Mackpro

Back in December I was in the Mack MP common rail engine class and there was no mention of the MP10 getting the common rail upgrade. And for that matter not much was said about the MP7 either

You might be onto something, I have a chart at work with all the camshaft part numbers for the ASET engines. I know the powerleash has its own camshaft . However I don't know if it is compatible with the Jacobs brake

Can only be checked if the yellow/amber "lighting bolt" is on. Turn the cruise on/off to off ( down). Then press and hold the set/decel or resume/accel button till the fault lamp goes out , then release and the fault lamp will flash out a 2 digit code.

Check the "U" shaped fuel return jumper pipe between the heads/valve covers. Make sure its not wet around this jumper. There is a check valve on the injection pump where the return fuel flows out. There are about 3 different styles, a couple of styles have a spring and check ball that can be shimmed for more fuel pressure. And on the later VMAC pump it was a simple solid fitting with a small hole drilled in it to make a restriction to create back pressure. The transfer pumps would sometimes leak but usually leak fuel into the oil pan.

We always use the pink/red pre-mixed 50/50 stuff here. I talked to our guy here and he does the same thing as you did. back the bolts out till they hit the balancer and slide the gasket/square o-ring out. However he had some that he could do like that for some reason but cant remember which engine it was on.

Here is the recall. SC0342 CX-CXNheadlight switch recall.pdf

A guy here at work , replaces the thick square o-ring by somehow taking the water pump housing loose but never takes the balancer off. I'll ask him how he does it in the morning

I install lots of seal kits in steering boxes. Its not hard. The sector shaft ( out put shaft) seals go out after time due to no power steering coolers. High heat kills the seals. While they have the valve cover off. Have them replace the rocker arm hold down bolts if you have the Powerleash engine brake. They stretch and brake and wipe out the camshaft and roller lifters. Seen it happen many many times. The new upgraded bolts solve this problem.

There is a recall on CXNs for headlight switches , what's thee last 6 of your vin and I'll see if it has been done

From push button switch in dash it goes to another micro switch on the back of the AC/Heater control panel to the thermostat that's below the control panel then through a inline fuse by the control panel , then through the firewall and to the low pressure switch and on to compressor . Check the fuse behind the contro panel

There was no info on the Volvo side about discontinuing the D16. So the MP-10 will likely live on as the D16 in the Volvo side.

Declining sales and that more or less the 505 MP8 in existing trucks was enough to get the job done. Can't really blame them , in 9 years years we only sold 3 between all 3 of our stores .

Just got the email a few minutes ago. No more Titans. Wish it was April Fools but sadly not.

Remove actuator. Turn arm on turbo to the right/forward toward front of truck. There is a hole through the arm and a hole in the turbo housing. They should be lined up. Go into VGT calibration and follow the commands

People always forget about the bullgears/timing gears on a MP. That's why I push the Mack Reman engine when overhaul or major engine failure occurs. Why spend 20K on an overhaul when a year later your bull gear goes out and your screwed again. Drop in the reman and it's all covered! Downfall is it's 30-35K

Unplug the wire at each valve cover and retest. If its still coming on then you got a solinoid stuck open on top of the jake housing or other internal issue.

My boss saw one at a Mack meeting a few weeks ago, He didn't take any pictures though. At my Mack school last week on the common rail engine. they told us the next big step will be fuel milage requirments. more areo stuff and low resistance tires, the 2 speed water pump, clutched air compressor and lots of wind tunnel testing stuff.

We set up the manual trans trucks so that if the 5 mph derate happens they can unplug the speeding sensor and will only loose a small percent of power . We set the "engine speed at any error" to 2100 rpm. Normally it's set at 1400 rpm. Also if you don't have a laptop with"Tech Tool " on it , there is little you can do but go to the dealer

The good news is . Only major changes are above the top of the cylinder head. The injection pressure has been lowered from 33,000 psi down to 22,000. This should help with injector and cup life. Injectors 2-4-6 are pumping injectors that preform just like the older MP Injectors but also presssuize the common rain for injectors 1-3-5. Injectors 1-3-5 can also be removed without removing rocker arm shaft. It's really super simple if you really see it in person. The camshaft is hollow and lighter weight and there is no balancer/vibration damper on the camshaft now. The 2 speed water pump is simple and the clutched air compressor has been in use by Volvo for a few years now. The harness under the valve cover is replaceable without changing the whole engine harness. And the engine sounds much quieter than before. The air intake for the air compressor no longer goes over the valve cove . It's now plumbed directly into the air filter housing. This makes removing the valve cover faster and easier. I doubt we will ever see many of the turbo compound set up's. All in all I feel better about the engine.

Sorry double post again. Lots to say about the engine. 98% all good! Here are the only downfalls I see. You have to crank on it a little longer to start than the old engine. About 2 seconds, feels longer as I'm used the older MP's starting right off . They removed the fuel pressure sensor on the filter stand , if you want view fuel pressure you have to view it on the AHI/ 7th injector shut off valve side. And the AHI/ 7th injector shut off valve is made into the fuel filter stand which will be harder to replace if it fails. The calibration/trim codes for the injectors are 38 digits long but can be scanned and entered with a QR gun . And lastly if you have to remove the injectors you have to replace all 6 of the fuel rail tubes. They are non-reusable. These changes mostly affect techs that work on the engine.

Lots to say about the engine. 98% all good! Here are the only downfalls I see. You have to crank on it a little longer to start than the old engine. About 2 seconds, feels longer as I'm used the older MP's starting right off . They removed the fuel pressure sensor on the filter stand , if you want view fuel pressure you have to view it on the AHI/ 7th injector shut off valve side. And the AHI/ 7th injector shut off valve is made into the fuel filter stand which will be harder to replace if it fails. The calibration/trim codes for the injectors are 38 digits long but can be scanned and entered with a QR gun . And lastly if you have to remove the injectors you have to replace all 6 of the fuel rail tubes. They are non-reusable. These changes mostly affect techs that work on the engine. i will report the good news in another post soon.

Sorry double post! Been hanging out at an Irish pub to late , down by the Mack school in Atlanta tonight! Check screen in lower radiator "Y" pipe, make sure 16 pound radiator cap, pull water pump and do pressure test through weep hole. Make sure small hose from surge tank to upper radiator hose is not blocked. The new 180/185 degree thermostat combo. There should be lots of threads on here with the service bullietins attached for coolant push , head gaskets are rare for this engines but do happen. With the one piece surge tank, fill to edge of fill tube (about 4" down) cold. Test drive and run for a day, if the low coolant alarm ( both lighting bolt and shut down light at same time) doesn't come on it's ok for now. Even with a perfect system, if your run it with the cap off it will push coolant out and people freak out.

Check screen in lower radiator "Y" pipe, make sure 16 pound radiator cap, pull water pump and do pressure test through weep hole. Make sure small hose from surge tank to upper radiator hose is not blocked. The new 180/185 degree thermostat combo. There should be lots of threads on here with the service bullietins attached for coolant push , head gaskets are rare for this engines but do happen. With the one piece surge tank, fill to edge of fill tube (about 4" down) cold. Test drive and run for a day, if the low coolant alarm ( both lighting bolt and shut down light at same time) doesn't come on it's ok for now. Even with a perfect system, if your run it with the cap off it will push coolant out and people freak out.

Yea if you got a DPF delete software installed it might not look at that sensor and your guage wouldn't show a reading and also no fault code

In Atlanta till Friday Going to Mack school on the new Mack common rail engine. Hopefully I will feel better about it when I get out of class . I will report what I find out.