Freightrain

Most truck shops have pieces to make speedo cables, with any ends you need. They have the "special" die that makes the end of cable square to fit speedo head. The drive end, like John mentioned might need a "adaptor" to make the speedo read correct. It depends on what's all been changed on the truck(as for rear gear ratios). I got my reducer off Ebay for like $12. Guy sells them on there all the time. You won't know how far off til you get it working and see what the deal is. You won't need the reducer at first, the cable should thread right on to tranny. The keyed adapter(that John mentions) should be available at truck shop.

Sharp looking truck for sure. Plain, simple, classic lines.

Most all I have seen have had 2 square tanks, or round tanks. The main tank is the drivers side(fuel pump pick up is in it), so the passenger side is just added capacity and can be removed if you want. It would really cut down on the travel distance! Most B's that I have seen had the std battery box on each side behind the cab. My truck has both on pass. side only cause they hung a side box on the drivers side for tools(it was a towing company truck).

I been to a couple facilities that have multi-purpose, multi-wheel vehicles to either move trailer or rail cars. Not sure the manufacturers name but they had rail wheels and pneumatic tires, usually all wheel drive.

Big end=crank end/rod bearing end small end=pin bushing for piston If you had the small ends rebuilt.......you had new bushings installed and sized. If you had the big end done...they ground the cap and resized it. That is one way us gearheads talk about rod ends. Different strokes for different folks.

I switched my B over to tubeless. RIm was $50(used) and $250 for Yokohama Radial tire. So for $300 each you can convert....not bad for a single axle, but a tandem....can get a bit pricey. Check around and see what you an find locally used? Leave the tube type on it? Not really a need to change over...it's basically preference.

I think it makes BAD drivers even worse!! Giving them a false sense of security.....since it "wasn't beeping, then I'm clear to go!" Ya, right! Buddy has it on his new F150(std equipment now) and when he has his car trailer hooked up...it beeps constantly when he backs up. What an annoying POS!!! I think you can disarm it, but he hasn't figured that one out yet. I think GOAL is a better option.....but for idiot drivers...there's nothing you can do for them anyway.

.............drool.......................................

I was able to pull near 10 mpg out of my B while bobtailing around town/road. Pulling my trailer 14K, it gets 8-9 mpg. Since I bumped the screw a bit I think it's a little down from that, need to check. Still ain't bad for an original 45 yr old diesel!

Seen on another diesel site. That funky afterburner on a new Pete. Looked like a super sized muffler with a torpedo burner built in? Something like a $5000 muffler! OUCH.

That's the problem with some parts guys. Got to have a #!! I wanted to convert, the guy walked over to a shelf and said "This will fit". Yup, sure did! No problems.

A lot of states you can get a CDL when 18...but can't go outta state til 21. If you state that you will not be using it commercially I'm sure you can get cheaper rates. The age thing might still hang you up though.

A test light in series with neg or pos cable will tell if you found the draw. Leave light hooked up and go around unhook stuff til the light goes out. Presto-chango the problem will be solved.

Just need the REST of my truck to look that good! LOL!!

I have a similar "gizmo" like that on my B. It's plumbed off the quick release valve(I think?) I need to take another look. Mine doesn't have a barb on it though. Just a single line coming to it. I've always wondered what it was for. Don't think there was any part no's on it either.

Tapered will fall out pretty easy...been there! Took longer to get the tools out then knock the pins out of my B. Straight pins............well, if they are like my Ford trucks....get ready to work a few days!

I found a B87 with oil field bed on it in WV last week. Sitting in a truck repair joint all fenced in. Pretty sad looking piece, but usable. Place was locked up tight, and can't find phone number using internet. Can't find address either(pretty lame huh?). It was at Rt 21 and Rt 77 in WV, right behind fuel stop on NE side of highway.

Yup, I leave my main in gear and it helps move the grease/paste around enough to make it easier to shift LOL!!

Good looking project. I remember it way back....

I think mine is way beyond worn out? LOL!! Running down the road it's not bad, but let it pull against it down a long grade and it sounds pretty nasty...clunk'n and bang'n and rattl'n. Lucas kinda took up some of the slack...but it still rattles pretty bad after a long road trip(idle in neutral). It doesn't pop out of gears(except 2nd on coast side) but don't use it often enough to worry about it. Like to replace it...but just haven't got my hands on the right one yet.

GREAT job!!! Green...or RED with envy!!!

I put some Lucas in my triplex. In hopes that it might quiet it down? Been in there 4 yrs now. 1/2 and 1/2 with some gear lube. I think it helped some...it really used to rattle hard after a long drive. Does make it a bit stiff on winter days...not that it happens very often.

I put all new flex lines on my truck from the get go. Most looked pretty old and I didn't want the same demise somewhere on a dark road! I did miss an oil line and it blew on the way to track one day. Lordy what a mess that was....all down the sides of the truck and trailer..>YUK! Borrowed some line from track owner to patch it up and then put new on it when I got home. I've already put a separate fuel/water separator on truck to help out(screw on type). I've always wondered about my inj pump also. Everything looks pretty original, including all the steel lines and I've wondered about doing a PM on it and just get it all redone to eliminate chances? But it runs so well, I hate to screw with it.

A triplex(single overdrive) and 4.62 gears. With 22" rubber it runs about ~65 mph down hill/off a cliff on the govenor!! LOL!!!

I'd place a guess around 3/4" slack in the middle of belt? Something like that. I replaced mine and snugged it up, just like on a car. Not too tight, not too loose. Don't want to wipe out water pump bearings. I don't think motor can rev quick enough to actually slip the belt? I've never had any issues.