turckster

The ball end goes in first (towards front of truck).

If you're serious about doing your own repairs then I would suggest getting an engine manual. That way you have the service procedures for repairs with all the fits and limits, torque specs and all sorts of other goodies--like tools required for each job. The camshaft/cam gear combo weighs about 90 lbs, There is a special tool to help cam removal(making it a one person job). It can be done without the tool but its a pain in the tush. You'll need to support the lifters for removal/install of the cam. Press the gear off, Heat the gear up in an oven to 200 deg, pop it onto the cam in one motion. If you fail to install the gear all the way then you have to press it off and start again. Not sure on this engine but some cam keys were offset, must be in same position when installed onto new cam. Depending on which lifter failed, I would make sure the h ring for that cyl. is same height as all others and in proper position, All eup roller guide pins should be inspected. If the engine has jake brakes, make sure all exhaust actuator pins are within spec. Inspect all valve retainers to be sure the roller retainer(s) have not failed. If the roller retainer is on top of the spring then this is the old style They were bad about failing, sending small pieces of metal down into the lifters causing them to lock up--popping out the h-ring.

Copied from Mack engine manual. Since the front mount is in good shape, I would make sure the rear mounts are in good shape--no loose bolts on the transmission mounts, the frame mount bolts ok, mount rubbers in good shape. No EUP faults? Engine faults that constantly reoccur? PROBABLE CAUSE REMEDY 1. Loose vibration damper hub nut/bolt. 1. Check condition of mounting. Make necessary corrections and retorque. 2. Defective/damaged vibration damper. 2. Replace damaged/defective parts. 3. Fan blade not in balance. 3. Loosen/remove fan belts and operate engine for a short time at the speed that the vibration was present. If vibration disappears, replace fan assembly. 4. Engine supports are loose, worn or defective. 4. Tighten all mounting bolts. Install new components as required. 5. Misfiring or running tough. 5. Check items listed for "Engine Misfiring."

When this happened was the balancer hit in any way? Inside of that balancer is an inertia ring surrounded by oil. The ring is a tight tolerance to the outer section so any type of damage could prevent free movement of the inertia ring. The inertia ring counter acts any frequencies created by the engine. I'm not sure but I think the front balancers for higher h.p. engines are different than other engines, could possibly be the incorrect one as well.

With engine vibrations the first thing I do is remove the belts, inspect the front balancer for oil or damage. If everything looks ok I'll unbolt the clutch pressure plate and see if the vibration disappears. Be sure to mark the position of the clutch pressure plate to flywheel. If the vibration disappears try bolting the clutch back up 180 degrees from the original position. If unbolting the clutch does not help then there could be an internal issue with the engine. The higher lead/contamination from the oil sample could be from the engine vibration. Get that figured out and the oil samples may start looking normal. To be clear, did the engine vibration start when the reman engine was installed or when the front mount broke? If the front balancer was hit in any way, shape or form I would not trust it. For the driveline vibration, with an air ride suspension make sure the ride height is at spec. Driveline angles that are off will cause some serious problems like taking out a transmission synchronizer. If not an air ride system make sure the correct torque arms are installed, slip yokes on drivelines are in phase. With carrier bearings, we have had fewer problems with the "vented" than the solid type. The solid type seemed to have more vibration issues. Good luck

Does this issue happen in both low and high ranges-the 4th/8th gear is the only forward gear you have? If so then what theakerstwo posted is most likely the issue. If not, that all high range gears work just fine then the sychronizer could be the issue. If the sychronizer is the issue it can be repaired in chassis. I don't think its cheap though, I think just a sychro kit scares the heck out of $1,000, then you have to possibly replace the range piston/cyl. assly, low or high range gear/hub, range fork..... after all is said and done it could get quite expensive. If the front drive gear is toast then an exchange is the way I would go. After you figure gear replacement on main and countershaft gears plus other parts and labor you are equal to or surpass the cost of an exchange. Usually this type of failure is catastrophic. As far as the Eaton transmission, hopefully there are no issues with it, you'll have to have the correct bellhousing for a mack plus correct mount brackets. Correct shifter and the driveline lengthened or shortened plus a few other things I'm sure. I don't know how different the gear ratios are between the two.

Does it have this problem in low range only? Is there a grind while range shifting from low to high? High to low? If yes to any of these I would suspect the sychronizer. If it grinds in both low and high range in all respective gears then I would assume there is an issue in the front section of the transmission.

Here is a PDF file for 2009 operators handbook for GU model truck. The fuse chart starts on page 285. This handbook has tons of good info. TS92009.pdf

V-Mac 1&2 have an inline injection pump on the right side of the engine. V-Mac3 has 6 electronic unit pumps (EUP) on the right side instead of an inline pump. Code 3-1 on V-Mac3 is the exhaust temp sensor(behind turbo in exh. pipe). Code 8-3 is EUP #3. Really need the FMI for each fault/code to determine the diagnostic path. For example- for the 8-3 fault, if the FMI is 8 (abnormal) then most likely the problem is an internal fault with the EUP. Only way to get the FMI is with some type of code reader(v-mac software, pro-link or other similar device) BTW, if you end up replacing the EUP, you have to replace the injection line as well. Any time an injection line is removed on ai/ac engines (egr type engines) the injection line has to be replaced. The correct torque is critical on these lines to prevent leaks/damage. Nut at the head is 30 lb/ft and nut at the EUP is 25 lb/ft. If you don't have the correct tools for this then let a dealer perform this.

Correct, the pump is mounted on the right side of the engine. The 4 screws are T27 hex . There are 2 possible problems, either the drive gear is spinning on the shaft or the pump gear is spinning on the splined shaft.

Capacity is approx 30 pints (T2070A long compound) Oil: Recommended SAE Grade Gear Oil For All Temperature Operations: T2070A Mack® GO-J Specification 90, 140, 80W-90, 80W-140, 85W-140 for Mineral Base Mack® GO-J Plus* Specification 75W-90, 75W-140, 80W-140 for Synthetic base *GO-J Plus is required for Mack geared component extended service drain intervals. 80w-90 Mineral is most common

First thing that pops in my head is the fuel transfer pump. Funny thing about those pumps is the gear will spin on the shaft and you loose fuel pressure. Next thing you know the gear catches and you have good fuel psi again and the engine runs great. If I suspect the transfer pump and fuel pressure looks ok, I'll pop off the 4 cover screws and check the condition of the pump gears. If you can turn the drive gear then you have a problem. Usual signs of a failing transfer pump is what you described, engine miss or stumble and white smoke.

Dash light switch? Is there voltage to it? From there it goes to dimmer switch. No voltage to dash switch then your issue is from the switch to the fuse panel. If yes for voltage to and out of switch and no to dimmer the issue is between the two. Not sure how the circuit branches out after the dimmer switch without a diagram.

You can remove the cap without fear of doing any harm. The top right countershaft will be supported by other gears. I do not remember ever seeing dowels on rear covers but its been a while since I've had one off. There are shims and an o-ring under the cover, the cap goes on in one position only. I would recommend replacing the o-ring, bolt torque is 40-50 lb-ft (the fastener has epoxy-coated threads, it can be reused a maximum of five times).

Is there smoke when the engine is cutting out, like white smoke? Could be a broken spring in the fuel return check valve. Fuel pressure should be 28-44 psi

I didn't realize there were different temp t-stats available since all I've ever installed were 180 deg (dealer OEM) For a while there were two temp t-stats for the duel t-stat systems(180/185 deg), but now all we get from parts is 180 deg t-stats. Personally I would stick with the 180 deg t-stat.

Don't feel bad, at least you found the problem without spending money. A customer had a wrecker deliver his truck to us because he could not start the engine. Ended up it was missing a fuse. A driver in another truck jumped into this one to pull a fuse because his radio didn't work. $450 to find out it was missing a fuse. Ouch!

More than likely its a relay clicking on/off. If it were a breaker then you would loose an electrical circuit of some sort, possibly get a fault. For a MR it is normal for "clicking" noises coming from under the center section.

With a diagnostic computer hooked up (PTT 2), the dealer should be able to run a test to see if the fan is requested on and what is requesting it. If nothing is requesting fan engagement then I would focus on the engine harness-make sure the fan harness is pinned correctly. Make sure one of the harness pins have not backed off inside the connector, wire inside the loom have not rubbed together and so on. What type of fan do you have? Air, viscous electronic? With the air fan I would make sure there is air to the fan and solenoid. With the Borg/Warner electronic viscous fan if there is a loss of voltage the fan will stay engaged. If the dealer can not figure out why the fan will not disengage then they should get Mack technical support involved. Good luck

Most Mack day cabs take 3 lbs refrigerant and sleeper cabs take 3.5 lbs. The binary switch should have cut out the compressor way before that pressure was reached on the high side. With a good operating system, the high side should be around 250-275 psi and low side below 30 psi.

Drain the oil and remove the 8 hole pto cover, take a look up inside the transmission. Use a pry bar and try to move gears and counter shafts around. If the main shaft has excessive play near the front-where 4/5th gears are at, it could be that the spigot bearing has come apart. With the front 8 hole pto cover off then you will have a chance to look around. The tranny model and serial/part numbers are located above and slightly behind the front 8 hole pto cover, stamped into the case.

Most of the time I hear this its usually a blown exh. manifold gasket. Usual suspect is #1 port. You can see the soot trail at the rear side of the port. Most manifold slip joints leak as well, you could try to replace the seals but most slip joints are blown out or have excessive etching. There is a new updated manifold that has bellows between the sections, has thicker flanges. Its not too expensive either, most certainly cheaper to replace than to try and drill and helicoil, never liked doing that to manifolds anyway. Not knocking it, just not my cup of tea. If this is the case and you want to repair yourself, know the correct torque procedures and NEVER reuse exhaust fasteners. Use never-seize on all threads.

A blink code 4-3, for v-mac 1 or 2, is mph sensor. The fault is an abnormal frequency or pulse width which means the sensor is out of adjustment. To adjust the MPH sensor, turn sensor in by hand until it contacts, back out one full turn. Torque the jam nut 15 ft/lbs. It might be best, though, to remove the sensor and inspect the tip for damage. If all looks ok then no harm done.

Missing tip washer or improperly torqued injector is the first thing that comes to mind. Blowing compression past the injector into the fuel return.

The Wabco air compressors don't have "unloaders" like other compressors. Everything is contained within the head assembly. If there are any issues with building air and it is not passing oil then replacing the head is an option rather then the whole air compressor.