Maxville Truck

I don't know for sure... however I do know that their has been some updated shift cylinder "kits" for those transmissions, If you give your Vin to your local Mack dealer they should be able to determine if your cylinder could be upgraded, That back cover is pretty easy to remove and put back on.. and pretty easy to repair. just orings inside. we had one get sticky pulled it off took it apart it had rust , I guess from system moisture.. the rust had accumulated, and tore the orings up, I cleaned it up nice, installed new orings and a little grease, Problem solved.

Is this the long or short back box? If you have the long rear box then you have a plain "tin" cover on the rear box with the shift cylinder sticking out the rear top of the rear box.... parallel with the drive shaft. the short rear box has the shift cylinder built into the underside of the top cover. My guess is you have the long rear box with the neutral shift out air switch in the cab. for a multispeed rear PTO. what " may" be going on is it is hanging in the neutral position because of bad o rings or corrosion in the air shift cylinder.

Get a bunch of wet rags.... a helper and a good torch... Heat your stick shift until is hot enough to bend and bend it away back a little...... being ever so carefull not to melt shifter lines etc... I know I know.... playing with fire in a cab is a no no... save the lectures.... :wacko:

What model of truck are you dealing with.... I just did a conversion on a heavy axled DM886sx, Beautiful old flintstone hooded super heavy axled setup. We started with just pulling the hubs off. bearings and seals were totally different, I believe this truck has the 23,000lb front axle. I have a couple of 20,000lb or 18,000lb axles lying around so we pulled an axle in the shop and proceeded to start measuring.......... we ended up removing everything from the king pins out from the heavy axle and replacing it with the "lighter" axled "stuff" we had to retain the original steering lever and both cross steering levers. The king pins on the heavier axle were totally different, however the tapered hole where the king pin resides in the axle was the same. so the "lighter" set of king pins worked perfectly. If you have just a 18 or 20 front then all you should need is the hubs and drums (seals etc). If you end up needing to do what we did, your cheapest bet would be to buy a complete front axle to get your parts, around here that would run a bout $1000.00.

Nice looking Rig!! plan on playing in the mud with it .....?????

Here 's the finished product..... We built the front bumper for it also, It has a live pump driven off the crankshaft also.... I will be posting a video to youtube when I get a chance.

I think you would loose performance.. (just my opinion) you will not have as much volume of "boosted Air" available at your intake valves when they open, as you have with the front mounted air cooler. you spool up a little quicker but long running you will miss the air to air...

It may be a fuel water seperator but I think it is a fuel "heater" also a few of my MR's had those on and they had a loop of coolant from the engine that ran to them. both of the ones i had started leaking diesel fuel ended up that the were made of cast aluminum and the bracket that held them to the frame corroded them to the point of leaking...

Well, I built it... 1994 Mack CH with a 12,000 front and mack taper leaf suspension in rear. we were going to put the air behind the taper leaf, but the power divide lock ended up not giving any suspension travel under the trunion tree, so we had to move the tandem back and redrill all the holes. we then proceded to mount a mack air suspension ahead of the taper leaf with its own leveling valve. the truck had a push axle on it when we got it, so I used the existing air controls for the air axle, I hooked the leveling valve to the down line (regulated) of the push axle, (so we could limit how much pressure the axle would have when loaded, i figured the taper leaf suspension would settle under a heavy load, and i didn't want the air axle leveling valve over compensating and taking too much weight off of the tandems) I hooked the push axle's lift line to the dump line of the leveling valve and also to the front power divide (via a check valve) only, this way if they want (for lord knows what?) they can steer on the back tandem but not have the front drive spin. We also have the option of lock all 3 axles with the front 2 having power divides.. the truck has an apron chain silage unloading box built in Ringle, WI, 24 feet long. We run a dry valve hydraulic pump off the front crankshaft. The truck is not fully completed, but is operational.... I will be posting pictures as soon as we are completed with it.. (I'm taking a much needed vacation this week in Vegas,) and they wanted to use it on "2nd" crop hay... If this works good we will be building a second one like it this fall.. :banana: :SMOKIE-LFT:

I've had several MR's that have had air disc brakes both on camelback and ridewell.... i belive they were meritor setups, as a matter of fact I just threw away a set of hubs with the disc on them. very good stopping power but prone to wear out fast, and very expensive to replace.... I could do a complete set of drums, shoes, and seals for 4 wheels for the less than the cost of 1 complete air disc wheel. have to change the hub to change them over though.....I still have a 18000 front with the disc on them....

I used an alternator mounted tach once on a pulling tractor, it used a big stainless steel clamp to attatch an inductive pick up to the outside of the alternator.... it was a waste of money!!!!! a distributor "triggered one would be far better!!

I'm going to go out a limb here......... DMM 6x6, DM , and MR cab over......superliner of course, oh yeah a nice R model....80's macks!!

You better pass it on on to your customers 105% if not you will be out of bussiness....... pretty soon everyone will be unable to afford anything, because of shipping costs.. the public has to feel the punch of these fuel prices in more than just their cars...that is where the strength in numbers "thing" will get some action going, but we have to ask ourselves how will it come down? we are in a global economy competing world wide for energy.... and as long as we continue to have a minority bunch of environmentalist's $^%$^er $^&%er's stopping us from doing what we can to produce energy whether it be renewable, drilled, distilled, gasified, nuclear, cracked or whatever. we are all headed for "interesting times"!! whew where's my dog gone prozac!!!!!

Is your radiator clean? I have several mr's with viscous clutches, they were all low speed engines that I cranked the rpms up on..... once I did that i could not keep belts on them untill I changed the water pump pulleys to the larger diameter.....when my radiator get dirty the fans will roar for a little bit then quit working.... what I suspect happens is that the air flow through the radiator stops and the fan draws cooler air from "lord knows where" and shuts the fans down... to answer your question "i have also been wondering if there is a air clutch fan drive for this combination. " yes from a ch of the same year the air clutch looks just like the viscous except it has an air hose that will need to be plumbed to a solenoid valve which will need to hooked to a thermostatic switch in the water manifold. I believe that the computer on the electronic engines control the solenoid.... but i'm not 100% sure. you will have to control yours with the thermostatic switch, perhaps from a cummins engine. try cleaning the radiator first though, if you haven't already especially between the air to air and radiator!!

Hey not trying to change the subject on you guys but........ speaking of vcads is their any way to change parameters (primairily pto rpm) on on a volvo ved7 1998 electonicly controlled pump.? I picked up a cab over wx volvo and have a customer who is having me modify and install a TMR mixer to feed his cows.. I have a snap on modis but all i can do with it is read the params not adjust them. ANy help would be apreciated!!

I'm not going to claim to know much, but I have a cousin whose husband is a trucker running an older mechanical 3406 cat with a propane setup, his claim is close to 1 mpg gain with propane..... not sure exactly how much propane is used but it varies according to boost pressure. Propane is supposed to speed up the flame front in the combustion chamber and burn more completely the diesel being injected... His claim is that the increased in mileage more than covers the cost of the propane..

Yes the switch is "air pressure" activated, I have several of these MR's Most of mine have 2 or more of the air switches located, on the foot valve (under the cab, have to jack cab over to get at them). Any chance that there is a leak on the switch itself? also check the wiring on the "switches" mine were wired parallel. I'm guessing that you may have an issue with your brake valve not sending enough "air signal" out to the switch, Making the assumtion that your supposed to have 2 air brake switches wired in paralell and one is not functioning, (holy crap now i'm rambling) listen for a leak by your foot when you hit the brakes. generally the switches will activate with very little pressure.

Hope this helps....... T2180 AND T2180B GEAR RATIOS AND SHIFT PATTERN Figure 1 -- T2180 and T2180B Shift Pattern Table 1 -- T2180 AND T2180B GEAR RATIOS Gear Position (Main Box) Splitter Range T2180 Ratios T2180B Ratios Lo Lo Lo 13.91 13.91 Lo Hi Lo 11.80 11.80 1 Lo Lo 8.78 8.78 1 Hi Lo 7.45 7.45 2 Lo Lo 6.28 6.28 2 Hi Lo 5.33 5.33 3 Lo Lo 4.52 4.52 3 Hi Lo 3.83 3.83 4 Lo Lo 3.22 3.22 4 Hi Lo 2.73 2.73 Range Shift 5 Lo Hi 2.29 2.29 5 Hi Hi 1.94 1.94 6 Lo Hi 1.64 1.64 6 Hi Hi 1.39 1.39 7 Lo Hi 1.18 1.18 7 Hi Hi 1.00 1.00 8 Lo Hi 0.84 0.84 8 Hi Hi 0.71 0.71 R Lo Lo 28.98 12.88 R Hi Lo 24.58 10.92 R Lo Hi 7.56 3.36 R Hi Hi 6.41 2.85 © Copyright 2002 Mack Trucks, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of Use

Looking at your "heater" post You do have a "puff limiter" with an ambac fuel pump, standing on the passenger side of the motor look at your injection pump.... look where the injection lines connecto to the injection pump the go forward about 4 or 5 inches and down about 2 you will see a cylinder attatched horizontally to the front of the injection pump with a hose coming off of it. that hose reaches around the front of the motor and attatches to the "puff limiter valve on the intake manifold near the heater core "water shut off valve" their is or should be 2 hose connected to that "puff limiter" valve the other one is the 1/4 inch air supply line you most likely are talking about..

Wedge brakes are a very good braking system if properly installed and maintained, There bad reputation is that they are more complicated than conventional s cam setups, and are more prone to the adjusters freezing up and making them inoperable. Here is a link for a service manual that will explain in detail their operation, maintenance, and repair... Good Luck!! http://www.axletech.com/service_manuals/pd...dard/MM0153.pdf

the hose coming off your water manifold on top of the engine with the "water valve" is the pressure side of the heater core. follow that hose because it too should have a tee connected to it to feed the fuel preheater. With the engine running what does your water temp get up to after the engine warms up? If your temp is anything under 180 your thermostat is stuck open, start there.... Next after warm up feel the heater hoses and determine if they are getting warm. both at the fuel pre heater and at the heater core connections. if the fuel pre heater hose get warm and not the heater core then one of 2 things will be wrong... the heater control valve is stuck shut (cab temp control) cable unhooked or siezed. or your heater core is plugged. The antifreeze will travel in that circuit to the path of least resistance. if you determine that your heater core is not getting any antifreeze flow, after cleaning the core, and or getting the control valve opened, I would give the fuel preheater it own supply path of coolant, find another pipe plug in that water manifold and feed it with that...

Yes that would be it, it looks to me that if just put 2 screws in it and use that as your switching point to the light you'll have it. If you dig around your frame near that point you may find the 2 wires "dangling" that belong to that switch.

If I had to guess I would say you have a fuller transmission 9,13, or 18 speed and that would be the "slave Valve", when you shift your "flipper" for a range change you send an air signal to that slave valve then it shifts the rear box from low to high or vice versa. It has a mechanical interlock "pin" that allows you to preselect your range before shifting out of gear, then when you move the stick into neutral it makes the range shift. Just a guess though....

I have to say that I have a "kenworthless" that had an 8 bag suspension.... I switched out the 8 bag for a 3 spring t-ride with full lockers on thinking it would make the truck nearly unstopable..... boy I wish now that I had stuck a camelback under it. The truck getes stuck worse than any of my other trucks at this point.. I can't figure out why either. the t ride has great travel.. but the camels still kick it's a^& in the fields... and they all have normal auto powerdivide. Anybody else have experience side by side t-ride vs camels?

WHat's a flintstone?