fjh

I appretiate what you have said and like to hear that kind of dedication to product that I once had, But the engine is the engine And seems like a good engine ,BUT Theres more to this than just an engine. they volvotized the rest of the truck as well!Lift the cab off and there sits a Volvo frame!We had a good frame! We could have used the mack frame and volvo cross members Best of both worlds! Mack engine mounts nothing wrong with them either simple design they worked! Volvo seems to like to complicate simple concepts That does not impress me! They make mountains of mole hills . We need to build a truck that in the end we can be proud of and the customer can rely on for the most part! adding complication to it isn't doing that! Have you ever watched star trek on the tube! Volvo is the Borg and WE have been asimilated ,Risistance is futile.

SOME tricks! You can get by by using only the water pump without the oring on it!Install the front cover WITH A GOOD quality silicone NO gasket Please! put the water pump in and snug the bolts in the water pump area try pulling the pump out if it dosent come easy tap the cover lightly in several directions till it comes in and out easy then tighten making sure the bottom of the cover lines up perfectly with the bottom of the block!While your tightening the rest of the cover bolts KEEP tring the water pump it needs to come in and out easy.DO NOT USE the front cover gasket THROW the dam thing away!It will curse you for ever they always leak after several months/years of operation NOT worth the aggrivation! PS when deleting the cover gasket it requires you reset the cam thrust screw BACK IT OUT 2 full turns (BEFORE) you install the cover ,Once everything is tight turn it In till it touches back it out a half turn and lock the jam nut. These tricks will definatly help ya sum! Good luck with it!

Why are you asuming its an ecu problem? DO YOU have fuel preasure?

Yup do em both! As Brent said, For best results you should have the fire ring grooves recut!

The worst wev'e had to do to them so far is exhast gaskets and leaks at the oil coolers!We have a few runing here, they do pull nice! NOW if we can get some cooperation from the volvo side to get the MRs programed to work for concrete pump applications we might have a chance!We've been fighting them for 2 months to get the programing correct!The volvo guys are bickering with the mack guys and so on!ALL WE WANT is somthing that will work for our customers! So I hope there are some of these dudes reading this forum and see what is being writen here!Put down the diffrences and lets get on with selling and servicing trucks And lets build a decent truck that a guy can be proud to work on!The engines seem to be a good start ,but the truck is falling behind some! TOO much tec the simple MACK truck has been over looked and over complicated The wheel is being reinvented for no good reason!

Is the check engine light on? If so You need to read the codes! Dumb question! IS there fuel in the tanks? If there is try priming the fuel system with the primer pump on the rh front of the engine if you get it to fire but not run doing that replace the transfer pump! If the primer pump feels spongy there is a good posibility that the transfer pump is toast.

Check close at exhast gaskets as well!Also an the older engines ABAC pump the engine will knock on #no 1 cyl due to cam shaft bearing wear in the fuel pump!the fuel supply pump pushes sidways on the cam advancing the timing on the front two cyls ,To verifiy this crack 1 and 2 at the fuel pump if the knock goes away you likly have worn bearings in the fuel pump.

I think I would try some additives at this point and a good hard run. product called rislone comes to mind!How much idling has it done?

>Mack, as near as I can tell, never offered a factory approved exhaust brake. < This option was offered for several years late ninteys it was called (Stealth Brake)!It was A jake brake exhast brake combo!The valve springs had to be changed in order to install with the jake!Not sure if you would have to change them with an exhast brake alone!ON a CH it was fitted under the passenger side floor board just before the flex pipe!

Two things! first to set the steering to max both sides on the bottom of the box there is what looks like a hole stick a flat blade screw driver that will fit the hole and back the screw out one turn that should affect the turn wider For one side( RH I beleive) long as its not hitting the circle stops on the axle first! you can also do the same for the other direction on the top of the box the same hole same place on the top! same proseedure you may have to turn the stops in a tad to acheive what you want!Second ,on an RD800 the ujoints can seem good but be stiff! check em out! remove the shaft from the box and the steady bearing and check everything for being free EVEN the steady bearing these can be seased and give you false feeling in the steering wheel!Replace em if your unsure of them!

Loose valve seats are noticible as you pull the shut down!Have some one pull the stop and listen near the air cleaner!in anycase they make one hell of a mess when they drop if it is a seat fine which one and pull that head!

He claims that they checked fuel preasure 60 psi or better !Never disclosed loaded or not!You would think it would exibit symtoms run rough and and throw multipul injection pump codes at least thats been my observation when fuel pumps go bad NOT ALWAYS but mostly! Also low compesion would show blu stinky fuel smoke! did your engine have this symtom?Just adding to the knolege base with this question! I have also seen them heads come in with valves swaped!

Rider This here Maybe worth looking into !Althou I highly suspect it would be a neglagable change.And you would notice some fuel smoke on startup. these guys change stuff without notice and somtimes neglect to put the info in the crate with the Parts / engines

Agreed! 24-28 28 is still safe! Like I told Trent if your pulling hard and you got just a smidge of black gray smoke your doing good at 28. Before you do anything remove the 3/8 line that goes to the smoke control at the manifold!Suck on that line If it will not hold vacuam it will not hold preasure It needs replacing! replace it if its leaking before making any adjustments to the fuel plate

14V is fine! (Qual-com installed) WHAT IS THIS? Doest it interface with the eecu OR vecu? If so Remove it temperarly! (somthing to try) When they checked torque limit did they do it running on the dyno in hi and low? Or just sitting in the shop static? I have had the wiring to the torque limit switch rub and short (cuts the power in half) the best way to eliminate this is to find and pull the wires that monitor that circit at the VECU This way It will always be off FOR SURE! Were the fuel threseholds checked? I do simpthize Ive had to fight these things before !only been stumped a few times this is just another to add to my list! I don't see the magic bullet here either !they did everything possible in my mind, ecu swap from a good known unit should have done the trick if the ecu was at fault! having said that! (I know you said ALL working computers) from a good known unit were installed ) but did they swap out the VECU as well? Maybe the EECU is seeing somthing it doesent like there?Somtimes the simplest things can be overlooked. The eecu is getting a message from somthing in the vecu to tell it to hold out on ya!Somthing it dosent see as a problem but A normal operation hold out! The only ones I can think of were the torque limilt and road speed functions! Sorry Man Im stumped AS well ! Let Us know if you get it ! I'll let you know if I can think of anything else!

Rider No fault codes correct? What was your origanal failer???? Please list the parts changed! Please list the parts CONFIRMED correct! You definitly have a fuel delivery problem by all your descriptions. Were all the same injectors and eups reused ? If the eups were changed were the new CAL codes installed? Your engine should make 30 -35 psi boost !!! What was it before / what is it now?IS the Boost sensor Correct? is the fuel preasure good?If we can't come up with a solution by chating here and If you are near a dealer and they havent already tried,have them try a reflash and down load?

Rider Heres sone stuff to have em check! FIRST Have em look in diagnostics go to switch status look for torque limit see if the switch says on or off!!! Needs to be off! You need to see 60 psi fuel preasure there abouts full load ! (you won't know this one unless you now the parts guy real well you bought the engine from.) WHAT cam key is in the engine You need a white off set cam key installed in that engine to run right! If its wrong (It will be down to 25 psi boost and have no pull range) Sounds like your exsactly half of what you should be so I would suspect the torque limit!!!

Skip! Yup you can do that! Check the pan plug first thou much quicker!Also if you have a dynatard it can be a worn or bent push tube! on the exhast!

Trent i just don't rememeber, they did away with the RS/RL (STRAIGHT FRAME) shortly after the 350 was introduced!maybe a 4 year run after the 350.Definatly early 80's The RD lived on for quite a while beyound this,

I have seen this done on an r700 when a e9 was installed the hood had to be modified to except the cooler.

I had a 237 make a tick when it was leaking a small amount of compression out of the head gasket. I didnt know it was a compression leak untill the gasket went and the noise was gone after i put new head gaskets and fire rings on it sum old farmer tricks! IF you suspect the above , it usually happens between the heads !To find or confirm it get a gallon of water or a garden hose and dump or spray it between the heads the noise will disapear momentarly if it does youv'e found your problem! If the cam is suspected check the drain plug for shiny slabs of metal Note this problem will (USUALLY) be acompanied by a poping noise in the air cleaner!

Both levers !THE STOP LEVER wether air or cable poperated has to be fully on! And the throtle needs to go fully on to acheive comlplete power!Once youve run this abit you may want to juice it sum!The straight fuel pump didn't put out as good as the v pump! you can remove the (AFC)smoke limit divice at the top rear of the pump and slide the fuel plate forward 30 or so thou to get some more jam from it! You'll find the info to do this on this site> http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf 22 psi Is MAYBE 400 hp on a v8 what is the rating on the VALVE cover! NOTE anything more than 28 psi boost your running the risk of pounding out your wristpin bushings! USE THE POWER WISELY.

Last night I found the link to the Eaton Clutch video. I forgot who posted it I beleive that be me!The thing the video touches on but dosent ephisize is the linkage adjustment!Get that clutch arm set properly and the rest is a cake walk!If you are using an easy pedal clutch and the linkage is not set correctly and you shoot for their measurments it will slip! Them dam air throtles are a pain!You can tweak the peasure at the foot valve a bit but for the most part you need to mess with the linkage till you get it to hit the stop fully!!this is and rd 800 right?I would get or make a cable setup simular to the superliner set up it will make your life much simpler!SEE if Barry can set you up with at least a cable and devize your own pedal. That v8 should pull like a train too IF you got full throtle and the stop is going FULL ON!Have somone push on the throtle and confirm at the pump that the lever is going full on! on both levers!The other posibility is the smoke limit diphram MAY have a hole in it!A good running V8 will make 24 to 28 psi boost and stay under 1000 on the pyro!A HOT V8 will make 28 to 32 psi boost and stay in the same heat area!

HK Im not so sure he can do that with a fuller trans!It is a can do with any mack trans thou. Regarding the rattle when the clutch is disengaged, are you sure it's not just the normal rattle of the centerplate when there is no tension on it? And you are correct ! This may be a normal clatter

Proper run in as follows!Acorrding to me and it works for EVERY ENGINE for the most part, Start the engine run a 1000 rpms till tempature starts to rise ,run under moderate load till operating temp is reached! PUT A BIG LOAD ON ITS BACK AND PRETEND that you just stole a million bucks from the bank and the cops are after you and you don't want to be thrown in the slammer.In the morning follow the previous writers instructions on head torqing back off 1\4 tighten to 225 Book says 210-20 I think?I always went a little tighter worked for me. :)And while your at it re tighten (ALL) the hose clamps the ones on the back in front of the turbo ALWAYS leak after a runnin and the water pump bypass as well! The worst possible thing you can do to a high HP engine is not work it! 30 minutes idling is too long in my opinion ,the first hour or two of running is the MOST important hours of the engines life.IF you can get a good hard run in, in the first hour of a rebuild you got it made.The engine will not use oil and will serve you well glad you found the problem and it was simple! The above breakin opinion is based on true life experiance NOT FROM SOME ONE FLYING A DESK! When the v8 first apeared WE SOLD lots Here ,we had oil burners and some not !After some time We observed the engines that were oil burners were trucks that had made the trip from the factory to our lot 3500 miles awayEMTY !The trucks that were piggy backed from the factory were fine( no hours )the driven truck with dogs on its back were fine, BUT if the truck was BOBTAILED from there to here is where problems were encountered! Oil burners were inadvertantly created by doing this! No one really clued in to this for quite a few years.After working with the engine for a number of years you could see the pattern un fold and it really all makes sense.Our company from that point on tried to be sure that v8's were piggybacked and not driven emty that solved alot of problems! Hence the method of breakin I use and will swear by EVERYTIME!