Mackpro

Check the muffler, I spent a day on a lowpower complaint and after checking everything I could think of I climbed up a ladder and with the engine running I could cap off and hold the exhaust back with my hand. The baffle had come loose and was stuck side ways inside the muffler.

What are some of the things you have tried? Would be nice just to be able to put a different engine in there since that would be cheaper then getting a new truck.

Here are things we do to try for top MPG on ASET's , adjust the valves(and jakes) and install new rocker arm hold down bolts( due to possible breakage), replaced the boost pressure relief valve on the intake manifold ( if you havent already replaced it), load the newest software and datafiles in both ECM's ( step 12B as its called ), calibrate throttle pedal and VGT turbo, pressure test the complete intake system including the EGR cooler piping, replaced the muffler with a Walker straight through muffler ( still quite), make sure there are coolant shutoffs on the fuel heater for summertime (keep them closed till it gets real cold), Figure out what MPH you want to run/cruise and talk to a good salesman how knows all the fourmulas for getting the correct tire size for the rear gear ratio and trans that you have. Sometimes a simple tire size change (without changing wheels) can get you into the "sweet spot" you to be for best MPG. We have seen trucks that were spec'ed correctly to begin with but the new customer wants to be like all his bullhauling buddies and went from 22.5 lo-pro to 24.5 full size just to be cool, but didn't realize he just screwed up his sweet-spot and now has low power complaints. Get low rolling restiance tires if possible. Make sure the hole in the hood meets up with the air filter housing ( marking paint on the rubber bellows and close and latch the hood) a good seal so it's not sucking hot air off of the engine in the summertime. Some of those aftermarket chrome hood louvers restrict to much air on the higher HP engine( says on the package). And of course dont be running 80+ MPH, keep it as slow as you can sainly deal with. Some guys say changing the governer setting (in the ECM) to all-speed instead of min-max helps the MPG and I have seen it help once but the guy was already a slow and steady driver so not totally sure on that one. Thats all I can think of for now but I'm sure I'm leaving somethings out.

Hey 68 He, mentioned he had no black smoke I was thinkin a fuel input issue!

Do you have any intermitant or consistant Codes??

Didn't see that, what about over-tourqued injector hold downs, I have seen guys tighten them with a impact gun and collapse the injector body and they wont spray right? But I guess that would happen right after engine start up.

Haven't seen to many 2004 and up AC ASET EGR engines that get any better than 6.2 mpg. I am working with one guy and we got him at the 6.0 point, just added a high flow Walker muffler and waiting to see the results. There is not just one thing that makes a truck get good MPG it's a combination of many different things that get you there.

Check the air compressor air intake tube that run around the back of the engine to the back of the intake manifold, the short rubber hose could have blown off, it happened to me.

Duralit is the way to go but for small leaks like you had we have some epoxy we use that works good. But if you got the money go ahead and do the Duralite and be done with it.

Leaky liners!Ya need to pull the pan and see where the coolant is coming in at Chances are good the liners Are leaking with miles like that!

I vote leaky liners especially if the engine had no coolant filter on it!

there has been old trucker stories of drivers adjussting the speed sensor on hte back of the trans out some to get a higher governed speed (i guess due to the sensor not reading correctly) does this have any truth? 60mph is getting old fast.

its a 2005 vision 350hp with a 6speed trans

It is possible (sometimes)to unplug the speedometer sensor and the truck will run wide open MPH, however most owners/companys who have their road speeds turned down have the MPH sensor tamper settings enabled. What this means is if you unplug the sensor/tamper with the adjustment or any fault occurs with the MPH sensor it will derate the HP and you will be worse off than just leaving it alone.

It'a available on itunes for only 99 cents.

Thanks!

"Chickin Lights and Chrome" is sung by Jesse Watson.

Thats it, cant seem to find it to buy or download.

Just heard a new song that started out talking about a red Mack Truck, something like "Chickenlights and Chrome" anybody heard it? If so who sings it. I heard it on XM radio Nsahville station. It was pretty good.

We have had the injector cups replaced twice. The first time they replaced the ones they thought was bad. The second time they said the other ones needed replaced that didn't get replaced the first time. That really wasn't a good enough "fix" for us, so we told them to replace them all at one time and we picked up what warranty didn't. What we experienced with that was after the truck would sit overnight, it would crank over more than usual before it would start. So hopefully its maybe just a connector issue.

On the injector cup issue there are now stainless cups and new style injectors that come in a kit from Mack that will hopefully cure the cup issue. On the gasoline deal, all these trucks were dump trucks that were working in an area far from truckstops, these gas stations would have 4 pump handles on one stand, 3 grades of gas and then diesel. The diesel should have a black cover on the handle/nozzle but we found some stations would have green covers on the handles like the gasoline. The drivers just weren't paying attention.

Our 2008 cxu mp 8 485 showed a code of mid 128, I forget the rest of the numbers. Looked it up in the book and ended up being #5 injector code. The motor was running rough, but still running. I erased the fault code using my steering column mounted switch. As soon as i did that, the lighting bolt went out and the motor smoothed out. Ran the truck the rest of the day with no problem. Right after I erased the code and started back down the interstate it started a regen right away. What could have been the cause of this fault code????? Thanks

There is a Mack service bulletin on injector fault codes, dont see many injector failures but mostly the wiring harness connectors at the injectors loose connection. We install new connector ends and this seems to fix the malfunction code most of the time. However as Rasler said the injector cups can cause issues as well. Also check the fuel tank for gasoline! We have had 4 trucks in the last 2 months that had gas in the fuel tanks and 2 were MP's and caused injector codes.

I think that's a typo. A 1998 chassis ought to have an E-Tech engine. The E6 was probably retired sometime mid 1989, maybe a bit later.

Last I could find of the E6 was in 1990 however in 1991 it still listed EME6-250L and 350L plus the EE6-350, I think these were for export.

www.track-your-partner.com

Guess I will have to leave my phone in my tool box at lunch if I want to keep going to the strip club!

I agree that it's a PR tool, I just think better PR would be gained if the money went towards supporting failed products. I don't mean to say that there is no support, just that a better job could be done. Basically I'm just being a curmudgeon, but I would be interested in any information that can be gleaned from someone who was involved in the project. Could be that I'm totally out of line on this one, thanks cfesting.

I agree Rhasler, while Mack/Volvo says their broke and no money to help (policy/goodwill) a owner/operator who has bought an MP-8 and is on their 3 set of injector cups. Volvo show up with this rig, while I like it and it's cool, I too think Mack should use the money to help stand behind their product!

Do to medical problems at home I am gona have to sell my truck.

anyone interested contact me.

Sorry to hear that! I'll talk to our sales guys. I known your situation and praying for you and your family!

Sounds like the oil cooler is plugged, but it's not going to hurt anything to check the temperature as suggested first.

The oil cooler inlet screen could be plugged, needs to be removed and cleaned or replaced every year or so.

oil cooler inlet screen.pdf

"The VHD was created by the NRV team to add to the Volvo customer plant visit experience. The pick-up truck was built with restored Volvo parts, and powered with an EPA 2010-certified Volvo D13 engine and I-shift transmission. The five- seat truck showcases American craftsmanship while providing customers with the ability to experience Volvo truck comfort combined with ease of operation when utilizing the Volvo powertrain."

Would have been cooler if it were a Mack.

I have thought of doing this as you can get a 1999 CH612 for 7-9 grand, lower it and put a dooley bed on it.

mackpro68 can you tell me how to check wastegate on a mack 460

I have a Mack Service bulletin SB214017 that tells all about the wategated turbo on the 2001 (starting in OCT) - 2003 ETECH 460 HP engines. Its a 15 page bulletin and I have it printed but cant get it in a format that I can attach here. I can fax it to you if you have a fax machine? Really you should just put no more that 40psi if air pressure to the wastegate and and it should move/open. Any more that 40 PSI and it could blow the diaphragm. If it doesnt move and you hear air leaking its a blow diaphragm. If you dont hear air leaking and it dosent move it's stuck. Soak the lever with penatrating oil and try to free up.

Very common problem, as long as it goes inactive soon after warmup, I would not change it unless it was under warranty, 2year/200,000 on the EUP's unless you have extended warranty. If it starts staying active for long periods of time then get it changed. 8-2 code means #2 EUP pump. 8 means EUP and the second # means position 1 though 6.

Sorry about that pic. Have NO idea how it got there, but I don't think that rear is sitting low at all.

Regarding my truck, I was just wondering if you could adjust just the rears. I have a long overhang from the rear axle to back of truck, so thats probably why it sits like that.

Even when i have a good load and with the boom on top, yeah it leeeeans a bit.

Looks like you got a lift axle on the very back, is this correct? If so, if you crank up the air to it does it help?

Not to derail. my truck sits heavy to the rear. Can I adjust the rear to level truck? or does it fill all bags the same?

The one leveling valve fills all 4 bags at the same time. I have see road tractors converted to dump trucks with air bag suspensions that leaned to one side or the other when loaded. We have installed another air leveling valve on the RH side so that each side had it's own valve so the truck would sit level. But I dont recommend air suspension rears on dump trucks, real squirrly going down the road loaded. Whats your vin and I can look it up, is it the orignal rear suspension?

MackPro68 what air susp. do you recomend being the best you can get on a mack?

The Max-lite you have on that CXU seem to be the most trouble-free but time will tell. To me they all are good. You can still get the Mack AL and AL2 on new trucks. It has been around the longest but is heavier and have seen alot of issues with loose U-bolts but that was mostly due to maintenance issues and not the design.

You can lower or raise the bags by adjusting the rod on the air bag control valve, you can lower or raise the bags as long as the slip yoke spline is not exposed, check the balance weights on tail shaft, unis and pinions for movement,could also be a faulty or worn innertube in tail shaft and as for bags being full the truck should sit level

On his CXU the rod is fixed and you have to actually move the bracket that the air valve is attached to in order to raise or lower it level. I have read and seen damage due to air bags set to high or to low. I only set it the way it come from the factory. Driver's were tearin up so many transmissions, drive lines and rear axles by driving with the air bags down, now all Macks after around 2004 with air ride rears have parameters in the VECU to limit road speed to 15 MPH if the driver tries to drive with the air bags down. While these parameters can be turned off or adjusted Mack just got tired of payin warranty claims for low air bag damage. Faulty air leveling valves can do some weird stuff, had one the other day just randomly start airing all the way up while going down the road. We replaced alot of them on the new trucks.