mrsmackpaul

Yep, just keeps getting better and better Paul

The biggest problem with U bolts I believe was to keep things secure they are done tight The tighter the U bolt is done up the more it deforms the chassis and bends the flanges in making the whole show weaker To get around this issue people had nice cut bits of wood that fitted really neat in the chassis to stop the fangles getting squashed These bits of wood had to be hammered in as they were a very neat fit The bits of wood also had a groove in them that the U bolt fitted neatly in This stopped the wood coming out and the flanges getting squashed In the end I think it was just easier and cheaper to bolt angle iron on and be done with it Paul

I wanna make it clear that I wasn't trying knock annything just trying to save someone future head ache Anyways I'll hop back in my box now 😀 All is good, carry on Paul

No idea why, Im sure plenty of people smarter than me can answer that It might be only a Australian thing and not be a issue at all, I just figured if it was going to be a issue in the future at rego time it's pretty quick and simple to fix it now Paul

In Australia the angles have sit proud of the flange so there is 1/8 gap between the plate and the chassis rail flange Would be a shame if the same rules applied over there and you had to bugger up the paint work Great stuff and a very detailed video Paul

Providing the water hasnt been there long enough to corrode things, I would just drain and clean as suggested, the water should pump out of the injector pump pretty quick if it has any in it Things to remember are The filters on a diesel are fine enough to let diesel thru but not water Diesel floats on top of water And this probably a lot more common than you think So keeping this in mind it is highly unlikely any water made it to the injector pump Drain the water off the tanks (I can see and feel difference in my fingers between water and diesel) and then change the filters and prime it up If it is just water the truck would of been starved of fuel as soon as the filter was full of water and thats why it stopped, not because of water in the injector pump so dont panic it should be all okay and filters did their job Paul

The dimmer knob beside the headlight toggle switch is crook by the sounds of it Paul

If a groove is worn put a speedie sleeve on the shaft, I think in the States people frown upon using these but they are very common in Australia Also I find the using a blue neoprene seal for a hydraulic ram works in these situations were the shaft speed is reallly slow and they last a lot longer on worn shafts than a normal sleeve Hydraulic places frown upon this but I have had 100% success rate with these Paul

Now I dont know nothing about the type of engine you have, but my short time walking on the face of this earth tells theres a lot of common sense in the advice given above If it was the throw out bearing the clutch isnt adjusted right for a start, if you know nothing about these engines or about mechanical things then your advice has to be sort from reliable sources, were you find these depends on were you are, probably not facebook or the local bar Paul

I did get it to work once I downloaded it, very different looking part of the world than here Always good to see other parts of the world Paul

Well it definitely isnt a oil bath fillter so if you look after it, it should last another 40 years without to much drama Yes blow it out with compressed air, you can get special attachments so high pressure air isnt directed at the element and punch a hole in it IH used to sell a wash soloution for air filters, guessing most companies did as well Pretty sure Donaldson still have a filter reco servicing service that puts a new element in a old filter Swishman did this some years back in Australia So if your watching Swishy spill the beans and as you say "give till it hurts" Either way, if you wash it, blow it or just tease it a little make sure before you use it again you get a lead light and hold it behind and have a good look at the entire element for any tares Paul

Are we meant to have a picture or is it just sound, all I get is a white screen Paul

Only down side to this rebuild is it makes anything I do look rather shabby Great work as always, dont think I could sleep been this close to the end Paul

Dunno that either of those are readily available I have never seen a service book Wiring diagrams I have seen but they aren't exactly correct, there was like 4 or 5 different diagrams to cover all R models Paul

Sounds good to my untrained ears Paul

It is amazing at just how loud things can when no turbo is fitted and I guess it should be no surprise just how deaf a lot of people are as they get older A muffler might a good idea of some description in the future, then again once driving about with the windows up at speed it might be quite bearable as your moving pretty quick away from the noise Paul

Make sure they are nice and clean and free of dirty and grease etc, keep them square and slid them on even They should be a reasonably neat fit as the spacer holds the inner dual on while you lift the outer on if that makes sense Paul

Because our roads were crap and they are quick to change when you get a flat tyre and they are stronger than a 10 stud Bud type of rim, the Bud rims cracked a lot with our poor roads I think mainly because they are so quick to change Paul

12 is better than none of covid days, Glad it all went well for the big day To be honest I had to really read the leaflet to see that vintage trucks were allowed Paul

First things first, theres a big difference between split rims and dayton or spoked hubs The rims the outside piece, even if they are split types of rims you would have more chance of winning the lotto than anything happening while dropping the rim off Key board warriors have done so much damage with all their drama and carry on You probably have chance of dropping it on your foot or the truck slipping of the jack or stands They are no were near as dangerous as people make out are used the world over even today Paul

Never heard of deflating tyres before loosening nuts My take on these and still use them everyday, Swishman might be along shortly 100 - 150 is plenty, to much torque and all you do is squash the spacer, strip nuts and bust studs, there isn't any need for these stupid figures and all the BS that goes along with the key board warriors All drama and rubbish spoken and the key board warriors claiming they have seen people killed and mamed and so on is lies Use common sense, do them up tight with the wrench provided, make sure they run true, if you cant pull them in true with the nuts then back them off and start again Only nip them up by hand until they are within 1/4 inch of true on the tyre Then do them up tight, check within a few mile, then a few mile after that, make sure they are tight Then after 30 mile amd they should be right until the next flat or tyre change Skip all the drama and lies from keyboard warriors, up until 15 or 20 years ago thats pretty much all any truck had in Australia except for European trucks and even a lot of those had spoke conversions when new Paul

Becoming ??????? Oh boy you have no idea how the rest of the world see's America 😐 Paul

If you have spoke type wheels, just buy the rim, even 10 stud I believe tubeless steel rims are readily available to suit as well Last time I looked into buying tubed or tubless with a rim it was only $30.00 more to buy a new rim compared to buying a new tube, rust band and tyre, it really was to me a no brainer and the best thing I have done tyre wise, makes the truck so much more reliable and drive so much better Paul