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Yup in the 80s the kt was offered in the superliner It put the front axle up to almost over weight empty on a road tractor.

If it were mine and I used it as much as you do I would be doing the same thing As 68 has stated liners are the likly culpret! run it for a bit more and drain off the goo you have put in the rad flush it and restore it to proper coolant and get on with life!Ive been tempted to try this stuff http://www.rxauto.com/index.htm if it leaks agian phone these guys and give it a try.they garrenty it or your money back.

easy same gasket as long as the e6 is a 4 valve engine

With the cab up and standing on the pass RH side look behind the fuel pump if you see a bolt on plate that the turbo drain tube goes to its an E6 If the tube bolts directly to the block with 2 bolts its E7.

Check the yoke bolt for tightness

Nope I would not recomend that on any of the new engines These new engines have enough problems with out poeple tring wives tales on them! you don't know what you'll do to the dpf, Great big crap shoot to many things to be upset by tring an experiment! Injectors are only one part of the system. to much else going on here! Don't do it.

after checking the odvious ! Try unpluging the green sensor on the condensor coil and jumping the plug at that point if that releases the fan your problem is that switch a very comon failure!Same at the ater rail switch jump it out see what happens!

Just a side note on the turbo change ,May have been an OK and justifide preventive measure in light of what has happened. BUT would not have been the cause of preasure loss in this case.

Its not totaly unheard of for the pump drive to fail, I doubt the crank is bad unless you or he ran it longer than stated ,with out pulling caps down he won't know, the cranks are heat treated and have a blue tinge anyway.A turbo failure will not make the oil preasure go away . till all the oil in the pan is in the muffler! The puter turbo codes would not be related in to this Failer . The engine would or should have shut down on low oil preasure that would have and should have happend to you at least once on the way to his shop ( Asuming you drove it there).DID IT!??? If so I doubt the crank is bad yet! Just another opinion take the truck out of his shop to a dealer that knows what their doing!The key here is the Unnessary turbo change with out due cause .He should have pulled the sensor and checked the system with a real gauge before doing ANYTHING else, to confirm the problem, Not depend on a computer code for info. Finding the root of the problem first ,when a pump drive fails, usually two things happen no oil preasure and compressor won't pump. Just an opinion

Pull the plug apart at the fuel pump and inspect it these have been known to cause greif!If you have available parts and tools replace the pins and sockets on that plug!

Try it doubt you'll hurt anything.

Chances are you have leaky liners! but I ran across this stuff might pay to give these guys a call, http://www.rxauto.com/index.htm money back garrenty Might be worth a try!As for the screen try it but I dout it will help and also think on this antifreeze plays hell on bearings! PS if you do use this stuff . post if it works or not!

the easy way is to install the clutch on the clutch shaft and install the works into the truck If you have a 15 inch clutch that is! You odviously can't with the 14 inch!

A bottle jack under the engine bell housing!

I agree now everything can be brand neutral and when assimilating other companys they can just chuck em in the trucks barrel melt em down and remold em into a Volvo! Makes things easier. Same with the equipment end NAE.

To check that out simply flip the power divider lock out swithc if the noise goes away the problem is there!

nope just check em fo tight.

Is the turbo wastgated ?What kind of pyro numbers do you see loaded!

Rev the engine up to max rpm no load it should reach 2100 rpm if it dosent the linkage should be checked the throtle lever on the pump is likly not going full stroke at the pump. .

Brad Did you find the tc marks? If those are there so are are the valve set marks!Someone set the valves on it some time they have to be there.Anyway pull the lids look for valve overlap on #6 that will give you a rough idea where to look for marks No# 1 valves will be closed if valves are rocking on six!You can pretty much do a valve set on valve over lap if your stuck.

The valve set marks are marked on the fly wheel remove the cover on the very bottom of the flywheel housing rotate the engine till you see set valves 1-6 5-2 3-4 dead center in the window set in firing order 153624 yokes set with valves push down on the yoke turn the scre till it contacts the one flat beyond touching. 16 inlet 24 ehast 15 on the jake! Im also wondering if anyone can tell me why the expansion plug on the front side of the rocker arm shaft on both heads fell out could this be a factor in low oil pressure 14 at idle 50 Likley the jake won,t work either.

12v to em will make em click you should be able to hear them!

Look on the front of the diff just off to the lower passanger side of the input housing there is a flat spot top right hand corner you'll find the ratio. Your looking for nos like 3.87 / 4.17 / 4.42 / 4.64

good call Bad Dog! I totally agree with fhese coments and highly recomend checking them first before doing anything , the adjustment you will b making is the fuel delivery adjustment. pictures of the front of the pump would be in order here to see if the puff limit is still operating!

OK behind that 4 bolt tin cover you will find a jam nut 3/8 with and allen screw thru the center( I BEleive )If I remember corectly loosen the screws jam nut and turn the the screw out one half turn and lock the jam nut And give it a try for power Its been years since I been inside that style governer but, If that dont doit or reduces the power turn it back the other way 1 turn ! once you find which direction does the trick tweek as desired don't go to hay wire with the turns youll kill the thing!