know says the same thing about the e-7,mack says that is whithin spec and no problem that's the way they are.

Yea dont worry till it goes below 10 PSI at hot idle, its common.

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=11429&st=0&p=43360&hl=granite&fromsearch=1entry43360 Check out this thread. Copy and paste.

bump

Sorry for the delay, Your truck needs the step 12 B software updates, look for some past threads about low power on Granites and it will explain it all. Also get the valves adjusted and have the rocker arm hold down bolts replaced ( very important!!!!!!!). A check of fuel supply pressure would be good also. A good pressure testing of the aftercooler and intake system would be next, then a test drive with a manual pressure guage hooked up to check actual boost pressure and see if it's in spec. Tire size, gears and trans (your build record says it has a mack T310M trans)all seem they should work together well. Your 400 HP might be alittle weak as most but not all guys here run 427 or 460's. We have some 400 HP CV's around here and there not really being blow away by the 427 & 460's. It could be bumped to a 427 with a download and turbo and injectors. I do alot of HP coversions at our dealership. For some year models the EPA wont Mack turn the existing AI engines up past 427. 460 would be nice. Who ever does your peograming need to check and make sure the tire size and gear ratio are all enter correctly in the ECM's and all other parameters are set wide open. Also make sure your engine fan is not locked in all the time and it will pull 30-50 HP.

Evertime I let it idle more than 5 minutes or so it starts to shoot anti freeze out the over flow. Then if I start to drive it it quits. Or if I just drive it and shut it off evertime i stop for awhile (stop lights or signs are fine) nothing happens. Please help. Thanks.

Is your over flow jug ( the jug with the plsatic cap, not metal radiator cap) mounted on the passenger side frame rail by the radiator or is it on the driver side fire wall?

This is my thinking why they came out with the medium duty granite. To make it less exspensive for poeple that cant affrord the hd grantie and can buy the md grantie and have the same looks. Thses days its all about the price so they can sell more. Less is more! Does anybody know on here if the mack Grantite sales went down? Also will this sleeper be avialable for the HD grantie? Also a two piece windshield for for the Titan? Why this option and what is the purpose of a two piece windshield for the Titan? Maybe mackpro can shed some light on this post. Thanks.

Terry E Davis of Johnson City NY

When I first heard of this truck I was told it was a lightweight Granite with a small cummins engine. I was also told it would have a real short hood (possibly a Volvo hood) and would kinda look like the Ford L9000 that Coke and Pepsi used to pull their bottle trailers in the 90's. I was told it would only be sold to city governments and certain customers due to avoid having people overloading (large dumpbeds and such) them then complaining of low power (not enough enine) and other overload failures. Mack had this problem when they made some lightweight RD's years ago with an E5 engine (midliner engine?) then people tried to turn them into tri-axle quarry trucks. Also the salesmen at the dealerships were mad that you cant get it in single axle! Whats the use in being lightweight if you cant order it as a single axle? On the one piece windshield I heard it was only for the CXU and CHU and now the new medium duty Granite. I heard they stopped offering it in the GU (Granite) due to cab flex cracking the 1 piece windshield during off road and severe duty use.

That makes sense because my fuel gage just quit workin. Thank you!

Hopefully its just the sending unit. Sometimes times its the wiring but not often. The wires go from the sending unit in the tank to the cab ECM. If something is wrong with the dash guage or dash cluster it wont set a code so its probably just the sending unit.

im in an 01vision. Every now and then the lightning bolt comes on and somtimes it will go off, other times it stays on. I did the diagnosis through the cruise and it flashes 6-1. Any help would be great.

Fuel tank sending unit is a 6-1 code.

Not my favorite color combination. A different exterior color would look nicer.

Somebody got their ride "PIMPED"!