Mackpro

we just expected more on a fresh rebuild. i will check the rocker shaft plugs

On the Etech style engines they do make a high volume oil pump that helps. On the older E-7's I dont know. I think the oil pump on the Etech style engines turns backwards compaired to the older E-7's. I know the auxilary shaft turns different because the P/S pumps that bolt on the front timing cover wont interechange, found out the hard way!

My E-7 350 has always had low oil pressure at idle,about 12 lbs,everyone I know says the same thing about the e-7,mack says that is whithin spec and no problem that's the way they are.

Yea dont worry till it goes below 10 PSI at hot idle, its common.

bump

Sorry for the delay, Your truck needs the step 12 B software updates, look for some past threads about low power on Granites and it will explain it all. Also get the valves adjusted and have the rocker arm hold down bolts replaced ( very important!!!!!!!). A check of fuel supply pressure would be good also. A good pressure testing of the aftercooler and intake system would be next, then a test drive with a manual pressure guage hooked up to check actual boost pressure and see if it's in spec. Tire size, gears and trans (your build record says it has a mack T310M trans)all seem they should work together well. Your 400 HP might be alittle weak as most but not all guys here run 427 or 460's. We have some 400 HP CV's around here and there not really being blow away by the 427 & 460's. It could be bumped to a 427 with a download and turbo and injectors. I do alot of HP coversions at our dealership. For some year models the EPA wont Mack turn the existing AI engines up past 427. 460 would be nice. Who ever does your peograming need to check and make sure the tire size and gear ratio are all enter correctly in the ECM's and all other parameters are set wide open. Also make sure your engine fan is not locked in all the time and it will pull 30-50 HP.

Evertime I let it idle more than 5 minutes or so it starts to shoot anti freeze out the over flow. Then if I start to drive it it quits. Or if I just drive it and shut it off evertime i stop for awhile (stop lights or signs are fine) nothing happens. Please help. Thanks.

Is your over flow jug ( the jug with the plsatic cap, not metal radiator cap) mounted on the passenger side frame rail by the radiator or is it on the driver side fire wall?

This is my thinking why they came out with the medium duty granite. To make it less exspensive for poeple that cant affrord the hd grantie and can buy the md grantie and have the same looks. Thses days its all about the price so they can sell more. Less is more! Does anybody know on here if the mack Grantite sales went down? Also will this sleeper be avialable for the HD grantie? Also a two piece windshield for for the Titan? Why this option and what is the purpose of a two piece windshield for the Titan? Maybe mackpro can shed some light on this post. Thanks.

Terry E Davis of Johnson City NY

When I first heard of this truck I was told it was a lightweight Granite with a small cummins engine. I was also told it would have a real short hood (possibly a Volvo hood) and would kinda look like the Ford L9000 that Coke and Pepsi used to pull their bottle trailers in the 90's. I was told it would only be sold to city governments and certain customers due to avoid having people overloading (large dumpbeds and such) them then complaining of low power (not enough enine) and other overload failures. Mack had this problem when they made some lightweight RD's years ago with an E5 engine (midliner engine?) then people tried to turn them into tri-axle quarry trucks. Also the salesmen at the dealerships were mad that you cant get it in single axle! Whats the use in being lightweight if you cant order it as a single axle? On the one piece windshield I heard it was only for the CXU and CHU and now the new medium duty Granite. I heard they stopped offering it in the GU (Granite) due to cab flex cracking the 1 piece windshield during off road and severe duty use.

That makes sense because my fuel gage just quit workin. Thank you!

Hopefully its just the sending unit. Sometimes times its the wiring but not often. The wires go from the sending unit in the tank to the cab ECM. If something is wrong with the dash guage or dash cluster it wont set a code so its probably just the sending unit.

im in an 01vision. Every now and then the lightning bolt comes on and somtimes it will go off, other times it stays on. I did the diagnosis through the cruise and it flashes 6-1. Any help would be great.

Fuel tank sending unit is a 6-1 code.

Not my favorite color combination. A different exterior color would look nicer.

Somebody got their ride "PIMPED"!

last six vin is 168750 , it has 12 24.5 but im gonna switch to 11r 24.5 , the axles ratio is 4.56 , the trans is 8LL, its tuned to a 400, its a triaxle, also i service the truck very often change the fuel filters, change the oil and air filter.

That VIN doesn't show up for any Mack ever built. On ever CV I have ever seen the last 6 of the vin starts with a 0. Does the dash have a manifold pressure ( turbo boost)guage in the upper left hand side of the dash? If so what does it read under a load? Spec is 28 to 36 psi. My friend has a CV713 with a 427, 4.42 gears, 11r24.5 tires and an 8LL trans and it runs great. With your gear ratio it should be good. Recheck the vin and see if its correct.

I think the Titans are out there, they are just illusive. Maybe 3P can tell us how many were built so far (if he hasn't already somewhere).

Just as an example, a local trucking company bought a bunch of Visions in '06, as well as one Pinnacle (CXP613). Since it was new at the dealer, I think I've only seen it twice in those 5 years, and I see a bunch of their trucks daily.

Out of our 3 stores we have only sold 1 and I never got to see it. We only sold 2 new trucks all of last year. We are having a much better year this year but no Titans planned to order.

Whats the last 6 of the VIN #, I can see if the Step 12B update has been done in the ECM. Like the post above, need more info, tire size would help.

I get in turn the key goes through relay sequence, then reads "103 STOP" is this an error code, bad sensor...any ideas?

When the Freedoms were first coming out I ordered 3 different service manuals for them. We never sold one , saw one or had one on the lot. The manuals I have are for the wiring, engine overhaul and AC/heating system. I looked for any fault code info but found none in the manuals I have.

We're running 2006 Mack CXN 613's and I was wondering if there are any other fan clutch manufacturers that make a clutch that could be substituted for the Behr fan clutch?

Just have your Mack dealer pull up a CXN613 that has a Horton fan drive/clutch and order what you need. You will need the fan clutch/hub, fan blade and air solinoid. The dealer will have to change the fan setting in the engine ecm to on/off. Also your fan belts will probably have to be replaced with longer or shorter ones. We have done a few but most people stick with the Behr even though they last only about 3 years max. Good thing about the behr is they dont come off and go through your radiator like the hortons do!

Heres some pics, pulled a new one off the shelf, Let me know if you need the other side (engine harness wire #'s).

I have a 2004 CX613 with a E7 427. When the truck runs right it has great power on low and top end. The truck occasionally loses power. The turbo sounds like it is not spooling up. When it loses power the exhaust gets loud as though the muffler was taken off going down the road. Loud on acceleration and slowing down with the Jake on. The electrical malfunction light only comes on some times. Have not been able to read any codes because the malfunction light does not stay on. Engine also idles rough. Almost appears that it loses a cylinder. Any help would be great. Please advise.

I was thinking EGR valve sticking open or most likley VGT/ turbo actuator. Really need to get a fault code out of it. Both of these parts are $1000 each so I wouldn't want to start throwing parts at it. Till you know for sure.

On the 93/93 crd rears, can you change the bevel gears without removing the housings?

Havent checked the numbers yet to see if I can get what I want with just an upper gear change, but I want to change the 5.73 to a 4.42...

The way I see it I can change our the bevel gears, swap the entire differentials, have mine rebuilt with the gears I want, or get a cutoff with the ratio I want.

Thanks

I'm sure you can on the 92 series cause we have changed the upper pinion and ring gear/bevel gear with the carrier still in the truck/housing. I thought you could on the 93 as well. I know on the 200 series you have to pull the whole carrier out. All my books are at work though, to double check.

I was right, it's a small granite and yes it's with a cummins

We have a winner!

Had a new CXU stop in and it had the first M-drive transmission that we had seen. Driver said it was super smooth shifting and really liked it. We got 2 techs at M-drive Mack school this week. Hope these transmissions are trouble free! Sorry pics are sideways!

Has anyone had a bad experience with Biodiesel?

I am thinking about using B99 (99% biodiesel) but do not want to fry an engine to save a few pennies.

Mack had a service bulletin about Biodiesel, I think they only recomend 10 or 15% max, I'll try to find it and post it. Some guys in our area with new DPF equipped trucks used the 20+% biodiesel and it caused lots of regen problems. If it was a farm truck or a truck that wasnt used much I would not put any bio-diesel in it at all. I would only use it if I knew I was gonna run it all out before it sit to long.

When you turn the key on, does the red X shutdown light and the yellow "lightening bolt" light come on for 2 seconds then go out? If not the engine ECM might not be powering up. If the J-1939 line and the other datalink (cant remember the #, J-1758 ?) wire are unplugged it wont start. Some where I have a "crank but no start" troubleshooting check list.

Whats the last 6 of the VIN and model number (GU713- CXU613...ect) I can pull it up and see what AC set-up you got.

Hey guys, I have a 99 etech 350, and I am looking to get more power, I was looking at a junked 400 and was wondering if the ecm could be switched in a sort of plug and play manner. I am guessing probably not, that mack would have to reflash a ecm that was put on my truck, but I figured that I would throw it on here, I know there are some good mack mechanics watching! Any input would be appreciated, also was looking for an opinion on the boxed from illinois dyno, and similar, dont want to put anything on my truck thats going to cause a problem... Thanks, Andy

You can have your Mack dealer bump your 350 to a 400 with just a download/HP conversion. The only hard parts to install would be the larger vibration damper if needed. We do lots of the 350 to 400 conversions. The cost of the download used to be free but here latley Mack (Volvo) has been charging the dealer $300-500 plus Dealer labor time and vibration damper if needed. To get to the 427-460HP range you need turbo and injector change plus pull the cam and install off set key-way to retard the timing to prevent overheating ( must been done in the RD due to small radiator, we have tried before without key-way change, big mistake) I was thinking the last ones we did totalled a little under $6000 all parts and labor. You could get some larger aftermarket injectors to bump it up alittle. www.rochesterfuel.com used to list some stage 2 and 3 injectors for ETECH's but I see they are gone from their website.

I know a lot of guys that change there air filter every year whether it needs it or not,the filter in my cl is going on three years,I'm going by what mack says and watching the restrition gauge,is this wrong should I just change it anyway.This subject has come up from time to time with some of my friends and they say I'm nuts for not changing it once a year,I tell them to read the label on the filter housing,what do guys think?

I dont trust thoes restriction guages at all. At least change it once ayear minimum. And as some of the other guys said , try to vacume out the housing after you remove the filter if you can, I have seen pics of "sandblasted" turbo impellers from my turbo guy.

And I'll bet the truck probably hasn't been greased since the last time that filter was changed!!!!!!

2004 was the date written on the filter, thats when we sold them the truck.