Freightrain

Thanks for reminding me. I may just pick one up for that price. Looks like it may beep or show a preset number you want to reach? The multiplier allows you to pull 100# and exert 700#. The digital versions makes you pull the 700# yourself.

Oh, oops. I posted the removal of input in the 300 thread. Easy peasy.....

Won't reach far enough. Once I get the template and holes drilled it won't be such an ordeal just shoving it in the hole. If I had to hold it for a long time I would be in trouble. A bit of progress tonight after dinner with Karen. I got ambitious to see if I could get the input out of the transmission. Yup. Thanks all for the push to just try and knock it apart without any fancy tools. I watched a YouTube video of a guy doing it like mentioned. Few smacks with a hammer and it all popped apart. Worse part was getting snap ring off the front. Had to mangle it but a new one comes in the kit. Googled kits and found local Pete dealer has Eaton kit for $260. I will be getting that tomorrow after work. Pt 2468 has everything and more then I need. https://ohiopeterbilt.com/products/fuller-kit-clutch-install Question for the masses: The plastic 3/16" fuel return line. Mack part only? It is reinforced plastic but only slips on fittings, no ferrel or clamps. Mine is pretty rough and needs replaced. I did get the crank hub installed the other night and balancer is on. Just need bigger torque wrench to get to 300ft/lb. Buddies only goes 250#.

Gravel drive so no crane out there either. Going to have to man handle it.

I have no room for a crane around my truck.... The stall is only as big as the truck.

No big updates this week. Some painting of parts, made a few new small #4 lines for oil and coolant. My reman steering box showed up yesterday. Jeez that thing is HEAVY!! Kevin All is sending me a care package with template to drill frame for new box. That along with Jake pieces for Tip turbine. I did install the starter last night so it is ready to spin up. A friend gave me 10 gal of Cat oil(says better then Rotella for zinc) that I will be using. I need to get twin filter housing off the 237 before I can prime it up. I did get the race car all back together also. Trans back in, oil changed and primed up. Ready for another season after I donate bit of welding on the back end. Seems all the wheel stands have been working on the ladder bar front cross member and I saw a couple small cracks at a couple joints. Not uncommon actually but it has been a few years since I needed to address it. I also have set up my friend to use his service truck to do my install. Told him by end of March I hope to be ready to set it in the chassis. I need to start collecting material to build a custom lift cradle.

Ya, well there's your problem. Giving a damn about your companies property. So few, so far apart. I deal with that shit at my shop. I get in any vehicle and it looks like a 3 yr lived in it for a week. I have spent more of my own money on car washes then any have spent on their own vehicle since they were born. It's call Pride.

It gets the bearing out of the way so you can wiggle the input shaft out. I've watched YouTube videos of that process. For the money I may just swap the bearing and input shaft just so they are new. Like you say, it's right here in front of me.

At this point $70 Amazon pricing isn't bad. Lord knows I have wasted more on less.

The gasket is new, so likely wouldn't hurt it getting it back apart. Now I know how to get oil halo out. The kits I found have a gasket included. Not bad $220 for everything. If it is the right kit. I looked up Eaton website and this is what it called for a 18912a. https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/rt-series-eaton-fuller-transmission-clutch-install-kit-for-2-input-replaces-part-k-2468/

Double clutching? WTH is that.... 😆 I'm either starting out or not near the clutch pedal.

The splines are worn a bit. It takes "special" tools to replace it or I would get one. Or I will have to buy more $400 tools for one time use...🤦

Ok, my transmission didn't have a clutch brake on it because it was from a stationary powerplant and didn't get shifted. Are the brakes pretty generic as for fitment? As long as it is for a 2" shaft it will be okay? I know my input has a groove for the brake to engage.

My 673 didn't have any hole to bleed with. I just filled it and ran it for the last 25 yrs. I almost put my 673 housing on but waited too long to research what those pipes were for. It's on there, I will leave it. I know there is a small #4 line coming off the block behind WP housing and goes to coolant filter. I wonder if that is the bleed for this? Why didn't 673 ever have a bleed?