Mackpro

Had this farm truck (2000 CX) come in yesterday for a service. Pulled the air filter out and it was the worst I have ever seen, It weighed 17 pounds, packed full of bean hulls I think!

so it could be one or more of those sensors not functioning properly or a malfunctioning ecm?

Yes, Check the small fuse box (if this is an ETECH engine)under the hood on the firewall, look at fuse # 41 i think. This sends 12V to the fan circuit. I had a truck the other day having high AC pressure due to when defroster is turned on the AC compressor was engaged but the expansion valve was stuck closed causing high pressure. Even after the engine was shutoff for several hours it still had high head pressure.

hey i have a problem with a 98 ch600 the air clutch for the cooling fan wont disengage i can provide a gound to the air switch on the drivers side of the radiator and it will turn off but the truck wont do it on its own i suspected a temp switch but talked to a mack dealer and they told me it was controled by a computer based on the values of multiple sensors is this true or is there just one switch?

The engine ECM tell it to come on, it actually grounds the circuit inside of the ECM to engage the fan. The ECM looks at coolant temp, AC high pressure and intake manifold temp to know when to engage.

I have a friend up in jersey thats a driver for a mid-size Haz-mat carrier (S*J transportation) he tells me they are "phazing out" all the Macks in the fleet!(to be replaced by Peterbilts) S*J was a longtime user of macks of various models F,R,RD,MH,CH,CX etc. they were even granted their own service/parts franchise by Mack. He said the reason he was told, was poor dealer/warranty support,problematic un-reliable trucks! Hard for me to see anything but a Mack pulling one of their trailers,as i grew up right down the road from their terminal. I for one, wish i knew what goes on at Macks corp.headquarters! seems to me Mack is not as interested in retaining long time customers as it once was,even in the specialty/vocational fields! i'm sure the swedes have something to do with it,but seems support for the "little guy" is almost non-existant anymore!.............Mark

Called one of our customers today to ask how a couple of his CHU MP8's was doing afer having several breakdowns here latley, he responded that the CHU were doing ok but he did go out and buy a new KW! We have lost alot of new truck sales to KW in the last few years but they will be back after they see its not as green on the other side of the fence like they think.

I'm sure most people won't have an opportunity to see this truck. It's the NYC LEU. A lot different then the standard LEU. We are rapping up the order. Notice the top roof deflector. Both doors are bifold.

We have yet to see any new LEU's in our area in several years, all the major trash companys in our area have switched to a Pete (or some other low-entry model) however lots of new 2011 MRU's showing up.

Intresting.... And way to leave us hanging

I guess I should have added it will be more of a lighter duty truck but I think it will be heavier duty than the Midliners.

There is a new Mack truck coming out soon. Cant really comment on it to much right now as I dont want to get anybody in trouble. It is a special application model that no one here probably buy but you see them working and I think they will sell good to their market application. I think they will debut it at the big Truck show in Louisville KY. It's nothing super high-tech or ground breaking but sure to cause some talk among the "Old School" die hard Mack fans.

We are Mack only and tried to get the Volvo dealership but there is already a Volvo dealership to close (60+ miles away). It all has to do with "territory". Our boss already part owner in a few Volvo Dealerships but we cant get it here. Even our VCADS software to hook up to read codes and do troubleshooting will only work on the Mack MP engines and not the Volvo "D" engines even though thay are the exact same engines, because we are Mack only our passwords wont work to log onto the Volvo engines.

Back in the 1980's Renault obtained majority stock ownership in Mack Trucks, which it allowed to operate semi-autonomously. In 2000, Renault was purchased by volvo, which effectively gave volvo ownership of Mack.

Speaking of Renault, I heard that Volvo is painting the MP engine black and putting it in Renault trucks. My boss man was at some Mack/Volvo meeting and saw the same enine painted red, green and black for all 3 truck Brands.

You can only get an MP10 in a Titan, not an MP8. That is fact. Titan power goes from 515-605 horses including a 555 but its in a MP10 not 8 sorry.

You are correct. A few months back on Dealer Portal there was a Data sheet or a SED letter that was incorrect, me and my boss both saw it listing a MP8 555HP for the TD, he looked into it and found it was a typo but I never checked it out any further.

You can get an MP-8 in 555HP but only in a Titan, The Mp8 505 HP's I have driven have been awesome. The Mp8 555 in a Titan would be a weight saver compaired to the MP10 which has only 50 more horses.

What I really wish is for someone to buy Mack from Volvo, ditch the MP engine and use Cummins engines only, with Mack or vendor trans and cariers. We would be a one step ahead of Kenworth and Pete by having our own transmissions and axles. But it will never happen. For now I prefer just one engine because of trainning and parts.

Figures. you will have to go testing to find what each terminal is for. once you know what terminal does what hook it up directly to the sending unit and test the range of the gauge. if it works normal hooked directly to the sending unit. then I would test the wires in the truck. you may have a bad ground,signail wire, or hot, hopefully its just a louse plug...

The fuel sending unit wires go to the VECU (ECM in passenger side kick panel) first then comes out of the VECU and goes to the dash cluster. Usually if there is a wiring problem between the fuel sending unit and the VECU it will set a code(yellow lighting bolt).

Has anybody tried Ilinois dyno ecm reflash, or a power box. Or any other solutions for these gutless wonder AI 427's. Mine is in a Dump truck. It has no bottom end what so ever ,and when it finally does make power it is time to shift. TIA

Havent heard of anyone using them. There were several threads on the AI engines, lots of things to do and check, tire size, gear ratio and transmission make a huge difference. Mack dealer software updates can make a difference. I am workin on one now that is weak, Its a 427 AI, 4.42 rear gears, tall 24.5 rubber and an 8LL Fuller trans. Did all software updates (step 12B), adjusted valves, installed upgraded rocker arm hold down bolts, pressure tested aftercooler and intake manifold and piping. Driver was in a hurry but called back to say much improved. In my opinion it needs 4.64 gears or drop down to lo-pro 24.5 tires but the customer doesn't want to do it. Whats the specs on your truck? Last 6 of Vin would help and I can pull it up.

Since the swede's took over the whole customer service thing has gone out the window!I have to pause and think Do they treat there Volvo customers the same way???

Or is it just the Mack side of the company? They wanted all of you Mack guys as customers but don't want to build mack trucks the way they need to be built ( MACK Tough)

These Guys are actually worse than dealing with Cummins!

You can also take note that that dealer that took the bull by the horns and repaired the problem Will likely not be payed for his efforts by the warranty people as they didn't follow proper proceed-er.

We were denied warranty on a 2011 truck, on its second trip an injector actually broke and because we didnt follow proper procedure we were denied and now have to apeal. Thats all I can say about it without getting some kind of pissed off.

Heres the service bulletin on keeping the new cooler from going out again. However it probably will go out again, a fleet of CXN's here have 600-700 thousand miles on them and all have had their EGR cooler replaced at least 3 times even when following all the service bulletins from Mack. The coolers come from Mexico if it matters?

oil cooler inlet screen.pdf

he can some help me out i have purchased a mack 2004 a month ago and worked great friday and hopped in sunday and white smoke and antifreeze came out of the exhaust pipe, what do i need to look for, still runs good,

Is it a CH/CX or a CV Granite? I see you have CX listed in your profile. So I assume it is a CX, EGR coolers go out like crazy on these engines, The EGR cooler is the metal box on the RH side of the engine, remove the rubber hose between the EGR cooler and the metal "S" pipe (mass flow sensor pipe)that goes back over the engine (between/over the valve covers). If there is coolant/water (wet)in this pipe then more than likely the EgR cooler is bad. Is the coolant coming out of the exhaust manifold it's self?

Heard today that Martins Potatoe Rolls in Chambersburg Pa has ordered about a dozen new Macks. They were a long time Mack customer years ago and then started buying IH. This is good to hear for Mack. Also heard that Chambersburg Waste Paper will be taking delivering of some new roll offs soon. They have always bought freightliners and western stars. If this is all true it will be great for Mack.

P.S. Today the dealer took care of our boost pressure sensor problem finally.

Our new truck sales have really shot up here in the last 2 months. Sold 2 new 2011 505 HP CHU's on new years eve. We now have several 505HP SCR engines running in our area. Our truck sales were ordering more today.

...so I took my truck in a while back for a new turbo, along with a few other "minor" things. Only electrical issue at the time was the "R" idiot light would be on (but dim) all of the time and would brighten up a bit when I'd actually put it in reverse.

Anyway, I got the truck back and the marker light switch wasn't working.

Keep in mind, the headlight switch was already redneck-engineered due to the dang things burning out all of the time. The headlights and clearance lights were either all-on or all-off...no clearance-lights-only setting with a simple toggle switch.

Anyway, the marker light switch is supposed to work the 2 outside cab marker lights on the roof, as well as the tail lights across the rear of the trailer (the ones that blink when you push on the button on the end of the turn signal lever). I unplugged the switch, and it wasn't getting any power to the plug. So, when I got home, I redneck-engineered another simple toggle switch running power up from an auxiliary fuse block I installed (I don't like to mess with the truck's wiring...I add my own for anything I install) before plugging a single wire into the terminal that made the trailer's tail lights come on.

Somehow, though, while all of the truck's lights were on, the trailer was missing the clearance lights (normally operated by the headlight switch). It was late, though, and since I now had tail lights, I wasn't going to be TOO concerned about it. I was just missing the amber lights on the front of the trailer, the amber lights at the mid-point of the trailer, and the 3 DOT lights on the rear of the trailer.

About 45 miles into the first day, I made a turn and noticed ALL trailer lights were on, and continued to work fine all day.

The next day, again, I was missing the headlight-switch-operated trailer lights...but by the time I climbed down out of the cab and turned towards the trailer, they were on...and stayed on for the duration of the day.

Anyway, after a couple weeks of this, I had shop time scheduled to try to find the last 10 psi of boost I'm missing. I swung by the company shop to hose the truck off...clean trucks are ALWAYS more pleasant to work on than dirty ones...and when I went to leave, I noticed the headlight-switch-operated trailer lights were not on. I grabbed my multi-meter, unplugged the pigtail from the trailer, and tested the headlight-switch-operated pin...it was showing 12+ volts.

So, I figured it was a trailer issue.

I put the trailer into the company shop. Although the plug was showing 12+ volts, it would not light a test light. The other pins would...turn signals, brakes, etc...just not the headlight-switch pin. Hook a battery up to the headlight-switch-operated circuit on the trailer, the lights came on. In other words, it wasn't a trailer issue.

When I dropped the truck off, I told 'em the 'lectrical issues needed to be resolved before they worried about the boost. Oh yeah, the "R" idiot light started being on again when I got home from the company shop.

The plan was to do whatever the CX recall was for the headlight switch issue (even though I have a CH, my toggle switch was there as a direct result of my getting tired of spending $30/pop every couple months when the danged switch would blow) and try to figure out why the stock plug for the marker light switch wasn't getting any power. Most of all, though, I needed the trailer lights to be working...because that's something that will get me pulled over and will cost me money. I left the trailer hooked up when I dropped it off so they could see exactly what I'm working with.

Anyway, I picked the truck up early Monday morning:

The headlight switch, by itself, does not turn on ANY trailer lights. It still works the lights on the truck that it always has. It is once again a Mack toggle switch, so I can turn off the headlights while keeping the amber clearance lights all lit. Ain't been able to do that in a LOOOOOOOONG time, so it's kinda nice.

The marker light, however, was STILL just my redneck-engineered toggle switch, and still controls the 2 outside cab marker lights on the roof...except by itself it now does NOTHING on the trailer.

Yeah...you read that right. NEITHER switch, by itself, turns on a single trailer light. For the trailer lights to be on, BOTH switches have to be "on". If EITHER switch gets turned off, all trailer lights are shut off. The switch on the end of the turn signal lever does nothing.

Don't get me wrong...I'm absolutely NOT complaining. I told 'em I needed the lights to work, and they do. I guess it is more of a surprised feeling than anything, after the scolding I received about my electrical alterations and how they were doing all this work (at $75/hour) to get the electrical system back to "stock". I told 'em "GOOD! That's how I want it!". Besides, what they can do in a couple hours in a climate-controlled shop with all of their experience and the resources they have available to them, it would probably take me a month of sleepless nights (after working all day) flying blind (since I don't know what I'm looking for or where the typical problems are) working outside in cold/rainy weather....well worth the money. The way it is now sure ain't the way the switches & lights would work in stock form....but all my lights are now working...so I am happy.

I think part of the reason they came up with the solution they did was because it was a short work day....new years eve...and they all wanted to get out of there. I told 'em when I dropped the truck off that I'll be taking a 4-day weekend next month...that they should expect it to be back for whatever they don't have time to get to this time. Haven't talked to them since picking the truck up, though...been fighting the sore throat/stuffy nose/fever/etc that my fiance gave me while I was there ringing in the new year with her sick ass. Battled through work yesterday bundled up with the heat cranked and kinda glad they didn't have anything for me today. It's back to work for tomorrow, though...sick or not....hopefully not.

Did I ever mention how much I HATE electrical problems?

All those circuits run through the turn signal switch, when i have screwy problems like that I always start by replacing the turn signal switch.

I am a construction asphalt company and am looking into buying the Mack CXU613 truck to replace our 1999 378 Peterbuilt end dump. Has anyone had any issues with the new California emissions and the urea system.

I am comparing it to the Peterbuilt with the same specs. Peterbuilts ISX 15 425ST Cummins motor.

What I am finding is this. It is like trying compare a Ford to a Chevy. Your either a Ford guy or a Chevy guy. Both are good, just depends on what you grew up with.

So, I am looking to know if anyone knows what engine is working with the CA emmisions the best.

Any pro's or con's out there?

Attached is the Mack quote with specs.

We have sold 5 new 2010/11 truck with the SCR/urea injection, all 5 have had no issues with any on the emission controls.

Wondering if anyone can help me find wiring diograms for a 2007 CL733 mactruck

Is there a specific part of the wirin you need to see? Our diagrams are very large but if you need a specific circuit I can scan it for you.

Amen!

31 psi out of a truck that old is hoggwash!We had (stock units) of that era cranking 40 psi! these wore all mack drivline and were allowed the XT data file at the time! Likly nowhere to be found now!

Not to get off subject, I drove a CHU with a 505 HP today and the boost was going past the 40psi guage, what a ride!

Forget messing with Mack, go to a real turbo shop and have them make you one up. We use United Fuel and Turbo in Birmingham Alabama.

I read some information from volvo today claiming that with a properly spec'd wheelbase, which reduces the distance between tractor and trailer (the article claims 40" between the back of cab skin and the front of the trailer is optimum), that an instantaneous gain of 2.5% can be had. The article went on to claim that a full roof fairing can increase fuel economy by 10-15% and side fairings by 2%.

Mack used to say 36" between the trailer and truck but 40" seems more realistic ( look at a UPS truck going down the highway, really close). Adding of thoses aero fairings that bolts to the bottom of the front bumper would also help. Between 1992-1994 we sold 50+ CH sleeper trucks to a fleet, when the MPG didn't meet what they were promised we added large roof farings with 12" sleeper extensions and this alone put them into their target MPG range. There used to be a Mack engineer (cant remember his name)that had a great list of goodies to set a truck up for MPG,you could call him up direct and discuss your specific set-up, sadly most all thoes great engineers were replaced by Volvo guys. Since Volvo took over I have yet been able to talk to a engineer.

Could it be so simple as turning the hp down to 410?

Different turbo and injectors in the two engines. You might be able to turn the 460 down to a 427 with nothing more than a download. Most all ASET AC engines are exactly the same, just different turbo, injectors and download change the HP level.