Mackpro

We could have filled a 5gallon bucket with all the soot we cleaned out of that EGR cooler. About the worst I have ever seen. Buts as long as it's dry power and not caked in there we are good. Next on the list is a air compressor as its pumping oil like crazy and we will change the air drier filter as well. I was glad to have an ASET to work on today as it was the only non-MP engine in the house. The MP's were dropping like flies today. Glad you made it in today as tommorrow I will be at another Zoo, StLouis Zoo that is with the wife and kids.

Doe it comes with a nice Panasonic Toughbook too?

Toughbook not included but will let it go for 4K and thats with our lovely Mack Preimum Tech Tool/VCADS installed and you know how good that is!

Your EGR block off plate is ready if you want to try it.

i was having a/c issues last fall schraeder valve leaking, i let it go till a few weeks ago.

i notice now the fan runs continuios wen the a/c is on.

it hurts the boost 5 to 7 psi. i never noticed it before????

with a/c turned off everything is fine???????????????

high oil temp????? i just cleand the screen 10,000 miles ago.small leaks(hose clamps) and a hose. hve resuled in a complete coolant change 4 times in the last 100,000 miles.

if mackpro reads this i need shocks for steer axle, ride hight valve drives, egr. cooler cleaned.

what do you think about a egr emergencey kit???????

a U shaped pipe to bypass the coolant, and a block plate for the egr????????? maybe get me in without a tow?????????

We had some of the parts rest will be here in the AM. As long as its not blowing coolant out, leave the EGR coolant hoses hooked up. I wonder if you just unplug the EGR valve connector if it would derate the engine? Come to think of it I never tried it!

Great info for me....thank you

We have lots of pre DPF MP-7's running here. About 7 CXP's , 9 CTP tractors and 2 CTP dump trucks. One of the CTP dumps must be speced just right because it out runs and out pulls all the 427HP CV's around here and it only has a 395HP engine. We have replaced turbos and or actuators on most early on under warranty (nut would spin off the impeller shaft). Exhaust manifold gaskets do leak sometimes. The fuel filter stands go bad/plug up and cause low fuel pressure on a few. The EGR coolers sometimes leak, mostly external leaks but sometimes inside and wipes out the Mass Flow sensor just like the ASET engines do. Sometimes the Mas Flow sensor get wiped out by condensation the the EGR cooler, there is a reprogram/download for this. The worst thing we have seen is the oil pickup tube in the pan is a real long tube that is held up to the bottom of the block by a strap, sometimes this strap breaks and the pick up tube angles down to the bottom of the pan and sucks to the pan and causes a restriction of oil supply to the engine . This has happened to a few of the CXP's with forward sump oil pans. I cant remember if the CTP is forward sump or not. We havent seen any cam or injector cup problems here at our shop with the older MP-7s. There injector cup design was different/beter on the pre-DPF enines. The CTP tractors here are getting great MPG however they are turned down to 58MPH.

Yes on pre-DPF and yes on updated harness, after the first one as it was under warranty.

If these aggravating qwirks were tended to without frothing at that $104 per hr labor rate they might have something.

Thank you for the reply and the "GO" for now vote. I watch the oil and water temp too much but with a haywire Pyro reading that is my release from worrying whats going on in there.

Best thing is to unplug it and drive on. Being unplugged it will make the code active for an open circuit sensor and not derate engine. If left plugged up and it starts pegging the guage the ECM could think it really is hot and derate the engine. We put alot of these sensors in the pre DPF MP-7's. We keep a box full on the parts shelf. The ones with the black connector are the "new style". Also there is a one year warranty on these sensors. If you paid a Mack dealer to put it in and it fails/acts up and sets a code within a year take the truck back with your proof of purchase and Mack will pay parts and labor to install it. We have one CTP that has come back 3 times in ayear all paid for. Also same thing with the humidity sensor on the air cleaner piping they seem to go out often as well.

Just being nosey. What types of topics are on the corporate and dealer forum that are off limits to others on the forum.

Mainly bitching about warranty and PTT/GD ( the troubleshooting software for the MP engine that we have to use as there are no books anymore)

It's mounted on the driver side fire wall

With the engine cold replace the metal radiator cap with a new one ( make sure its a 10 pound and not a 16 pound) and make sure its seats and seals good in the top "surge tank". The top half ( where the metal radiator cap is) is called the surge tank which you could say is actually part of the radiator as it is directly connected to the radiator and is under the same pressure as the radiator. The bottom half is the overflow tank/jug. When the pressure build up in the surge tank and excess 10 psi the cap opens and vents coolant into the bottom half/ overflow. With the engine cold I would fill the top surge tank to the top and completely empty the bottom tank. Then go for a test drive. Many times we see drivers add coolant just to the overflow /bottom then when the top/surge tank does its normal vent into the lower/overflow jug its alread full then it has nowhere to go but out the small hole in the cap which gives the impression that it has a blown headgasket or other problem. Also check the small line between the top surge tank and the top of the upper radiator hose. This hose can get brittle and come apart inside and cause all kinds of weird problems (air trapped in cooling system). Take it off and see if you can blow through it both ways and make sure its still flexable and not hard and brittle.

thanks , a buddy of mine told me about pdq , any opinion,?http://www.pdqperformance.com/category-s/286.htm

I have seen the Blixton boxes on 92-98 Macks (before ETECH/ASET style engines) with decent results but haven't heard anyone runnin the newer style box. www.rochesterfuel.com had a good listing of Mack performance injectors ( stage 1,2 and 3)at very good prices but they are updating their website now. Their performance injectors were cheaper than our cost on Mack injectors. I called and spoke to thwm months ago and they really knew their stuff.

we just expected more on a fresh rebuild. i will check the rocker shaft plugs

On the Etech style engines they do make a high volume oil pump that helps. On the older E-7's I dont know. I think the oil pump on the Etech style engines turns backwards compaired to the older E-7's. I know the auxilary shaft turns different because the P/S pumps that bolt on the front timing cover wont interechange, found out the hard way!

My E-7 350 has always had low oil pressure at idle,about 12 lbs,everyone I know says the same thing about the e-7,mack says that is whithin spec and no problem that's the way they are.

Yea dont worry till it goes below 10 PSI at hot idle, its common.

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=11429&st=0&p=43360&hl=granite&fromsearch=1entry43360 Check out this thread. Copy and paste.

bump

Sorry for the delay, Your truck needs the step 12 B software updates, look for some past threads about low power on Granites and it will explain it all. Also get the valves adjusted and have the rocker arm hold down bolts replaced ( very important!!!!!!!). A check of fuel supply pressure would be good also. A good pressure testing of the aftercooler and intake system would be next, then a test drive with a manual pressure guage hooked up to check actual boost pressure and see if it's in spec. Tire size, gears and trans (your build record says it has a mack T310M trans)all seem they should work together well. Your 400 HP might be alittle weak as most but not all guys here run 427 or 460's. We have some 400 HP CV's around here and there not really being blow away by the 427 & 460's. It could be bumped to a 427 with a download and turbo and injectors. I do alot of HP coversions at our dealership. For some year models the EPA wont Mack turn the existing AI engines up past 427. 460 would be nice. Who ever does your peograming need to check and make sure the tire size and gear ratio are all enter correctly in the ECM's and all other parameters are set wide open. Also make sure your engine fan is not locked in all the time and it will pull 30-50 HP.

Evertime I let it idle more than 5 minutes or so it starts to shoot anti freeze out the over flow. Then if I start to drive it it quits. Or if I just drive it and shut it off evertime i stop for awhile (stop lights or signs are fine) nothing happens. Please help. Thanks.

Is your over flow jug ( the jug with the plsatic cap, not metal radiator cap) mounted on the passenger side frame rail by the radiator or is it on the driver side fire wall?

This is my thinking why they came out with the medium duty granite. To make it less exspensive for poeple that cant affrord the hd grantie and can buy the md grantie and have the same looks. Thses days its all about the price so they can sell more. Less is more! Does anybody know on here if the mack Grantite sales went down? Also will this sleeper be avialable for the HD grantie? Also a two piece windshield for for the Titan? Why this option and what is the purpose of a two piece windshield for the Titan? Maybe mackpro can shed some light on this post. Thanks.

Terry E Davis of Johnson City NY

When I first heard of this truck I was told it was a lightweight Granite with a small cummins engine. I was also told it would have a real short hood (possibly a Volvo hood) and would kinda look like the Ford L9000 that Coke and Pepsi used to pull their bottle trailers in the 90's. I was told it would only be sold to city governments and certain customers due to avoid having people overloading (large dumpbeds and such) them then complaining of low power (not enough enine) and other overload failures. Mack had this problem when they made some lightweight RD's years ago with an E5 engine (midliner engine?) then people tried to turn them into tri-axle quarry trucks. Also the salesmen at the dealerships were mad that you cant get it in single axle! Whats the use in being lightweight if you cant order it as a single axle? On the one piece windshield I heard it was only for the CXU and CHU and now the new medium duty Granite. I heard they stopped offering it in the GU (Granite) due to cab flex cracking the 1 piece windshield during off road and severe duty use.

That makes sense because my fuel gage just quit workin. Thank you!

Hopefully its just the sending unit. Sometimes times its the wiring but not often. The wires go from the sending unit in the tank to the cab ECM. If something is wrong with the dash guage or dash cluster it wont set a code so its probably just the sending unit.

im in an 01vision. Every now and then the lightning bolt comes on and somtimes it will go off, other times it stays on. I did the diagnosis through the cruise and it flashes 6-1. Any help would be great.

Fuel tank sending unit is a 6-1 code.

Not my favorite color combination. A different exterior color would look nicer.

Somebody got their ride "PIMPED"!

last six vin is 168750 , it has 12 24.5 but im gonna switch to 11r 24.5 , the axles ratio is 4.56 , the trans is 8LL, its tuned to a 400, its a triaxle, also i service the truck very often change the fuel filters, change the oil and air filter.

That VIN doesn't show up for any Mack ever built. On ever CV I have ever seen the last 6 of the vin starts with a 0. Does the dash have a manifold pressure ( turbo boost)guage in the upper left hand side of the dash? If so what does it read under a load? Spec is 28 to 36 psi. My friend has a CV713 with a 427, 4.42 gears, 11r24.5 tires and an 8LL trans and it runs great. With your gear ratio it should be good. Recheck the vin and see if its correct.

I think the Titans are out there, they are just illusive. Maybe 3P can tell us how many were built so far (if he hasn't already somewhere).

Just as an example, a local trucking company bought a bunch of Visions in '06, as well as one Pinnacle (CXP613). Since it was new at the dealer, I think I've only seen it twice in those 5 years, and I see a bunch of their trucks daily.

Out of our 3 stores we have only sold 1 and I never got to see it. We only sold 2 new trucks all of last year. We are having a much better year this year but no Titans planned to order.

Whats the last 6 of the VIN #, I can see if the Step 12B update has been done in the ECM. Like the post above, need more info, tire size would help.

I get in turn the key goes through relay sequence, then reads "103 STOP" is this an error code, bad sensor...any ideas?

When the Freedoms were first coming out I ordered 3 different service manuals for them. We never sold one , saw one or had one on the lot. The manuals I have are for the wiring, engine overhaul and AC/heating system. I looked for any fault code info but found none in the manuals I have.

We're running 2006 Mack CXN 613's and I was wondering if there are any other fan clutch manufacturers that make a clutch that could be substituted for the Behr fan clutch?

Just have your Mack dealer pull up a CXN613 that has a Horton fan drive/clutch and order what you need. You will need the fan clutch/hub, fan blade and air solinoid. The dealer will have to change the fan setting in the engine ecm to on/off. Also your fan belts will probably have to be replaced with longer or shorter ones. We have done a few but most people stick with the Behr even though they last only about 3 years max. Good thing about the behr is they dont come off and go through your radiator like the hortons do!

Heres some pics, pulled a new one off the shelf, Let me know if you need the other side (engine harness wire #'s).

I have a 2004 CX613 with a E7 427. When the truck runs right it has great power on low and top end. The truck occasionally loses power. The turbo sounds like it is not spooling up. When it loses power the exhaust gets loud as though the muffler was taken off going down the road. Loud on acceleration and slowing down with the Jake on. The electrical malfunction light only comes on some times. Have not been able to read any codes because the malfunction light does not stay on. Engine also idles rough. Almost appears that it loses a cylinder. Any help would be great. Please advise.

I was thinking EGR valve sticking open or most likley VGT/ turbo actuator. Really need to get a fault code out of it. Both of these parts are $1000 each so I wouldn't want to start throwing parts at it. Till you know for sure.