Freightrain

New information online says depth is 2.937. Not 2.797 like in my manual. So the .04 we took off is about right since it is currently 2.975. I'll take the .04 off the top and it will be back around 2.935.

Ok, was grinding on my flywheel and after getting the surface flattened I measured height and it is almost .200 deeper then stock spec of 2.797. We didn't take but .050 off so apparently someone ground it way down and didn't take the upper surface down. I bet this clutch slipped like hell from the last rebuild. The book says don't take more then .070. Well it will be .200 down. I know it won't make any difference in my set up and can't see it having any issues with function. Anybody have thoughts?

Yup pan gasket was folded up. I have it under some "weight" on roof of wagon to flatten it out. The other day I widdled out a crank spacer "tool" for front cover install. Found a piece of unused tool steel with close dimensions and a hole in it already so I finished it up and have it ready. I'll get cover back tomorrow when I go into the shop and grind the flywheel and bring it home also. Baby steps. I am trying to figure a day to get liners dropped in. Since that is in a holding pattern, I figured I would work on getting column out of the truck in preparation for power steering install. Lucky the wheel has been off a few times so I have a good work around for getting it to pop off easily. Then work through 60 yrs of grime to get bolts out and trailer control/air lines off the column. Went "painless". Now to wait on Kevin to make a trip down to do some horse trading.

I remember buying a Felpro kit when I did the 237 heads. Not sure it came with everything either? Only needed head gaskets and miscellaneous paper gaskets for intake/water manifold, etc. No seals needed.

Out here poking around and realize this worthless F'n gasket kit doesn't have side cover gaskets either??? WTF. Don't they expect you to actually want to regasket every leaky part? Ugh, just don't get it. My $3500 rebuild kit has grown to $5000 and still missing pieces. 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦

Old seal is 446 GC 235 B. Doh!!!!! I surely hope not in my lifetime!

Since I didn't have a VIN, they dug out an R model parts book and looked it up and crossed it to the new number. I question it myself. I told him I had the wear seal design and this is what I got. The seal has the nylon installation ring in it. Right or wrong? Seal #. VO 20705740 Ring # VO 25500940 Mean anything to anyone?

Cha Ching...... Another $300. Ugh. Front and rear seal with wear sleeve.

My local engine shop uses liquid nitrogen for sleeves and valve seat installation.

My plan. I have a local supplier we used to get it for work years ago on a regular basis. I was in there this past summer to pickup some dry ice for a special project at work. The son(about my age) took over for his Father some time in the past. He remembers me after all this time. They were a Coke syrup supplier and you back then you could get free glass of pop while waiting.

Kit doesn't have front seal either. 🤦 WTF good is a "kit" if it leaves out all the important parts??

Just read the instructions that came with liners. Protrusion is .002-.009 not the .0035-.0075 in the Mack manual. Guess the .010 I have is close enough.

Crank does have a wear ring installed.

The mains are all rolled in. I only pulled them to 50# currently just to seat them. I need to borrow a friends big boy torque wrench as mine only goes to 150#. I might as well wait until the rods are in and I can torque it all up then. Cranks spins effortlessly with just a finger on a rod journal. Nice. I have rear seal plate washed up and ready for new seal. Oh, ya, I asked if it came with the kit. Ya, it was " supposed to" .....but it doesn't. 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦. Just another $50 probably. Christ how worthless it is today dealing with very unknowledgeable people just starting out because all the older folks retired and left a HUGE gap of information. Next big hurdle: To get the bores cleaned up one last time, check liners and wash them to get ready for installation. The Mack books says they should slip in 1/2-2/3 way and whack them the rest of the way. Yikes. No, not doing it that way.

I may be screwed up. Pull clutch would wear the rear side(pulling crank towards rear). The pilot bearing would wear front due to crank being pushed forward. Time to relax before I get too wacked out on my thinking.