1958 F.W.D.

Wouldnt know.....never been there.

No that one is filed under "Hell."

Hey achiefire, former Federal FF here, I was assigned to the Naval Air Warfare Center/Aircraft Division Fire Dept- Warminster Pa. 1995-1997, then to the Philadelphia Naval Shipyard Fire Dept 1997-1998 then to the US Army Fire Department/Aberdeen Proving Ground, Maryland 1998-2005.Left the federal service (in good standing) because I was pissed at the Pay Reform Act when the beancounters lost the lawsuit that gave us time and a half for hour #40 through hour #72, so they said "ok since thats O/T we're not paying into your retirement." I had enough of the political bullshit plus the 135 mile one-way commute to APG from my home. (I did shift exchanges and worked 3 straight to get 3 or 4 straight off but the having to do S/E's in one pay period got old....) Lots of other reasons too. Still am an avid Philly/New York buff and a volunteer so I keep my toes wet. I own a 1958 FWD Model F-725 750/500 #F80438.

After talking to you on the phone a few nights ago this is the post I was waiting for....Well done!!!! See you in a few weeks!!

HOLY DOGSHIT!!! I ACTUALLY DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!!!

Here is the article, I think....... Double Clutching.pdf

No, but there IS a Tilted Kilt in Allentown, literally 5 minutes from the Museum!!!

Non synchronized trannies obviously are not the same as synchronized. It's all in matching the input and output shaft speeds (for the most part....lol.....) Now I have to remember to bring that article to work and scan it for you and leversole......

I will be there with the wife and "small." "Medium" and "large" will be at their grandmother's place in Vegas.

Do you get Wheel of Times Magazine??? It's the publication of ATCA.......They just had a great article on double-clutching and shifting. If you dont have access to it let me know and I will scan it and email it to you, its good reading even if you are experienced.

Ken scrape down that 5th wheel and then re-grease it!!!!

Carl: it was explained to me that original materials (cork, rubber) will not work as today's DOT III brake fluid is too corrosive for those materials as opposed to the brake fluid of days of yesteryear.

A mechanic friend of mine came up with a great idea- just cut apart a bottle (same one the brake fluid comes in) and make the gasket!!!!! Damn why didnt I think of that???

I want to make or buy a gasket/o-ring for the clutch master cylinder on The Mistress. The original one desintegrated years ago, and ever since then I have been making gaskets with gasket paper, but they keep blowing up. What material can I use that will stand up to the brake fluid??? Would a neoprene or nylon gasket work? What about a rubber o-ring? How about some old inner tube???? Suggestions? Thoughts? A penny for your thoughts??

Doesnt anyone carry duct tape anymore, or just guys who drive PACCAR's?

Ahhhh 10-4 on that.

You know what a GMC is, right???? It's a Chevrolet with lock washers.......

The oil stain that looks like Jesus has been submitted to the Vatican for consideration of becoming a Miracle- for it came from one of those Anti-Christ and Un-Holy 2-strokes. Also, note there was prominent mention of the 60-Series (4-Strokes) yet no mention at all of anything 2-stroke. That's corporate's way of finally acknowledging their sin of creating Satan's Engine. They would just rather forget about it. No need to have an exorcist at the end of the 60-Series assembly line.

Momma taught me not to say anything at all!!!!!!!!!!!

If you're talking about the steakhouse near the airport, no you're not.......LOL

Damn, just watching that video makes me want to smash my fingers with the ball-peen hammer, I couldn't imagine driving it!!!! Just kidding......I love the leaves and crap falling off it in the first few seconds of road time. Gotta be a good feeling getting that thing out there for the first time in almost 10 years, I'm sure you have a list of things to do......Obviously from the video though make sure you go over all the running/brakes lights. Hopefully you just have to do light bulbs. Having someone hit the alternator with a tester couldn't hurt if you know someone with a tester. Scrape down that 5th wheel, get rid of all the old crud, then steam clean the entire ass end, especially the 5th wheel....Then maybe hit it with some sandpaper, and then re-grease it with fresh grease. Then crawl under the thing with a creeper and a grease gun with a full cartridge, and hit every grease zerk you can possibly find. And change the crankcase oil ASAP- that should be the first thing you do in fact- Detroit recommends using straight 40W oil which breaks down over time......I have had several oil people tell me to never allow straight weight oils to remain in a crankcase (or even in bottles on a shelf for that matter) for more than 2 years.

mmmmmmmmm Western R-Model......I'm horny........

Panel looks suspiciously like an Appleton.

Carl: thanks for the tip. Last time we went through this (about 8 years ago) we walked into the NAPA store and laid it on the counter, and said to the NAPA guy "We need a rebuild kit for one of these" thinking we would stump him.....He had one ordered in less than 5 minutes- Wagner still makes them as both the slave and the master are plentiful and parts are in demand. I still hope that's the case,

Ken I have seen many folks with a door directly in the front. It's kind of like installing a door or window in your house, just double up the studs on each side of the door because you'll be deleting one or two pins for the opening, and then install a doubled cross member over the door itself. If whoever does it right they will rivet it all with traditional smash rivets for maximum durability.