mrsmackpaul

If you keep on at work for a little longer you might score a gig in Australia We are seeing Fedex trucks on the occasionally down here, think they have a foot in the door with Australia Post Holes definitely getting smaller on the mudguard, (fender I think you blokes call them) Paul

Depending on what tools you have available, plenty of axles pulled out and just press the king pin out with a shop press As long as it gets done Last lot I did was on a Isuzu truck and just geated the spindle up and had a piece of maybe 1 inch round bar as punch weld on a handle, a mate just held the punch after heating and I belted the pin out I have just used a 20 ton jack chained under a spindle with a bit of pipe over stub axle, it's a pretty fiddley but worked (my least preferred way) Paul

Looking fantastic, I saw a cattle trailer with big diamonds on it maybe 30 years ago behind Flinstone Mack Yellow trailer with 2 white diamonds on the front and back and a huge one on each side Really stood out Keep up the great work Paul

Good luck with the new gig on Monday Paul

Brocky, I'll be horse riding in Alberta that weekend Another time maybe, it sounds like it's worth trip just for a look Paul

Thought this was a good video, good job with the young pointer helping out Paul

Sounds like regulator isnt controlling the voltage Dunno if it is built into the alternator or seperate Paul

Not suggesting it will or wont work However for this type of coin I feel you could buy a engine hoist and 50 ton press and use these for so much more than just king pins Engine hoist to lift the axle into the press and the press to change the king pins Anyway, that's just a thought Paul

I have often wondered the same thing Most manufacturers had a go at building them I think Leyland was possibly the closest to commercial production They maybe made 1/2 a dozen or so and fuel companies had them And yes they were thirsty as well, I think the fuel crisis in the 70's put the final nail in the coffin on these Chrysler was probably the most advanced at building turbines in their car Paul

Last one looks very much like a NR Mack based truck The B 53 looks very sexy We'res the Vin number on these, if it was in Australia it is stamped on the chassis RHS behind the first drive axle Paul

A quantum leap between 1960 and 1964 That F model is gorgeous and almost done Would be sold in minutes in Australia Paul

And just a tad more useless information As as I know the highest spec E6 was 350 hp, at the time the E9 was 500 hp The little E6 was a mighty motor punching well above it's weight pulling 115 ton, day in, day out for a million miles between rebuilds A lot more E6 motors were on road train work than E9's I would guess only 1 in 10 was E9, around this time was when Mack started to loose it's dominance 9n road train work 3406 Cat and red head Cummins really hit their straps not as much power in the Cat but roll a fresh set of bearings at 500,000 km and they were a million mile motor as well Cummins were pretty good as well 2 stroke GM'S never really were dominant in this type of work Series 60's though had a good name The E9 was a monster but never lasted the distance, if it had of it would of been supreme Paul

I believe many road train operators would only get 300,000km out of the first E9's, things improved as the years went by and Mack got the bugs ironed out There was a reason a lot of long distance roadtrains specced the E6 over the E9 many years after the E9 was available Paul

Always a big decision in my life when I change gigs Always seems to work out okay Good luck with the new gig Paul

Great stuff, amazing how mmany good body panels exist in the U.S. Nothing this good in Australia, it has all been well and truly tested Paul

Okay what is t his compounded stuff you talk of ? Curious mind wanting to know as I know nothing about polishing and getting finishes back I gather this is the Maguiars stuff your talking about Paul

The sand dunes and driving in sand is a different experience if your not used to it This is a great adventure your having Vlad Thanks for taking us along with you Paul

Ah the dreaded fuel tanks, I've done a few over the years Apart from having a air hose dangling in the tank while welding or grinding I can't over any smarter advice Cut out more rust than you think you need to was some advice given to me many years ago The rust seams to effect the steel ariund the effected area even though it looks good And use a thick piece of steel for the patch, the heat has somewhere to go to and less of burning a whole thru Top job Paul

There you go, the holes getting smaller all the time Just keep on plugging away at it Paul

Well it's no a gaping big hole anymore so it's looking better Paul

Gun Wash will certainly soften the glue and hopefully not the paint I removed some really baked on for decades and it waa quite the job, heat gun was all I could find and it wasn't a simple job it took hours to get small stickers off in bits and pieces But ones that have only been on a maybe 4 or 5 years lift right off with a heat gun Paul

Welcome to the forum Fernando And yes they are the best trucks, my old bucket of bolts Paul

Note the intake and exhaust manifolds have flexible joints in them, two on the exhaust and one on the intake Your heads are most likely binding on the studs as the heads droop a bit Paul

Are you trying to pull both heads at once I'm only asking because the manifolds are still attached in the photos If so I'm not surprised the heads are binding on the studs And in the photo showing the gap the injector lines are still attached I dunno my ass from my elbow but when I have done these all this stuff comes off at disassembly and goes back AFTER THE HEADS ARE TORQUED DOWN so maybe pull all this stuff first and then pull the heads Paul

It is amazing to me how much effort was put into the architecture of these ancient places Shiraz, is that were the wine Shiraz wine started, I can only assume so Thanks for the photos Vlad Paul