R.E.D
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Everything posted by R.E.D
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Well kinda yes and no.i test drove and after seeing how bad the blow by was I asked them to overhaul it .not sure what parts were used .before the overhaul the blowby smoke could be seen from inside the cab when stopped at a light. It also had that burnt oil smell which is very distinctive.
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For the past 3 days I have been running the truck fairly harder than usual. Averaging 58000 gross weight and doing 60 to 70 mph.Since I have 4.17 ratio truck was running at around 1600 to 1700 rpm.Once parked i saw the breather dripping and some drops on the ground and oil was way low....is this normal or am I looking at an inframe?Truck was inframed 60,000 miles ago.
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Thanks for the great info fellas . found the problem to be one of the two sets of cable wrapped with foil . replace it and truck running like champ now.
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So which one is the j1939.is it connected to the vecu?or the one next to it?there are two cables that are wrapped individually with some kinda foil on the inside of the plastic lining.they go to a 3 prong connector.are thy it?.is there an easier way to troubleshoot?thanks Red
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So while I was driving down the road the truck lost throttle.The pedal is completely dead along with the rpm gauge.Fault code is 6-4.I checked the connectors in the abs computer near the injector and the vecu in the cab.both show no corrosion. Also the triangle connector coming out the firewall.truck is idling higher than normal and the key won't shut the engine off until 15 to 20 second after the key is in the off position.Please advice on what further steps can be taken.truck is 98 ch 355hp
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Circuit breaker diagram?? 04 690s
R.E.D replied to jmb4wd's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
Sorry to hijack...j Hancock would you happen to have a 98 ch fuse box diagram? -
I was referring to the lift/transfer pump.the hand primer I replaced about 3 months ago since (57 bucks at mack) it was leaking when pushed and truck was dying on the middle of the freeway due to air in the lines.
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No connection.Found in Houston Craiglist.Looks clean.Factory 427 .
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I thank everyone for their replies and input. This whole week is been in the low 50s .Everytime I get to the yard I have been pumping the hand primer and the old dog has been starting.i have been looking at a lift pump online made by PAI.I would like to know what you guys think of that brand when it comes to mack.Are they a quality replacement part provider for our trucks?i have bought some items in the past made by them in the local truck parts store (Mack dealer is 40 miles from me at Mcarty) and the salesmen say they are great , but I know they say what they need to say in order to sell.
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The lift and transfer pump are they the same thing?I'm guessing it's the one that the hand primer screws into.the shutoff valve I'm assume will go before the pump?
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How would I know if I have a kysor system.the only override button I have is the one for the engine shutdown override. The hand primer was soft, but not that soft like when fresh filters are installed and one has to pump for ever to get it to be stiff.
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As gearhead204 said the lines are old .I will start there then tackling the wet spots on the fuel lines.i have no blink codes except the 1-7 because of a bad coolant sensor connector.
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Since it rained today I dropped by the yard to see if any leaks in the fuel lines were present. Before cranking I pumped the hand prime pump like ten times until it got real stiff. Then I cranked it for about 8 seconds and it started.it ran rough for first 3 seconds with white smoke and then it ran normal.
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I will find out if a broken pickup tube is the culprit by hooking up the lines to the twin tank on the driver side.
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That's is not my pump. Took it off the Web to show where it was leaking from.mine is v-mac.has electronic throttle pedal .here's a dumb question. What's a rack actuator and what does it do?
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Hello brettj3876.im also trying to get more grunt out of the old dog.i came across this on the web.i reckon it must be similar to blixton module except it's a switch on the fly.im not sure how well it works ,maybe someone here can tell us how good or bad it is. RED
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Thanks Paul for your explanation. So to get this straight ,I should start by getting the leak in the u shape fuel line then the return line from the pump? RED
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Thanks to everyone for replying.Once the truck fires it idles normally after 3 or 4 seconds.i thought about a broken tank pick up tube but the trucks uses all the fuel in the tank and never dies once it's running.i will try to take care of the leaks asap.i believe changing the fuel lines from pump to head from the two piece nut to the new style one piece should solve that leak.What do you guys think about the leak in the pic posted above?can that influence anything?
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I have a bottom running exhaust and haven't really looked if any smoke comes out while cranking.the only thing I know about the heads is that they were sent to a shop to get worked on and they were brought back painted and cleaned.just now I got to the yard and it was around 65 degrees and didn't turn on.i used a shot of ether to get it going.
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Im not sure if the injectors were changed at the inframe , but the heads were gone thru and fixed of any defects.Besides the hard start/no start issue is a trouble free truck.No smoke whatsoever and depending on air density 26psi of boost unloaded and 27 to 28 psi loaded.
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Hi everyone Since I bought my 96 RD it seems to start real rough when cold.I don't mean below zero but a slight chill (50 degrees) causes it to rough start like if the pistons were firing unevenly .Sometimes it wont even want to start , it would just crank until the batteries are drained.I would like to solve this issue since it creates a real PITA when you show up ready to work and truck wont start.Here are some facts that could narrow down the issue. Batteries are new. Starter seems kinda week compared to our other Ch's (96 & 98) The u shaped fuel line between the two head is wet. One injector line is also wet. The nut in the front of pump also wet ( See Picture) Truck has 50,000 miles on inframe and burns no oil. Please advice on how to tackle this problem. Thanks RED
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Update.found it .mack says it's 81 bucks.i will provide a part number when I buy them for who ever wants to change them also.
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Here is a vin of the truck in the picture above.ill try to get in touch with the mack dealer here and see if I can get anything
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Thanks guys.i will try to get a vin from one of these trucks and see if I can order it through mack.
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Hello everyone. I recently saw a rd with round headlights. In my opinion they look better than the squarish ones I have now. Plus I could get a set of those led headlights everyone is using nowadays. I would like to know if someone by any chance know the part # and the size headlights. Here is a pic of the truck i saw. Thanks Red
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